[Kelly P]

@Anonymously – I do know bones can be risky, but you have to get calcium in the diet. Which is why actually most people grind the bones, meat, and other ingredients into mush. I would prefer that my puppy learn to chew.

Also I don’t really care for you bringing in articles in regards to dogs are not wolves. A dog is a carnivore not an omnivore. You can argue that the parasites living on the meat can threaten the animal’s life, but then you have the same issue with your raw Commercial food, unless they’re not telling the truth and it’s really cooked raw meat.

@Aimee – I understand your worry which is why I’ve spent time researching.
I have not talked to a Veterinary nutritionist because I don’t know of any. A Veterinary is not a nutritionist either so I can’t ask them. Here’s what I’ve learned though for puppy specific food. Puppies need more calcium than an adult dog. I’ve also read that it’s best to start raw feeding from an early age. Do you buy the same bag of food for an adult as for a puppy?

Wysong doesn’t seem to have a difference, I didn’t see any of the Dawrwin’s to have a choice between adult and puppy. Primal Raw Food doesn’t seem to have a difference either… Am I missing the Puppy formula? Nature’s Variety Raw doesn’t seem to have puppy specific formula. I know Blue Buffalo does but that’s merely grain free dog food. I’m not trying to be a jerk, but if the formula for the adult dog doesn’t change why is it an issue? I’ve also read that there’s a large margin of error when feeding raw, maybe like you suggested its only for adults because puppy nutrition is so important. Or maybe because no one expects to feed a puppy any raw food?

[LOREN L]

DRY DOG FOOD – ADD WATER
By Loren D. Lasher

For the past 5 years I have been adding water to my dog’s dry kibble. Letting it soak for 12-15 minutes before serving; I have found many benefits. For my older dog, who had been plagued with digestive problems, they have all been resolved. In my research, I have gotten some support and some conflicting ideas but I believe if you read on, you can make up your own mind. There are many, many benefits of soaking dry food. I share this information, not as an expert, but as a person with some experience wanting to add to your ‘perspective’ and the health of your dog and/or cat. Read this article, check with your Vet and make up your own mind.

First, dogs, cats and many animals were designed to eat foods which were 70%-90% moisture. Dry kibble is dehydrated to about 10% moisture. When a dog eats the dry food, the food is seeking moisture and robs the animal of important vital fluids and creates a situation of the dog being dehydrated and needing to rehydrate. With dry food both the stomach and intestines are upset. Important digestive fluids are taken up by the dry food in the stomach and in the intestines. Intestines are designed to get nutrition from moisture. Dry food prevents much absorption of nutriments in the intestine. When an animal eats the dry food and fills their stomach and afterward water is added, from drinking after eating, the stomach swells and may contribute to bloat. The dry food swells in size and robs the dog of important digestive fluids.

Do an experiment and decide for yourself. Take two cups and put about 1/3 cup of dry food in each cup. Keep one cup dry and to the other cup, add half of cup of warm water and let it set for 15 minutes. Compare and think about what is happening to your dog’s stomach.

There are many benefits to adding water and soaking. First, the dog becomes and stays hydrated. Second, it reduces bloating. Third, it is easier to chew and digest. Fourth, with a bit of ‘gravy’, it tastes better. Fifth, with warm water the ‘aroma’ is inviting. Dogs like good smells. Sixth, the dog will eat less food and be full. You can reduce the amount of dry food served. I feed my 90 pound lab 2 cups of kibble soaked; 1 cup morning and 1 cup night. Finally, with wet food, the dog will eat slower.

Some people might argue that eating dry food cleans the dog’s teeth. Not so! Most dogs do not chew enough with the dry food. If you want cleaner teeth, you have to clean their teeth. Some chew bones may help, but not kibble.

Bottom Line: Bringing dry food to higher moisture content will benefit the animal in many ways. They will be healthy and hydrated. Add equal or more water per kibble. One cup kibble, one and one half cup water (minimum), soak 12-15 minutes. For a little extra, you might add a bit of low salt broth.

[anonymously]

http://www.homeovet.net/dynamic/php/downloads/dog-c8470f2c75dbe4b683205c3919ee2310/dog_diet_complete.pdf

Maybe this will help.

PS: Bones are risky. Once you have been to the emergency vet once or twice due to broken teeth, or GI blockages, you may change your mind about providing them for your pet.

BTW: A dog is not a wolf. http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2014/06/one-more-time-dogs-are-not-wolves/

[Kelly P]

Ok I have not yet gotten my puppy I have about 4 weeks still. She will grow up to be around 100lbs, so I’ll probably feed her about 2lbs a day. We will be training too with treats so I need to be sure they level each other out. I have done a lot of research as I’ve been preparing for the past 1-2 years. What I found so far is the following.

Feeding anti-oxidants or some sort of cooked veggies is a good idea. Feeding organic eggs, shell and all, is good at least once a week. Egg shells provide a lot of calcium. Feeding a whole fish once a week is good because of the oil it provides, be sure not to feed tuna because of the high mercury levels. Cooked Tripe is great and so is a some coconut oil. I figure I can saute the veggies in coconut oil.

As far as percentages I have read a few different things but my research has come up with the below.

Version 1
75% Muscle/skin (i.e chicken breast)
10% Edible Bone
5% Liver
5% Non liver organs
5% Anti-oxidants/Veggies

Version 2
50% Meaty Bones
35% Muscle/Skin (i.e chicken breast)
5% Liver
5% Non liver organs
5% Anti-oxidants/Veggies

My main questions are about bones. I know you can’t just let the dog eat bones they have to get used to them so they actually chew them, else I’ll have to grind them up. But I’d prefer not to. Wolves don’t grind their bones up prior to eating.

I also am not entirely sure of what are good meaty bones, I know almost all bones in small animals are fine. Neck/tail bones of larger animals for the most part are fine. To stay away from basically legs as they’re denser. And an Edible bone should be something that is easily consumable.

What would be the best way to get my puppy acclimated to bones properly? Hand feeding is one I’ve found, but will I be able to trust my dog as she gets older and bigger? I don’t plan to leave her food out or anything but let’s say I put the food down and something comes that needs my attention for a bit. I’d like to think she’d be fine. I’m paranoid and want to do this right.

Also could I possibly be missing something at all?

Resources used
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijP_CVZUa5g&list=LLcG0oHG3mpprbGFFglrzVyg&index=2
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/raw-feeding-primer/
http://rawfeddogs.org/rawguide.html
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/04/01/raw-food-diet-part-1.aspx
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/04/01/raw-food-diet-part-2.aspx
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/04/01/raw-food-diet-part-3.aspx
http://www.dogster.com/forums/Raw_Food_Diet/thread/697247/1
And various other user forums and sites.

• This topic was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Kelly P.

[Danni A]

I recently read something about high protein diets being inappropriate for Irish Wolfhound pups. Both my pups, now 8 months old, are on high protein diets. I stumbled on this site whilst researching, as I was concerned that we had unintentionally harmed our dogs by feeding a high protein diet. However, after doing some extra research and considering the size and condition of our dogs, I think the higher protein diet has been ideal for them. They have grown quickly compared to smaller breeds, yes, but they are a giant breed. When comparing their size to growth charts for the breed, they are much smaller and so would appear to be growing slower than what is considered the norm by breeders. At the moment, we feed our male pup a bit more than our bitch because he is taller and leaner than her. We feed 500-600 grams kibble in the mornings (Ivory Coat grain free for pups, alternated with Black Hawk for pups – does contain some grain) and we feed 500-600 grams Raw Puppy 76 or sometimes BARF in the evenings. They receive meaty bones like lamb shanks once a week as a treat, and other natural treats during training. The dogs are happy, energetic (when not sleeping), have good coat condition with no itches, rashes or hair loss, no stomach upsets and regular healthy stools. So I’m inclined to think that a higher protein diet has been very good for them. I hope someone finds this post useful or has any feedback to provide.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Danni A. Reason: spelling error and clarity

[El]

Hi sherrie l, welcome to DFA

Your instincts are correct! Your lab would benefit from a proper diet for his condition, and in my opinion that would be a LOW CARB wet food, preferably homemade, or commercial raw, cooked, or canned.

Diabetes is a disease in which the body either doesn’t produce enough insulin to correctly breakdown carbohydrates, or the body becomes resistant to the insulin it does make. Since diabetes always affects carbohydrate breakdown, it makes sense to limit carbs as much as possible. At least that’s the way I see it, and limiting carbs as much as possible is the best way to normalize blood sugars and avoid diabetic complications.

So, if you agree with me so far then I would like to offer you a few diet options;

1) Homemade, properly balanced, low carb, moderate fat. high protein, lightly cooked. I feel this is the best option. ANY change in diet should be done slowly, over a minimum of 2 weeks. If you want to try raw, I would first do a 2 week transition to lightly cooked, and then an additional 2 week transition from lightly cooked to raw. A good book to start you off is;

Any recipe for raw food that does NOT contain ground bones can be safely cooked. ANY changes in diet will also require an adjustment in insulin. Less carbs = less insulin, more carbs = more insulin. I would NOT change his diet without monitoring his blood sugars at home, at least 4 times a day during transitions. I would also consult a Vet who is willing to support you on a change to a low carb diet.

2) Any 5 star raw, cooked, or canned food that meets these guidelines;
Low carb = less than 15% of calories from carbohydrates
Moderate fat = less than 50% of calories from fat.
High protein = minimum, 35% of calories from protein
These are MY definitions and others may have different opinions on what constitutes low, moderate, or high.

5 star wet – /dog-food-reviews/wet/5-star/

5 star raw – /dog-food-reviews/raw/5-star/

Editors choice (a fee applies) – /editors-choice-landing/

I wish you and your pup the best 😉

PS – “My 11 year old lab was recently diagnosed with diabetes and is taking *15 mls.* of insulin twice a day.”

You mean 15 units. U-100 insulin has 100 units per mL, and U-40 insulin has 40 units per mL. Each line on an insulin syringe equals 1 unit, not 1 mL 😉

[Susan]

Hi, have you looked at the Royal Canine S/O Urinary? When I rescued my boy he was weeing blood, while he was being desexed he had an ultra scan & he had Crystals stones, he was put on the Royal Canine S/O Urinary wet & dry for 6 weeks, after 6 weeks he had another ultra scan to see if the crystal had dissolved & they had all dissolved, the Royal Canine worked, vet said he must of been used for breeding… Patch also has skin problems when he eats any Hills vet diets, he itches real bad, but while he was eating the Royal Canine S/O he never scratched…

I went thru a Animal Naturopath cause Patch has IBD & Skin problems, Jacqueline Rudan put Patch on a Raw maintenance Diet, that I cook now, minus the bones, here’s the Diet but scroll down & click on the “Acidifying Urinary Crystals Diet” & see what foods Jacqueline recommends you feed for your dogs health problem….
http://www.naturalanimalsolutions.com.au/natural-diet.html

[ovcharka]

I’ve had my dogs on homemade for years and they’re incredibly healthy. Get a strong meat grinder (at least 1hp), I use LEM #22. Grind up whole roaster chicken, bones and all. Remove some of the skin & fat first. Also grind hard boiled eggs, shells too. Get a good food processor to puree a variety of veggies, including leafy greens (I use kale). Add some ground flax seed (coffee grinder works here) and some powdered/granular kelp. I also add oatmeal, but that’s optional. I use no synthetics, no supplements. I make big batches and freeze. I have the healthiest dogs on the planet!

[Kristen H]

I am going through my third round of pancreatitis with my 10yr old pom. The first time was 6 yrs ago and the result of some hot wing bones that were left out on a table at a friend’s house and he politely hopped up on one of the chairs and had a party. It got pretty bad but he recovered swiftly. The second bout was in July of 2015 and we caught it because I noticed he had a fever and he never showed symptoms beyond that. He is currently recovering from the latest and seems to be in so much pain. He is lethargic and not too interested in food. I just don’t understand what keeps causing it. We have monitored his food and will now switch to Hills Science Diet. I am so scared this will be a never ending thing. He was doing great for 6 years and then out of nowhere twice in 7 months. I would just like to hear from others who’ve had similar experiences. I am such a nervous wreck right now. I know I’m not helping my dog feeling like this. I can barely eat or sleep I’m so worried. I hate seeing him like this.

[Jenn H]

I heard from Solid Gold yesterday. They were so prompt and forthcoming in their answers. That’s huge to me.
Before I share where everything is made, I think it’s important to let you know that they test samples from every batch prior to distribution. The tests are done by an independent third party.
I just asked how long they have had this practice in place.
When Diamond has had recalls I discovered Solid Gold has also voluntarily recalled their foods despite testing negative for salmonella. Again I think that’s huge. They are willing to err on the side of caution even though it’s monetarily costly.
I cannot believe how much research I have to do these days go avoid feeding my dogs something that may harm them.
Onto the answers…
Solid Gold Manufacturers:
dry dog food distributed from Diamond in Missouri
-Wolf King
-Wolf Cub
-Hund-N-Flocken
-Wee Bits
-Buck Wild
-Lil Boss
-Star Chased
-Sunday Sunrise
**all other dry dog foods and their dry cat foods are distributed from Crosswind in Kansas**
all canned foods are distributed by Simmons in NJ
treats from Mountain Country in OK
-Cinna-bones
-Cinna-bits
treats from Mountain County in Utah
-all jerky treats
****I think it’s important to mention that most of the recalls were from the South Carolina plant.****
I am awaiting a reply as to when they began implementing their independent testing and where the supplements are manufactured/distributed.

I am as convinced as I can be that Solid Gold is proactive in preventing illness from their foods. I’d feel loads better if they stopped using Diamond all together.

[InkedMarie]

I order from them. I order their 10lb bags of ground & beef rib bones. My only complaint is that when you order, you don’t know when the food will arrive. If you need it now, I suggest emailing Rich first, asking for arrival date.

Other online options: Hare Today (I buy mainly from them), Raw Feeding Miami & My Pet Carnivore (I haven’t used them yet).

[Rox B]

I feed PMRD 80/10/5/5 and believe organs are essential for making the diet complete. I still feel organs should not be fed during the transitioning from kibble to raw until the dog’s gut has had time to develop a more acidic PH level (after 3 different proteins and no diarrhea). When dogs just start out eating raw the PH in their guts are still too alkaline from kibble. They can have trouble digesting the rich nutrients and fats in organ meat. A dog’s gut needs time to develop the acidic PH levels capable of digesting organs (and raw bones). Especially, in small breeds like the OP’s dog.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Rox B.

[Emily G]

Hello,

I wanted to share my experiences with pancreatitis. Years ago my german shepard had an acute case and we almost lost her. She would not touch the prescription food the vet gave us so we make her food ourselves. We found that she did well on the leanest beef, and as all white meat chicken and turkey (we bought the breast only.) We cooked the meat as she was picky eater and seemed to prefer the food cooked when at her sickest. We rinsed the cooked meat after it cooked to rinse off any extra fat that she did not need. We added preferance by the honest kitchen or used our own blend of crushed vegetables and added pumpkin or sweet potatoe. If we feed the vegetable blend, we will add calcium from eggshells. She did well. After a time she handled the meat raw but raw bones she never did though bones have more fat. It would make her act like she did not feel well so we kept this up with this recipe for a long time, and gradually found she could have most kinds of meat just as long as it was lean (lamb and duck were no, and she ate fish and eggs very occasionally once she was healthy.)
I will agree with the bone broth. We didn’t make it first but once started it seemed to help heal her digestive from the irritation caused of vomiting. For treats use bites of meat and she cannot have cheese or dairy (too much fat.) Also give coconut oil if tolerated. We use no grains. Keep stress low and water bowl clean and lots of sunshine. Feed more meals instead of one or two. A day of fast can help. I hope I can help and am sorry English is not my first language. I hope you can understand my writing.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Emily G.

[Susan]

Hi Debbie, sounds like Environment Allergies, pollen, dust, trees, mites etc have you tried an antihistamine? & wiping him down when he comes back inside? here’s the raw diet my boy was put on, I went thru a Animal Naturopath Jacqueline Rudan in Australia she does consults over the phone & Skype, first I just sent her a few emails asking for help & what could be wrong with Patch, she emailed me back & said we need to strengthen Patches stomach his immune system… Patch was put on the Maintenance Diet, he has IBD & Skin Allergies or you can scroll down & click on the Skin Allergy Diet, pick 2 proteins, feed 1 meat for breakfast & the other protein for dinner pick 2-4 veggies & 1-2 fruits, make sure you peel & cut up all veggies & fruit then put thru a blender & then I was freezing 2 spoon sections of the veggie/fruit mix, I was adding 1/2 capsule human Probiotic to each meal, the probiotic was gluten & dairy free, 1/2 teaspoon DigestaVite Plus 100 & Jacqueline omega 3,6 9 oil…I added all this very slowly into his diet cause of his IBD, for a 18kg -30lb dog, I was told to feed 1 cup raw (protein) twice a day, I picked low fat meat, kangaroo & 2 spoons blended veggies/fruit twice a day, I picked chicken for dinner I picked broccoli, celery, zucchini, apple & carrot…..now I cook this diet minus any bones, Patch kept regurgitating & burping up the raw diet.. 🙁
Is he taking omega 3, 6 & 9 oil? a lady from a Face Book Group “Dogs issues and other information support group” contacted Jacqueline & her dog was lacking omega 3, 6 & 9 in her diet.. http://www.naturalanimalsolutions.com.au/natural-diet.html

The Face book group “Dogs issues, allergies and other information support group” Petra one of the Admin ladies has a Beagle with bad allergies as well….

[Joanne K]

Hi Suzanne — Glad to hear Cookie appears better. Too many antibiotics was my first reaction. Your poor pup was becoming a chemical soup. Think of her as a tiny baby — they are very reactive to anything entering their systems — food, drugs, bacteria. The antibiotics have affected her gut flora so by adding a probiotic or a dollop of yogurt to her meals it will help replenish it. For a puppy that size and even at full-grown, she won’t consume that much food so if you must feed kibble, invest in the best quality — and only buy small bags so you can replace it every week or two as it does go rancid.

To keep her drinking, add tuna water or beef broth or chicken broth to her water. You can easily make your own bone broth (preferable grass-fed beef bones and chicken bones in a crockpot with 1T apple cider vinegar, dulse, mushrooms, kale, cover with water and slow cook for 24 hours. Skim off fat, refrigerate some, freeze the rest in cubes), and add a half cup to each meal to add enzyme and nutrients. You can use it in your own soups too! Google bone broth for a list of benefits.

I always advocate whole foods (not canned, bagged or processed) so the closer you can get to this, the better for a dog’s health and your own. As others have said, any changes should be made over the course of a week or 2 to avoid upsetting the system even more.

The body, theirs and ours, is an amazing thing if you allow it to do what it is supposed to do with minimal stresses of unknown foods and drugs.

[yjesse]

Hi everyone, I was wondering whether my Golden Retriever Charlie is underweight. She is just about 9 months and weighs 41 pounds. I can feel her ribs, but it’s not visible. I can feel her hip bones as well, and she looks narrow. She has good appetite, great energy, and always finishes her food. The vet thinks she’s on the skinny side but otherwise healthy. We’ve had her checked for worms and parasites, and all came back negative. I am currently feeding Orijen Puppy Large or Kasik Pacific Fish with a bit of wet food and 1/4 C. of raw goat milk every days. Any suggestions to help her “bulk up” a bit?

Here’s a picture of Charlie from a few days ago: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B49deblV4jyoenk5NTVfOFpnLWM/view?usp=sharing

Thank you

[Susan]

Hi Kim, when I rescued my boy 3 years ago he was weeing blood, he needed to be desexed within 1-5 days of receiving him, so when the rescue vet desexed him they did an ultra scan & the vet seen crystals, he was put on antibiotics & Royal Canine Vet Diet S/O Urinary wet tin food & dry Kibble for 6 weeks, he had to only eat the Royal Canine S/O wet & kibble for 6 weeks, so his crystal would dissolve, he had an ultra scan after 6 weeks & all the crystals had dissolved, then the vet said put him back on his normal diet, cause I had just rescued him I didn’t know what to feed him so I ended up contacting an Animal Naturopath cause he had other health problems…. Here’s her diets, it’s raw but I cooked the diet, minus any bones, if you scroll down click on the health diets he needs…. Diabetes diet & a weight reduction diet, work out the common foods between both diets & try feeding some cook meals for him, he will lose weight when he starts eating either a raw or cooked diet & the weight loss will help with his arthritis…Kibble isn’t good for bladder problems, wet foods are the better…… http://www.naturalanimalsolutions.com.au/natural-diet.html

[Natalie R]

InkedMarie: thanks! We are trying to transition her (we have some fish to add once per week, and we recently added the egg), but since she’s still having problems with basic bones and pollen allergies, we’re being slow with the transition. We will probably introduce the fish in a few days, and we have some turkey for tonight. She had allergies when we introduced it at thanksgiving, and we wanted to wait for them to subside before we tried again in case it was actually a reaction to turkey or we would have continued sooner. Still, I hadn’t seen any recommendations for just HOW many kinds of meat should be in rotation, so that is very useful! Thank you very much!

DogFoodie: thank you! It’s always good to have reassurance.

[Coonhound Mama]

Oh that’s great! I hope the grinds work for your pup. I am wondering if dogs that aren’t big chewers have problems with PMR simply because they aren’t interested in vigorously chewing things. Ours sounds a lot like yours in that she is very good with large recreational load-bearing bones and antlers, but not so much the edible dietary bones. We do like you mentioned and provide RMBs for recreation and teeth cleaning once or twice per week and brush every day. I hope you find a solution that works!

[Natalie R]

Thank you both!

A friend offered today for us to borrow her vitamix to blend raw chicken after hearing about our problems. We plan to try out what you suggested, Coonhound Mama; it’s reassuring for us, too, that our dog isn’t the only one with trouble eating bones. I read some raw food vets say that it’s okay to give recreational bones like beef knuckles that still have meat attached for teeth-cleaning purposes. Our dog does very well with her deer antlers (doesn’t chew too vigorously and hurt herself), so we may add that to make up for lost jaw exercise and hygiene if grinding works out.

To anon, thanks for the resource! I don’t think grains will work for our girl because she reacts so badly to even oatmeal shampoo (we can feel how inflamed her skin becomes through her thick coat), but the bone meal guide is useful. Every dog is different, so I know some would thrive on that diet plan. I will bookmark it for its produce and vitamin references especially.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Natalie R.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Natalie R.

[Natalie R]

Thanks! Yes, we are aware of those issues and are keeping an eye out for discomfort or unusual behavior. So far, the vomiting I described was not alarming because she acted well before and after and we could easily figure out the cause and avoid it in the future.

We would like to exhaust our resources for raw before trying something else, and we refuse to give commercial dog food (even high quality stuff) after reading several scientific studies about it. We chose raw over cooked homemade food because bones provide calcium in what should be an easily digestible form. Since she does digest bones when she chews and doesn’t digest ground eggshell, we aren’t sure if we could use many alternative calcium sources for a cooked diet.

[Natalie R]

Hello, everyone! I’ve had some trouble getting responses from other raw groups, so I though I would try here.

We started our nearly 7-year-old Westie on a raw diet about a month ago. She eats chicken thigh meat, occasional eggs (without shell because we dry and grind them sometimes and she doesn’t even digest THAT well), chicken wings, liver, gizzard, and veggies (the veggies aren’t included in her meal calculations and are purely extra. We have fed them to her since she was a puppy and know what she digests flawlessly).

She does not digest bones well. With wings, she will often have extremely mucusey poops with long chunks of undigested bone (she gulps). If we give her larger bones (drumsticks) every other day instead of small ones everyday, she vomits for 24 hours. We tried neck bones early into the raw feeding process, and she just threw up undigested bone, so we thought they were too dense.

She never seems ill until she vomits, her coat is softer than on kibble, and she has lots of energy, but we really don’t know what to do. I know vomiting is sometimes part of the process, but it doesn’t seem healthy to vomit two meals in a row because of one.

Does anyone have any advice? She’ll happy eat anything (except thawed liver – we have to give it frozen for textural reasons), so all suggestions are possible.

Thank you very much!

• This topic was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by Natalie R.

[Jenn H]

A while back Greenies changed and a lot of dogs started having stomach upset. I haven’t used them in yrs. They can also be fattening.
I’m lucky though that my dogs have naturally good teeth. A lot has to do with genetics.
My dogs also like the Nylabones that are chew toys. I haven’t given them the edible kind.
Wysong has a powder that you add to the water. A friend of mine just started her dog on it. No verdict yet on how well it works.

[InkedMarie]

I have yet to have anyone tell me why the food you mention is good for teeth. Feed a 4 or 5 star food, brush your dogs teeth, give him some real bones to gnaw on. If your dogs teeth are bad, she may need a dental.

[Sherri P]

Hi, God Bless Everyone,

My Lab Tank Drake, likes these bones. He is a very sensitive doggy & everything seems to upset his tummy. The vet recommended this, so My husband & I started buying him Grain Free dog food by Rachel Ray which has helped him tremendously & this DreamBone which is rawhide free, cause our boy tank cannot eat rawhide either, without vomiting all over the place. I have read a lot of your comments & I am posting what the ingredients are in this: which I am copying right off the bag. DreamBone- (Dino chews) Grain Free, Gluten Free, Sugar Free, Helps maintain healthy teeth & gums, natural added vitamins…. Sweet potato, flour, pea flour, chicken, vegetable glycerin oil, dried brewers yeast, calcium carbonate, peanut butter, fish oil, dried kelp source of chlorophyll, dried tomato, calcium ascorbate source of vitamin c, vitamin e supplement, rosemary extract. Plus no GMO’s. All I can say Tank hasn’t vomited up by eating them. Which makes Dad & Mom Happy & Doggy Happy too 🙂

[kassie m]

Hi, my Siberian husky had his first seizure during thanksgiving last week. He just turned 2. The vet was unable to pinpoint a cause, but I would like to be cautious and proactive moving forward while I monitor him for more seizures.

He’s been eating Earthborn holistic primitive with raw eggs, raw meats and bones given as other meals. I read that Rosemary is bad for seizures so I switched him to Acana singles duck and pear, despite my disdain for the legume content. I’m looking for suggestions on anything that might be better or if someone could look at this food and let me know what they think? I’ve also been told poultry could be bad for seizures? I am berg information overwhelmed and just want the best for my boy. 🙂 thanks.

[Ysabella J]

Hey everyone!

I know this is mainly a forum for dog nutrition but I am branching out looking for information. I will try to make this as short as possible. About a month ago, Reese (our 4 & a half year old Golden) was outside playing with a stick and came back to me crying. I examined her mouth and didn’t find anything. For the next few days she was very sore when opening her mouth too wide. Took her to the vet and they sedated her and checked her mouth and did X-rays with everything returning normal. She was put on meloxicam and the doctor warned me about MMM. She quickly got better and wasn’t as sore but I noticed she still wouldn’t open her mouth all the way when yawning and seemed to be careful when picking up balls. Another vet said it could be TMJ and to continue the nsaid for another week. Other than not being able to fully yawn, she seemed to be completely fine. Eating fine, no drool, no whining, etc. I talked to the vet and they recommended sending out the 2M antibody test and starting prednisone. I did some of my own research and decided to get a 2nd opinion from the holistic vet first. Only thing is, she was booked out 3 weeks. In the meantime, we were careful with her jaw. No bones or chewing and no ball playing. She didn’t get any worse and I once again only noticed her yawn being off. Fast forward, Reese had her initial appointment last week and the doctor there agreed with MMM. Said the muscles around her jaw bone felt almost non-existing. She also commented on how her cheek muscles looked like they were slightly sunken in. We sent out the 2M antibody test and it came back as a borderline antibody titer and they recommend a muscle biopsy to confirm. Vet agrees with me that since her symptoms aren’t terrible that we will wait to do this since it is an invasive procedure. The holistic vet decided to put her on chinese herbs and supplements. We are also doing acupuncture weekly (for now). She said at this point since her only symptom seems to be her yawning and muscle atrophy that we don’t need to put her on prednisone, or NSAIDs. If it gets worse, we may have to. I will do anything before turning to the steroids. We are reluctant that we caught it before it progressed but doc says no vaccines or toxins that can trigger a reaction since it’s an auto immune disease. We already had been feeding partially raw and Orijen kibble which we will continue to do. She has had two acupuncture sessions and has been on the supplements for one week and I haven’t noticed improvement, but she’s also not doing worse. Anyone have any recommendations or have been through this? I read it is common in the breed but I had never heard of this disease until now. Any advice is much appreciated from me and my girl. Thanks from the both of us!

[Jonathan S]

I had that worry the first time I gave turkey necks… my boys swallowed them in big chunks, though luckily there were no problems. I tried giving bigger, solid bones, like lamb shanks, but the amount of fat bothered them a bit.

My solution has been to incorporate ground meats that include bones in their raw diet… specifically ground duck and turkey necks, ground chicken backs, and ground bone it rabbit. I also leave the big, cow femur sections for them to gnaw on during the day.

Hope that helps!

[Coonhound Mama]

I’m a new raw feeder and this worries me, too. My dog is a recently adopted 5 year old coonhound who has been eating kibble her entire life until now. For this reason I started her out on bone, organ and meat grinds until her system adjusts. If you think your dog is a gulper, I would definitely try grinds first. Also, it can be helpful from what I have read to start your dog who is new to edible bones on larger bones that are as big as their own head size to discourage and avoid swallowing a piece that could cause blockages. Good luck!

[Coonhound Mama]

Hi InkedMarie,

Thanks for your response and congratulations on the new puppy! I am located in Old Orchard Beach, Maine. Just moved here a year ago so I’m trying to find some places nearby that will be cost effective. Thanks for sharing your advice regarding Reel Raw. I have read some other reviews that have noted the noticeably higher fat percentage, so I think for now we will stick with Hare Today. Our pup is a 5 year old shelter dog whom we’ve only had for three months, so for right now we are still doing a slow transition to raw. She’s been kibble fed her whole life! We’ve started out on the bone, organ and meat grinds which seems to be going very well. If I can muster up enough courage to start her on some edible bones (other than recreational bones) I will certainly take your advice and try the beef rib bones!

[InkedMarie]

Hello CM!
I use mostly Hare Today; I prefer their products. I do use some Reel Raw too. I use grinds, they’re a little fattier than Hare’s. My older two dogs (we just got a puppy last week) do just fine on their grinds. I buy the ten pounders, defrost then repackge but not in the summer (I hate defrosting when it’s warm). I love their beef rib bones too!
Give them a try! Where in Maine are you, if you don’t mind me asking?

[anonymously]

I stopped feeding my dogs raw bones after we ended up at the emergency vet x2 for GI blockages.

Give a Dog a Bone (Not!)–FDA warns of dangers of feeding bones to dogs

http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=raw+diet
Also, check the search engine here, example /forums/topic/rectal-issues/

[Margaret J]

I have a 45 lbs australian cattle dog and I fed him his first chicken foot last night. He did some crunching and chewing and then happily swallowed the foot whole with much of the bones still intact. One section of bone was large enough that he appeared struggle for a moment to swallow it but since then has appeared to be fine.

How concerned should I be about how well his raw bones are chewed? He does know how to chew his food and did chew the chicken foot some but I’m still anxious about the size of the bones he’s ingesting. Or maybe I’m being overly anxious and should just trust him and his body to know what to do with those raw bones?

Thanks for any help and input

[Madeline B]

Unlike the bones in raw salmon, the bones in canned salmon are pressure cooked and safe because they are soft and crumbly. They are also a hood cource of calcium.

[Susan]

Hi, my boy does poos with red blood when he eats something that he’s allergic too, also Bone stop any bone in the diet & add grounded egg shells instead for calcuim, I went thru a Animal Nutritionist to put Patch on a raw diet, I had to start with low fat meats Kangaroo, Chicken or Turkey & just 1 protein, no bones or organ meat….. I then had to blend some broccoli, Celery, Carrot & Apple in a blender & stop just before the veggies turn to a pulp water, I was adding 1 cup kangaroo with 1-2 spoons blended veggies, freeze the rest in section in freezer for the rest of the week/month… the Nutritionist wouldn’t let me feed any pet shop meats, raw Barf diets….she said the meat is real low grade quality & make my own raw…..
Patch didn’t last on his Raw Diet, he has IBD Skin/Food Allergies, I now cook his meals & he’s doing heaps better no blood, no jelly poos he also eats a kibble but not mixed with any cooked meals….

[anonymously]

I don’t listen to Dr Google if I see blood…..
I go to a real veterinarian who can examine my pet and advise me.

BTW: I have a medical background, I don’t go to the vet for every little thing.

PS: I had a dog on a semi-raw diet with raw bones, and I ended up at the emergency vet x 2 due to a blockage. No thank you.
I hope your dog is well, good luck.

[Susan]

Hi, does the brand his brother eats have a large puppy food? To gain weight google the food your interested in feeding & look at the Kcal/per cup Calorie content, its normally under the “Feeding Guidelines” some companies just write the Kcal/per kilo not per cup…..I always try & buy a kibble that’s over 400Kcal/per cup, that way you need less kibble to feed but I still feed a bit more then recommended, an extra cup divided between the 4 meals a day…Patch also has sensitive stomach IBD & has trouble keeping on his weight…. I have found with wet tin foods he regurgitates them back up into his mouth when he burps but your boy might be different, Patch also lost weight on the wet tin food, he needed to be feed 2 large tins a day, its seemed too much no wonder he was burping the food back up…..I was feeding 1 full cup of kibble for Breakfast & wet tin food for lunch & dinner, now I feed 1 full cup of kibble 406Kcal/cup breakfast & cooked chicken & sweet potatoes for lunch & dinner, he seems to keep his weight on better eating cooked chicken, then when he was eating the wet tin foods & its cheaper buying the fresh chicken pieces & sweet potatoes cooking then freezing weighed meals, then buying the wet tin foods & I know what he’s eating when I cook his meals….I bought one of those Dog Meat Rolls today from Pet Shop, Kangaroo & Potato, preservative free, gluten free, for skin/stomach allergies…. I’m going to give the Roll a go & see how he does….

Try & feed 3-4 smaller meals thru the day if you can….Holistic Select have a Grain free Puppy & Adult Anchovy, Salmon & Sardine kibble, its only but its only 341kcal/per cup that way they can both eat the same kibble, Holistic Select also make wet tin food but I have found its cheaper to buy a couple of kilos of chicken pieces, I remove all the skin then put them in a big pot & boil 20mins you collect all the cooked bones then slowly boil the bones over night & make bone broth, bone broth is very healthy… http://holisticselect.com.au/recipes.aspx?pet=dog

Also here’s a link for a Calorie Calculator, it’s for German Shepherds but its still works for any breed of dog, it gives you an idea how many calories your dogs needs to eat a day, work out how many calories your boy should be eating a day, email kibble or wet tin food companies & ask how many Kcal per CUP is their food..that’s what I was talking about Kcal/per cup, if I feed a kibble that’s 400kcal/cup then I feed just under 3 cups a day Patch needs around 1100 calories a day…..
http://www.german-shepherd-lore.com/dog-food-calculator.html

[Thor J]

The soy is one of the greatest myths out there that its raises estrogen levels in men OMG.The reality and the science is that ISOFLAVONES when they first isolated them the scientists they discovered that these molecules are look like the estrogen estradiol.BUT their effect on humans are HIGHLY BENEFICIAL and they act like SERMS (SELECTIVE ESTROGEN RECEPTOR MODULATORS) like the well known drug tamoxifen for example BUT without the sides of the drug.We all have the alph and beta estrogenic receptors in our body,usually the alpha are linked with some hormone related cancers and the beta they have only favourable effects for us.The alpha they are mainly in breast tissue ovaries,liver,testicles the beta in lungs,prostate,blood cells,bladder thymus,bones.Now how do the isoflavoes work.They BIND to the ALPH receptors (the bad receptors) when you have EXCESSIVE amount of MAMMALIAN ESTROGENS (the REAL ESTROGENS) in your blood for example in adolescence or when a woman is pregnant or when you are drinking for example too much COWS MILK or you are eating cheeses red meat etc then the isoflavones they BIND with the alpha because IF THE MAMMLIAN ESTROGENS (your own or the estrogens from tha milk or animals that you are eating or medications that many women are taking) they will stimulate on the long run SOME POSSIBLE HORMONE RELATED CANCERS.The isoflavones protect you that way and tou pee the extra estrogen through the urine.On the other hand when either a man or a woman tou have VERY LOW ESTROGEN (and even for us men SOME percentage or estrogen we MUST have in order to have health cardiovascular system bones etc) the isoflavones they go and bind the beta receptors and they excert ONLY FAVOURABLE EFFECTS ON YOUR BODY and they continue to excert their effect even after the levels of estrogen have decreased.Plus isoflavones are powerfull antioxidants and they have shown promising activity in combination with some other interesting molecules like sulforaphane for example in cancer fighting.Similar things like the soys ANTIESTROGENIC activity if you have high estrogens in your blood they excert all the cruciferous vegetables like broccoli,kale,brussels sprouts etc the 3-indole-carbinol and the diindolymethane DIM.Soy is PERFECTLY fine food high in COMPLETE protein minerals and many other beneficial phytochemicals just beware of GMO soy.In reality more that 95% of the GMO soy is feed for the livestock among with GMO corn and oats.Organic soy is perfectly fine.The only animal (food) that its perfect from any aspect is the egg especially the egg WHITE caus ethe yolk has too much ARA and it acts as and proinflammatory marker.Egg white is only protein water sodium and selenium go for it.I’m on a whole food plant based diet (dont like the word vegan) with the exception of egg whites (always free range from a friends farm,real farm) and the gains are better than ever.Dont stay in the medieval times STEREOTYPES ARE THE CURSE OF KNOWLEDGE AND WISDOM.

[Gracee Sunshine Alexiss]

Wow thank you all so very much for all your imput. I will try my best to answer all your querries. I was not on the search for a puppy but my aunts female yorkie was in heat and the neighbors male found out before anyone else. Upon finding out she was pregnant they took her to regular vet visits and she gave birth with no complications to 2 females. So my family has been trading puppies for yearz and I was the only one who hadn’t been blessed yet so I was given first choice and I chose my Gracee. Anyway yes she was fed some not so good food for a Lil bit but that by no means makes her a poop pup maybe not from a reputable breeder but a good girl otherwise. Now I do have one terrible thing to confess… After acquiring her at 8 weeks I was eating some big fat green GRAPES and it was really hot that first day and I did it I gave her a grape and yes she ate some and licked some juice. To my absolute horror about a month later I had ran across an article that said grapes and raisins are extremely toxic and can cause almost immediate kidney failure. I felt so bad but figured the damage was already done and I never noticed any Wierd behavior or anything during that time. Course I wouldn’t know what to look for but being a lab tech I am taking her in this week to get her kidney functions and possibly her fasting lipids checked. Ok so yes she is on Revolution and she is due for her next dose how ever I’d like to get her on something that lasts a Lil longer. I heard tossing eucalyptus leaves and or twigs bark or branches into strategic places can eliminate most fleas is this true? And as far as I know her parents don’t have mange of any kind. she was treated for round, pin, whip, and one other kind and then I had to get a specific treatment for the tape ickees and got rid of them they seemed to be the worst and drove my baby nuts keeping her up all night… stupid things. I check her every night for re infestation but so far so good. And no bloating is apparent. I do think a fecal sample and skin scraping will also be done on our next visit. Even though worms may not be present there ovas may be which means new hatchlings. I apologize for not answering every question asked but wanted to keep this post a Lil shorter. I will reread the correspondences again and try to give the info asked for. Thank you all so much for caring about my baby. I’m so greatful to have found this forum. Oh wait so she is due for her 3rd and last vaccination so I should hold off on this last one to make sure it’s not related to her itchyness? I think her itchyness for the most part is from using human shampoo and water that was too warm and bathing her too much I started at 8 weeks and bathed her almost once a week I was told that was excessive and hind site usually being 20/20 I agree. I was also wondering if the 1rst 2nd and 3rd vaccines are the same and if not whats the difference? and is she gonna get her rabies this time? and is it possible for me to purchase the vaccine myself and give it to her myself? oh and I took her for a walk (in my arms) I forgot we have a couple flocks of wild turkeys that walk through the neighborhood and next door had homing pigeons that still stick around and nest we also have owls hawks turkey vultures skunks racoons possums and they all leave droppings is this an extra problem that she might need a different vaccine for possibly? the lepto vaccine? and next year she will be camping with us in the Stanislau National Forest where there are bears and deer. I might as well throw this in as well I have access to fresh venison pretty much the whole deer season is this good for my growing yorkie? if so how much and how often and how should I serve it to her? and can she eat the bones? horns? hoofs? is there anyother part of the animal that may or may not be good for her. thank you all so much for all your valuable information.
respectfully,
Michelle and Gracee (my sunshine)

[Alex p]

Calcium plays a very important role in your dog’s diet. Not only does calcium help build strong bones, it also helps heart function by supporting the contractions in the heart muscle, supports nerve transmission, muscle building and signaling, and helps with hormone secretion.

Calcium levels have the ability to remain stable in the body because calcium is stored in the bones and teeth. If the diet is low in calcium, the body will use the resources stored in these areas until more calcium is introduced into the diet. While this stored supply helps keep other body functions running smoothly, shortages of calcium can affect bone and tooth health. That is why it is always a good idea to make sure your dog has a healthy supply of calcium in the diet.

[Alex p]

since meat is high in phosphorus and lower in calcium, too much meat is not good for dogs over long periods of time”. (Many people still confuse the disastrous all meat diets with meat-based diets; one is not good the other is ideal.) Grain-based diets for dogs, and even more so for cats, do not make nutritional sense.

You can offer some natural foods to provide some variety. Natural foods include fresh human-grade raw meat (e.g. raw lamb), raw meaty bones and vegetables

[Bobby dog]

You’re welcome Hav mom. Hopefully your pup will like them. Whimzeez are convenient to try since they’re sold individually and in bags. One of the regular posters AGT recommended them so I gave them a try.

I’ll have to come back for an update when I open the bags of Indigenous. It takes us forever to go through a bag since he only gets one a week.

The list is handy, but other than the GF Greenies, I don’t think any of the dental bones recommended by the VOHC fit my criteria. The info was a good read for me along with the other info on the site. C4D posted the site to me on the review side so we can thank her for it! 😉

[Kristin S]

I’m desperate for help trying to find some good treats and chew bones for my dogs. They are so picky with treats and I’ve had a hard time finding something for them that really lasts. My big guy is 120lbs and my little one is 75lbs so, please no comments from people with cat sized dogs. I really just want to hear from other owners of XLARGE dogs, what do you use? What lasts a long time (a day or more)? Here is my experience so far:
– Nylabones: last less than an hour (even the Super size)
– Benebones: dogs don’t like them
– Bullysticks: last less than an hour
– Antlers: dogs don’t like them
– Cow hooves: Not recommended by our vet.
– Rawhides: definitely not recommended by our vet.
– Himalayan chews: they liked one brand and not the other. So we’re still testing this.
– Whimzees: pretty good, especially if I freeze them with yogurt in the back.
– Stuff kongs: pretty good
– Marrow bones: last about an hour

What have I not thought of?? Thanks a lot for the help!

[Bobby dog]

Hi Hav mom:
I have been trying out dental bones over the past few months. I wanted to find some brands to recommend to friends who don’t brush their dog’s teeth. My dog happily volunteered as a taste tester and so far he likes Merrick ‘Lil Brush & Texas Toothpick dental bones, and Whimzeez. I feel Whimzeez probably has the best ingredients of the two brands. Several regular posters also use Natural Balance dental bones. I feed one per week and found they do an okay job. However, IMO brushing is the best for dental health.

I recently purchased Indigenous dental bones at a B1G1 sale. I only liked two recipes ingredient wise, the original and lamb. They are all one size and perforated to break apart easily with directions on each bag as to the amount to feed different sizes of dogs. I haven’t opened them yet because I still have some Merricks to finish up.

Here’s a list from the VOHC that might help you with your search:
http://www.vohc.org/accepted_products.htm

[anonymously]

I don’t use dental chews for my pets. I brush their teeth once a day with chicken flavored toothpaste, they consider it a treat. (YouTube has excellent how to videos). I have had very good results.
I consider dental chews to be breath fresheners, at best. They do nothing to remove tarter from the back and sides.
I don’t use bones anymore either, due to the risk of broken teeth and GI disturbances I encountered.

[InkedMarie]

I feed prey model raw in ground form. I buy mostly from Hare Today, some from Reel Raw Dog, a little from a local co-op. It is meat/bone/organ & most have tripe. I use beef rib bones and pork ribs for dental health. I add salmon oil daily and eggs 3x a week. It is balanced just as if it was whole prey.

[Laura C]

I have been feeding raw for over 5 years now, but as life becomes more hectic I’m really struggling with it. Does anybody have any recipes for raw food that cover all the essential vitamins and nutrients? To buy commercially prepared raw food would be way to costly (I’m feeding a 75 lb lab mix and a 110 lb Rottweiler/Doberman mix)! So my thinking is that if I can get a few good recipes that I can grind (I have a very good grinder that can handle chicken bones), spend an hour or so every couple of weeks grinding and freezing everything in portions, throw in a chicken back once a day to keep their teeth sparkling, it would help simplify my life! I just can’t seem to find any recipes to follow. I just want to be sure my doggies are getting everything they need. Honestly, I think I overthink things way too much….my girls have shiny coats, sparkling teeth, and lots of energy, but I’d appreciate any advice anyways!

[Bobby dog]

What a terrible story, but a happy ending! That is a great budget for kibble IMO.

The protein & fat %’s in Puppy Chow are average, the fiber might be just a little more than other kibbles depending on what recipe you’re feeding. It averages 27% protein, 10-12% min. fat, and 4-5% fiber. Sometimes changes in any of these percentages can cause digestive upset. Something to keep in mind when deciding on a new food. Kibble in higher price ranges usually have a higher meat content so protein and fat percentages will go up along with calories per cup. One other thing to keep in mind is overfeeding can also cause digestive upset. If he is skin and bones I would work with my Vet to figure out the calories he needs to add healthy weight in a reasonable amount of time.

Check out Victor you should find several formulas to fit your needs within your budget; maybe the Chicken Meal w/Brown Rice. Looking at the Mitchell’s site I see they sell Purina Mills, Inc. They may sell their dog food lines, PMI Nutrition. I feed some recipes from their Infinia and Exclusive lines, these would be in your price range.

I also feed Nutrisource, Fromm, Precise, some Pro Plan recipes, Annamaet, Wellness Core, Nature’s Variety, and Rawz.

If you decide to buy on-line I regularly order from Chewy, Petflow, PetSmart, and Petco. They all have great customer service and prices.

I don’t feed Diamond products at this time due to their recall history; they make Taste of the Wild and manufacture some Solid Gold recipes along with some other brands. They have allot of affordable foods, if you decide to feed one of their products or anything they manufacture I suggest signing up for recall alerts:
/dog-food-recall-alerts/

I recommend adding moisture to kibble even if it’s just water. Adding fresh or canned foods could help with his weight. Some budget friendly canned foods are Wal-Mart’s Pure Balance Stews ($1/can), Tractor Supply Company 4Health Stews (.99/can), and if you have a Costco membership Kirkland Signature Nature’s Domain (.80/can) you have to buy it by the case. Each are 4-5 star DFA rated. I don’t recommend Pure Balance 95% or 4Health Grain free canned foods due to the high fat content.

This is a download I use as a guide for adding fresh foods to a kibble diet:
https://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DN330EBK

[Bethany C]

Our budget is to hopefully stay in the $40-$50 range for 30-40 lbs of dog food.
No our vet did not check specifically for those parasites and we will probably switch dog food first then get the dog checked for any other parasites if the switch of food does not work. And we have a place called Mitchells pet supply here in Wichita, KS which sells Taste of the Wild and Victor, but I can shop online as well if I need too.
The back story to Buddy was he was thrown out of a truck with another Yellow lab while going down a major highway a month before we found him. So he is literally skin and bones but the vet checked him all out and said he was good to go other than the severe malnourishment.

[Freddy w]

Hi
When I have a issue with one of my dogs the first thing I do is get a can of pure pumpkin from the store

And feed them 2 table spoons once in the am then once at night
Then I boil chicken and feed them that for a few days
Nooooo bones!!!!

If that does not help call the vet
Could be worms causing that

But try the pumpkin