[anonymously]

Corgis tend to put on weight easily, they are herding dogs and need to be active. I had to walk the one I had for 3 to 5 miles a day to keep her trim.
Feed measured amounts twice a day, I would not free feed. See tips in General Guidelines http://www.homeovet.net/dynamic/php/downloads/dog-c8470f2c75dbe4b683205c3919ee2310/dog_diet_complete.pdf

Make sure he is drinking adequate water, maybe add a splash to her food. I like Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea dry food as a base, but there are other good brands. Check Chewy.com for prices and delivery.
If they have an adequate diet, they don’t need supplements, unless your vet advises differently. I do add a fish oil capsule for dry skin.

I have found this site to be informative. http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/nutrition/

[anonymously]

I like Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea (canned and dry), I use the canned as a topper and add a splash of water. I have switched dog foods without problems, but you could half and half (new and old) it for a few days to avoid GI upset. They like the canned turkey stew too. Newman Organics has a nice canned turkey (95%).
See Chewy.com for prices and delivery options.

[anonymously]

I would continue to add a little chicken broth, kibble by itself is boring. Have her teeth been checked? Any discomfort would make it hard to chew. She may be going through an adjustment phase. Also, I hope you aren’t free feeding.
See General Guidelines for tips: http://www.homeovet.net/dynamic/php/downloads/dog-c8470f2c75dbe4b683205c3919ee2310/dog_diet_complete.pdf

[anonymously]

I don’t use dental chews for my pets. I brush their teeth once a day with chicken flavored toothpaste, they consider it a treat. (YouTube has excellent how to videos). I have had very good results.
I consider dental chews and water additives to be breath fresheners, at best. They do nothing to remove tarter from the back and sides.
I don’t use bones anymore either, due to the risk of broken teeth and GI disturbances I encountered.

PS: I like Petrodex 6.2 oz tube, Chewy.com has a good price. The trick is to brush at least once a day. Small breeds tend to have lousy teeth. The daily brushing will make a BIG difference. I don’t bother with chews, powders or any of that gobbledygook, it is the abrasive scrubbing motion that does the work, I even have one of my dogs used to a battery operated toothbrush which provides good brushing motion.
I add a splash of water to their food also, it helps to cleanse, a lot of dogs don’t drink enough water and small breeds are prone to bladder stones if they don’t consume enough.
.

[anonymously]

Dermatology – Common Issues

“Because only some dogs and cats develop ear infections, other conditions often contribute to the development of otitis externa and ear infections in your pet. Allergies, parasites, and masses or tumors can all cause ear irritation and infection. Allergies are the most common cause of ear infections in dogs and cats. Since an ear infection can be secondary to an underlying problem, it is often important to diagnose and treat the cause of the ear infection while treating the ear infection”.

[anonymously]

Dermatology – Common Issues

“Atopic dermatitis is a hypersensitivity or over-reaction to a variety of commonplace and otherwise harmless substances in the environment such as plant pollens, house dust mites or mold spores. Most pets with atopic dermatitis either inhale or absorb their allergens through their skin. Allergy tests are used to identify what a pet is allergic to in their environment”.

[anonymously]

Recent NYT article, slightly off topic but relevant to the discussion (imo)

http://www.msn.com/en-us/news/technology/the-big-search-to-find-out-where-dogs-come-from/ar-BBonuuj

“Scientists have come up with a broad picture of the origins of dogs. First off, researchers agree that they evolved from ancient wolves. Scientists once thought that some visionary hunter-gatherer nabbed a wolf puppy from its den one day and started raising tamer and tamer wolves, taking the first steps on the long road to leashes and flea collars. This is oversimplified, of course, but the essence of the idea is that people actively bred wolves to become dogs just the way they now breed dogs to be tiny or large, or to herd sheep.”

[anonymously]

You asked for opinions and that was what was provided.
Traditional veterinarians and homeopathic veterinarians tend not to agree on diet, treatment modalities, etc.
Both are businesses and charge for their services. I hope you are able to find a veterinarian that you trust to guide you with these decisions. Best of luck.

[anonymously]

Food sensitivities (food allergies are rare) usually result in GI disturbances, such as vomiting and diarrhea, not pruritus.

In my opinion, a visit to the vet is in order. There are a variety of things that could cause the symptoms you have described. Only a veterinarian that has examined your dog and has done some testing can diagnose.

Use the search engine here and look up “allergies” you may find some helpful information.

[anonymously]

http://www.homeovet.net/dynamic/php/downloads/dog-c8470f2c75dbe4b683205c3919ee2310/dog_diet_complete.pdf

Maybe this will help.

PS: Bones are risky. Once you have been to the emergency vet once or twice due to broken teeth, or GI blockages, you may change your mind about providing them for your pet.

BTW: A dog is not a wolf. http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2014/06/one-more-time-dogs-are-not-wolves/

[anonymously]

At least divide the kibble in half and store in a cool, dry place in a tightly closed container. It should be okay.

[anonymously]

Smaller bags, empty plastic coffee containers, in the freezer or fridg if you have room.
Divide the dry dog food up, use a 1 week supply at a time.

Yes, fish oil can go bad, keep in a cool dry place, but do not freeze. I just use a fish oil capsule per day for each dog, I nip the capsule with scissors and add it to the meal. I take the same stuff myself.

I don’t go near coconut oil, too fatty (imo). You might find some helpful information here: http://skeptvet.com/Blog/2015/04/coconut-oil-for-pets/

[anonymously]

What medication are you talking about? Frequent bathing at least once a week with a shampoo like Malaseb, unless your vet advises differently, might help.
My dog with environmental allergies and a sensitive stomach does well on Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea (dry and canned) as a base. Check Chewy.com for prices and delivery.

Check the search engine here for “allergies” you may find some helpful tips.

[anonymously]

I just wanted to add, make sure she is getting enough water, a lot of dogs don’t. I would add water to her meals, unless your vet advises different. Most dogs just lap up the water to get to the food. Adequate hydration is a good thing, especially for seniors and dogs that are prone to UTIs/bladder stones. And offer her frequent bathroom breaks, opportunities to urinate…at least every 4 hours.

[anonymously]

If it was my dog, I would not play with the diet right now. I would go by what the vet that has examined her recommends and try to keep her food on the bland side. I would stick with just one dog food that agrees with her (at least until she is stable).
I would also consider consulting a veterinarian that is an Internal Medicine Specialist (board certified).

[anonymously]

I have found that around 6 or 7 months old they are ready to go from 3 small meals to 2 regular meals per day…maybe a small snack midday after a walk as a reward for making sure I get my exercise 🙂

[anonymously]

Well, you only have to give it once every 4 to 6 weeks (depending on the area you live in and what your vet recommends).
Just put the pill in a bite of hamburger or something. Surely you can come up with a creative solution. Best of luck.

[anonymously]

I have used Royal Canin prescription foods a few times over the years (when prescribed by a veterinarian) with good results.

It is up to you, who do you choose to believe, a veterinarian that has examined your dog and made recommendations to the best of her ability and so far has been helpful….or anonymous strangers on the internet?

PS: I find this site helpful http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/nutrition/

[anonymously]

I think you worry too much 🙂
I use Sentinel, no problems noted. How do you know your dog doesn’t like it?

PS: I have used Heartgard in the past (without issues) but I had a dog that was in the herding breed family, so I switched.
I have used Spectrum products (Intercepter) too, but to tell the truth, I am happier using less chemicals whenever possible.

[anonymously]

“Many online pet pharmacies are reputable. Some, however, may be businesses breaking Federal, State, and sometimes, International laws. These illegal online pharmacies may sell medicines that are counterfeit, outdated, mislabeled, or incorrectly formulated. The medicines may not contain the actual drug or may contain incorrect amounts of drug. Some may not work as well if the product is old (expired) or has been stored in conditions that were too hot, cold, or humid. Others may not have the proper directions for use. If you are unhappy with the products you ordered, you may not be able to get your money back from an illegal online pharmacy”.

Excerpt from: http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/ResourcesforYou/AnimalHealthLiteracy/ucm203000.htm

[anonymously]

Just a thought, is he getting anti-nausea medication or antacids (prescribed by the vet)? He may still be a little nauseas…even though he is not vomiting.
Otherwise, you could mix the chicken in with whatever kibble the vet recommended, maybe that would help. Encourage the water, hydration helps to relieve nausea.

[anonymously]

I don’t trust online pharmacies, I know some folks order from Australia, Canada and such places, because often they don’t require a prescription. However, there is a lot of counterfeit stuff out there, also if the meds are not stored properly or exposed to extreme temperatures they could be ineffective.
Didn’t your vet recommend an alternative product?

[anonymously]

And always:
“It’s important to provide your dog with extra fluids and frequent opportunities to urinate in order to keep his urine from becoming supersaturated. Salt should not be added to increase fluid consumption for dogs with cystinuria; according to studies conducted on humans, a low-sodium diet may decrease the amount of cystine in the urine”.

Excerpt from http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjotherstones.html#cystine

[anonymously]

“We assumed the grain allergy. However with Cystine stones, he has a genetic defect and cannot process animal protein”.

Don’t assume anything regarding allergies. Unless the dog has been examined and tested by a board certified dermatologist. http://www.acvd.org/

The diets recommended for struvite or calcium oxalate bladder stones may not apply to your dog, the type of stones he has require a specific diet and treatment (like the one your vet recommended).

I would work closely with your veterinarian or find a veterinarian that specializes in Internal Medicine, do you have a veterinary hospital in your area? Your dog has a serious condition, this is not a DIY (imo)
http://www.caninecystinuria.com/Treatment.html http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjotherstones.html#cystine

PS: Have you tried the search engine at this site? Lots of information on “allergies” and “bladder stones”

[anonymously]

Just curious. What type of allergy testing has led you to believe that your dog is allergic to peas?
Have you consulted a specialist? Have you ruled out environmental allergies via Intra Dermal Testing?

PS: My dog with environmental allergies and a sensitive stomach, does well on Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea. She sees a specialist once a year and receives allergen specific immunotherapy with excellent results. She eats a variety of foods as toppers.
Allergies are a lifelong thing, expect flare-ups, they don’t just go away.

[anonymously]

I have small breed dogs, I like Sentinel for a heartworm preventative. I use K9 Advantix II
I use the lowest amount possible to be effective according to their weight.

How often? Whether you can skip winter months? These questions should be addressed to a veterinarian that has examined your dog and has evaluated the risks involved, depending on the area you live in, how much your dog is outdoors, the dog’s age and medical issues. For example, I give the Sentinel every 6 weeks (not in winter)
Advantix in summer months….check them every evening for ticks, bathe once a week.

[anonymously]

I prefer to get my canine’s medical advice from a science-based veterinary healthcare professional.

“There is no “Natural” or “Holistic” Heartworm Prevention or Treatment Proven to be Safe and Effective” posted on June 30,2013 by skeptvet

Much of complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) is offered either as an addition to conventional, science-based treatment or in situations in which conventional therapies are unavailable or ineffective. This doesn’t excuse offering treatments that haven’t been properly tested, and it … Continue reading →
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=heartworm

[anonymously]

Sounds good. Thanks for giving us an update.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by anonymously.

[anonymously]

Please! I hope no one takes this seriously. The alcohol probably altered the test results to show a false negative. Or, the original veterinarian prescribed treatment finally kicked in and was reflected in the blood work.
Consult a veterinarian ASAP if your pet is positive for heartworm.
Immediate aggressive treatment is needed to try to save the animal’s life.

“Primum non nocere”

[anonymously]

I have been using this product (dry and canned) for 4 years now for 3 dogs (2 with issues)
with good results.

Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea http://www.chewy.com/dog/dogswell-nutrisca-grain-free-salmon/dp/35033

Salmon, Menhaden Fish Meal, Peas, Chickpeas, Salmon Meal, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Sunflower Oil, Pea Fiber, Flaxseed, Calcium Carbonate, Salmon Oil (a source of DHA), Dicalcium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Dried Eggs, Natural Flavor, Tomato Pomace, Carrots, Cranberries, Apricots, Choline Chloride, Zinc Proteinate, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, Iron Proteinate, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Copper Proteinate, Manganese Proteinate, Folic Acid, Calcium Iodate, Cobalt Proteinate, Biotin, Selenium Yeast, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Rosemary Extract

PS: It looks like chewy carries the dog food you mentioned http://www.chewy.com/dog/victor-yukon-river-salmon-sweet/dp/120706

[anonymously]

How old is the dog? It would be best to work with a vet and go with the recommended prescription food (check chewy.com). At least until the dog is stable, then you can evaluate your options. Has the dog been treated for infection? If so, he may need another round of antibiotics or other prescription medications along with the special diet.
Of course add water to his meals and provide frequent bathroom breaks, keep the bladder flushed.
If you buy it in a larger bag, divide it up and keep half of it in a tightly closed container in the freezer or fridg.
Use the other half first, store in a tightly closed container in a cool place.

[anonymously]

If it was my dog I would take him to the vet ASAP. He may have a urinary tract infection which is extremely painful. It may wax and wane but without treatment prescribed by a veterinarian (antibiotics) it will not go away and will get worse and may result in more complications. The vet may also need to do an ultrasound besides a urine test and blood work to rule out bladder stones and properly diagnose your dog. Sounds like he may have allergies too. Often there are genetic factors involved, the food may have very little to do with it. Use the search engine here to look up bladder stones, and allergies.

PS: I would just go to the emergency vet, now. Today. Urinating blood is serious and requires immediate medical attention.

[anonymously]

I would go with the prescription diet recommended by the veterinarian who is treating your dog, at least till the dog is stable. Increase activity/walks, keep their weight down.
Nutrisca Salmon and Chickpea has no chicken in it (canned and dry)
I use dry as a base and add a tablespoon of wet or something as a topper.
I also add a little water to their meals and take them out frequently to void (pee) because I have been through the bladder stone experience with one of my dogs…..I would prefer not to go there again.
I feed twice a day (measured amounts), monitor meals, separate dishes, opposite sides of the room. Anything not consumed in 20 minutes is picked up and put away till the next meal.

See General Guidelines for tips: http://www.homeovet.net/dynamic/php/downloads/dog-c8470f2c75dbe4b683205c3919ee2310/dog_diet_complete.pdf

Also, try the search button here, you may find something helpful. /forums/search/pancreatitis/

PS: No cheese, ever (imo)

[anonymously]

I would go with a prescription food recommended by your veterinarian.

http://www.hillspet.com/products/pd-canine-hd-canine-cardiac-health-canned.html (sodium 0.07% per 13 oz can)

http://www.vetstreet.com/royal-canin-veterinary-diet-canine-early-cardiac-ec-22-dry#overview (sodium 0.5% per 1000 kcal)
If you soak the kibble in water in the fridg overnight it has the consistency of wet food.

PS: Wysong also makes a cardiac prescription food you may like.

You need to consider the serving size indicated when trying to evaluate the correct sodium amounts and such. For example: On a box of crackers it will state the sodium amount per serving. In tiny print it will say a serving size is 5 crackers!

[anonymously]

Have you tried chicken baby food, the small jars that look like a creamy pate? I had a dog that would lick it off my fingers, I think they like the salty taste. How about a little chopped up broiled chicken liver? I know dogs like a bite or two of rotisserie chicken?
I know those chickens are terrible, msg, and all. But, desperate times call for desperate measures.
Make sure you take care of yourself, I know how hard this is.
PS: She probably feels nauseous after she eats, then associates it with the food she’s eaten, then she won’t eat it again, thinking it will make her sick. See if she will at least drink water or chicken broth.

[anonymously]

Yes, and even more concerning than the cat feces, is the litter. If they consume it, and the feces is usually coated in it, they could develop a GI blockage.

[anonymously]

The cat litter box has to be in a place where the puppy can’t get to it, he will eat the feces at the first opportunity. Am I right? Cat people please jump in!
And, the puppy will soon be able to get onto the coffee table….

Believe me, you don’t want to go to the emergency vet if you don’t have to. You have to keep the puppy in a puppy proofed small gated room when you are out. Otherwise they chew everything and swallow foreign objects. The chewing goes on till they are at least a year old, they can’t be trusted till they are about 1 and 1/2 years old. It starts with the teething, they chew coffee table legs, door thresholds.
I don’t want to alarm you, but I have been through it a few times….
PS: This would be a good time to start brushing his teeth once a day, see YouTube for how to videos. Small breeds tend to have lousy teeth, by brushing you may be able to avoid professional cleanings for a while.

[anonymously]

Doggie gate? Be careful where you place the litter box. Dogs LOVE cat feces. They think it is caviar.

[anonymously]

Yes, cat food is bad for dogs. It can cause gastrointestinal upset, diarrhea and pancreatitis.
Remove the dog from the area and supervise the cat’s meals, allow about 20 minutes then pick up anything left, save for the next feeding. Same thing for the dog, keep the cat away from dog food. Just feed them twice a day.

[anonymously]

I don’t know, but I don’t think it has anything to do with the food.

Example: http://www.dog-health-guide.org/doglumpsonskin-1.html
“Dog lumps on skin (also called dog skin tumors) can have many causes such as an insect bite that results in an abscess where pus forms under the skin, lipomas (fatty tumors which are usually benign or not cancerous), skin tumors or cysts. Don’t rush to judgment and assume that a canine skin bump is cancerous, as many types are benign or not cancerous”.

Let us know what the vet says. Good luck

[anonymously]

Most dogs sleep a lot when left alone, and hopefully he will use the pee pads when he needs to. They adjust to a routine.
Work with the vet and try not to worry.

[anonymously]

Good luck, I hope he has a smooth recovery, don’t forget to ask the vet for pain meds, and use them!
I added a sentence to my previous post.
PS: Shop around for those pee pads, try Chewy, Petco…..
Don’t forget, leave fresh water in a couple of locations.

[anonymously]

No, but how about a few pee pads placed in one location? That might work, it’s best that dogs with a history of bladder stones don’t “hold it” too long.
Place a soiled one down, so that he get’s the idea. I don’t think dogs like litter boxes, they prefer a flat surface to eliminate on.

Don’t know if this would be an option, but could you have someone take him out in the middle of the day for a bathroom break? I know, it might be costly…..but maybe you have a retired friend or a family member that could do it.

[anonymously]

Ask your vet if a prescription med would be helpful, they are often used in stubborn cases.
I’m not talking about supplements or otc meds.
It would depend on the type of stones, of course, and requires a prescription from your dog’s vet. For example: Uroeze, Allopurinol…..

[anonymously]

Excerpts from previous posts:

As your vet will confirm, dogs that have a tendency to make bladder stones have to be on a special diet the rest of their lives, this is a serious condition and it just doesn’t go away.

I would comply with the prescription food for now.
And don’t forget, water, water, and more water added to the diet. Ask the vet ….but I believe this helps big time. And frequent bathroom breaks, opportunities to urinate.

“My dog had both (struvite and calcium oxalate), no symptoms till the age of 11, started with UTIs. He has had no recurrences in 4 years since his emergency surgery.
In fact, I just took him in for a geriatric workup and his lab work was good”.

“I was afraid the vet would want to do x-rays and test his urine…..but he said as long as he is not having symptoms we are not going there (he’s too old to tolerate another surgery)”
“I do monitor his urination habits and check for normal flow, stream, amount. If I note any discomfort I will take him to the vet”.

“There is a genetic component and some breeds are more prone to bladder stones.

“Anyway, if you do nothing else, add water and take her out to urinate frequently.
I went along with the prescription diet for almost a year, since then he has been on Nutrisca salmon and chickpea kibble soaked with water +, I use the wet food too”
PS: Soak the kibble, even the prescription food in water overnight in the fridg, add more water prior to serving. Keep the bladder flushed. Maybe add a little canned prescription food as a topper.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 4 months ago by anonymously.

[anonymously]

There is NO magic supplement. The trick is to add water to each meal 3-4 small meals per day soaked in water, don’t measure, just fill the small bowl, the dog will lap it up to get to the food.
The dog must be taken out to void (pee) ideally every 2 hours during the day. At bedtime and first thing in the morning. Stagnant conditions in the bladder are conducive to stone formation.
There is nothing wrong with Royal Canin Urinary SO. If you get the dry, soak it in water overnight then add water too. Once the dog is stable, few months to a year, you can talk to your vet about adding something tasty to the prescription food, like cooked chopped up chicken breast or some other lean meat.
Did you check the search engine here /forums/search/bladder+stones/
Read my posts, you may find some helpful tips
Some info at this site you may find helpful http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=bladder+stones

[anonymously]

excerpts from: http://www.2ndchance.info/Apoquel.htm
Food Allergies are probably over-diagnosed in dogs (they account for, perhaps 5-10%). Hypoallergenic diets are occasionally, but not frequently, helpful in canine atopy cases but you should always give them a try. Food intolerances are more common – but considerably more likely to result in digestive disturbances and diarrhea than in itching problems.

http://www.2ndchance.info/allergytesting.htm
Skin tests to determine what your pet might be allergic to are considerably more accurate, on the whole, than blood tests. However, they are not 100% accurate either. To have them performed, you will need to locate a board certified veterinary dermatologist
http://www.acvd.org/

[anonymously]

What type of allergy testing has the dog had? Intra Dermal Testing is the most accurate. By shots, the only shots I know of that work are Allergen Specific Immunotherapy.
It can take a while to see results, as much as a year, but it is wonderful when it works.

Maybe the vet that is treating him for hypothyroidism could recommend a
specialist/dermatologist. I would be very leary of any mail-in saiva or hair tests, I have heard that they are inaccurate
/forums/search/allergies/ via search engine, you may find some tips.

[anonymously]

Your dog has a unique situation, I would talk to your vet about what prescription medication would be helpful.

[anonymously]

Dog Food Logic: Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of Too Many Choices by Linda Case

This book looks like it might be helpful, it has received excellent reviews. I keep meaning to get myself a copy 🙂

[Author]

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