Search Results for 'who can read here'
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I am receiving error/blocked messages from CloudFare, following 2 posts to an OP (from another forum thread), saying Iāve been ārate limitedā and thereby temporarily ābannedā (!???) by the website owner.
I do not understand. What? Why? Huh?
Could Mike, a mod, or someone please explain or help?
Iāve been a member posting here for years.
Typing this from my IPhone ā still canāt post otherwise, though I wanted to continue to engage with the community here re the DCM-legumes/Potatoes BEG FDA issue.
Thanks.
Hey all,
Has anyone ever tried or looked into free-feeding supplements to their pooch that’s on a homemade or raw diet? I’m interested in if this has been done before or if there is a specific reason that it is /not/ done. It’s (at least as far as I am aware) standard practice for livestock and horses, and most dogs/cats will already self-regulate to a certain extent with behaviors such as grass-eating.Background:
After struggling for two years with my 8lb mix’s allergies I’m committing to an elimination diet and, since that will be a long process of me making his meals, am also looking into proper balancing of homemade and raw meals. I don’t want to go a pre-made/balanced route because, at least for the first few months, they would defeat the point of the diet. I understand the concepts of balancing the diet as a whole, took animal nutrition in college, and am confident that I can create a menu that serves him well. However, I also understand how and why the AAFCO standards exist and I like the concept of him having access to additional supplements should he need them without me risking over-dosing him by providing a daily vitamin along with a diet that is well-balanced.Thanks in advance for any input!
(X-posted in the supplements forum)
Topic: Free Feeding Supplements?
Hey all,
Has anyone ever tried or looked into free-feeding supplements to their pooch that’s on a homemade or raw diet? I’m interested in if this has been done before or if there is a specific reason that it is /not/ done. It’s (at least as far as I am aware) standard practice for livestock and horses, and most dogs/cats will already self-regulate to a certain extent with behaviors such as grass-eating.Background:
After struggling for two years with my 8lb mix’s allergies I’m committing to an elimination diet and, since that will be a long process of me making his meals, am also looking into proper balancing of homemade and raw meals. I don’t want to go a pre-made/balanced route because, at least for the first few months, they would defeat the point of the diet. I understand the concepts of balancing the diet as a whole, took animal nutrition in college, and am confident that I can create a menu that serves him well. However, I also understand how and why the AAFCO standards exist and I like the concept of him having access to additional supplements should he need them without me risking over-dosing him by providing a daily vitamin along with a diet that is well-balanced.Thanks in advance for any input!
Topic: Help (Duplicate Topic #9)
Dr Martys NATUREāS BLEND
Any one know of it and have any good or bad thoughts about it?
I have a small dog a bichon weight of around 14/15 pound he is about 8 now.
I have been feeding for morning a tablespoon of fruit yogurt with probiotic powder mixed in. (He was getting 1/2 cup of cheerios but am no longer doing that due to the pesticides in them)
Then at night 1/2 cup of mixed ORIJEN Dry Dog Food, Six Fish, and Acana Meadowlands Dry Dog .
He also gets a lot of table veggies and fruits. He eats what ever I am having for fruit and veggies. So if I have bruss sprouts he gets them that night, If I have salad he will get tomato and cucumber. If I am eating an apple he will have some a well.
He is a good begger.
I have seen the lawsuit info on champion pet foods. I have read about the grain free is bad now. I also know neither ORIJEN or Acana have ever had a recall and it seems like every other brand has. (He eats this out of a a tug-a-jug to slow him down and keep him busy for a half hour)
I am at a total loss of if I am doing good or bad by my dog.
I can not go raw, and I do not have the time to cook for him daily. So I have to have either a freeze dried, kibble, or can I can take with me.
I care for 3 elderly people all in different places and the dog comes with me so I have to have something I can easily toss in a bag and go as I never know where I am going to be.
I did post something a few weeks back and got jumped on about giving him his tablespoon of fruit yogurt because of sugar. I always read fruit was good for dogs and he will not eat plain yogurt. So it seems even when I think I am doing good by him I am not.
So I really need some advice.
canineCanine heartworm disease is transmitted by infected mosquitoes.
In the worst case scenario, it results in a fatal worm infestation in the heart and blood vessels of an infected dog.
Fortunately, heartworm disease can be prevented. It can also be successfully treated when caught in time.
The American Heartworm Society (AHS), an organization that studies the disease, its treatment and prevention, recommends yearly heartworm testing for all dogs. The AHS also recommends year-round chemical preventives for every dog over the age of eight weeks, regardless of where the dog lives.
Dr. Becker’s Comments:
The American Heartworm Society has three “platinum” sponsors and five “bronze” sponsors. All eight are major pharmaceutical manufacturers.It comes as no surprise, then, that the AHS recommends year-round, birth-to-death heartworm prevention drugs ā no matter where you live, the time of year, the age of your dog, his size or health status.
What’s Wrong with This Picture?
Three things, specifically:Huge conflict of interest potential. Heartworm prevention through the overuse of potentially toxic medications sold by pharmaceutical giants like Bayer Healthcare, Merial and Pfizer, is a virtual money machine for drug manufacturers, online retailers, testing laboratories, veterinarians and any other entity that can find a way to cash in.
When there’s money on the table ā in this case billions of dollars ā your pet’s health and quality of life can quickly become a secondary concern.
Note also that the ASH recommendation for year-round dosing is not because your pet needs it year-round in every state, but because it’s assumed dog owners will forget to re-start the medication when the weather warms up.
And by the way ā heartworm “preventives” don’t actually prevent your pet from getting worms. What they do is poison the larvae at the microfilaria (L1-L2) stage of development, causing them to die.
Relatively low actual incidence of life-threatening infection. Heartworm disease is more difficult to acquire ā and less lethal ā than the dire warnings and marketing claims for chemical preventives would have you believe.
In order for heartworm disease to take hold, a precise sequence of events must occur involving the right climate, the right temperature for the right amount of time, the right species and sex of mosquito, and your dog’s less-than-optimal immune system function.
This information is not intended to minimize the need to protect your dog, but only to point out the actual potential for heartworm disease is less than you’ve been led to believe by financially-motivated marketing campaigns designed to scare pet owners into buying 12 doses of preventive, year in and year out, regardless of where you live!
The existence of less toxic recommendations. There are less harmful protocols to prevent heartworm in your dog than a lifetime of once-monthly, year-round doses of toxic drugs.
How Heartworm Disease Happens
Heartworms are a variety of roundworm with the clinical name dirofilaria immitis. They are spread by mosquitoes.Dogs can only get heartworm disease through infected mosquitoes. They can’t get it from other dogs or other types of animals, from dog feces, or from their mothers while in the womb or through nursing.
Only certain mosquitoes can transmit heartworm to your dog. These mosquitoes must meet certain precise criteria, including:
They must be female.
They must be of a species that allows development of the worms in the cells of the body (not all species do).
They must be of a species that feeds on mammals (not all do).
They must have bitten an animal infected with stage 1 (L1) heartworms about two weeks prior, since approximately 14 days are necessary for the larvae from the other animal to develop to stage 3 (L3) inside the transmitting mosquito.
This mosquito must then bite your dog. When the larvae reach stage L4-L5, which takes three to four months, under
the right conditions they can travel via your dog’s bloodstream to the lungs and heart.If your dog’s immune system doesn’t destroy these invaders, they will reach maturity (L6), the adult stage, in which males can grow to six inches in length and females to 12.
Two other critically important features in the transmission of heartworm are:
The right temperature. During the time the heartworm larvae are developing from L1 to L3 inside an infected mosquito, which is approximately a two-week period, the temperature must not dip below 57°F at any point in time. If it does, the maturation cycle is halted. According to Washington State University heartworm report from 2006, full development of the larvae requires “the equivalent of a steady 24-hour daily temperature in excess of 64°F (18°C) for approximately one month.”
Humidity and standing water. Mosquitoes are a rarity in dry climates.
As you can see, in order for your dog to develop heartworm disease, a number of things have to happen with near-perfect timing under a precise set of circumstances.Information on how many cases of canine heartworm disease occur each year in the U.S. is scarce. The AHS provides a heartworm incidence map for the years 2001, 2004 and 2007 which you might find helpful. Keep in mind it is a very general guideline and shouldn’t be viewed as the only decision-making tool at your disposal.
Assessing Your Dog’s Risk
There are only a few areas in the U.S. in which giving a nine month to year-round heartworm preventive might be advisable ā those areas are in south Texas, south Florida, and a few other locations along the Gulf coast. The rest of the U.S. ranges from three to seven months of high exposure risk. The majority of states are at six months or less.Given that heartworm preventives are insecticides designed to kill heartworm larvae inside your animal, and therefore have the potential for short and long-term side effects damaging to your pet’s health, the first bit of information you need is your dog’s actual risk of exposure to infected mosquitoes.
Topic: CHEERIOS ALTERNATIVE ADVICE
I feed a grain free Orijen dry dog food for the past 8 years and give table food bites here and there. (My bichon will go nuts for a cherry tomato, cucumber, brussels sprouts, egg, or cooked spinach. )
For breakfast he has 1/4 of a chobani fruit yogurt with a canine pro biotic powder mixed in. (He will not eat the plain)
Everything was fine until last Thanksgiving when he got into the trash and ate his fill of Turkey skin. He develops pancreatitis and for weeks was on meds and boiled hamburger and white rice. Along with IVās daily to keep him hydrated.
(No more Turkey on holidays at my house.)After I got him well and back on his regular food (and that took well over a month transitioning back) he started to have 1 good normal poop in the morning and then a second gelatinous poop in the late afternoon. (he was always a 2 poop a day boy)
Told the vet she suggested adding some cheerios to his breakfast. I did and the problem was fixed.
Now my dilemma I just saw all the news and articles about the oat drying process and how they use RoundUp for it so most oat cereals and breakfast products have high amounts GLYPHOSATE in them and we know that causing cancer. The biggest offender on the list with very high amounts of GLYPHOSATE in it is cheerios.
Needless to say my baby will not be getting them any more with his yogurt.
Dose anyone have a suggestion what I can give him as a cheerio alternative that will be safe, and I do not mind cooking it myself as long as I can make it in bulk and freeze.
I take care of 3 elderly parents with a lot of health problems so I have to be able to through in a dish and run a lot of times.
Thank you for reading and any help any one can suggest.
Topic: CHEERIOS ALTERNATIVE HELP
I feed a grain free dry dog food for the past 8 years and give table food bites here and there. (My bichon will go nuts for a cherry tomato, cucumber, brussels sprouts, egg, or cooked spinach. )
For breakfast he has 1/4 of a chobani fruit yogurt with a canine pro biotic powder mixed in. (He will not eat the plain)
Everything was fine until last Thanksgiving when he got into the trash and ate his fill of Turkey skin. He develops pancreatitis and for weeks was on meds and boiled hamburger and white rice.
After I got him back on his regular food he his first poop of the day was normal but the second was poop was gelatinous (mucus covered). Told the vet she adding some cheerios to his breakfast. I did and the problem was fixed.
Now my dilemma I just saw all the news and articles about the oat drying process and how they use RoundUp for it so most oat cereals and breakfast products have high amounts GLYPHOSATE in them and we know that causing cancer The biggest offender on the list with very high amounts of GLYPHOSATE in it is cheerios.
Needless to say my baby will not be getting them any more with his yogurt.
Dose anyone have a suggestion what I can give him as a cheerio alternative that will be safe, and I do not mind cooking it myself as long as I can make it in bulk and freeze.
Thank you for reading and any help.
I know that like human food, pet food should not be left out for free feeding; Especially in hot weather
My dogs pretty much eat all they’re going to eat within a few minutes. My cat, however, isn’t interested in wet food. He’ll eat a few bites, wander around and sometimes goes back for a nibble. Eventually, he turns his nose up at the food and seeks out my other cat’s dry food.
For the past 4 months or so, a feral cat has wandered around my backyard. I lured him close (he bolts the minute he hears me or the dogs near the back door) by leaving him some food on my deck so I could determine if he has a tipped ear. Then I felt bad for him, because it was winter in the northeast US and I felt leaving him a meal at night was the least I could do to help.
The thing is…I’ve read through forums and sites regarding strays and ferals that the feeders usually go out in the morning and around dusk to feed colonies. It’s like the cats are on schedule, which is the way it should be since they feed the cats and then clean up the mess afterwards. However, my wanderer visits at random hours of the night. Sometimes as early as 11PM and sometimes as late as 4AM and sometimes he returns a few times in between. And sometimes he doesn’t show up at all and I waste a can of food.
Since it’s been relatively cool weather wise, I wasn’t as concerned with the food spoiling. But now that summer may actually make an appearance, I know it’s not safe to leave food out all night. I have only seen this cat during the day twice: once when we jumped over the fence into my yard one morning (and in front of my dog who chased him back over) and another time where my dogs trapped him under my shed (once I called them inside, he took off). But I have a camera in my yard and he hasn’t visited during the day at any other times.
I’m trying to determine if he’s someone’s cat that they let out at night to hunt and wander or if he’s a stray that lives in a colony. I asked people in a FB feral community in my area if anyone knew of a known colony in my town. They won’t tell me because I may be asking for nefarious reasons. But this cat is so random. I don’t mind feeding him if he truly lives outdoors, but I don’t want to bother if he’s some irresponsible person’s pet.
The cat didn’t show the other day and a opossum showed up instead and ate the food. And he came early last night and I didn’t notice and did not return after I set out the food and my camera caught a blue jay eating the food this morning. I don’t want to run the risk of any animal eating food left in hot weather for any length of time. Does anyone have suggestions to get this cat to come earlier if it is a feral?
Topic: New to raw feeding
Hi, I don’t have a dog yet but I may be adopting one this summer. I’ve recently learned about raw feeding and I think it’s much better than feeding kibble, but I do have a few questions.
Which is cheaper? Commercial or homemade?
I live near My Pet Carnivore and was thinking of ordering their food. Will I need to add supplements for their whole grounds?
How do I prevent bacteria from the raw meat spreading when the dog runs around the house? I live with the elderly and young children.
There seems to be no vet near me that supports raw feeding, I’ve emailed them and they all say it’s nutritionally imbalanced and I should not be doing it. How do I convince them otherwise?
I don’t have a local co-op but my friend is thinking of doing raw as well, can we make a mini co-op together?Thanks.
Hi, I’m just getting started in researching dog food. I’ve been fostering my current pup, Grayson, for about a year. He has seizures about once a week and is on keppra, phenobarbital and hemp. I’m currently doing research and looking for support because he is dealing with substantial allergies and I’m highly suspecting it’s food allergies. He has a lot of itching, chews at his feet and has bald spots and scabbing around his hips, hind legs and groin area. He has been an itchy dog pretty much entire time I’ve had him but the scabbing is by far the worst it’s ever been.
He was put on a steroid for a couple weeks which really helped, but had it’s own side effects. The last 2 dog foods we’ve had are American Journey Grain Free Salmon and Sweet Potato and True Acre Foods Chicken and Vegetable Grain Free. He was mostly eating True Acre when the symptoms got bad, but then switched to American Journey and symptoms continued to progress. Both foods have chicken as a main ingredient and therefore I’m thinking he’s reacting to chicken. As of 2 days ago, I switched him to a Heritage Ranch Salmon and Sweet Potato Food only because it was the only dog food at my store which didn’t have chicken as a main ingredient.
So, I’m currently l’m looking into switching him to a different simple ingredient dog food. Canidae salmon and sweet potato is the one I’m leaning towards, but I’m also researching doing a raw diet.
I’m sure there’s several posts on this site which have helpful info, but wanted to introduce myself and I’ll start searching around to see what others have already posted.Thank you,
Grandpa J