[InkedMarie]

September,
Senior dogs need a good higher protein food. Most senior foods are way too low in protein, the exception being Orijen senior.
I have had many senior dogs, three of which came to me already old. One was obese on arrival so she got a lower fat food but the other two just got good food. I supplement with green lipped mussel for joints and any other issues.

[C4D]

Hi September D,

I’ve owned a lot of dogs over the years. I’ve never fed a senior dog food to them. Senior dog food is really just a marketing ploy. My large breed dogs live well over their expiration date. The most important thing is to watch that they don’t gain too much weight, get exercise on a daily basis, and address any health issues they might have as they age or due to injuries they have sustained. I also get yearly checkups and do blood panels on a regular basis. That let’s you know if there are any issues that might need addressing. My vet once said to walk my dogs for as long as they could walk. I’ve always done that. I’m not saying this is a miracle cure, but dogs need exercise and they need a job. That’s their job and they love it. I have a senior right now, 11 yo Lab along with other older adult dogs, but if you didn’t know her age, you wouldn’t think she was that old. She has bad knees too, but she walks briskly almost 2 miles daily and runs the yard after everything she sees. She does get supplements (fish oil, joint care) and I am very careful about her diet to keep her lean. I also feed her a combination of kibble, canned and fresh/raw food daily. So, I’ll get off my soap box now. Best of luck with your pup!

[Jenn H]

Wendyz I had replied this morning, but am just noticing that I must not have hit “submit”. Therefore I apologize for the delay.

I will say that after about 20 GSDs in 35+ yrs only 1 of them had pano. That was when I was a teenager. Therefore I had no control on what the dogs were fed. I just fed them according to parents’ instruction. At that time Pedigree, Purina, Blue Seal, etc were considered great food. Canned was to be used very rarely and only to give pills or extra during very cold times.
That dog grew very big very quickly. At 2 he was heading toward 100#s. Since he died suddenly at 2.5 from torsion we’ll never know what he would’ve topped out at.

With the exception of a couple of dogs I have adopted as adults, none of the 20ish dogs I’ve had have gotten hip/elbow dysplasia, OCD, arthritis, etc. With the proper diet, exercise & supplements the arthritic dogs became noticeably better. (Supplements are a whole other conversation.)

I worry about my pup because I have no idea what his father is like. His mother was a “midnight rescue”. She is 90+ lbs. His confirmation isn’t ideal. Angulated hips, roach back. Since switching him tho he has developed more muscle tone which I think has gotten him to stop walking on his hocks and has a better coat. He is also more satisfied after meals despite being fed much less amt.

It appears that quality of the proteins is more important than the quantity. Stay away from plant based. Go for meats/fish/eggs as a source. Higher biological value. Protein is important to build muscle.

You also want to control the rate of growth. GSDs can grow until they’re 3 y/o. My boy has steadily gained 2 #s/wk his whole life. Once in a while he doesn’t gain anything, but will gain 3#s the next wk.

It’s perfectly fine to give joint supplements at 6 months. Right now he gets 1.5 tabs Cosequin DS (the kind WITHOUT vitamins & minerals).

Make sure that if fish is in the food it is NOT preserved by the supplier or manufacturer with Ethoxyquin. Solid Gold & their suppliers do not use that.

If you want to have more control over proteins The Honest Kitchen may be a good choice. Even if you only feed 1 meal/day or a few meala/wk. When I contacted them regarding the puppy they suggested this:
4-6 mon Thrive
After 6 months transition/rotate with Embark, Love, Revel, Brave (that’s a LID of fish).
They make human grade dehydrated base mixes. You add the protein yourself. They include the suggested amts, but really it’s up to you.

I like to keep my puppies on the leaner side while they grow. A roly poly puppy is cute, but not ideal. I find 22-25% protein to be a good amt. But I care more about what type and the calcium.

Other LBP foods on my short list are:
*Orijen LBP/Acana
*Fromm LBP Gold although I’m hesitant to try it since a lot of people are complaining their dogs are getting sick from their gold line.
*Solid Gold Hundchen Flocken Lamb & Rice. I used it when I couldn’t find Wolf Cub

Just an aside…I appreciate that you asked for my advice and am very happy to help. I am not a vet or a nutritionist. All I have is experience. Dogfoodie, Pitlove, Houndmom (I’m pretty sure that’s her name) are about the only 3 people who seem to be as conscientious as I and have offered some valuable & helpful advice. They are very good sources to reach out to also. I know there are some significant differences between GSDs and other large breeds, but there’s more similarities when it come to prevention of musculoskeleton problems.

Another aside is that I think I may switch my Lab mix to Solid Gold Barking at the Moon. I can let you know how that goes.

Good luck with the pup. I’m sure he’ll be just fine. I doubt that bout of pano will be a problem. You understand that calcium should not exceed 1.5% and the calcium/ phosphorus ratio should be around 1:1-2:1.

If I think of anything I may have forgotten I’ll let you know.

[crazy4cats]

Hi AK-
Here is an article that is found on the review side of this website. It explains how it is best to keep calcium under a certain percentage to help prevent joint problems such as, hip and elbow dysplasia: /best-dog-foods/best-large-breed-puppy-food/
There is a calculator on the link helping you decipher whether a food is appropriate or not. Also states, that while not as precise, you can generally look for a food that has .9% to 1.35% calcium. I would be more concerned about that percentage than how many stars a food has at this stage of the puppies life. At least for a few more months until she is fully grown.
Pitlove and Frank have given you a few good options. Good luck with your choice. I know it is confusing, but you are on the right track!

[crazy4cats]

Hi A K-
Like others have said, Nature’s Variety is a very good brand. I have tried a few different varieties and flavors and my dogs have not done well on any. So, it’s hard to say how your dog will do until you give it a try. As long as it does not contain any of the ingredients that are causing your pup trouble, then it may be fine.
I prefer to use a more budget friendly, simple kibble and add fresher less processed ingredients to it such as eggs, sardines, canned, lean leftovers, and/or commercial raw.
Also, at only 10 months old, I’d still be concerned about the calcium levels in the food since she is a large breed pup and need to be aware of potential joint issues.
I hope you find a good fit for her!

[Sally S]

It is true that puppy Danes who have high protein diets are prone to HOD (Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy) – a painful swelling of the joints during development, it is an infection brought on in most cases by high protein diets. The protein collects in the joints and cannot leave the body fast enough and causes infections. I do Great Dane rescue and we come across this a lot – at least 50% of the puppies that are surrendered have HOD due to high protein, cheap diets. (not all high protein is cheap mind you – just in this case that typically is the cause – like “Old Roy”). It is treatable but for Great Dane puppies and other giant breeds this is a huge no no. My own dog had HOD as a result of this, we have a dog that has gone Septic because of HOD being untreated, it is not anything to mess with. Adult Danes I believe can be more tolerant but it is documented, researched and validated in puppies under 10 months where growth plates have not closed.

[Crow M]

Congratulations on your new family member!

I went through the same ordeal last year with a very elderly and underweight rescue; how to put on weight safely, finding the balance between feeding him enough but not too much, so that his weight gain wasn’t too quick and his system wasn’t overwhelmed with too many fats.

I second the advice above – if at all possible, feed him 3 or 4 small meals a day instead of 1 or 2 big ones. I fed a good-quality puppy food mixed with a good-quality adult food* starting with a 3:1 ratio. As he came close to his target weight, I gradually changed the ratio to 2:2, then 1:3, and then finally all adult food.

Supplements: don’t over-do it. I’d give him probiotics and maybe a joint med, but really, good food is going to wonders all by itself.

*Earthborn Holistics Puppy Vantage, Earthborn Holistics Great Plains Feast, Earthborn Holistics Large Breed (all dry); Wellness Complete/Core Puppy, Wellness Complete Senior and Canidae Large Breed (all canned). I mix up what I feed my dogs; variety is a good thing.

[Gwen J]

What right, inkedmarie, do you have to be so condescending, self-righteous and critical? And how dare you imply that my friend is irresponsible! I’m happy that *you* are in a financial position to be able to feed *your* dogs high dollar food. Not all of us are blessed with money. But then again, money isn’t everything.

Apparently you didn’t read all of my post. This is part of what I said – ‘All of her dogs are healthy, have beautiful coats, bright eyes, great dispositions and live to be 12 to 15 years old. Rarely do her dogs have any health issues.’ In addition to this, her dogs have good bowel habits, all are of good weight, and there are no problems with skin, ears or joints. Is there anything else you would like to criticize her about?

One more thing, inkedmarie, I would be HAPPY to send you pictures of my friends dogs. And vet records too.

[InkedMarie]

Unfortunately, we can’t see whats inside our dogs. I’ve heard of people who say their dogs are healthy but they have bad skin, ear infections, overweight/underweight, joint issues, constipation/diarrhea etc. To me, thats not healthy. I don’t know what your friends dogs look like.

For me, I can’t feed a below average food. I just can’t. *I* chose to get my dogs. That means that *I* have a responsibility to them, which includes keeping them as healthy as possible. That means I take great care to choose high quality foods, with an ingredient panel I like, from a company I trust. Maybe mine would be fine on below average food but I’m not going to test the theory.

[MAUREEN W]

I just rescued a little 8lb Shih tzu Bichon who is 6 years old. She was having so many problems & I needed to get her help & surgery right away. tests shown she had several bladder stones & some much larger than others so surgery was her only option after meds not helping. She is now a VERY HAPPY fun little girl & loving live after getting the care needed.
However results just came back from the stones being Struvite & vet wants to put her on Royal Canine SO.!! Im not going to do that, Ive seen so many clients dogs on this crap & there is noting good in it. I feed all my dogs good quality food & believe doing that will help her more than anything.
Ive been giving her canned food since I rescued her & some boiled chicken with the broth & even veg & I do add a probiotic powder to her food. What are the best veg for her & what do i stay away from. I also bought a powder called Methionine by Dogzymes where i buy my pet probiotics from along with joint supplements. It says regulates the formation of amonia & creates amonia free urine which reduces bladder irritation. I also add fish oil to dogs diet each day. Should I add a cranberry supplement too & what is best kind. I want to do what is best for the little girl but I know that is not Royal Canine food. Any help would be great. Im also going to order PH strips too. I have water supply in every room for her & even bought her a fountain to help her drink more. I have 2 giant dogs so used to them drinking gallons of water, this tiny girl, I dont know what amount she should drink & what to to to make her drink more. She gets Plenty of potty breaks & I put her potty pads down if i need to be gone so she knows it ok to go on them & not hold it. (she uses them too) 🙂
Any help would be greatful, I dont want this little girl to suffer again the way she was when I took her in to get her surgery & help she needed.
Thanks so much. Mo

[LadyJane]

We switched to the ‘soft’ Greenies for hips and joints. One a day and it is just like the commercial. Jumping and happy! They may not be for every dog, so find what works for you and your dog.

[weezerweeks]

Has anyone ever used these? If so your opinion.

[Pitlove]

Hi Karen- Personally I disagree with Anonymously on that advice. While its nice that foods contain glucosamine and chondroitin, they don’t contain a theraputic amount. Especially if you have a senior dog that is showing signs of stiff joints. The only time I’ve ever heard of additional supplements causing any of the problems that Anonymously mentioned is when they were overfed. You can certainly still double check with your vet, but most of these supplements are safe to feed along with a food that contains glucosamine and chondroitin.

[Karen D]

Thanks to this forum I am happy with this new food & so is Pnut, no more messy poops, I noticed this food contains Glucosamine & Chondroitin, should I stop giving her the chewable joint supplements or cut back?
Thanks,
Karen

[Ryan Y]

So I’m super worried about giving too much or too little.

We do an occasional veggie mix of blended greens, carrots, and bananas. Just whatever seems fun I guess.

Liver occasionally. Gizzards occasionally.

The supplements I use are salmon oil, Pet Kelp Joint and Bone formula, and Nature’s Logic all food fortifier. Today was the first time I’ve used both together.

I’ll give eggs and the shell occasionally. And just even got a bone meal powder supplement. bone occasionally. My dog has a chipped tooth…so yeah. Totally different topic there. Yes she’s seen a vet lol

I guess what I’m asking, is if anyone knows I’m doing too much or too little of a certain nutrient.

Natures logic says if I do the usual 80/10/10 split it should do the rest and make everything “complete”

Does anyone have anything else to recommend to make things “complete” other than like the Honest Kitchen haha

Here is a link to Nature’s Logic

And here’s Pet Kelp

[Jenn H]

Olga is right on to suggest Nupro Joint & Immunity Support. Love that stuff. Since I have GSD I feed it about 1/2 hr before meals. It’s a whole digestive system/absorption thing with GSDs and flax.
Great results with that product.

[Olga M]

Since my buddies are big, and in the interest of time, I make a big pot of food and freeze it in daily portions. when I serve them, I include whatever fresh veggies I am having that day as well. I’ll give you a list of some of the ingredients that I use.

For protein – lentils, chickpeas, and black or red beans.
Grains – quinoa, whole oats, brown rice, and barley. However, I don’t add them all the time.
Veggies – pumpkin, sweet potato, carrot, zucchini, squash, peas, green beans, kelp, kale, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower.
Fruits – apple, blueberries, coconut, mango and watermelon.
Herbs – lemongrass (my dogs will graze on it), oregano, turmeric and parsley.
Oils – Coconut, safflower, flax
Supplements – Nupro joint and immunity support, Nutritional yeast, Green Mush (Green Mush and kelp is supposed to be easily absorbable and contains thousands of phytonutrients, protein, and amino acids), L-Canitine, food grade diatomaceous earth, and digestive enzymes (prebiotics and probiotics)

I cook in a big pot of water whatever beans I am using. I use lentils a lot because they love them. If I am using a grain, I’ll add it also. Once they are soft, I add the chopped harder vegetables like the pumpkin, sweet potato, etc. Once they are softened, I add the shredded softer vegetables, e.g., zucchini, kelp, yellow squash, peas, peeled apples, etc. I cook that for a few minutes, then take the pot off the stove and add the chopped leafy greens, 1 clove of finely minced garlic, oregano, lemongrass, and turmeric. I have a garden, so the herbs and many of the vegetables are fresh picked.

I cool down the food by adding ice before adding the oils and supplements.
I add coconut, safflower and flax oil; some Nupro, nutritional yeast, diatomaceous earth, and green mush. The digestive enzymes I sprinkle on their food when I serve them. Occasionally, I’ll ad a capsule of L-Carnitine in their bowl when I serve their food.

I make enough for at least 6 days, and most of the things they eat (except for the Nupro), I also eat. They devour the veggie stew I make, although the Mastiff will eat anything that is not tied down. LOL

It is my belief that eating the carcass of an animal that has been tortured in captivity their entire life, is not healthy for anyone. Also, the food you make will be healthier than any packaged food, and you can always start by adding some of your food to the kibble. Remember though, that if you are giving them soft food to give them things to chew to keep their pearly whites in good shape. Mine love biscuits, balls, toys, antlers, tug ropes, etc.

Thanks for asking about vegetarian food for dogs, I was beginning to think that I had grown a third eye.

[Elizabeht B]

My dog passed about a month ago, but fish oil is very good for their joints and I had given him that as well. I wish I had started that earlier. Make sure you get a good quality – I was buying a Norwegian brand for him. Hills is expensive but a very good quality food. My guy had some digestive issues and the I/d controlled that really well. People say bad things about purina, too, but I found the Brite mind to be a good food. He liked it too. I think unfortunately people tend to misassociate actual true data with irrelevant and coincidental data which just muddies the water – everyone is an expert any more. Good luck with your dog !!

[Sam D]

Hi, All –
My sweet pup has been diagnosed with severe left hip dysplasia and mild right hip dysplasia. We passed on the option for a triple pelvic osteotomy as when he was diagnosed we had about 2 weeks until he was considered too old for it, and even then, they would have only done it on his right hip as the left was too far gone.

We’ve opted for rehab and medical intervention over surgical at this time, knowing that in the future, he will have to have a total hip replacement. Hopefully we can put that off for a few more years.

My question is about food. He currently gets a rotation of Instinct Raw, Acana Pacifica (salmon) and Honest Kitchen. We are giving him supplements like Welactin fish oil and Dasuquin (glucosamine chondroitin w/ MSM)

Anyone here have a dog with hip/joint issues? What have you used? What has helped?

[crazy4cats]

Hi Bethany-
I regularly feed my male golden labs Victor kibble. I have fed both the grain free joint health and the healthy weight formula. I think it is one of the best values you can buy. And…my dogs breath do not stink! I also rotate with Whole Earth Farms kibble with various toppers.

My dogs had a rough start due to multiple bouts of giardia and coccidia and have sensitive stomachs now. They do well with these foods. I have used Perfect Form, Gastriplex and Vetri-Pro BD supplements to help heal their tummies.

I’m sure glad you are rescuing that poor pup. Good luck!

• This reply was modified 10 years, 5 months ago by crazy4cats.

[Eugene G]

i adopted a 3 year old mastiff from an acquaintance. he was on raw diet and i continued it. The previous owner was feeding him 2.5 lbs. he was and i still am getting food from Armalinosk9. its human grade meet 70% meet 30% ground bones. i get chicken, beef and duck from them. i also add chicken feet, turkey necks, beef liver, chicken hearts and once in a while i add veggies and fruits ( 1/2 frozen apples grinded, sometimes i add a little of my veggie/fruit shakes(no grapes), a little cauliflower or a little carrots grinded, bananas etc). i also add a spoon of organic coconut butter every few days and also add “Natural Hip & Joint Supplement for Dogs with Organic Turmeric, Glucosamine, Chondroitin, and MSM – 90 Count Chewable ” that i purchase on amazon as it was what previous owner did.
my boy is healthy and i experienced no problems with him for last 5 month.
i am wondering if there is anything missing in his diet. don’t want to neglect an important ingredient or end up with vitamin deficient dog. i appreciate your input.

[InkedMarie]

DogAware dot com has info on homemade. I don’t have the time or inclination to homecook. I feed ground raw (has meat, bone, organs & most have tripe). Can’t get any easier: put bowl on scale; tare it. Scoop food in. Add salmon oil (plus joint supps for one), eggs 3x weekly aand feed.

[Pitlove]

I don’t like most formula’s that are marketed for senior dogs, same as Marie said. They don’t usually meet the protein requirements for senior dogs. I do agree that Orijen Senior is probably the best one out there.

I usually recommend an all life stages food for customers at my job with senior dogs. One with high protein as well. I’d look for an all life stages food that comes in over 30% protein with the first three ingredients being whole meats and meat meals to unsure the protein is coming from animals and not plants. Some foods will have glucosimine and chondroitin in them, which is something else you can look for. Otherwise I’d suggest a supplement like NaturVet Arthrisoothe GOLD, which has Boswellia in it that is suppose to be really good for arthritic dogs.

http://www.chewy.com/dog/naturvet-arthrisoothe-gold-hip-joint/dp/48764

[InkedMarie]

I have no experience with large breed dogs, I don’t know if they need anything special as adults. Senior dogs need a high quality higher protein food. Outside of Orijen senior, I think the rest of the senior foods are too low in protein. With an arthritic dog, I’d find a food without grains & potato as they can be inflammatory.

Is she getting joint supplements? Look into making Golden Paste for her. A large breed dog should be kept lean as opposed to too heavy; can you share a picture of her?

[Jenn H]

Thanks for the suggestions. I may try to add oils. I’ve been told that can deplete Vit E (in GSDs anyway) so I’ll have to research that a bit more.
I’ve looked into adding meats, but they also have calcium. I’m trying to avoid doing much math. It is by no means a strong suit of mine.
This particular pup has me worried about future joint issues. I have had about 20 GSDs in my life and never has joint problems. Some of that was luck. Some good breeding. Mostly it’s from experience and effort.
My (not so) little guy shows confirmation of the American Show Lines. Too much angulation. Thats a perfect set up for hip dysplasia. And his mother is 90+ lbs. I assume the “breeder” was trying to breed up like so many do these days. (This was a rescue situation so I don’t have any details on the sire.)

[DogFoodie]

Hi Erika,

Did you happen to take a look at the links I provided to you yesterday over on the review side?

Here’s the link to the forum thread I suggested you start with: /forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/ This thread has gotten very long, but there are lots of very helpful posts and links within the first few pages. This will answer the reason why you need to feed a controlled level of calcium to avoid skeletal disorders including hip and elbow dysplasia. You should also avoid over-nutrition (over feeding) which causes undue stress to growing joints and over-exercising for the same reason. You can use the calculator on the review side that you originally posted on to plug in your numbers to make certain that the food you’re looking at is appropriate for your giant breed pup. Your giant breed pup should be fed controlled calcium until he reaches at least 80% of his adult size, which is longer for giant than large breed puppies.

I know I already shared this too, but to keep everything in one spot, here’s the Google doc with the list of foods with appropriate calcium levels. But, remember I also mentioned that this list is aging and to double check calcium levels before you decide on foods that you like. https://docs.google.com/a/dogfoodadvisor.com/file/d/0BwApI_dhlbnFTXhUdi1KazFzSUk/edit?pli=1

I just wanted to post this real quick, but have to run again!

[Pitlove]

Like I said, your dog is past the point where the calcium/phosphorus ratio needs to be worried about. So I wouldn’t worry about that. I like the Fromm Gold and most large breed adult formulas because they are lower in fat than regular adult formulas which helps keep my pitbull at an ideal weight when its summer and humid down here in the south.

I would say they are important. Some large breed formulas contain trace amounts of glucosamine and MSM. Fromm Gold has chicken cartilage as the natural source of both. However, some argue that there isnt enough of an amount of either in foods to make it theraputic. Others say its made a huge difference in their dog. I feel that excersize is the key to keeping joints mobile, but when they do get older a supplement can be useful too aside from continuing regular excersize.

[Susan]

Hi Peggy, this happened with my boy, I finally found a kibble that agrees with him (No Skin Problems or poo problems) then when he was doing really well I started feeding wet tin foods for breakfast & the red paws came back, rolling & rubbing on the carpet, rubbing his back up & down the wall,…. so I stopped all wet tin foods & just feed his kibble for 3-4 weeks to see if his skin cleared up & it did so then I made his meals, I bought chicken, sweet potato & broccoli & made little meals & froze them, I watched Patch to see if the scratching started again & it didn’t so the next week, I made beef mince potatoes & carrots he started scratching his ears a bit so i’d say it was either the carrot or potato, so I stopped the carrot & potatoes & went back to sweet potatoes…also I’ve been giving Patch the K-9 Natural snacks the Green Lipped Mussel snacks & Salmon Tails snacks, they’re high in omega 3 for his skin & joints, he gets 2 a day, a mussel in the morning & a Salmon tail in the afternoon & I feed “Earthborn Holistic Ocean Fusion kibble, so he gets his chicken or beef for breakfast, then he has his fish kibble & fish snacks & his skin is looking really good again nice a shinny…
*K-9 Natural Green Lipped Mussels
http://www.chewy.com/dog/k9-natural-green-lipped-mussel/dp/118456
*Earthborn Holistic kibbles
http://www.earthbornholisticpetfood.com/us/dog_formulas/

[Susan]

Hi, sorry to hear about ur dog, Bone broth is suppose to be really good, I’ve heard it smells awful while it’s cooking but it’s suppose to be really good for the stomach, joints, cancer etc there’s a few recipes online, http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/12/02/pet-bone-broth.aspx

[Pitlove]

Hi- A lot of customers at the small pet store I work at use the Primal Raw Meaty Bones (they are beef marrow bones) and we have yet to have an issue. Perhaps trying the beef would be better. Them splintering like that is definitely concerning and I would not try to feed that bone again.

As for her arthritis, make sure she has comfortable things to lay on and I would definitely suggest a supplement like this one: http://www.chewy.com/dog/naturvet-arthrisoothe-gold-hip-joint/dp/48764
Also is she still getting excersized? Its kinda like how they tell humans that they need to continue to excersize to keep their joints from stiffening when they get older. I think continueing regular excersize for older dogs is a good idea to keep the joints mobile. Obviously only do what she can handle, but it should help. Was she a rescue? She seems young even for a pit to be having arthritis.

[C4D]

I agree with InkedMarie. I’ve had many dogs and one of my current dogs is a lab that’s almost 11. I never feed senior formulas. My large dogs live to the 15 year range. Older dogs need more not less protein as they don’t metabolize it as well. The thing you need to watch is their weight. Excess weight is hard on their bodies and joints in particular. Patti S included an excellent link.

Out of curiosity, what foods are you comparing and feeding? So many vary in quality. You might want to consider adding some fresh food to help your older dogs maintain their health.

• This reply was modified 10 years, 6 months ago by C4D.

[Anonymous]

GNC Pets Ultra Mega Hip & Joint Health for Senior Dogs – Beef Flavor

I don’t see brewers yeast listed as an ingredient.
Life Stage: 3- Senior Dogs
•Supports joint cushioning & mobility
•750 mg glucosamine + 600 mg chondroitin + 500 mg MSM
•Added omega-3 fatty acids, turmeric & boswellia for healthy joints

[Susan]

Hi, boil some pumkin or the tin pumkin not the pie filling pumkin….. Pumkin is high in fiber & should help with his constipation, mix about 1 spoon pumkin thru all his meals, ajust as needed more or less….. with the bones make some bone broth, bone broth is excellent for dogs joints & dogs love bone broth when finished cooking freeze sections & add with meals or give by it self… http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/reasons-your-dog-love-bone-broth/

[Sheryl P]

Has anyone used the NuVet vitamins and/or joint health supplements? I have been giving them to my almost 15 year old Aussie and my 5 year old Golden Retriever for about 3 weeks now. The Aussie’s joints seem to be not quite so stiff now. He had actually stopped swimming with my Golden about 6 months ago and has just in the last week started getting back in the water. My Golden is prone to hot spots because he practically lives in the water year round (we live on a farm surrounded by ponds and creeks) so his fur stays damp pretty much all day until I dry him off to come in at night! I can honestly say he has not had a outbreak since he started on these supplements. Just wondering if anyone else had used them and what kind of results they were having. I also have a 16 week old Aussie pup and was wondering at what point I should start joint supplements on him. He is on a premium puppy food (4.5 rated at DFA) so I’m not sure if he needs any supplements yet.

[InkedMarie]

Hi Chuck,
I have a brittany who is 5! I buy grinds from Hare Today, Reel Raw Dog and a new england meet up. I feed ones with bone & organ, tripe too for most. They’re complete. I add minimal supplements: salmon oil 3x weekly, eggs 3x weekly, Bug off Garlic & joint supps for my older dog. All you do is put the bowl on a scale, tare it, scoop it then feed. I do use some beef rib bones & necks as well for dental care.

[Anonymous]

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/pet-food-safety_55b67875e4b0a13f9d1976e7?kvcommref=mostpopular
Excerpt below:

As pet food health benefit claims go, these are relatively modest. Dozens of companies advertise specialty “skin and coat” or “healthy joint” offerings that suggest they will help prevent or treat itchy skin or arthritis — common, painful issues for many dogs. PetSmart, a major retailer, has an entire sales category for “skin and coat” dog foods.

There is typically very little scientific evidence to back up these alleged health benefits.

“You don’t have to have any real evidence for that,” said Dr. Kathy Michel, professor of nutrition at the University of Pennsylvania’s School of Veterinary Medicine. “A lot of it’s marketing.”

[crazy4cats]

I have never heard of this supplement before. Wow! It has a lot of ingredients. Maybe too many? If you are feeding a aafco approved food, your pup most likely doesn’t need all of the extra vitamins and minerals. I would stick to just a joint formula. Hopefully some others will chime in with some good ideas for you.

Does your pup have a torn ligament? What’s going on with the knee?

[InkedMarie]

Senior dogs need higher protein, not low which is what most senior foods are. Orijen has a very good senior foods. I’d keep away from grains & potato for the arthritic one as they can be inflammatory. Add your own joint supplement. The amount in the food isn’t worth bothering with. Basically, any grain/potato/chicken grainfree food with protein over 28% at the minimum

[Joy M]

Hello to all and Thank you in advance for all your help
I have been feeding my dog Lilly a 5 1/2 year old rescue pit a lightly cooked meal with dry for going on 2 years now with no problems but for nearly a year have been trying and trying to go totally raw But she will not touch it I have done my research and tried to wait it out She now just stopped eating raw meaty bones now she just buries it under the sofa or wherever but she never goes back to get them before I went back to raw she loved them So my question is am i hurting her by lightly cooking all the food She is very healthy now by the way When we first got her she was very sickly Horrible rashes ,Diarrhea ,bad joint issues Etc Most of that is gone now
I just am so confused She has had all her vaccinations before i got her and since then I was forced to get Rabies and talked into Lyme because we go camping in the deep woods But she has had none in two years

[crazy4cats]

Hi Kristen-
I second Dogfoodie’s Victor recommendation! They have several different recipes, including with and without grains. I frequently feed my two labs the grain free joint health formula with really good results. My dogs also do well on grain free Merrick and their Whole Earth Farms budget brand. I plan to continue with them in my rotation unless something changes with their ingredients after the transition to Purina.

[Barbara W]

What size is your goldendoodle ? ZIWIPEAK is very expensive as it is imported from New Zealand. There are many 5 star dry or dehydrated foods on this sight, pick one, and gradually mix more and more into her current food until she is totally switched with no
ill affects. If you mix some milk in , use Goats Milk, not regular milk. I would start with a
chicken based food, just because that’s what she has been used to. If it is a large goldendoodle, you do not want them growing to fast as that can cause hip and joint problems latter.

[crazy4cats]

Hi Shawn-
Congratulations on the new puppy! I have two lab mix dogs. They are about to turn four in the next few days. Large breed puppies have some special requirements when it comes to food due to possible joint issues from growing too fast, too much exercise, or incorrect calcium amount in their food. Here is a link that will explain this in more detail:

/best-dog-foods/best-large-breed-puppy-food/

A couple of good choices in my opinion would be Fromm Gold Large Breed or Wellness Core puppy food. Hope this helps. Good luck!

[InkedMarie]

I personally don’t want to pay for produce in my dogs food; I can give them that separate if I want to.

I only give eggs 3x a week, salmon oil 3x a week, 1tsp diatamaceous earth 3x a week, Bug Off Garlic daily and my oldest gets some joint supplements.

[Andy B]

Lindsay,
I have 2 brother maltese/pekingese mix that will be 14 in Dec. They are both on Royal Canin LP Modified Renal dry. This was from a vet’s recommendation and it has only been about 3 months. It cuts back their protein intake, although I mix a tablespoon of cooked chicken breast in with their meal as well as about 2 tablespoons of water. Also, I am still mixing Blue Buffalo Grain Free Wilderness Chicken recipe with it. I am going to switch to Orajen to mix with the RC instead of BB. (didn’t realize BB isn’t as good as I thought it was) Also, I have a 12 year old Italian Greyhound. She has an enlarged heart and the vet recommended RC Early Cardiac dry. She has been on that for almost a year. Doesn’t like the taste too well, but does finally eat it. Same program as the brothers with the chicken and water, but no BB. Both RC foods are vet prescription required. All dogs get a multi vitamin once a day and a cosequin joint supplement once a day. The Greyhound takes a cardiac pill called Cardial. She gets 1/4 of the tablet twice a day. They are all very active and no weight problem.

[Pitlove]

This is the GA for the Hill’s Metabolic and Mobility:

Average Nutrient and Caloric Content
Dry 3210 kcal/kg (291 kcal/cup†)

Nutrient
Dry Matter1
%
Protein 28.0
Fat 14.6
Carbohydrate (NFE) 36.2
Crude Fiber 14.9
Calcium 0.95
Phosphorus 0.7
Sodium 0.37
Potassium 0.88
Magnesium 0.159
Carnitine 400 ppm
Vitamin C 324 mg/kg
Vitamin E 741 IU/kg
Chondroitin Sulfate 1174 mg/kg (ppm)
Glucosamine 738 mg/kg (ppm

The protein is highER than most of their formulas and the carbs are low which is why it is meant to help your dog lose weight. I agree that the ingredients are sub-par. Prehaps look for a food with better ingredients but very very close %’s on the GA. This food also contains Chondroitin and Glucosamine for the joints. I’m not sure if a senior formula would contain those ingredients but be high enough protein and low enough carbs to help your girl lose weight. If you switch to something that is better quality and the same %’s on the GA make sure you add a joint supplement.
I have heard really good things about this product: http://www.naturvet.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=4

Edit: Remember a “weight loss” food does not work if they are taking in more calories than they are burning. If your senior dog is less active make sure to decrease the amount they are eating as well to aid in weight loss. Also senior dogs have a increased need for quality animal protein, not a decrease. Perhaps consider looking into a raw diet for her?

• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by Pitlove.
• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by Pitlove.
• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by Pitlove.

[Anonymous]

This is what I use http://www.gnc.com/GNC-Pets-GNC-Ultra-Mega-Hip-Joint-Health-Savory-Beef-Flavor/product.jsp?productId=61709686&cp=41316406.10772793.12946231

Pull up the label to see and compare ingredients. I wouldn’t be comfortable using a human product for this supplement, unless a veterinarian told me it was okay.
Some of these things can have adverse effects….also sometimes the ingredients that they use for coatings on human supplements don’t always agree with dogs.

• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by Anonymous.

[Bobby dog]

Hi Udi W:
Labs are so much fun!! I am not sure if you are concerned about his current weight or the possibility of gaining weight. It is best for his health to keep him lean by not overfeeding and to avoid over exercising him until he reaches maturity; less stress on growing joints. Here’s some more info:
/best-dog-foods/best-large-breed-puppy-food/

Here’s a thread about large breed puppy nutritional requirements. Read the first three or four pages and the links on the first page:
/forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/

On this page look for the post dated October 2, 2013 at 4:22 pm and follow the link to recommended large breed puppy foods. If you choose one of these foods I recommend contacting the company to be sure the calcium/phosphorous ratios are optimal for a large breed puppy, the list has not been updated for a few years.
/forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/page/36/

You could also join the Editor’s Choice for a current list of approved large breed puppy foods. Sounds like your pup is in good hands, good luck and have lots of fun with your boy!!

[C4D]

Hi Udi W,

There is no such thing as “neuter dog food”! It’s disappointing that your vet is trying to sell you on Royal Canin. 🙁 I’m not a personal fan of TOTW, but I dislike Royal Canin more. If you search on this forum there are a lot of discussions and recommended foods for feeding a large breed puppy to prevent joint/bone disorders. You could pick a food recommended from that list. The one thing you are going to have to watch is the calorie intake as you don’t want your puppy to grow too fast and I would definitely suggest feeding 2 meals per day as opposed to one.

Red has given you some good suggestions. I have/had labs myself. My current ones are over 10 and somewhere in the 5-7ish range, male & female, both altered. I’ve never fed a “neuter dog food” and they are both in excellent shape because I watch the calories and they get lots of walks.

[theBCnut]

Especially with large breeds, neutering early, before the growth plates close, can cause joint issues. Neutering slows down the closure of growth plates and depending on the age you neuter, some growth plates will already be close, as is natural, but others will stay open abnormally long, causing those bones to grow to a longer length than they were supposed to, which puts stress on the joints.

Citing a decrease in testicular cancer from neutering before a certain age strikes me as funny, since neutering at any age, as long as it is before the dog gets testicular cancer (which isn’t all that common anyway), completely removes the risk of testicular cancer, since the testicles are completely removed.

I have read a lot of research recently reporting that neutering may actually cause more behavior problems than it prevents, other than the desire to breed and those related behaviors. Neutered males are often cited as the aggressors in dog fights. Neutering seems to remove some caution as well as removing body parts.

If you are prepared to be a responsible owner, then neutering may be unnecessary. However, if you doubt your ability to keep your dog at home, under control, then neutering is better done early, before the dog gets to breeding age, regardless of other issues.

[Dog_Obsessed]

I have heard of some joint health risks for large breed puppies if they are neutered before 6 months, but I don’t think I’ve heard of any after that. I know more about it for female dogs, but I’ve never heard of anything wrong with neutering after 6 months for LBPs.

However, as someone who has volunteered in animal rescue, I definitely think you should neuter your dog at some point. I have seen far too many cases of puppies ending up in shelters due to people not spaying and neutering. Yes, it is more of a problem with owners that are irresponsible, and you are certainly responsible if you are asking this question, but anything can happen to any dog.