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Hello,
Sorry if this is too much detail, but I’d really like to explain the issue from beginning to end. Please bear with me.I’m a pet owner that believes in overall health of my dog, which includes dental cleanings. I have a Weimaraner that has gone under anesthesia in the past, including other dental cleanings. Though the day of the surgery, she showed some anxiety and “dopiness” coming out of the anesthesia, she handled it well and was usually back to normal the next day. Recently, as of Monday 8/27, at 9 years old, she underwent another dental cleaning. Because of her age, we did do a blood panel. Monday we picked her up and she did have some pacing and whining as she probably still had some lingering affects of the anesthesia. She ate dinner (1/2 can of wet food, Costco Kirkland grain free). By night time she was pretty much fine and slept the night through. The next morning, we had our usual routine of using the bathroom, feeding, then me getting ready for work. She was completely fine from what I saw between 5am-7:00am. Her breakfast was a little dry kibble and 1/2 can of wet food (I alternate cans between two different brands so this was American Journey). She ate about 6:45-7:00. When I left for work, about 7:45, I noticed she was pacing downstairs, lightly drooling, and panting. This is not normal behavior because she usually stays in the chair asleep upstairs until my husband goes to work. A little odd and abnormal from her day to day behavior, but nothing too alarming. I did let my husband know of her behavior and asked him to check on her in a few minutes, but then left for work. Within about 30 minutes, he called to say he felt something was definitely wrong with her because she seemed to have jumped on the bed, but then seemed confused on how to get down. She seemed a bit glassy-eyed and disoriented. He stated that she was walking in circles. The panting and pacing continued, along with her drooling. He called the vet and we decided to drop her off there for observation, with the understanding that it could still just be the effects of the anesthesia, even though it seemed the night before she was OK.
Fast forward…her condition didn’t change while at the vet, but they looked her over and didn’t find anything wrong with her. They felt that it was just anxiety. We took her home Tuesday night and she ate dinner like normal (dry kibble mixed with some wet canned, I think this was back to the Kirkland brand). I was able to get her calm until bedtime, and she then slept like a rock. The next morning she seemed back to normal.
Fast forward…last night. She seemed quite fine all day Wednesday, but right when we were about to go to bed (10-10:15pm), she had the same issues. She was on the ottoman in our bedroom and couldn’t figure out how to get down. The pacing ensued, with light drooling (not really much), glassy eyed, and panting. She was just restless. She finally went to bed and laid down about 11pm. She slept all night and seemed fine again this morning (Thursday) when I woke up. Again, our typical morning routine of letting them out and feeding them. This morning she only had dry kibble. But again after I left this morning, she had some of the same issues. Not too much of the panting and drooling, but the weird pacing and restlessness.
Has anyone experienced these issues after anesthesia? It should be completely out of her system by now so I’m wondering if it is another issue. On the other hand, she was perfectly healthy with no issues before the cleaning on Monday. Right now, my husband is telling me that she is sleeping hard and is calm. By the way, she has bowel movements, so no problem there. I feel like she is eating a bit more ravenous than normal, but from missing a meal then only receiving a smaller meal than normal after the cleaning, I figured that may be why. I’m at a complete loss as to what to do. Could anesthesia trigger neurological (if that is what this is) issues in a dog? Or could there have been something underlining going on? We had already had our vet look her over after the cleaning only to say it is anxiety. When we touch her all over, she doesn’t whine or grimace in pain. Any ideas?? Sorry for such a long post and thank you for anyone that is still reading!i posted on here a couple of months ago about my dog. she often has soft poop that is difficult to pick up out of the grass. a reader on here suggested upping the fiber content. i did that; i am feeding her american journey salmon and rice with 6% fiber. it does not seemed to have helped. i want to change the food anyway, because it has peas and pea protein, and i want to get away from beans after the stories I’ve heard about the possible relationship with heart issues and beans in diets. Before this food, she was eating whole earth farms chicken and turkey grain free. her poop was still pretty soft on that. before that, she ate royal canin SO (crystals in urine causing blood in urine and sometimes issues with holding urine), which i took her off of after feeding it to her for 8 months. the vet said i could try her on the SO food for a while and take her off to see how she does. she’s been off of it since june 2017 and has not had issues with her bladder. any suggestions as to what could be causing the issue with the poop? we have a vet appointment in September, so i’m definitely talking to my vet about this, but wanted to get feedback from folks on here with their experiences/suggestions. thanks!
Topic: Help (Duplicate Topic #8)
Below is an excerpt from https://www.aaha.org/pet_owner/lifestyle/why-theres-no-substitute-for-advice-from-your-own-veterinarian.aspx
If youāre reading this, chances are, you love your petsāand you know that panicked feeling when you think something might be wrong. Why is he whining? Why is she limping? Is he in pain? Is this something serious? What should I do?
We all want answers fast so itās tempting to look for clues online. In fact, AAHA receives many, many private messages through Facebook (and sometimes in the comments section of PetsMatter articles) requesting medical advice for a pet. But the response is always: āAsk your veterinarian.ā Why?
It isnāt a cop out. Seeing your veterinarian about an issue your pet is having is the best way to care for your dog or cat, says Heather Loenser, DVM, AAHAās Veterinary Advisor for Professional and Public Affairs. Loenser practices in several specialty, emergency, and general practices in the New York metro area, and lives with a number of rescued dogs, cats, turtles and five pampered hens (Peep Peep, Frofro, Cookie, Arabelle, and Golden, who were named by a 4-year-old girl).
āWithout examining a pet and carefully questioning an owner, the advice given over the Internet could be inaccurate and potentially life threatening,ā Loenser says. āAlthough many pet owners are experts in their petsā day-to-day routines, favorite activities, foods, and toys, they are not experts in their medical conditions. It is not uncommon for a pet owner to make misdiagnoses and ask questions based on said misdiagnoses.ā
For instance, pet owners often send messages asking AAHA to recommend a shampoo for a āstinky dog.ā Often, the dogās problem is not a āstinkyā body, but a painfulāand smellyāear or dental infection that needs to be treated by a veterinarian.
Reputable online sources for general veterinary advice
When you donāt have an urgent medical situation or a question specific to your pet, but want general information about pet health care, here are some reputable sources to consider:
⢠AAHAās Pet Health Library
⢠Veterinary Partner
⢠ASPCA Poison Control
⢠Pet Poison Helpline
⢠AVMA Pet Care
⢠American Association of Feline Practitioners ā Cat Care
⢠ePetHealth
⢠Cornell Feline Health Center
⢠Indoor Pet Initiative ā The Ohio State University
But of course, when in doubt, make an appointment to see your veterinarian. āIf your veterinarian is not available, seek care at a local emergency hospital,ā said Heather Loenser, DVM. āIf you need help finding an AAHA-accredited veterinarian, please use AAHAās hospital locator tool.ā
āAnother common question is what medication is best to treat a petās seizures. Diagnosing a seizure can actually be quite difficult and there are many other causes, including fainting from heart disease, serious liver disease, or difficulty regulating blood sugar,ā Loenser says. āVeterinarians are trained to identify the many causes of a problem that is noticed by a pet owner, make an accurate diagnosis, and communicate the treatment options.ā
When you consult the Internet, aka āDr. Google,ā instead of your veterinarian, it can be a challenge to find recommendations based on fact rather than fiction. Online health āremediesā could be ineffective, costly, or even dangerous.
There are also important ethical and legal reasons why a veterinarian shouldnāt give medical advice about a dog or cat theyāve never examined. In fact, AAHA requires a strong veterinarian-client-patient relationship (VCPR) in order for practices to provide quality care for animals.
āVeterinary medical ethics require veterinarians to have a valid veterinarian-client-patient relationship,ā says Loenser. āCurrently, our profession does not consider online consultations a valid way of establishing a VCPR. Once a veterinarian has examined a pet and is familiar with their care, it is not uncommon for communication to occur over the phone and via the Internet.ā
Until that relationship is established, veterinarians cannot respond to online questions about a pet. As Loenser pointed out: āWithout a valid VCPR, it is unethical and in many cases, illegal, for a veterinarian to dispense advice.ā
If you have questions about something you read on the Internet, donāt hesitate to ask an expert who is truly invested in the health and happiness of your pet, Loenser says.
āItās what we were trained to do,ā she says. āItās why we went to school. Itās why we get up every day. Itās why we become bonded to our patients and clients, grieving and celebrating with them, throughout a petās life.ā
Award-winning pet writer Jen Reeder is grateful AAHA has such high standards of care because she wants the very best for her beloved Lab mix, Rio.I’m terrible at titles, but this website and forum have been such an amazing resource for me over the past few years, so here we go:
I have a 16 months old Catahoula-mix female, Harper, neutered, and active/less active lifestyle. Currently I feed her Victor Ultra 42 dog food, which is high kcal and protein content. Our vet recommended that we lower our protein content because she is not a working dog. So, I’d like to find a food that avoids lower quality grains, limit or eliminates legumes, limits carbs, and limits overall ingredients. After some obsessive research, I am trying to choose between Earthborn Holistics Venture Turkey and Butternut Squash 340 kcal/cup and Canine Caviar’s Open Meadow 541 kcal/cup. I would prefer Canine Caviar based on my readings and ingredients, but I’m concerned that my dog will be starving at getting only 2 cups per day on average with her activity level. With Venture she would eat near 4 cups, split into two servings. Daily requirement to maintain weight determined at 1100 calories from maths at Petnet based on weight, size and activity level.
So, Community, am I missing something important, or am I on the right track? I’d like the food to last as long as possible, but not at the expense of Harper’s health or mental state. Can the higher kcal become more filling without adding too many carbs etc, or is a lower kcal the way to go? I’m not looking to plump up the dog, but rather give the highest ingredients I can afford with the most all around efficiency.
Is there another option aside from RAW, BARF, freeze dried that I am missing with pea/legume free, (mostly) grain free, moderate protein, low carb, no filler, high quality dog food? I live in an area with access to nearly any brand, with online ordering options as well.
Thank you all for reading, and I look forward to reading your thoughts!Hi guys,
This will be a long post.
So, with the new “grain free scare” I’ve been thinking about trying raw or freeze dried raw. I was looking at primal products but couldn’t figure out why the nutrition profiles were so different from their raw vs. freeze dried. On the website they state that their freeze dried is exactly the same as their raw except the moisture is removed. So I wrote them to find out more. Below is my e-mail exchange so far….ME:
I’m new to raw and looking for a lower fat option. I’m on the fence between raw frozen and freeze dried and was looking over the products on your website to see if any fit the bill of what I was looking for.
I noticed your frozen raw rabbit formula was low fat at 17% protein and 5% fat.
I then looked at the freeze dry formula and was surprised to see the protein is listed at 50% and the the fat is 28%.
When I did the math to convert the frozen formula to a dry matter basis I got that the protein should be 58% and the fat should be 17%17 / 29 x 100 = 58% for protein
5 / 29 x 100 = 17% for fat
Did I do the math wrong? I don’t understand why the protein and fat is so different on for your frozen vs freeze dried rabbit formula if the ingredient are the same.
If you could explain, that would be greatly appreciated.PRIMAL’S REPLY:
Thank you for contacting us. I can see how the math can get confusing. The nutritional values on our site are listed on an as-fed basis. Of course youāll see that when you compare the guaranteed analysis of our freeze-dried formula to our raw frozen formula, the protein and fat levels in the freeze-dried varieties appear to be elevated at first glance. However, the key to understanding this difference lies in the moisture content. Since the moisture has been removed in the freeze-dried product, this causes the protein and fat levels to increase. For best feeding results, we recommend rehydrating with water. The weight of a freeze-dried nugget weighs less than that of a raw nugget because moisture has been removed. Nutritionally, a raw nugget is the same as a freeze-dried nugget when rehydrated or consumed with water.ME:
I understand that the values are listed on as fed basis…but my question is regarding why the math doesn’t add up from your raw to freeze dried formula. If you re-read my original email you’ll see I’ve done the math to convert you raw formula to a dry formula and the values don’t match what is listed on the freeze-dried product.
If you convert the raw rabbit recipe into a dry matter basis, the protein should be 58% and the fat should be 17%. However that’s not what’s listed on the product. So I’m wondering how did you determine the values for the freeze dried formula?(EDIT: I didn’t get a reply to the above email, so I wrote to them again.)
ME:
I haven’t heard back from anyone regarding this. Maybe I’m not asking my question in a way that makes sense. Let me try to explain…
I understand that freeze dried food will always have higher nutritional values because the moisture is removed making it a higher concentration, however, the values on your freeze dried product don’t make sense compared to your raw frozen product from a mathematical stand point.
For example, your frozen raw rabbit has a 17% protein and 5% fat. If I convert these to dry matter based on the formula on your blog (https://primalpetfoods.com/blogs/news/guaranteed-analysis-what-does-it-mean) it should be 58% for protein and 17% for fat.
% guarantee Ć· dry matter x 100
17 Ć· 29 x 100 = 58% for protein
5 Ć· 29 x 100 = 17% for fat
However, on your freeze dried rabbit nuggets the protein is listed as 53% and the fat is listed as 28%.
There is no way the fat in the freeze dried product should be that high if it’s the same ingredients/formula as the frozen raw. I’ve noticed several other of your freeze dried formula’s are listing fat at a much higher percentage than it should be.
Please explain to me how you are getting the values for your freeze dried products.PRIMAL:
I apologize for my delay in response but greatly appreciate your patience! Please see below for assistance with your conversion:
1. The Protein/Fat content printed on the packaging is usually the exact lab result, and may depend on the source and part of the rabbit tested*.
2. Approximate average figures are generally 3 X Frozen values:
PFF Calculated Frozen : Protein (17), Fat (5) – Approximate – Calculated Freeze-dried : Protein (51), Fat (15) – Approximate
– PFF Actual Freeze-dried : Protein (50), Fat (28) – Actual lab results*(Variability in raw source)
– Customer Calculated Freeze-dried : Protein (58), Fat (17) – Approximate
We suggest using PPF calculated amount to make the final decision.ME:
Thanks for your response. I’d like to make sure that I understand this correctly. When the lab tested both the raw and freeze dried, they got different values for fat and protein for both formula’s (even though they are the same), because different or fattier parts of the rabbit could have been used in the freeze dried batch?
The approximate average figures are generally 3x the frozen value, but it this case it’s 6x the fat. ( 5% fat in the raw rabbit vs 28% fat in the freeze dried rabbit.)
Do you lab test each batch for protein and fat content, as it seems it can vary considerably.
On the freeze dried product it states that 28% is the minimum fat content, meaning it could be higher, but not lower.
This is where I’m confused because if the raw frozen and freeze dried are essentially the same product (just with moisture removed) the freeze dried variety had a much higher fat content than the raw…meaning different batches have different fat content. So it’s impossible to say that the minimum fat in the freeze dried rabbit is 28%, right? There are batches that could have less fat depending on the source and part of the rabbit tested.
Please let me know if this is correct.PRIMAL:
While we are required to list guaranteed analysis information in terms of minimums and maximums, the values weāve chosen to post are not actually a minimum or a maximum. We list the actual values that we receive from our lab tests.ME:
That doesn’t make sense to me. You’re required to list guaranteed information in terms of minimum and maximum, but you’re choosing not to? I’m not trying to be difficult, I just genuinely don’t understand. Should I disregard the minimum/maximum values on your packaging?
YOU didn’t answer my other questions. Do you test each batch for fat/protein content? How did you decide what is listed on the freeze dried package in terms of protein and fat? Did you test multiple batches and give an average or did you only test one batch and print those results on all of the packaging?
Based on your previous emails I’m assuming that the fat content on the freeze dried product is much higher than the fat listed on the frozen raw product because of “the source or part of rabbit.”
But that being said, in other batches of food a leaner rabbit source could be used making the fat content lower. So am I correct in saying the 28% fat is not the definite minimum and could be much lower in other batches depending on the rabbit source?(I sent that last e-mail to primal on Aug 2nd, and I have not gotten a reply back since.
Does what they’re saying make sense to anyone? I thought they were required to list minimum or maximum values….any thoughts?)I’ve always fed my dogs Acana because I came to feel that there were just too many recalls of American-made pet foods and too little oversight of ingredient quality. When the last one died, I went a year before adopting a new dog and just bought Acana for him out of habit. Tonight I had to go get a new bag of food and when I got home, I started reading the package information since the store didn’t have the formula I’d being using. I guess I’ve been out of the loop too long because I didn’t realize Acana had been bought by an American firm and is using mainly American-sourced ingredients.
This is exactly what I don’t want. I frankly do not trust American-made dog foods nor American-sourced ingredients. For my confidence level, there are just too few regulations for pet foods in the U.S., too many recalls of American-made pet foods, and too much factory farming in the U.S. to have confidence in American-sourced pet food ingredients.
So, are there any pet foods still being made in Canada of Canadian-sourced ingredients? And if not, are there any American-made pet foods that I might have reason to trust? Thanks for any advice you have.
Anyone out there that is feeding their Diabetic dog something other than the Vet recommended dog food for Diabetes. My vet only says Royal Canin or Hills and I would never feed my dog either brand if he was not sick and now to be forced to is burning me up. I read the ingredients and cringe. He started eating it ok but now does not like the wet Royal at all and the only way he will eat the kibble is with roasted chicken in with it. I would like to switch foods to something with better ingredients but it seems so hard to find out the caloric numbers for foods. they all give you ingredients and analysis but no one can seem to find me the Caloric amount per cup or whatever. So hard to balance it to the 14 units of insulin twice a day they have him on. He is doing ok but it is a fight with a vet who does not want me mixing things with his food to get him to eat it and a dog that will not eat or takes hours to finish. I work and travel for work so having dog sitters have to jump through hoops to get him to eat is a pain. He loves food just not this one. I was looking at like an Orijen Fit and Trim or Merrik . Any sugguestions would be a great help!
Hi
I think people are confusing these health problems caused by Legumes with Potatoes aswell…
Earlier this month, the Food and Drug Administration announced that it is investigating a link between these newer Exotic protein, high Legume Grain Free diets with a common type of canine heart disease, DCM.
FDA also mentioned Potatoes awell but I think Potatoes were only mentioned cause these newer grain free kibbles have Peas, Chickpeas & Potatoes, or they’ll have Peas, Green Lentils, Red lentils & Sweet Potatoes….
So Potatoes were mentioned on the FDA report??…
“Guilit by association”
I have seen NO proof that it’s potatoes blocking taurine & causing heart problems in dogs?
If anyone has any proof that potatoes are blocking taurine causing deficiency of Amino Acid Taurine in Dogs.
Please post this proof..When G/F kibbles first came out years ago they all had Potatoes & Sweet Potatoes & there were NO health problems in dogs..
There’s kibbles that have healthy grains & potatoes, these kibbles have caused no health problems, these health problems happened since these newer G/F kibbles were very high in Legumes…
Types of Legumes
Chickpeas.
Beans.
Peas.
Lentils.
Lupins.Royal Canine & Hills make vet formula’s that contain Potatoes but they do not have any vet diets containing Legumes..???
Potatoes are not related to Legumes.
Legumes are the fruit or pod of the botanical family Leguminosae. The potato tuber (Solanaceae family) is actually the greatly enlarged tip of the underground stem of the potato.
Potatoes are a Tublr plant with notable tuberous roots include sweet potato, cassava….If you’re looking for a new kibble look for kibbles that have Sweet potatoes, Rice, Oats, Potatoes, Blueberries, Butternut Squash, Pumkin, healthy grains etc as long as your dog doesn’t have any food sensitivitives to certain grains & ingredients…
Make sure there’s no more then 20% legumes (peas) in the dry kibble, if the kibble has peas just make sure the peas are further down the ingredient list, 5th 6th 7th ingredient & peas are NOT 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th ingredient…Here’s a kibble ingredient list that I’d avoid, this formula is very high in Legumes….
“Kangaroo, Kangaroo Meal, Peas, Chickpeas, Pea Flour, Sunflower Oil (preserved with Citric Acid), Flaxseed, Red Lentils, Green Lentils, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Pea Protein, Natural Flavors, Salt,”
*There’s Red Lentils, Green Lentils, Chickpeas & Peas, all these Legume ingredients make the protein % higher with Plant Proteins, Kangaroo is expensive so there’s more plant proteins, then meat proteins also look at ingredient spliting with peas? peas are 3rd ingredients, then again Pea Flour is 5th ingredient, then pea protein is 11th ingredient, if they didn’t split the peas up then the peas would probably have been 1st or 2nd ingredient…
also rotate your kibbles with different brands, so your dog has variety in his diet, if 1 brand of kibble does have something wrong with it, your dog isnt eating this brand long enough to cause any health problems cause your rotating his diet….
Look at Freeze Dried raw aswell, there’s some good freeze dried dog foods, the freeze dried ingredients are not cooked at very high temperatures like kibble is made so the nutrients stays in the ingredients….
“Ingredient spliting” is a trick these Pet Food Companies do, they split the peas up, in the ingredient list, pea flour, pea protein, pea fiber, when you see these ingredient avoid these dog foods as they are full of peas, the peas are really the 1st ingredient but cause they have split the peas into pea flour, pea protein, pea fiber, then the peas move further down the ingredient list but really the peas are 1st ingredient & your meat protein is probably 3rd ingredient….
Ingredient list are written when ingredients are raw, not cooked, these pet food companies know all the tricks & cons so we buy their foods, we just have to be smarter then them & learn how to read an ingredient list..Please post kibble brands & their formula’s that are legume free or 20% or less in legumes, to help people that dont know what to feed till we get more answers..
Please no nasty posts…