[Tina]

Anyone own a Golden Retriever? If so what do you feed yours? My Golden Retriever Angel is 8 years old and has these problems;
*dry skin
*itchy skin
*red skin
*weak hip and joints (she is on cohesion for this)
*sometimes over weight
*eats very fast
She is on Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Senior along with other small bags of stuff mixed in. She has only had chicken her entire life and as a younger puppy/adult was on;
*Eukanuba Puppy
*Purina Pro Plan Puppy
*Purina One Adult
*Hill’s Science Diet Large Breed Adult
*Royal Canine Golden Retriever
*Blue Buffalo Large Breed Senior
*Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Senior
None of these I was happy with and none of them did the trick except for Royal Canine (kinda). What can you suggest? I’m open to ANY suggestions, including all life stages dog food. My only thing is that I need it to be inexpensive, not cheap but not like $80 for a 24lb bag.

[crazy4cats]

Hi Case-
My dogs will be three next month and I still feed them all life stages or puppy food. I have no plans to change to a maintenance food. The ALS and puppy foods tend to be a little higher in protein and calories. My dogs are both about 80 pounds and this works out well for them. Good luck. Who knew feeding our furry friends could be so controversial?

[RescueDaneMom]

Case-

I have a Great Dane. I agree that it depends on the size of the dog. The most important thing is to NOT feed a food that is only approved for Adult Maintenance by AAFCO to your puppy. I would feed an “All Life Stages” or puppy food (they truly are the same thing) until at least 1 year. If you have a large breed, then 2 years. If you have a giant breed (like a Dane), then 3 years. I also agree with aquariangt about vets. My vet and I butt heads over what I feed my dog. I choose to feed The Honest Kitchen and raw. My vet says that feeding Purina or Iams is just as good and all I’m doing is wasting my money on expensive dog food. I told him that we’ll have to agree to disagree and we don’t speak on the subject anymore.

I hope this is helpful. Just my two cents 🙂

[pugmomsandy]

It depends on the size of the dog. For large/giant breeds, picking a food with the proper amount of calcium and phosphorus and proper calcium:phosporus ratio is more important than picking a food for “growth” or “all life stages” during the first year to 2 years. Large/giant breed pups need controlled amounts, where as toy/small or medium does not require the controlled amounts. You can be feeding too much calcium and phosphorus even though a food is rated for “growth” or “all life stages” during the large/giant breed puppy phase. So I would feed a large/giant breed pup a food with proper Ca/Phos for a year or two.

I deal with toy dogs so I would hypothetically switch as young as 8 months to “adult” food, but personally, I feed “all life stage” or “growth/puppy” food all the time to my toy dogs, even to seniors.

It is somewhat confusing and not as black and white as just “puppy” or “adult” food. If you have a large/giant breed pup, there is a forum topic for that:

/forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/

and there is a link to a document created by Hounddogmom with foods appropriate for large/giant breed pups in there. I think around page 15 and an updated list around pages 34-35. I haven’t looked in that topic for a while since I have only toy dogs!

• This reply was modified 11 years, 10 months ago by pugmomsandy.
• This reply was modified 11 years, 10 months ago by pugmomsandy.

[DogFoodie]

AAFCO only recognizes two profiles for dog foods. One is growth and the other is adult maintenance. Foods that are labeled for puppies are the same as foods that are labeled “all life stages.” Any dog can be fed an ALS or puppy food. I feed both of my now-adult dogs ALS foods, which are the same as puppy foods.

[SaintsDontCarryBrandy]

Our family has had Saint Bernards since before I was born, but the diet choices weren’t either as varied or as useful as they are now. “What’s cheap?” reigned over “What’s the best diet?” Now I have a Saint Bernard puppy (9 weeks) coming into our household who’s been raised on Sportmix Wholesome. It averages 3.5 stars, but given its first few ingredients are major flags, I’m not willing to “save a few bucks” in exchange for a less healthy and shorter-lived pup!
I can’t access HDM’s Large Breed Dog Food list on Google (argh); am considering Victor Grain Free, but am open to any dog food good for giant-breed dogs (my pup’s dad is 220 and a strapping boy, so he isn’t likely to be small…) Saints develop at a rapid pace, so their dietary needs are similar to other giants (Newfies, Mastiffs, Danes, Pyrenees, etc.)

Am reading everything I can get my hands on. I’m willing to get better quality dog food; would appreciate any advice, as well as thoughts on feeding raw vs. great-quality package food. Thanks!

[Hound Dog Mom]

Hi Nat R –

Just so you know, no studies exist demonstrating that protein has negative effects on giant breed puppies or adults – anything you read about this is myth and nothing more. There is, however, a lot of research proving the protein is not harmful.

Feeding Large Breed Puppies by Susan Winn DVM (Featured in IVC Journal)

“A common misconception found in many internet articles is the claim that dietary protein should be controlled in large breed puppies to prevent skeletal abnormalities. This theory was disproved some years ago (Nap, 1991). Most commercial puppy foods contain more protein than is thought necessary, but studies have shown that protein contents of 23% to 31% (dry matter) do not have a deleterious effect on growth.”

“Decades ago, we considered some adult diets appropriate for puppies. However, a calorie-calcium mismatch is probably common. Adult maintenance foods are often less calorically dense than puppy foods. Additionally, these diets may have calcium and phosphorus levels that are higher in relation to energy density than a large breed puppy diet. If a rapidly growing puppy has to eat more food to obtain enough calories for growth, a calcium overdose is possible.”

“Most nutritionists recommend that large, fast growing puppies eat diets containing AT LEAST 30% protein and 9% fat (dry matter basis).”

The Effect of Breed Size on Nutritional Considerations for Growing Puppies

“Excessive intake of dietary protein has been suggested as a contributing factor to skeletal developmental problems, such as osteochondrosis, in large breed dogs. This hypothesis was tested by feeding Great Dane puppies either 15%, 23% or 32% dietary protein (13%, 21% or 29% of energy). While the low protein diet reduced growth, no detrimental effects from the higher protein diets were observed.”

This is a FANTASTIC article (one of my favorites) on large breed nutrition written by Susan Lauten PhD – I would HIGHLY recommend reading it in its entirety, however here are some of the highlights:

Nutritional Risks to Large-Breed Dogs: From Weaning to the Geriatric Years

“Currently, no evidence exists to suggest that high-protein intake contributes to the development of orthopedic disease in growing large-breed puppies. Previous studies suggesting a risk for high protein and DOD were confounded by higher energy intake in high-protein foods. In general, large-breed puppy diets are formulated to contain approximately 30% protein (DMB) similar to other puppy foods.”

“…feeding adult foods to large-breed puppies before 1 year of age is not recommended because the calcium-to-energy ratio is generally lower in adult foods compared with large-breed puppy food. Feeding an adult food can actually result in greater intake of calcium than feeding puppy foods. Because the puppy must consume a larger portion of adult food to meet energy needs for growth, total calcium intake may actually be higher than with a properly formulated large-breed puppy formula.”

Here is the link to a study done on Great Dane pups that was featured in the Journal of Nutrition. The study concluded: “the differences in protein intake per se did not affect the occurrence of disturbed skeletal development in young Great Danes.”

Do You Know What to Feed Your Large Breed Dog? By Karen Becker DVM

“Studies have repeatedly concluded dietary protein levels have no effect on the development of skeletal problems in large and giant breed dogs. But still today, many breeders of large dogs, owners and even some veterinarians will tell you protein is the problem, even though there is no evidence to prove it. Protein excess is not the problem. In fact, it’s often a dietary protein deficiency that contributes to skeletal problems.”

You may find this of interest as well. Here Dr. Becker interviews a Newfie breeder (not Great Danes I know – however Newfies are generally considered to be a giant breed). This breeder feeds his dogs HIGH protein raw and his dogs don’t experience many of the health problems typical to giant breed dogs and his dogs live much longer than most giant breeds (he had a dog live to be 17 – the typical life span of a giant breed is about 8).

Sorry to bombard you with reading, but large breed nutrition is one of my favorite subjects and I like to make sure people have the facts. 🙂

• This reply was modified 11 years, 10 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.
• This reply was modified 11 years, 10 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.

[nat r]

I do not have a great dane, however I am doing A LOT of research on these dogs as I am crazy about them, but refuse to have one until I know I can give it the proper care, diet and love it needs. I have read so many things about the typical diet for great danes that they need a diet that is under 24% protien, however I have also came across things, such as this argument, explaining otherwise. I will share one thing I have found out about these dogs and there diet. On every website I have came across it has advised me to feed a great dane food that has protien 24% or less and never feed them puppy food even when they are pups as it can cause bone problems. Now to all of you arguing that protien does not help grow bones, I agree! However it does help grow muscle, and to a dog with such a huge frame that is likely to develop bone probolems already, I don’t think that a dog of that state would need extra weight put onto there bones until they are a little older, so out of everything I’ve heard, just to be on the safe side, when I do get my great dane, I will feed it food with 24% or less of protien, and never feed it puppy food.

[ab1028]

I have used Acana products for my 10 month old puppy and have had a lot of success on it. I bought a sample bag of the lamb singles (when it still contained oats), but he seemed to do better without grains. I think that having their new singles without grains will actually help my dog. To me, having some foods in your rotation that contain legumes is not the worst. I will continue to support Champion pet foods and feed their products.

I have also fed Petcurean products, however my dog seems to like Acana better (he is eating a bag of Orijen right now and doesn’t seem to mind that as well, and he is picky). I used Now Fresh, but he got tired of it after a bag. He has also had some of the Go! wet products and enjoyed that.

[Eric Q]

im having the same problem. I got my puppy last September from north shore animal league. I was feeding her what they were giving her (just some super market brand puppy chow) I immediately started swiching her to the better food (wellness just for puppy) she would maybe 2 times a week finish her food. I tried many brands from call of the wiled, wellness, nutro, and others. I tried mixing wet with dry , only dry , only wet and nothing seems to interest her. She is now 11 months old and im at my wits end. I took her to the vet several times they say she looks good she is not under weight. but I know she is hungry. I do not as a rule give her any people food. Im the only one in my house so I know someone is not giving her stuff behind my back. I do sometimes give her a milk bone or a small carrot as a treat but nothing more and she devours the milk bone or carrot and looks for more but when it comes to meal time she will eat a little and walk away. I now get dried liver training treats from the pet store and grind them down and sprinkle it over the food. sometimes it helps sometimes it doesn’t. Does anyone have any advice? Please help!!!

[jen.mcco]

Curious if there is a listing of foods that include grain by any chance– I do rotation diets with my older boxers (5 yrs and 9 yrs) which include grain/grain-free/raw– WE do not feed corn/wheat/soy products and everything I feed is on the 4 or 5 star list– However we will be getting another boxer puppy in 3 wks– Although I would like to rotate his diets as well I would like to know if there are any 4 star foods that are acceptable for a large breed puppy that is not totally grain free-

[Hound Dog Mom]

Hi Bryan C –

I wasn’t familiar with the product but I just looked it up. My concern with this product would be that it contains generic “animal fat” preserved with BHA, BHT, citric acid and ethoxyquin. 🙁 As far as puppy formulas go, my favorite is Wysong’s Mother’s Milk (http://www.wysong.net/products/mothersmilk-dog-cat-supplement.php) there are also some great recipes out there for homemade formulas – they usually contain ingredients like goat’s milk and egg yolks. Just curious as to why you’re looking to feed formula to an 8 week old puppy? Formula definitely won’t do any harm but a pup that age should be able to eat solid food.

[Al D]

HI All First Post,

Davis is my 5 mo border collie and came to me 9 weeks old on Purina one. He is currently 25 lbs.

I kept him on Purina for a few months but had multiple problems with moths in the purina kibble (two separate bags) Other than that he did very well on Purina.

I transitioned him on to Orijen puppy over about 7 days last month but he has not done very well on it.

He has loose stool and occasional trouble holding it down. I know of him vomiting it up two times.

I’ve been feeding him per the suggested portions and have cut that back a 1/4 cup. (Current total per day 2/3c twice a day) + treats.

His energy is good but he is on the thin side. If i up the portions of Origen the problems are worse.

If I mix in some pumpkin his stool firms up but it goes back to runny when off pumpkin.

My Local pet store suggested trying Acana Wild Prarrie – as an easy transition from the Orijen.

My only thought is that Acana/Orijen may be too similar.

I hate switching up his food again but I have to do something for my little guy.

I would consider going back to Purina but have read others having the moth problems too.

I started the transition to Acana today 25% Acana 75% Orijen and will be 100% Acana by this time next week. Im hoping the slightly lower protein and fat will be okay.

DPN

[LexiDog]

If you are not into making a homemade food (I am not at this moment but may later consider it), you can try commerical raw dog food. Stella & Chewys and Primal are wonderful. Those are what I feed my dog.

Kibble – Dogswell Live Free has a low glycemic impact becuase they use peas and chickpeas for their starch. Compared to Science Diets W/D (Glucose Management formula) which has 51% carbs, Live Free looks pretty good. Their canned food is supposed to be even lower in carbs.

I just emailed them to find out their carb & ash content. Below is what they replied with:
Carbs
LIVE FREE Puppy Chicken 21%
LIVE FREE Adult Chicken 23%
LIVE FREE Senior Chicken 24%
LIVE FREE Adult Lamb 21%
LIVE FREE Adult Salmon 22%
LIVE FREE Adult Turkey 22%

Ash
LiveFree Puppy Chicken 7.8%
LiveFree Adult Chicken 7.7%
LiveFree Senior Chicken 8.8%
LiveFree Adult Lamb 8.7%
LiveFree Adult Salmon 8.7%
LiveFree Adult Turkey 9.7%

Hope this helps!

[cindy q]

I think if you could just tell us nothing has changed with the way Honest Kitchen is making their food, that everything is the same as when they did make the list then we would feel better. I think we are all here for the same reason, we want the best for our babies. I very much appreciate this forum and I am still trying to figure out what to feed my Standard Poodle puppy, my toy will eat anything (except kibble) the Standard was a good eater but suddenly has gotten quite picky. So I have been checking all the 5 star foods on here trying to find something she will eat. Thanks for all the time and work that you put into this.

[Trang L]

Hi everyone, i really need help choosing the kibble for my little Pokey. He is a toy poodle and 5 months old. I was feeding him Fromm puppy food and currently switching to Acana Paficia. When I mixed the two, his stool was soft until I completely gave him the Acana one yesterday and he didnt bother to eat the food again today. He was so in love with it at the beginning. He would only ate the Acana when I mixed it with the Fromm. However, today he does not want to eat. And he had firm stool following with watery stool. I dont know is it because of the Acana that giving him the problem. I am thinking about try something else better for him. Does anyone have the same problem? Please help me! I am really wrr about my little guy. Thank you!

[aimee]

Naturella… Since you’d trust a holistic vet with education in nutrition you may be interested to know that Susan G. Wynn, DVM, CVA, CVCH, AHG Veterinary Nutrition and Integrative Medicine
recommends Science Diet : ) susanwynn.com/uploads/Large_breed_puppy_nutrition.doc

I’m open to the idea that veterinary nutritionists and PhD nutritionists use different criteria to evaluate diets and I find that they often recommend Hills. I’ve also found that when commercial foods are fed to zoo animals Hills is often used. My local zoo feeds Hills. I asked why and if they get it as a donation and was told by the zoo nutritionist that they purchase the food and they use it because of the controlled nutrient levels and high bioavailability of the nutrients.

[Diana M]

I am a long time Dane owner, currently have 3, 2-6yr olds and a 9 month old puppy. Great Danes absolutely need to start out their lives on a low protein diet, puppy food and higher than 24% protein can be disabling and painful. The higher protein causes their bones to grow more rapidly, and any Giant pet owner knows they grow fast. My guys grow a pound a day on a “low” protein diet. When the cartilage can not keep up with their bones (on a higher protein diet) the bones start to rub and it is painful for them to walk. Even on a low protein diet this can still happen, and happened to me. I kept the runt of a litter, had to tube feed him when he was born, about 5 months of age on a low protein diet he couldn’t walk. I fed him an 18% protein food and he was walking in no time. My thought process is if your Dane does well on the low protein as an adult continue to feed him/her that. If they do not, a slightly higher protein may be your answer. They are a naturally lean dog so the low protein helps them with their weight, but if they have bowel issues, by all means try a higher protein diet. Another note: All of my Danes, have had issues with beef, lamb, chicken has always been my go to. I dehydrate chicken breast for them for their treats. It’s easy and cheaper than purchasing that garbage from China.

[Naturella]

I agree that a lot of people seem to have issues with Blue Buffalo, and this is not good. However, there are the few (apparently) whose dogs have done well on it. If I were to be asked to make a recommendation to someone about dog food, I would base it off of personal experience and research, and regarding Blue Buffalo, I can say that Bruno did wonderfully on the Wilderness Puppy for about 4 months, until I decided to rotate him out of it, just because rotating foods is good, not because of issues. I would say that I will keep Wilderness in our rotation because he’s done well on it, and because I know of 3 other dogs (in 2 separate households) who also have been feeding Blue (one constantly, which is not that great, the other in rotation) and their dogs have been ok too. Nonetheless, I can say that I have read about many who experience issues with it, but I really believe that it comes down to individual dogs and their guts for the most part. It is important that everyone closely monitors their dog and watch for reactions, then act accordingly. I have never had to contact the company, so I don’t know how their customer service is.

And I think the above goes for just about any food I have fed, or read a lot about. Still, no matter how much I read about foods, I will have to feed it to my dog personally in order to form my own opinion based on experience. There are many many foods I want to feed based on profile alone (and some forumers’ or friends’ opinions of them) – Wellness Core, Nature’s Variety Instinct, Wysong Epigen or Wysong 90, Victor (feeding a bit of it now, but want a full bag to really test it out), AvoDerm Trout (just that one, lol), Taste of the Wild and Canidae Pure (yes, yes, I know about Diamond and the recalls), Merrick Grain Free, Orijen (drool) and maybe Acana, Back to Basics (got a bag in the cabinet waiting its turn to be opened), Fromm, Darwin’s, The Honest Kitchen (when I’m rich, lol), etc. I don’t even know if Bruno’s lifetime will allow me to rotate through them once, let alone twice, lol.

So yeah, that’s my 2 cents.

[rudy g]

Would it be ok to feed my 1year 2 month old the large breed puppy food I will be getting for Bear (7 week old timber wolf shepherd)?

I ask because I have heard it might be better than adult? Thx.

[Naturella]

I fed Blue Buffalo Wilderness Puppy, 15lbs of it, over about 4 months or so to my Rat Terrier mix with no problems. I switched him to it from Nutro Natural Choice Small Breed Puppy, and it made a great difference for him as far as his coat becoming nice and shiny (which MAY also be due to the fish skins he was being stuffed with at the time as well), but I attribute part of the effect to the higher-quality that BB Wilderness is. Bruno had no issues with the food – no vomiting or stool problems that were food-related (he used to get carsick as a puppy, and he would vomit, but that was in the car only). Now I feed other foods, but I would feed Blue Buffalo Wilderness again one day, and keep it in our rotation, because he had no issues with it. And that’s just our personal experience with this food.

[lmnordrum]

We tried Meadow Feast when she was a younger pup and she had very loose and mucus-y stool, which is why I had to do Wellness, lol. Figured it was the lamb in there. The dog is 6 months old and has been on Wellness Core Puppy since I brought her home at 9 weeks. I was looking at the Earthborn products again last night because of the lower fat.

What I don’t understand here is if its a chicken allergy or intolerance, how come I can give her cooked chicken and there’s no problem? I’ve pored through this thread and others and keep coming back to an intolerance, but have a difficult time believing it is chicken because of how well she does on a non-kibble diet. I am leaning towards fats being the problem. But puppy can not live on fresh chicken and rice soup forever, which is why I visited the vet.

Ironically this all started about a day after I took her to a professional commercial dog facility for training class. They do doggy daycare and boarding, as well as classes. There are likely hundreds of dogs that go through that lawn and parking lot every day, and of course being a dog she had to sniff around. She also had a bite out of the cat box (eww, but someone left the gate down) three days prior, drank some standing water out of a gutter, chewed lilies and daffodil leaves and ate dirt. I have asked the vet to check for parasites along with Giardia and Coccidia, but I understand that the latter can be more difficult to find.

Right now the dog is on Flagyl and Pepcid with a new probiotic that the vet likes (Proviable). I have the Dr Langers probiotic on order which I’ll take for myself if the animal does well on the Proviable. At this point it seems to be a mystery and I’m in the denial phase of the kibble situation because it was so sudden. We live in the country and the dog has only been in my yard (now fenced) and not exposed to other dogs until dog school. She also was boarded in April (two weeks prior to all of this) but my kennel gal did not let my animal near the others because the dog was too rough. We’ve been visiting this kennel for grooming and some short boarding since January.

I’m thinking about the fat content of the Wellness, which is pretty high (its puppy food). The current chicken/rice/homemade broth is incredibly low in fat. If she’s having problems with fats then I need a much different kibble, like for seniors or overweight dogs. But then I have the whole nutrition thing to consider because she’s just six months old and has a lot of growing to do yet. So I am now poring over lists and labels because of the things I need to avoid. I may end up with a kibble that has some grain.

I really hope the answer lies in the lab results. We’ve only had worming at 9 and 12 weeks. Some vets recommend worming monthly and my first vet did not mention this. My current vet, who I am using because there is more than one and they have a larger treatment facility, is a lot younger and didn’t scoff at me for wanting to feed probiotics or a more natural diet or even hold off on a spay until the animal was more mature. The first vet, who is the kindest person you want to meet and I’ve known for a long time, has been practicing for about 50 years and does horses and large animals and is quite well known for his equine practice. He wanted me to feed ScienceDiet crap because of all the research put behind the food. Sorry. Not feeding my dog corn or wheat. I am OK with oatmeal and rice–I don’t eat corn myself except on rare occasions so I am sure as heck not feeding it to a purebred dog who may have a sensitive digestive system because of her breed.

So now I cook chicken and rice, which is fine because we eat a lot of both here, and wait. We’ve had no diarrhea, no gas, no tummy rumbling, no nothing, since yesterday afternoon. Tummy rumbling and gas has never been a problem with the dog anyways. She was pretty hungry so I’m giving small meals of chicken/rice/broth and there are no problems. (No stool either, but her intestines were pretty empty after yesterday’s bout of diarrhea.)

Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it!

[lmnordrum]

My 6 month old Giant Schnauzer, currently 47 pounds, seems to be having some ‘gastric distress’ with mucus-y diarrhea.

She’s eating Wellness Core Puppy (on the list) and has done well with it and I read every post here before I selected it. The dog developed the diarrhea about 12 days ago and we’ve been to the vet. The dog has no symptoms on chicken and rice, but I need a kibble. I’m thinking that perhaps the protein and fat may be too high but I’m asking for a screening for giardia, coccidia and parasites. Came home with flagyl, pepcid, old fashioned Kaopectate (which is not the same stuff sold for humans any longer) and a new probiotic. Is there a food presently on HDMs list that is lower in fat and protein? I know I may have to go to a food with grain but would rather not feed the dog corn or wheat. The poor thing is really hungry on the chicken and rice and broth diet and can’t stay on it forever because there’s really no nutrition for a growing pup. I believe I still need to watch the calcium levels as she’s six months, but I also have to get her fed too.

I followed poor DukeTheBoxer’s situation and really hope to not go down that road with my dog. (and I sure hope Duke is doing better.)

Thanks.

[Tigerlily]

Hi all! I am looking for some information to help assist a puppy buyer of mine. She has a 4.5 month old standard poodle puppy that I bred. I sent puppies home on Wellness Large Breed Puppy because the calcium levels are at least somewhat moderate and advised her to be careful about feeding foods with excessive levels of calcium. (I realize the levels are still higher than the foods on HDM’s list, but because a standard poodle is in all actuality a medium sized dog, I don’t feel that it is as necessary to be as strict – just to choose a moderate food). Anyway, she told me she switched her pup to Orijen Large Breed Puppy. I suggested to her that the calcium levels in that particular food really are quite excessive and that I would recommend Acana instead. She told me that she consulted with a canine nutritionist before switching her pup and that they advised her that Orijen it was a more “premium” food than Acana. She mentioned that the calcium percent in Orijen LBP is no less than 1.2% and no more than 1.5% and Wellness min/max 1.1/1.5%. I explained that that is true, but that the total mg of calcium per kcal in Orijen is quite a bit higher. I just wanted to double check my facts here! Also, did Orijen LBP change their formula? Because what I have seen in the past was 1.5/1.7 for min/max.

[arwyru24]

Hey all, I am new here, have been lurking around this site for a little while for dog food because my parents just added a new puppy, but feeding cats on a budget happens to be my specialty. I have 2 pretty big guys (12 and almost 14lbs) The 12lb guy has a really sensitive system, but his body condition is ideal, and the 14lber tends towards the tubby side and so I have to really pay attention to his weight (they are both indoor only). I have tried most of the higher end foods on the market at one time or another. I subscribe to the idea that cats need the moisture in their diet and ideally should be on all wet food, however I supplement with dry to help meet my budget.
I primarily feed wellness grain free canned food, the 12.5oz cans are really cost effective, I primarily feed the turkey and salmon (purple can) it seems to be their favorite and the one they eat the most consistently without turning their noses up to it. I also rotate in the chicken (orange can), turkey (green), and chicken and herring (royal blue) and the minced turkey, chicken, and turkey salmon. I like wellness for a number of reasons and they have done really well on it. I rotate in a number of other brands: Evo (again those big cans save money), california’s natural salmon and sweet pea, (I am a little wary of Natura but I havent had any bad experiences) natural balance LID can’s, HALO pate, Instinct all work and are tolerated well.
The cat that loves crunchies isn’t picky at all really. He never met a kibble he didn’t like….. that is until I bought a 6lb bag of what I am feeding now: Wellness Core Indoor formula. I just bought a trial size bag of Orijen yesterday for $3.99 and am mixing it in with the Wellness. Its the first I have tried Orijen, because it is so expensive, but with the Orijen mixed in I am feeding less than 1/2 a cup of kibble a day total so it is affordable. Dry food lasts me forever it is the canned that really breaks the bank.
Sorry to chime in uninvited to this forum but am glad to have a place to share my experience 🙂

[Gayle M]

Just Food For Dogs, there was a person on Your Facebook page that says she only feeds her dog this food. It is cooked fresh, frozen and then delivered to your home. I have not tried it but it looks like it might be wonderful. I am so tired of these companies changing our dog food constantly. I am getting a new labradoodle puppy the first week in June. Until I found this website for fresh food I was going to go with Wellness Core Puppy Dry Food. I also believe my Labrador that we lost in October 2013 at 10 years old had a much shortened life because of the various recalls back in 2011 having to do with Diamond, she had liver damage done and since she had gotten sick she never did eat the same.

[Eva L]

I just joined (and I may be stepping in it here), but I’ve had many discussions (with family and friends) about the expense of our dog food…we feed Orijen and Acana. Frankly, I would prefer Orijen alone but one (14 year old “pound puppy”) does better with Acana.

At any rate, I’ve tried explaining that, yes, these foods are definitely expensive…if you ONLY consider the price per bag. However, since our dogs require substantially less food per serving than would be necessary with cheaper brands, the food lasts longer and the cost starts to even out over time.

For reference, our (nearly 9 years old) Pyrenees eats 4 cups of food a day in the winter and 3 cups a day in the summer…has done so for 5 years, since we got him from rescue. I start cutting back when he starts leaving food in the bowl. He’s 120 lbs of muscle. Blood work comes back perfect every year and the vet said he’s at optimal weight and condition for his size and age.

Worth mentioning, he’s our second Pyrenees, from the same rescue, and neither could tolerate grains. (Not sure if it’s breed-related or just happened to be the case with our guys.) I know this because they provided a bag of whatever the dogs had been eating at their foster homes and both had bowel/stool problems which cleared up as soon as I transitioned them to grain-free kibble. On the other hand, buying grain free does limit our options.

I know I sound like I’m beating the drum for Champion Foods, but I simply offered their foods as examples because that’s what we feed. Dog Food Advisor has a number of excellent brands listed that you could try instead. Though, I promise you, all of the highly rated foods will cost more per bag.

In the end, factoring in cost-over-time and lack of food related medical problems…with the attendant vet bills…I don’t think the best foods are actually more of an expense.

Just my 2 cents.

[Shasta220]

Geez….pro plan went GF? I’d guess this is their first GF food. I seriously have lost all respect for them! They trick so dang many people! Most people don’t think about researching out the ingredients, they’re going to trust the back of that bag to be telling truthful things. Ugh!

I mean, if they even had /one/ decent food line, then I might not hate them as much. But everything is about money, not “your pet. Our passion” smh!!!

And I’m especially upset because I have to feed it to a puppy that I take care of -_- Pro Plan Focus large breed puppy. They are a wealthy family who thinks they’re giving the best to their lil girl. I’d try to slowly move her to my food instead, but it’d be bad for her if anything. As soon as she’d get used to my food, she’d have to go back to her home and eat that junk :/ she’s only 13wks and already has that signature “Labrador” stink as well as a super dry flaky coat! Poor baby!

• This reply was modified 11 years, 11 months ago by Shasta220.

[KPC]

Hello, all!

I recently aquired a pup (Kaiser) & am feeding 4Health puppy formula. My adult dog (Jinx) is on the 4Health Salmon & Potato currently.

I was wondering if there was a distinct advantage of feeding formulated for puppies food over adult, or all stages. The caloric count is about 20 higher on the pup formula. I entered all the ingredients into a spreadsheet & there was only one notable difference (besides the different meat products) which was Chondroitin Sulfate, for joint support apparently.

So, the question is, should I keep feeding puppy formula or perhaps add supplements or vitamins to an adult formula for him?

(His mother is 50lbs, father unknown; just for a size/growth reference)

Thanks, all!

[Jazz Lover]

Hi, could someone direct me as to how to most easily convert the suggested amount of calories into the correct amount of dog food for Jazz (1yr “today” neutered, male, blk lab / approx ideal weight 80lbs. Currently 87lbs.) Orijen shows 456 kcal/cup. My best figure is 3.5 cups/day. Also, at age 1yr am I to go w/ Adult or puppy recommend amounts?

I top food regularly, and an easy conversion could help me to best ensure he’s getting the right amouts 🙂 (Stell & Chewy, Merrick canned, sardines, chicken back… open to more ideas!)

BTW, he seems to be healing well after his Jan elbow dysplasia surgery. We are walking 5 days/wk 30mins-1hr each outing. He doesn’t seem to be limping while out walking, however maybe a “chubby-sway” is what my son calls it. (Hence, I’d like to ensure I’m feeding him correctly.) Although, at times when he gets up after lying/napping he limps. I feel as if his muscles are strengthening w/ walking. Sadly, no playing ball or dog park 🙁

Thank you

[Akari_32]

Just add a little bit of water to dry food. Let it sit for a few minutes, mix it up, and let him at it. I used to have to that for my 8 pound Jack Russell mix.

If you want to go the grain inclusive Wellness route, the Complete Health Small and Toy Breed recipe is the best looking one, and super high in calories (meaning you feed even less than the others). It has a puppy counter part, as well, that is a bit lower in calories. I don’t know if the first one is All Life Stages or not. Thats now to say the rest of the Complete Heath recipes are bad foods, but those be my first pick of the Complete Health line. But I’d still go for the CORE recipes over the Complete Health ones. 🙂

[Ryan C]

Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum, I came across it when trying to find out if the puppy food we recently purchased was all that the bag said it was. We bought Purina beneful puppy food with soft morsels, and I’m sure you can imagine my horror when I found out that not only was the packaging less than honest about its nutritional content, but that it was downright bad for our dog!

We adopted him at about 11 weeks, he’s now 6 months old, and we believe that he is a labrador/jack russell mix. He was always picky about his kibble – we started him on the kirkland dry puppy food, then went to Taste of the Wild, which he sort of ate, and then moved to Purina – which he seems to really enjoy. Problem is, it’s not good for him!

I think the main reason he enjoys it is because it has softer bits in it, though that’s just a guess. So, my question is, what dry puppy food do you think would be the best fit for him? I’d like to find something that’s 4-or-5 stars, but nothing extraordinarily expensive. I was thinking about getting the Wellness Complete puppy recipe – it’s relatively affordable, and he went nuts over the Wellness salmon puppy treats, so I figured he would enjoy the same brand of kibble that’s also made with salmon.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated!

[Naturella]

… or Kibbles ‘N’ Bits… yuck!

The hubs and I had left our Bruno with the people who gave him to us for a day once, with some of his food (4-4.5-star at the time, I think it was Nutro Natural Choice Small Breed Puppy), and when we went to collect him, we got a puppy, who had feasted on whatever they feed their dogs, Purina One I think, and that is what he used to eat while with them. I doubt they even opened the sandwich bag of Nutro we sent with him. Which would’ve been fine if they had fed a better food than we did, lol! And nothing happened to Bruno, I mean, he had been eating that for a month or so of his life anyway, it was just so funny because he had GORGED on it – he looked and felt noticeably “fat” – his belly was so full, lol!

But yeah, I don’t know if you should mess with what they are feeding their pup… EVEN if it were Beneful or some other crap (it would make me shiver every time I give the poor baby a serving though)… I guess, if you want to suggest a better food for them, you can maybe tell them this: “Your pup got in my other dogs’ food a few times, he seemed to like it a lot, and I have done a lot of research on dog food and it seems that it would be more nutritionally-appropriate for the puppy than Purina Pro Plan because a, b, c. …” This way, you COULD get away with feeding it a little better food if that is what you want… And if she will take it.

[Jackie T]

I tried Blue in my boarding kennel for the dogs that don’t bring their own food, all dogs loved it and switched to it without digestive upset, I also bought a couple of bags of wilderness puppy and adult for my own dogs, prior to joining this forum – 2 days ago. After reading that Blue Buffalo Foods are produced by a variety of manufacturers (5), I decided to return to Orijen and or Acana for my house pups and my boarders. I want to know that I am feeding a quality of food that delivers what the label states and not hidden ingredients or additives, color or flavor.

[Hao D]

Hey guys,

I’m getting my puppy this Saturday! Super excited! He’s an Alaskan Malamute. He’s 8 weeks old. I decide to go with Orijen long time ago. However, when I was at the local store the other day, I noticed that the “Puppy Large” is actually cheaper than all other kinds of dry food from Orijen. From what I’ve learned so far, I thought puppy food usually contains more nutrition, don’t they? Why is “Regional Red” so much more expensive? I assume the major difference is “Puppy Large” is based on chicken and “Regional Red” is based on Beef. However, I don’t know which one is better?

Should I feed him “Puppy Large” or “Regional Red”? My currently plan is feed him “Puppy Large” dry food and “Regional Red” Freeze Dried. Any better suggestion?

[FinnyAndLolasMom]

Hi everyone- new member here, and I’m hoping for some advice about feeding my 12 week old Irish Doodle pup (Irish Setter mixed with Standard Poodle). Both parents are approximately 65 pounds, so I assume he’ll be considered a LBP.

Long story short- he came from the breeder on Adult Purina One Lamb and Rice, and I transitioned him onto Science Diet LBP food on the advice of our vet. He had terrible diarrhea and loose stools for a couple of weeks, and after some research, I found these forums and tried a couple of things and finally settled on Earthborn Holistics Meadow Feast. I was even doing boiled chicken and rice, but the diarrhea didn’t completely go away until I stopped the rice and got him completely on the Earthborn, which led me to think it might be a sensitivity to the rice/grains. He finally has great poop (Lol) and I’m really happy with it. He is too- he gobbles it up!

However, we went back to the vet yesterday and she insisted we have him on a puppy food and that an “All Stages” food is not good for puppies. I’ve read most of this thread, and been all over the site, and I think I’ve learned enough to doubt her advice, but she does have me second-guessing myself a little bit. The only thing that worries me is that he is really thin and a little smaller than his litter mates, so I want make sure I’m giving him enough protein, fat, and calories, while watching the calcium of course! I noticed EH Meadow Feast has the lowest protein and fat of all of their varieties, so I picked up their Great Plains variety (Bison and lamb) which has higher protein and fat content, thinking I would mix it with the Meadow Feast since the rest of the ingredients looked similar. THEN I noticed the Great Plains variety is not on HDM’s awesome list for large breed pups, just the Meadow Feast and Coastal Catch.

So, here are all my questions:
Is Earthborn a good choice for him? I’ve also considered Wellness Core, Fromms Gold LBP, and Merrick- might one of these be better?
Is the Meadow Feast enough protein and fat?
Should I stay away from the Great Plains- was the calcium content too high to be included on the LBP list?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

[Hound Dog Mom]

Hi Lynda –

What food are you currently feeding your puppy?

Have you checked out the recommended foods on the Large Breed Puppy forum and checked to see which are on the Budget Friendly Editor’s Choice List? That would be my recommendation.

[maggieful]

Hello all, I have two adult, male Chihuahuas that are both right around 5lbs each. I fed them Innova since we brought them home at 8 wks – first the puppy small bites and then the adult small bites and they were perfect on that. I used to order it online and then got it at PetSmart until PetSmart stopped selling it a few months ago due to all of the recalls. My dogs never got sick on the Innova and their coats were always shiny and healthy and they always had plenty of energy. I’ve been feeding them Blue Buffalo Small Breed Wilderness formula since February and they’ve been shedding a lot and their coats aren’t as soft. I want to switch them to a diet that’s more beneficial to them. I’ve been thinking about switching them to Taste of the Wild Southwest Canyon formula. Does anybody have any experience with this dog food or have any suggestions as to what would be better for them? Thanks so much!

[Akari_32]

Also, with the buying online note, he’s only about 8 pounds, so to get any free shipping for his food would just be ridiculous lol

The only Diamond foods down here that are sold in smaller bags are TOTW and Canidae. Pet Supermarket does have Diamond Naturals, but only the humungo bags, and they’re $40. I don’t think that food is worth a $1 a pound lol But if Diamond wasn’t so bad about recalls, I’d have Bentley on his TOTW High Prairie Puppy every now and then. He loved that stuff.

Mom used to feed my dogs on dog chow, but I’ve since taken over now that I can afford it. Been a few years now, and they never skip meals, and look much better. In fact, Haley hasn’t had a hot spot since. She usually chewed herself up out of boredom, but I’m sure some of it was food related.

As far as any boutiques go, there are none locally. There are some if you drive all the way out past PetSmart (a 15 or so minute drive) or in the opposite direction (a 30 minute drive). Not much around my city. Lots of places for people to eat, but not for pets lol

Moms always like “why can’t have normal food??” (Meaning, whatever the other dogs are eating, or something from the grocery store). I tell her that’s what she gets for having a dog with allergies. (I’m the one who bought him for her LOL).

[Shadow@01]

Hi there

I have a 8 month old Australian Shepherd bitch which I bred myself. Sire & dam has no skin allergies, neither any dogs I trace back to in the line. 4 puppies out of 7 in the litter seem to be having a bit of a skin allergy so I am thinking the reason for the allergy might be genetic, rather than just be a seasonal thing.

All this time I have been feeding Royal Canin Junior, supplementing with Salmon oil capsules. I am thinking of switching over to ACANA PACIFICA ( 60% Fish / 40% Veg / 0% Grain). This being a all life stages food, would this be highly recommended for a growing active working puppy? I would like to see if the no grain, chicken & beef makes any difference to her itchy skin.

I have received feedback from another source that all lifestage feeding is not recommended for a growing puppy, especially a working puppy.

Any thoughts on this???

[Ann S]

Thought I would just add my experience with Earthborn grain free. One of my dogs can’t eat turkey, so I tried Earthborn’s Great Plains and Meadow Feast, only to learn the hard way that he’s also allergic to peas, which the second ingredient. Since I have avoided foods with peas any higher than 4th or 5th, he’s had no problems. So while it’s very affordable, sadly I cannot buy this brand.
Am a little bummed after splurging to join that I can’t use most of the foods on the editor’s choice list due to these two allergies. Budget is also an issue for us feeding two adult dogs and one puppy who will soon be bigger than the grownups. We give raw once or twice a week.

[Liz O]

After researching foods for a new puppy, I realized that I was feeding my 9 yr old Cocker spaniel a not very good food (Iams Healthy Naturals). Since switching to Kirkland lamb and rice I’ve notived that she’s stopped licking the top of her front paws, something she used to do daily when she was just laying down seemingly relaxed. Was licking her paws a reaction to the food? I don’t see any other difference with her since switching foods.

[Elisa C. R]

**Reposting under correct category **

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum, and have a question for you all. Any suggestions/feedback you have would be most appreciated.

I adopted a puppy in January, and have been feeding her Precise Holistic (dry food for puppies). The dog that I lost in October had been eating Precise Senior for a few years and loved it!

My question is this. My pup eats way to fast. I have tried the slow eating type bowl, but doesn’t seem to help. I elevated her food bowl, doesn’t make a difference. She has terrible gas, and I don’t mean occasionally, I mean several times a day / night. Her stool is sometimes firm, and sometimes runny. I cannot figure out if the issue is from eating too fast and getting air in her stomach, or an issue with grain; should I possibly switch to a grain free food and see if that helps with the gas issue?

Thank you in advance for any advice/help you can give.

Regards,
Elisa

[Elisa C. R]

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum, and have a question for you all. Any suggestions/feedback you have would be most appreciated.

I adopted a puppy in January, and have been feeding her Precise Holistic (dry food for puppies). The dog that I lost in October had been eating Precise Senior for a few years and loved it!

My question is this. My pup eats way to fast. I have tried the slow eating type bowl, but doesn’t seem to help. I elevated her food bowl, doesn’t make a difference. She has terrible gas, and I don’t mean occasionally, I mean several times a day / night. Her stool is sometimes firm, and sometimes runny. I cannot figure out if the issue is from eating too fast and getting air in her stomach, or an issue with grain; should I possibly switch to a grain free food and see if that helps with the gas issue?

Thank you in advance for any advice/help you can give.

Regards,
Elisa

[pfeiner]

So I have been feeding Primal to my two Labs. The pup, who is 7 months old, is not your typical Lab eater. He eat somewhat gingerly and does not scarf down his food. He is a healthy, active, 7 month old puppy. Lately, he has decided he does not like his Primal. I give him an assortment of proteins and he eats twice a day. He will eat it if I offer it to him by hand – I don’t want to create a monster here 🙂 Was thinking of trying him on Darwin – Any suggestions. BTY – I do add a few pumps of Salmon Oil to their food as well as a sprinkle of Missing Link. Thanks!!

[pfeiner]

So I have been feeding Primal to my two Labs. The pup, who is 7 months old, is not your typical Lab eater. He eat somewhat gingerly and does not scarf down his food. He is a healthy, active, 7 month old puppy. Lately, he has decided he does not like his Primal. I give him an assortment of proteins and he eats twice a day. He will eat it if I offer it to him by hand – I don’t want to create a monster here 🙂 Was thinking of trying him on Darwin – Any suggestions. BTY – I do add a few pumps of Salmon Oil to their food as well as a sprinkle of Missing Link. Thanks!!

[Sharon Buchanan]

MastiffLove ~

First, I hope more people will chime in here with helpful advice. Now, to get to your questions as best I can.

It looks like your family is adding a lot of new members to the family. How great for all of them to be able to grow up and play together – and be fed raw. Looks like you’ll have your own little support group!

1. From all my reading on forums and Facebook, finding green tripe can be tricky. Some places ban the sale of it directly to consumers while others seem to be able to get it locally. I’m currently getting mine from MyPetCarnivore.com. I’m hoping that when I find someone who will sell direct, that they’ll also be able to provide the tripe. You’ll just have to ask and if they can’t, perhaps they’ll know where to get it.

2. Sure, you can grind necks. They aren’t terribly meaty, but they’ll grind easily enough. You should be able to start giving them whole when your pup gets a bit older. Chicken necks are tiny and I give them whole to my seven month old cat. I’ve been giving whole duck and turkey necks to Mystery since I started raw, he was 10 months at the time – he’s getting a turkey neck as part of his dinner tonight.

Different nutritionists/homeopathic vets will have various opinions on what, when, how and why to feed certain ingredients. I tend to lean toward Kymythy’s advice at the moment. She raises Newfies and feeds them raw as early as four weeks. The proof is in the health of her pups and adults.

3. I’m still not feeding veggies or “super” greens. Not a “purist” or anything but I wanted to first be sure I was feeding correctly the balance of meat/bone/organs and then get a blood panel or hair sample analysis – I’ll be scheduling that next week. Mystery’s only issues are a skin flaking problem – solved with coconut oil, and motion sickness – I’m still working on that and hoping he’ll grow out of it. So, until I get an analysis that says he needs more of this or that, I’m holding off on supplementing. I do give Mystery garlic for natural pest control and I also supplement with curcumen and vitamin C because Goldens have a high cancer mortality rate. I know a lot of people use “super” this and that as well as create their own veggie mashes. I would lean toward making my own purees since I believe nutrition from the source is best.

4. Most fruits have a lot of sugar in them. I would avoid most or feed them judiciously. I’ll share a banana with Mystery from time to time as well as give him apple slices, but not as a regular part of his diet. Here’s a basic chart that lists not only veggies and fruits that are toxic to pets but also plants as well as symptoms to watch for: http://www.acreaturecomfort.com/toxic.htm. And of course, you’ll find other sites that list fewer or additional foods.

5. Ah, SWEET potatoes. I haven’t read anything that shows a good reason to add most starches. That includes potatoes, peas, some beans. Many of these veggies convert starches to sugar when cooked. I used to give a tablespoon of pumpkin when our Sunset would have loose stools, but Mystery has had no problems there – and especially not since going raw.

6. I must defer to Kymythy on adding anything at all to an eight week old puppy’s diet. If you’re balancing 80/10/10 your calcium/phosphorus ratio is in perfect sync. Adding anything may not only increase the amount of calcium but may throw off that balance. Mess with that ratio and excess calcium can be deposited on the outside of the bones causing a number of issues. We had no idea that there was an issue with LBPs and calcium when we got Sunset 11 years ago. Before she was two, she required double-hip surgery. We got her from a backyard breeder (another ignorant move on our part), didn’t know much about hip scores and fed her what surely is on the one- or two-star lists here at DFA. I’ve been ultra focused on calcium since before I got Mystery.

An excerpt from Kymythy’s book, Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats:
By the time the young are ready to go to their new homes, they should be eating whole necks and regular meals with all the extras, and you may discontinue the enzymes and probiotics (although they may help counteract the digestive stress a youngster endures when going to a new home). Youngsters may be fed three times per day from eight weeks until four to six months old, then twice daily from four to six months old until one year of age, and once daily after one year of age. Giant breeds of dogs may need to be fed twice daily occasionally during growth spurts from one to three years of age. Either feed two complete meals or one complete and one of meaty bones (bones with ample meat) only. Observe your pet and adjust amounts accordingly. Do not feed so much that the stomach becomes overly extended. Do not let your pet become obese. A very thin layer of fat over the ribs is healthy, but too much weight puts extra stress on growing bones, joints, and hearts. A healthy wild animal is a lean animal. If your pet needs to lose weight, reduce its food intake. If it needs to gain weight, increase its food. Keep in mind that growing youngsters will eat more per pound of body weight than adult animals.

Schultze, Kymythy (1999-10-01). Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats (p. 67). Hay House. Kindle Edition.

Note the information on probiotics and enzymes is directed toward breeders who feed and wean pups to raw. If your puppy has been weaned to kibble, you might want to add some kefir to his diet for a time.

7. See #6, but I will take a look at the three products you mentioned for future use. I am not trying to discourage the use of any supplementation, just use caution and be sure you’re feeding only what is essential and beneficial.

8. I’m assuming you’re referring to the products in question 6 and maybe 7, not 8. LOL! I couldn’t find a guaranteed analysis of the Urban Wolf Balancer so I would be very wary of adding it. They do provide a recipe that uses their products with an analysis and it looks good. If you feel a strong need to supplement… Questions regarding their recipe ingredients might include, where do they get their fish oil from; is it guaranteed not to contain any toxins; if you use “canned” fish, do the cans contain BPA; if natural ingredients are better, why so many dried/powdered ingredients in their mixes? This is the hard part for me – giving my money to companies that sell premixes and toppers when I can just hit the market for fresh ingredients.

9. When you’re deciding on recipes, remember that your eight week old puppy is capable of handling chunks of raw meats, organs and bones. Even if he’s been weaned onto kibble before you get him, there should be no need to transition him as he hasn’t developed an addiction to the sugars and starches yet. I’d been feeding my kitten a kibble diet for about five months when I decided to transition the cats. Since he’d been stealing raw food from the dog, I went straight to raw with him and he jumped all over it, including chicken necks and other appropriately sized bones. I feed grinds only when the weather’s so bad that I can’t even put Mystery on the screened deck, usually when it’s too cold. The cats get fed in the tiled bathroom since they don’t feel the need to drag food all over the place – yet!

Any time you freeze or cook food, you’re going to lose a bit of nutritional value. Most of us have large freezers because we buy in bulk so frozen it is. Be sure you thaw foods and try to bring them to room temp before feeding. As Alpha in my house, I pull food from the refrigerator and let it sit on the counter until I’ve finished my coffee – then they get to eat. I know some people feed frozen foods but I wouldn’t do that to a puppy. Ever get brain freeze from drinking a shake too fast? Imagine a puppy’s digestive system trying to warm up frozen meat. There may be other opinions out there on this, but I would definitely feed three times a day for the first six months and then move to twice a day until he’s at least a year old. You should be feeding him 10% of his current weight until that exceeds 2-3% of his target weight.

I love Mercola. There is a chart floating around that shows who is fighting GMO labeling and who is supporting it in WA. I use it when I go shopping and yes, some of the products I’ve purchased in the past come from companies fighting WA. Let me know if you can’t find it. I get that having to label a product 50 different ways could put a hardship on business so I would support a federal label that is nothing less than FULL disclosure. That said, I don’t trust the FDA or any other governmental agency to have my best interest at heart. I’m a big fan of personal responsibility. The government assumes I’m ignorant…, I believe it’s a choice. (Whoops, gone political.)

I’m glad you were able to find a farm so quickly to meet your raw needs. Don’t forget to pick up chicken feet, green tripe, testicles, heart, kidneys… Go for goat and rabbit as well as chicken, turkey and beef. Something that I would have gotten wrong is differentiating between what are considered organs and what is not.

Organs: Liver (5% of the diet), kidneys, spleen, brain, thymus gland, panaceas and testicles (the other 5%)

Not organs: Heart, Gizzard, Tongue, lung, trachea, green tripe (all considered as part of the 80%).

Another site for learning more about feeding raw is here: https://www.mypetcarnivore.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78&Itemid=116. It’s a culling of articles from a variety of sources.

I better turn my attention to the vacuum and washer now or I’m going to be overrun by tumblefurs. I look forward to seeing you on Facebook soon.

[Sharon Buchanan]

MastiffLove’s Questions transferred from /forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/page/66/

Hi Sharon! I will be looking into the facebook group after we get our puppy, Zeus is his name :), cause our teens don’t know about it yet and adding that group to our facebook will certainly give them a hint lolll
Someone wrote (i think it was you!?): “Last week I found a farm that grass feeds, no GMOs, but they do feed grains in the three weeks prior to slaughter (I’m still checking to see if that is standard practice and if not, why it’s done and whether it effects the quality of the meat (other than the tripe) – more questions for my conference list)”
What were you told?

We will buy in bulk, meaning half a cow, lots of chickens (loose fat removed), half a pig (less pig since it has more fat)(will add organs to those) for a start and later on i will add more types of meats as i find farmers or producers around my area. I will make this food for my 8weeks old English Mastiff puppy BUT my wife’s parents are getting a Colley puppy in July and later on during the summer a German Sheppard puppy, also a friend of ours is researching for a good breeder of Great Danes. That being said we would be 4 different dogs on the same recipe.
1- Can i get Green Tripe from a meat manufacture(not sure if thats how its called)?
2- Can i grind necks?
3- instead of using pureed vegetable can i use a Supergreen powder mixted with the meat then freeze?
4- Should fruits be pureed? or chopped in fine pieces is ok? (like apples for example)
5- wy use Sweet potatoes, isn’t it a source of carbs? Should it always be boiled or can it be oven baked?
6- Thinking of buying in bulk therefore i would have the company to grind the meat including bones…would using:
URBAN WOLF Balancer give a too high output on Calcium and an unbalanced Calc./Phos.?
or
Should i use Dr. Harvey’s Formative Years for Puppies?
NOT to forget my puppy is 8weeks old!
7- As for Greens should i use Mercola’s SpiruGreen Superfood and/OR Swanson’s Sprouted Flax Powder mixed with Wheat Grass Powder?
8- Kymythy Schultze a certified clinical nutritionist said:” Calcium can go out of solution when feeding too many vegetables. Keeping normal acidity (low alkaline) in the digestion by avoiding veggies in puppies keeps calcium in solution and won’t deposit excess on the bones.”
(p.s.: thank you Sharon Buchanan for the quote!)
Would adding the product from Question 8 result in unbalancing my pups acidity?
9- i would mix everything up in large batches (some batch will have some ingredients and some will have different ones to “balance” it out in day on day off type of feeding), and separate in individual portion size for an 8 weeks old large pup in air tight sealed bags and then into the freezer. Doing so would i loose any efficiency of certain foods like greens and fish oil?
*** End comment: I was happy and felt like applauding Mercola.com for funding 300,000$ for the Washington State GMO Labeling Initiative, they are one of the companies, amongst many others, that i buy products from as supplements for my puppy raw diet. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cornucopia.jpg ***

[MastiffLove]

We will buy in bulk, meaning half a cow, lots of chickens (loose fat removed), half a pig (less pig since it has more fat)(will add organs to those) for a start and later on i will add more types of meats as i find farmers or producers around my area. I will make this food for my 8weeks old English Mastiff puppy BUT my wife’s parents are getting a Colley puppy in July and later on during the summer a German Sheppard puppy, also a friend of ours is researching for a good Great Dane breeder. That being said we would be 4 different dogs on the same recipe.

1- Can i get Green Tripe from a meat manufacture(not sure if thats how its called)?

2- Can i grind necks?

3- instead of using pureed vegetable can i use a Supergreen powder mixted with the meat then freeze?

4- Should fruits be pureed? or chopped in fine pieces is ok? (like apples for example)

5- wy use Sweet potatoes, isn’t it a source of carbs? Should it always be boiled or can it be oven baked?

6- Thinking of buying in bulk therefore i would have the company to grind the meat including bones…would using:
URBAN WOLF Balancer give a too high output on Calcium and an unbalanced Calc./Phos.?
or
Should i use Dr. Harvey’s Formative Years for Puppies?
NOT to forget my puppy is 8weeks old!

7- As for Greens should i use Mercola’s SpiruGreen Superfood and/OR Swanson’s Sprouted Flax Powder mixed with Wheat Grass Powder?

8- Kymythy Schultze a certified clinical nutritionist said:” Calcium can go out of solution when feeding too many vegetables. Keeping normal acidity (low alkaline) in the digestion by avoiding veggies in puppies keeps calcium in solution and won’t deposit excess on the bones.”
(p.s.: thank you Sharon Buchanan for the quote!)
Would adding the product from Question 8 result in unbalancing my pups acidity?

9- i would mix everything up in large batches (some batch will have some ingredients and some will have different ones to “balance” it out in day on day off type of feeding), and separate in individual portion size for an 8 weeks old large pup in air tight sealed bags and then into the freezer. Doing so would i loose any efficiency of certain foods like greens and fish oil?

*** End comment: I was happy and felt like applauding Mercola.com for funding 300,000$ for the Washington State GMO Labeling Initiative, they are one of the companies, amongst many others, that i buy products from as supplements for my puppy raw diet. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cornucopia.jpg ***

[Haywood U]

Thanks. With all the recalls and other things going wrong with things we give our pets (treats and toys), I just get worried. I read some of those things where the dogs stop eating because the food is causing problems, but eventually the dog is going to get hungry and eat. Then I look and see the other dog is eating the same food and no issues…but each dog is different. Of course the kicker was seeing her have no problems eating the same exact food from the other dog’s bowl.

I do sort of rotate food out – we buy several different brands and mix the food.

Previous dogs were always fed the “bad” food – Alpo, Ol Roy, KnB. All lived to 12-15 years and never had any vet tell me they were anything other than healthy. Somehow we managed to miss all the food recalls.

The new dog was quickly transitioned from Hill’s (rescue shelter said that is what they used, but she never seemed interested, always ran to the other dog’s food), to Puppy Chow, to finally forcing me to renew my Costco membership to get Kirkland.

So now it’s basically a 40lb bag of Kirkland and a 20lb bag of other stuff and mix it up in a 2:1 ratio (good to “bad”). Used to be out of financial necessity, but now it’s basically just for the variety. I guess we could just as easily mix up the Kirkland Chicken with the Kirkland Lamb and get the same results, but it’s also nice to know that if we ever run out, or are out of town, we can just run to the closest Walmart and grab a bag of food.

I’d like to stick with the twice a day feeding – seems to work the best for the older dog, and no need to upset the routine. I know I wouldn’t want to have to eat my entire daily food in one sitting and have it all sitting my system trying to digest.