🐱 NEW!

Introducing the Cat Food Advisor!

Independent, unbiased reviews without influence from pet food companies

Search Results for 'supple'

Viewing 50 results - 2,951 through 3,000 (of 4,398 total)
  • Author
    Search Results
  • #38220
    Dori
    Member

    Hi Deborah H. and welcome. If you are all things dog obsessed than boy have you come to the right place. I’ve got three little ones and they are my babies. One has lots of issues, the one has none other than being totally obsessed with playing fetch, and my older girl I’m just yesterday and today dealing with liver issues (14 1/2 year old Maltese). Waiting for results of tests done this morning. Your question on THK. Yes it was on March 2014 list and it’s not on April 2014 list. We don’t know why it was taken off. A few of us have been discussing this and we are waiting for some feed back from Dr. Mike or HDM.

    I’m glad you’re thinking about incorporating a raw diet or at least freeze dried diet for one of their daily meals. There are some home cooked raw feeders here on this site and I’m sure they’ll chime in and steer you in the right direction if home cooking is what you’d like to do. NO, you do not have to stop getting doggie kisses because you feed raw. Just make sure that YOU wash your hands, counter and anything else that touched the raw food thoroughly. Just as you would do when doing your own cooking for you and your family with raw meats and fishes. The more you incorporate and rotate raw and freeze dried foods in your dogs diets the healthier they will become. A healthy dog is more able to deal with minor issues in foods than one with an unhealthy gut. It’s the humans that have to be really careful with foods containing Salmonella and such more so than a healthy dog. You’ll be amazed at the changes that take place when you incorporate raw to their diets. Changes that you didn’t even know weren’t as they should be.

    Welcome to our obsessed world. I’m about as obsessed a person can be about my girls, short of being locked up in some institution some where. Even then, they’d have to let me take my dogs, get me a freezer, their supplements, their beds, their toys, all their grooming supplies, shampoos, their special stainless steel bowls, etc. I think you get a picture of me now! SO SO TOTALLY OBSESSED AM I! AND I LOVE IT! It’s the only way to be. In my world, anyway!!!! 🙂 🙂 🙂

    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Dori.
    #38162

    In reply to: Anxiety Supplements?

    One of my dogs have fear induced dog aggression but only towards certain dogs (usually those who are energetic/dominant and want to run up to him on walks. He will lunge at another dog when it comes to on leash face to face confrontation. Its been a bit of an uphill battle, but I finally have found something that seems to be making a difference.
    Right now I’m working hard with clicker/treat and desensitization routine.
    Before, I would use a prong collar in order to control him and after talking to my vet who is also a behaviorist she suggested using a halti instead. She made a good point that using prong is basically telling a dog every time he sees another dog is equals to being stabbed in the neck. Long term use could also lead to tracheal damage and thyroid disorder which could also cause aggression (not sure if you’ve done a thyroid check on him).
    I used the halti for a while and it worked fine, but he absolutely hated wearing it. Right now I’m using a harness called harness lead which is made of a rope. Basically when the dog pulls, it tightens around the girth and tell them to slow down. It was almost like an instant transformation for my dog. I took him out in the harness, saw someone walking towards us with a dog. As they were passing, he lunged and I lightly tugged at the leash and then told him to sit. He sat down, I clicked and treated him.
    I’ve been using it ever since, its worked better than any gentle leader/halti/prong/choke, etc.
    You probably already know about reactivity zones that your dog has. How close do you need to get to another dog before he reacts. With mine I’ve been taking him out of that zone and very slowly have been shortening the distance, getting closer and closer to other dogs on walks and having him sit and watch me without reaction.
    We had a breakthrough moment last week when I asked a friend of mine to bring her dog to a park to see how he would act towards her. As I anticipated, with on leash introduction, he went crazy and lunged at her dog. I told her to take the dog and start walking and I would follow her few steps behind. We did this for few minutes and since he wasn’t acting nervous or tense, I kept shortening the distance until we lined up right next to each other. He completely ignored her dog and kept on walking calmly. After she left, I decided to take it a step further and walk him on a narrow greenway with lots on new dogs coming face to face. Even though the distance was very small between us and the other dogs, he responded well to minor harness correction and sit command coupled with clicker and treat. By the end of the walk he was so tired, he payed no attention to any other dog. I couldn’t be happier with that outcome, I think it’s starting to click with him that coming face to face with another dog does not equal danger and theres absolutely no need to lash out.
    I recently started adding in this supplement and rubbing few drops of rescue remedy on his ears before the walk, which I think has also contributed to him being more relaxed.

    I also strongly suggest a book called Click to Calm by Emma Parsons if you haven’t read it already.

    Best of luck

    #38136

    In reply to: High Liver Levels

    theBCnut
    Member

    High protein does not cause liver problems or high liver levels, but after there is already a liver problem, the liver has a harder time dealing with as much protein. The high levels could be from something else, they could be a temporary increase due to some insult to her liver, like a toxic exposure, they could be because of some other disease process all together. You just can’t know yet. You may have to start adding carbs to her diet to reduce the protein levels, but you may need to do nothing at all, you just don’t know yet. If it turns out that she really is having liver issues, have your vet get you a recipe for a homemade diet for her. It will still be way better than anything you could buy.

    She is much more likely to have come in contact with something on walks or whatever like that, than for the supplements that you gave her to have caused a problem. Unfortunately, this could be age, it could be longterm exposure to heartworm prevention, it could be from pesticides, even ones your neighbors used years ago, you may never know and liver problems can literally take a lifetime to pop up.

    And yes, I do mean that most vets just feel, look, and listen to dogs at their yearly and never run blood work until there is already a known problem, so they never have normals to compare to.

    Dori, at 14 1/2 years old, you would never want to treat her for heartworms and she would never have enough of them to have a serious case, so the first thing I would do would be to never give her another dose. BTW, when was her last dose in relation to when she had the blood work done? That alone could explain the elevated levels.

    #38133

    In reply to: High Liver Levels

    Dori
    Member

    Thanks so much Nectarmom. Very helpful to hear your story. I’m thinking, hoping anyway, that some of the supplements that I have been adding to her meals that are really high in protein also have contributed to this crazy level. She doesn’t act sick, or anything. She has been drinking more water. With multiple dogs in the house and changing water two times a day I wasn’t picking up that it was her drinking most of the water. I’ve been watching her lick a hawk today and she’s drinking way more water than she’s been drinking for a while. Just like when she was on kibble. On kibble she could go though an entire big bowl of water all by herself.

    My dogs only get rabies vaccine and I left the vets office so happy Friday with Hannah because since we moved to a different county since her last visit, rabies vaccine is only required every 3 years. Funny thing is I’m literally across the county line. I did ask the vet if the three year and the one year vaccines were different. She told me they are the exact same one it’s just that different municipalities have different rules. So so stupid to make you vaccinate every year when it’s the same damn one for three years.

    #38124

    In reply to: High Liver Levels

    Dori
    Member

    Ok Patty. So your basically telling me to calm down and wait and I could be freaking out thinking there’s nothing that will be able to help but that in actuality if it is the liver then there will be some things I can do to reverse the situation? Damn, sorry Patty, I now realize I am babbling. I’ve been checking the protein levels of all the raws that I feed and, of course, they are much higher than kibble but I don’t want to put her on kibble. I also took a look at protein levels for the Nzymes and I’ve had her on two other supplements that I had forgotten about from Ark Naturals Grey Muzzle line. One for cognitive and one for heart health. I just thought since she was older she might need some heart health and, also, due to her age I couldn’t really tell whether she sometimes seemed a little more out of things because of losing some hearing to old age or cognitive skills were being affected due to age. Everything has added protein. Could all that contribute to high liver levels. I should have left well enough alone and just fed her the raw with her glucosamine and not added other stuff. I have been giving them all milk thistle but since it comes in capsules I was dividing one capsule among the three dogs. Should I have been giving each one capsule? It just looked like so much. I should have posted that question. I know we all talked about milk thistle when losul’s Turbo was diagnosed with HW but I don’t think it was ever discussed as to how much or I just missed that part. I’m kicking myself right now thinking of all the things I may have done wrong. Like I said, other than hypothyroid Hannah has never ever had any health issues.

    What do you mean it’s rare for vets to do yearly bloodwork? If they don’t then what’s the point of the yearly physical? Why would I take them then? I could look and feel them as well, actually, better than she can? Hmmmm? I should have insisted on a 6 month bloodwork instead of yearly. I read something about that somewhere that when dogs get older they should go every six months instead of yearly but she didn’t think it was necessary in the least because Hannah’s always been so healthy. And here I go rambling and babbling.

    #38109
    Tina
    Member

    Yes both the Corgi and the Golden Retriever are on a joint supplement.

    #38099
    InkedMarie
    Member

    Tina, for your Golden & Corgi, getting weight off them is of the utmost importance, for their joints. I used Wellness Core Reduced fat with great success. While I have not used it, others have had luck with Annamaet Lean (this may need to be ordered as it’s not as widely available). Both can benefit from salmon oil added to their diet. You can use human form or buy those available online or at pet stores for dogs (I use human). Are they getting a supplement for their joints?

    For the cocker & mixed breed, I’ve read that people use Nutri Source with good luck for dogs with sensitive stomachs.

    I know nothing about colitis but hopefully someone else can answer. Its possible the foods I listed won’t work. If I was you, with dogs with issues, I’d consult a holistic vet who would be able to advise you on dogs with their issues and probably offer a non vet food. You could go to DogAware.com and contact Mary Strauss from there or Lew Olsen at b-Naturals.com.

    Both of them could give you some advice. Good luck!

    #37949
    theBCnut
    Member

    I did not see a straight up ingredient list, but if the ingredients that it did mention are all of them, it looks great. The main thing you are looking to avoid in a supergreen food supplement for dogs is green tea, because it can be caffinated.

    #37912
    jakes mom
    Member

    Hi All, I am finding this raw food forum so interesting, just read it thru from beginning to end! I’m not ready to feed raw yet, actually got started on DFA to check the rating for my dog’s kibble. However, I’m wondering about adding some raw to Jake’s diet. He’s a beagle mix, 30ish pounds, 9 years old, good health. Can I just throw a chicken liver or 2 in with his kibble? Give him a wing or back as a treat? A chunk of stew beef now and then? Can he have a chicken thigh for dinner in place of his kibble some days? And what is this 2 week freeze I’ve heard mentioned? Do I need to freeze all meat before I give it to him? Am I killing a parasite by doing this? He loves fruits and vegies , he gets whatever I’m eating that day. Better to cook/steam them or just let him have it raw? Will still give kibble, at least for now so not worried about him needing supplements. Also, can I feed my cats the same way? Some chicken or beef in addition to their regular food? Can a cat chew up a chicken wing safely? Or more likely, a piece of a wing? Thanks!

    Hello,
    First off I would like to say that the Food that you are feeding your dog, is contributing to the bladder stones and gaining weight.
    Diets high in grain and vegetables produce alkaline urine, which allows certain stones to form.
    1. thing to get changed right off the bat, is the food. Vets are very helpful with figuring out and helping to remedy problems that your dogs are facing. But many of them are uneducated with dog food nutrition. I have studied Dog and Cat nutrition very intensely due to my dog almost dying because our vet recommended Pedigree dog food.
    Science diet, Hills food from the vet and even in pet stores are CRAP. Any food that you can buy in a grocery store is CRAP. What you feed is what you get out of your dog. and I have helped MANY MANY pet parents learn how to better their dogs lives by just changing what they eat.
    Your dog needs to avoid food with Grains. If a dog food ingredients has Rice, Brown Rice, Barley, Corn, Grain, Whole Grain, or such grains in the first 5-10 ingredients, its not food your dog is suppose to be eating.
    GRAIN FREE FOOD is what your dog should be eating in order to loose weight and avoid bladder stones.
    I suggest Acana because they are Grain Free, First Mate because again they are Grain Free and have always been grain free (My dogs are on this) and other foods that are grain free!
    Your dog should also be eating twice a day only. As well needing to give it to her at a reduced amount till He/She looses weight.
    Once in the morning and once at night, food should be measured so you know how much your dog is eating.
    To help with arthritis, I would look into giving your dog some glucosamine and chondroitin.
    You can actually give the ones you get at your drug store and mix it in with wet food and give it to her one a spoon. Make sure to get the pill capsule ones so you can open it and mix in with wet food.
    As well, try and start giving Cranberry supplements to help with the unitary tract. You can as well use the ones you get at the drug stores or go with this brand for animals specifically
    http://cranimal.com/products.html

    You wouldn’t eat Macdonalds every day if you were trying to loose weight and care for your health would you? That is what you are giving your dog if you feed it Science diet, Hills or any food with Grains.

    I know this will help a lot because I’ve done it personally myself. But I hope you try it and see for yourself.
    Cheers

    #37861
    annie
    Participant

    Hi, I have a beautiful 6 month old cane corso/pitbull named Sadie. I have been feeding her orijen large breed puppy and recently switched to Fromm grain free and adding stella and chewys freezed dried which she likes but her butt is always red .iIhad them expressed by vet and was given powder but i feel so bad to have to keep having her go through that, as it seemed so uncomfortable she cried and i felt so bad ,does anyone have any experience with this issue? and any suggestion on diet or supplements that may help.
    Thanks

    #37790

    In reply to: Dogs with Acid Reflux

    Jeff T
    Member

    Our dog has acid reflux. He was throwing up ( I think he’s actually just regurgitating, not really throwing up) about once or twice a week in the middle of the night and every now and then during the day while we are at work. We switched his food to Nutro chicken and oatmeal formula a couple of years ago and it seemed to control it pretty well. He only had an incident every other month or so. We’ve tried to give him Tums, per the vets recommendation, but he never would eat them.

    About 2 months ago our dog got worse. He was throwing up (or regurgitate) every day. We have found that feeding him chicken and rice for a few days clears up these episodes and he’s back to normal. I started researching raw food and cooked food diets for him and now I’m making his food myself. I use chicken thighs (they are the cheapest), sweet potato, carrots, green beans, and blueberries. I throw it all in a slow cooker and when it’s done I remove the bones and mash it all up. I add 1/2 cup of dry food and 1/2 cup of rice when I’m ready to feed them and they love it. No more tummy issues and their farts smell 90% better. Or, is it 90% less bad? Either way, both dogs could clear out a room before.

    The only part of the diet I haven’t solved yet is the supplements. It seems like there are good and bad things said about Dinovite, but I haven’t tried that yet. I’ve been using Nupro, and it seems to work ok.

    #37760
    Shasta220
    Member

    Ah, I was going to say Greek, yes. I wouldn’t use activia since I don’t think it comes in plain – all is full of extra sugar.

    I may give it a go, and if he still gets his “troubles” (plugs nose) by the end of the container, I’ll look into an actual supplement.

    #37756

    In reply to: Rotating Foods

    Dori
    Member

    TJ. When I initially started rotating foods a long time ago I would switch every two or three bags, then I started switching every bag. Always very very slowly. I eventually switched to commercial raw foods for all my three dogs because one of them has many food intolerances and allergies. I feed all three girls twice a day as I always have regardless of what I feed them and can now say, and it’s been a few months now, that I can feed them different foods a.m. and p.m. with no issues whatsoever. No gas, bad breath, diarrhea, constipation, nothing. I rotate their proteins within a brand, I rotate brands and I rotate their supplements. Nothing seems to bother them any more. Just as humans eat different foods for different meals without issues, so do my dogs. I will also say that they are incredibly healthy. I have a 14 1/2 year old Maltese (she’ll be 15 on 9/9/14) and I have a 4 1/2 year old Maltipoo and a 4 1/2 year old Yorkipoo. Vet is always praising how well they are. They only go to the vet at this point once a year for physical and the only vaccine they receive is rabbi’s vaccine. Hope any of this has helped.

    Once you get your dogs accustomed to rotation, it has nothing whatsoever to do with their age. It is never too late to start rotating foods and they don’t take to rotation of diets any easier because they are young or old. Just take your time initially and before you know it you’ll be able to feed them different things all the time. Initially, like theBCnut, I used to add a complete probiotic and a digestive enzyme every day (not every meal). I haven’t done that in ages. Good Luck to you. Glad to meet you and welcome to the site if your new. If not, sorry I haven’t picked up on your name before.

    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Dori.
    #37641
    Dori
    Member

    Marie, there have been a number of what is known as a “silent recall” through the years and, unfortunately, you have to be googling and constantly researching and get on every dog food recall list on line that you possibly can in hopes that sometimes those in the know get wind of them. That’s what I do, anyway. I don’t rely on any one site for recalls. As you know The Truth About Pets is a really great one. I check that site out every single day as well as others. Anytime I find out about any company or brand that has done that I cross them off my list of foods. I don’t adhere to the thinking that anyone can have a problem so let’s give them another chance. Nope! Any company that has recalls worse, a silent recall, are not getting a chance to injure my girls. I’ve stopped feeding kibble and commercial treats for those reasons. I have been feeding commercial raw and now some home made with supplements and their digestive systems are now strong enough that if a commercial raw food company has minor issues I know they’ll be fine. I don’t really trust any kibble company. I’d always be nervous. The only company that’s not raw that I trust is The Honest Kitchen and I rarely feed that anymore because it contains alfalfa and Katie has recently become intolerant or down right allergic to it.

    #37638
    crazy4cats
    Participant

    Hi Shawna-
    Could you please help me with a few questions. My dogs’ had been suffering from loose stools for a long time. In my opinion, they most likely have leaky gut syndrome due to being treated several times with antibiotics and dewormers for parasites. I’m still frustrated about that as I believe I got very bad information from a vet, but that’s a different subject. They are doing much better, but not perfect now with me feeding Victor and various toppers. In addition I am giving them different supplements. The ones I give with l-glutamine are from Vetri Science and Thorne. In the above post are you implying that glutamine may not work? I was thinking of trying SeaCure now. If I do, should I discontinue the current supplements and digestive enzymes? I’ve also used phytomucil. Thanks for your help.

    #37627
    Shawna
    Member

    My Pomeranian Gizmo is also “poultry” intolerant. She gets bloody, liquid diarrhea (ulcerative colitis) from chicken. Duck, turkey, pheasant, quail and even ostrich cause eye goobers and coughing but doesn’t seem to affect her digestive tract (at least that is noticeable). At least not with short term feeding. She has absolutely no issue at all with any form of egg though. Not saying your baby will be the same just saying it is possible to be intolerant of poultry muscle proteins while being okay with egg, liver and other proteins from poultry.

    After getting Gizmo off of chicken (she was about two at the time) it took about a year for her immune system to calm down. It took several months before I stopped seeing mucous in the stool if I remember correctly. Sometimes the stool was also a little partially mushy, or off and on, during the withdrawal (or detox) phase.

    I used a fish based product called SeaCure to help repair her gut faster (again, it took about 2(ish) months for the gut but about a year for the immune system). Having your girl on medications could slow the healing process as the body also has to filter the drugs?? OHHH, NSAID’s of any sort (like Rimadyl) still to this day cause colitis in her after being on it for more than two to three days.

    Pepcid AC makes protein digestion harder as it neutralizes the hydrochloric acid that is required in the process of breaking down proteins. For this reason some feel it can be counter productive. At the very least it is going to make the pancreas have to work harder to get the protein from the food. Glutamine is a supplement that is given to help with stomach damage. Glutamine is also an amino acid in protein. If the protein can’t be digested than the glutamine is not released for the body (and gut) to use. Many of us chose to use apple cider vinegar instead of an antacid. Here’s an article written by a Certified Nutrition Consultant if interested (she mentions the use of ACV for dogs in the article) http://www.naturalnutritionadvisor.com/blog/?p=73 (SeaCure helps in much the same way — it is simply fish protein that has been broken down to its simplest form allowing for the glutamine and other amino acids be easily utilized by the body.)

    Hoping you are able to get it all figured out and get her healthy very quickly!! I can honestly say I know what you are going through!!!!

    Edit — I agree with Shasta. If you can do raw (or a commercial cooked diet) it is SO much easier to control the ingredients!!!

    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Shawna.
    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Shawna.
    Shadow@01
    Member

    Hi there

    I have a 8 month old Australian Shepherd bitch which I bred myself. Sire & dam has no skin allergies, neither any dogs I trace back to in the line. 4 puppies out of 7 in the litter seem to be having a bit of a skin allergy so I am thinking the reason for the allergy might be genetic, rather than just be a seasonal thing.

    All this time I have been feeding Royal Canin Junior, supplementing with Salmon oil capsules. I am thinking of switching over to ACANA PACIFICA ( 60% Fish / 40% Veg / 0% Grain). This being a all life stages food, would this be highly recommended for a growing active working puppy? I would like to see if the no grain, chicken & beef makes any difference to her itchy skin.

    I have received feedback from another source that all lifestage feeding is not recommended for a growing puppy, especially a working puppy.

    Any thoughts on this???

    #37530

    In reply to: Sojo Premix?

    Hound Dog Mom
    Participant

    Hi Shasta –

    It’s wonderful that you’re considering a homemade diet, in my opinion it truly is the healthiest way to go. The general rule is the less processed the better. Here Dr. Martin Goldstein provides a nice ranking of types of pet foods from best to worst: http://www.drmarty.com/what-should-i-feed-my-pet-for-best-health/.

    Pre-mixes are one of the best routes for beginners to take because there are a lot fewer opportunities to go wrong. When feeding completely homemade (from scratch) it’s crucial that ingredients are added in proper proportions and certain supplements will need to be added to ensure that all the nutritional bases are covered.

    In my opinion, Sojo’s pre-mix would be fine to use rotationally with other pre-mixes. I’ve used it a few times in the past. However, it does not appear to me that Sojo’s pre-mix would make a complete and balanced meal and I can’t locate any claims on their packaging or website that states the final product (once meat is added) will be complete and balanced (per AAFCO’s standards). There are quite a few pre-mixes out there on the market, my three favorites are See Spot Live Longer Dinner Mix (http://www.seespotlivelonger.com/), The Honest Kitchen’s Preference (http://www.thehonestkitchen.com/preference) and Urban Wolf (http://www.urbanwolf.cc/).

    If you ever want to venture into a completely homemade diet, I’d strongly recommend picking up a copy of “Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet” by Steve Brown. It’s a great resource for beginners and includes AAFCO compliant recipes. The author is also the creator of the See Spot Live Longer pre-mix I mentioned above.

    Best of luck!

    #37469
    Shasta220
    Member

    I’m really sorry about this. It’s especially tough with the little guys, because they can’t afford to lose weight – and I’m guessing he has the proper slim build already, no extra pudge to him?

    What do you feed him? Back before I knew about dog nutrition, my parents only wanted the cheapest, so my poor baby got stuck with grocery store foods. I kept telling mom to /at least/ get Dog Chow (believe it or not, it was good compared to these foods), because he would starve himself for 3-4 days at a time. When he did eat, he’d only eat 1/2 scoop instead of 1-2 scoops. After enough begging, I finally did some research and found a 3 star food we could move to without breaking the bank. He didn’t have a problem at all ever since then. Now he’s on a 4star food, and I think he’s our best eater. Slowest one, yes, but he loves his food!

    I’d agree, usually loss of appetite can signal some serious health problems, even oral problems. He might not be eating because it hurts something in his mouth or his tummy.

    Since he seems to love drinking, I wonder if you could sneak some supplemental additives in there to get at least some nutrition into him?

    #37464
    T
    Participant

    The first thoughts I have are: a) he doesn’t want to eat the kibble you’re offering, and b) maybe his stomach doesn’t feel great even if he’s asymptomatic, and c) maybe he’s not getting enough exercise to help the hormones that influence appetite (and everything else).

    Without knowing anything else about him, I would think you could institute these changes safely with most any dog:
    1. digestive enzyme with each meal
    2. probiotic for at least 2 months
    3. work up to at least 30 minutes OUTDOOR exercise each day.

    I would also encourage you to explore the use of fresh foods- either homemade or commercially prepared as a supplement or the entire diet. They’re usually easier to digest and have more biologically active compounds.

    Good Luck!
    Tabitha T.
    naturalalternativesvet.com

    #37392

    In reply to: Gas problem in puppy

    Mom2Cavs
    Member

    Hi and welcome! You’ve been given some great ideas for the gulping. The one gulper I had was fixed by a slow down bowl. There are lots more products out now than when he was living that might help, like food puzzles. I would also try adding a probiotic/enzyme supplement first to see if that helps. Nature’s Farmacy offers one that is dissolvable in water called Digestive Enhancer. I order mine from them. So if you’re feeding straight kibble you could add a tiny bit of water and the supplement. Supposedly it doesn’t have a taste….mine take it in their food just fine. There are also other good brands available, too. Most times yogurt isn’t enough. If that doesn’t work after a few weeks, then I’d think about switching foods for your pup. Precise is a decent food (I just bought a bag myself) but just because it worked for your other dog doesn’t mean it’ll work for this pup. All dogs are different. I hope this helps a little. 🙂

    #37367
    Shawna
    Member

    Hi Cathy,

    Sorry for the delay… The absolute WORST thing you can feed sprite bar none is any form of kibble. Kibble is hard to digest and because of the lower quality of the protein it creates more BUN when compared to an equal amount of digested protein from another source.

    AND, your vet is incorrect if he/she told you to feed low protein in the early stages of the disease unless there is significant protein in the urine. Testing has confirmed that lowering protein too low can actually increase all cause mortality. They have also proven that protein does not damage the kidneys. Because of this you don’t need to feed “low” protein until Sprite has advanced symptoms. Limiting protein even at later stages does not help the kidneys but it does help with symptoms which are caused by the increase of BUN etc in the blood. Limiting protein is not helpful however in the later stages of the disease limiting phosphorus is highly advisable. Phosphorus builds in the blood and CAN damage the kidneys. In the earlier stages of the disease phosphorus is often not detrimental.

    For the record, my pup has had kd since birth and has been on HIGH protein raw (45 to 54% on a dry matter basis) since coming to me at nine weeks of age. She will be eight years old the end of June this year and is still doing well. The only time she shows symptoms such as vomiting is if I feed her kibble. The Honest Kitchen is a good food but I’d go with Love or Zeal and add extra good quality fats like coconut oil to increase calories and make her feel more satiated without extra protein/phosphorus. Canned (or better yet raw) tripe is another good option and can be fed with the HK or as a separate meal (pending you get one that is complete and balanced).

    As noted, increasing fat keeps the calories up while lowering phosphorus per calorie consumed. This is very important in the later stages.

    Other things to consider:

    I HIGHLY recommend a product by Standard Process called Canine Renal Support. Audrey has been on it since I learned of her diagnosis. It helps to keep inflammation at bay.

    Give Sprite access to all the water she wants but do make sure it is pure — reverse osmosis as an example. Adding toxins in via the water source only increases symptoms. Science has shown benefit to giving waters higher in calcium with low sodium. They didn’t identify actual names but Evian seems to fit the bill.

    I HIGHLY recommend giving a HIGH quality probiotic and a specific type of prebiotic (known as nitrogen traps). The combination of these two products helps clear BUN etc from the blood sparing the kidneys from having to do the work. It also allows for even higher amounts of protein. I use Garden of Life’s Primal Defense (human product) and Fiber35 Sprinkle Fiber (human product).

    There are other supplements that are known to be beneficial such as food grade activated charcoal, spirulina, burdock root, organic turmeric and more. I mix a combination of these and others with a digestive enzyme and some of the Sprinkle Fiber and add a bit to every meal.

    The products you use in your home can be problematic too. When Audrey was diagnosed I looked at the CDC and material safety data sheets for product ingredients I used in my home. Many (if not most) of them were not kidney friendly so I got rid of them and use only ones that are not damaging to kidneys. Example — clorox has a chemical that can damage kidneys in animals. From the material safety data sheet “2-Butoxyethanol has been shown to cause red blood cell hemolysis in laboratory animals and secondary injury to the kidney and liver. However, humans appear to be resistant to this effect” Clorox is pretty toxic anyway so I don’t even have it in the house but if you choose to use it, might be wise not to use it to clean the floors as it can be absorbed through the skin. http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/downloads/msds/cloroxprofessionalproducts/409nqf.pdf

    I know I’m forgetting some things… 🙁 Let me know if you have any questions. Also Mary Straus’ website discusses the data I’ve mentioned above plus much much more. Very valuable source of information. She lists kibbles but she fed her own KD dog raw and believes in raw. You don’t have to feed raw but I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest avoiding going back to any kibble. http://www.dogaware.com/health/kidney.html

    You and Sprite are in my prayers!!!!

    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Shawna.
    • This reply was modified 11 years, 8 months ago by Shawna.
    #37366

    In reply to: Gas problem in puppy

    Shasta220
    Member

    Again on the gulping – I wouldn’t worry too much about buying fancy bowls when you could have a DIY version for a fraction of the cost 😉 my guy gets half his meal as treats when we work obedience. I have him work, then give him a few Kibbles as reinforcement. The other half is either in a bowl mixed w his supplements, or stuffed into a kong. 🙂

    #37349
    Shasta220
    Member

    I’d agree with Sandy for the premixes. I know most people say that rotating the proteins out is good due to the different amino acids in meats. If you don’t have a premix, then possibly add nutrient-dense veggies with egg, oils, etc. and probably an overall supplement. Most people avoid fruit unless they’re super dense in nutrition, as they add a lot of sugar.
    I don’t know much on home made diets, just what I’ve learned from being on here 😉

    #37300

    In reply to: Sensitive Stomac

    theBCnut
    Member

    Here’s the problem, some dogs with chronic diarrhea need more fiber in their food, while others need just the opposite, so you may have to experiment on your dog to see what works for him. You could try adding some pure canned pumpkin to his meals and see if the added fiber helps or you could try a supplement like The Honest Kitchen’s Perfect Form. If neither of those help, you could go the other way and try a high protein, moderate fat food. Either way, I would add digestive enzymes and a good probiotic to his diet until you get this worked out.

    What breed is he?

    #37292

    In reply to: Anxiety Supplements?

    aimee
    Participant

    Anxitane is the brand name of the supplement the trainer is referring to. L Theanine is the active ingredient. It is in blends of other supplements as well at lower levels than in the Anxitane. Anxitane is my preferred product and I have seen it help facilitate behavior modification.

    Desensitization and counterconditioning of dogs with profound anxiety is a process whereby attention to detail and keeping the dog below threshold is important. I know as I own such a dog. I don’t like to ever see reactive dogs on neck collars. Initially I used a head collar and/or front attachment harness. The most frequent mistake made is putting the dog in situations that he/she is not ready for. This takes time… a lot of time and realistic goals.

    General obedience classes may be inappropriate for your dog as many dogs are over threshold, Feisty Fido classes where the ratio of trainer to student is often one to one and they use screening between dogs to keep them under threshold until they are ready for contact can be helpful

    You might want to buy Patricia McConnells book Feitsy Fido which is an excellent resource. If you are not familiar with BAT it is a useful technique https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WrseJPY09k

    Working with a board certified vet behaviorist, a CAAB or a vet interested in behavior would be an excellent idea check here http://avsabonline.org/resources/find-consult

    or hook up with a Karen Pryor trainer which you can find here: https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainer?source=kpctnavbar

    #37260

    In reply to: Anxiety Supplements?

    theBCnut
    Member

    First of all, run don’t walk away from Cesar Milan tactics and don’t be jealous of someone that took that route.

    Second, there are no anti anxiety supplements that I know of that are avoid at all costs, or super effective. They are definitely something that you just have to try and see what works for your individual dog. Some dogs are helped with one and some with another and some are not helped by any of them.

    Third, are you sure that your dog isn’t part Border Collie?

    #37256
    Shasta220
    Member

    Okay, so I will let y’all know my story…

    Last year, a month after my favorite baby boy was tragically killed, I adopted what I thought was my “dream dog”. A blue Merle blue eyed prick-eared Aussie/kelpie. I was totally prepared for hyper, but the shelter had told me he was good with other dogs (they just said “he plays a bit rough, but loves dogs”).

    Either they did a lousy temperament test, or he completely changed when he got home. He is an anxious mess when around new dogs. He’s on his second obedience class (there are only two types of trainers in town…one gears towards lots of correction, which only made him worse. His current one is purely positive reinforcement, and it’s not helping either). Regardless of the amount of exercise/mental stimulation (he gets pack walks, running, fetch, obedience, tricks, agility, frisbee, Kongs, other brain teasers, etc. ), he is severely anxious as soon as he sees another dog.

    He has gotten slightly better, but ultimately I have concluded that I do not have the resources (or money) to have him remain calm. I do consider myself a knowledgable trainer as well. I know just as much as both of the obedience instructors know, and I’ve trained a few dogs successfully. Loki just lacked the vital socialization needed as a puppy (history is unknown) and has EXTREME fear-anxiety driven dog aggression. I’ve talked to a student of Cesar Millan (yep, I’m jealous), and she said that his only chance would be therapy. She doesn’t have the time to do it, and I don’t have the money (or resources to do it myself)

    Anyway, with that big long sob story of my boo-boo-baby-bear, onward to the title: one of the trainers suggested an anxiety supplement (can’t remember the name of the one she said, but it was sourced from green tea I think). She has a couple dogs similar to Loki, and said the supplement helped them a LOT. Here are my questions:

    #1. do they really work?
    2. What are favorite brands/active ingredients?
    3. What are “avoid at all costs” brands/ingredients?
    4. Do they ONLY calm the dog? I do not want anything that’ll turn him into an inactive blob.
    5. What are some of the more affordable ones?
    6. If it will work, how long will effects start showing?

    Please do not think that I’m a “lousy owner who shouldn’t own such a high drive breed”, because that is NOT me. I am hoping to be a dog trainer one day, and I do consider myself fairly good with dogs. If Loki was with anyone else, I do think he’d have been put down or shoved back in a shelter right now, and I really do mean that. He’s an amazing dog who has potential, if he can just overcome his extreme anxiety.

    And no, I’m not expecting this supplement to be “the ultimate solution” to his anxiety and POOF make him nice to other dogs…I’d just like something to take the “edge” off of him and make him a bit happier/mellower in class.

    #37237

    In reply to: Blue ridge beef

    Mac T
    Member

    I am a veterinarian and feed Blue Ridge Beef products to my 3 Boxers and have recommended it to many other folks. I have used it for 3 years and find it to be of excellent and consistent quality. I have never observed charcoal in the product. Before I started using the food I had emailed the company and found their responses professional and timely. The dogs I feed it to are healthy and do extremely well fed BRB products exclusively. I am a breeder and also do a lot of obedience work with my dogs and credit their excellent health and performance to this food. I rarely find in necessary to supplement, as I feel most supplements are sold and used based on marketing and perception rather than medical/scientific fact. I have no affiliation to the company whatsoever, wish I did so I could get a discount though 🙂 Are there other raw foods that you can use, certainly-there are many, are BRB products worth feeding your dog, IME yes. I like BRB products due to quality, consistency, affordability, variety, and convenience. I prefer feeding a ground product instead of so-called prey model-just a personal choice. I have a lot of first hand experience feeding their products and I like them. One thing about internet info is that some times folks bad mouth something they have never used and that can be unfair. I have no vested interest in convincing anyone to use BRB, but I thought some actual first hand experiences about the products might help those considering them. I have no inside info about the company so I can not address some of the issues raised in this thread about their ownership or business connections, I just have experience actually using the products. I will be glad to attempt to answer any questions or inquiries about my dogs.

    #37176
    First N
    Member

    I too have dealt with my 5 year old retriever gulping and swallowing with both of us in a panic as to what was wrong. Thought it was torsion for first attack. X-rays and blood work revealed nothing. Thought maybe he had gotten into something. Vet thought it was esophagitis and acid reflux. Had him on Sucralfate, Prilosec. Wet his kibble and fed 3 smaller meals a day.Seemed to help but then attack would re-occur in 20 days. Vet referred us to specialist. Specialist suspected HELICOBACTER bacterial infection. Endoscope was performed and a couple of tissue samples taken. Tests confirmed quickly that it was Helicobacter. Treatment involved 10 days of “Triple Therapy” with Probiotic supplements. Triple therapy is a Combination of 2 antibiotics: Amoxicillin and Metronidazole with Bismuth Subsalicylate (Pebto Bismol). Tests also showed elevated levels of eosinophils which indicate inflammation in stomach and intestines. Specialist recommended Switching him to food containing a “novel” protein: which is a new protein that he hasn’t eaten before. So far everything is going well, fingers crossed.

    This post may or may not help some of you but I hadn’t seen a mention of Helicobacter as being a possible diagnosis. I wish you and your dogs the best. My dog is such a sweet boy. It was worth it to see him not gulp or swallow anymore.

    Mom2Cavs
    Member

    This could also carry over to supplements. I would like to say that Lucy has CETL (canine cutaneous epitheliotropic t-cell lymphoma) a rare skin cancer. After adding a supplement for her immune system from Vetri-Science called Maitake DMG she is in remission. It’s the only thing I did differently. Amazing!

    #37090

    MastiffLove ~

    First, I hope more people will chime in here with helpful advice. Now, to get to your questions as best I can.

    It looks like your family is adding a lot of new members to the family. How great for all of them to be able to grow up and play together – and be fed raw. Looks like you’ll have your own little support group!

    1. From all my reading on forums and Facebook, finding green tripe can be tricky. Some places ban the sale of it directly to consumers while others seem to be able to get it locally. I’m currently getting mine from MyPetCarnivore.com. I’m hoping that when I find someone who will sell direct, that they’ll also be able to provide the tripe. You’ll just have to ask and if they can’t, perhaps they’ll know where to get it.

    2. Sure, you can grind necks. They aren’t terribly meaty, but they’ll grind easily enough. You should be able to start giving them whole when your pup gets a bit older. Chicken necks are tiny and I give them whole to my seven month old cat. I’ve been giving whole duck and turkey necks to Mystery since I started raw, he was 10 months at the time – he’s getting a turkey neck as part of his dinner tonight.

    Different nutritionists/homeopathic vets will have various opinions on what, when, how and why to feed certain ingredients. I tend to lean toward Kymythy’s advice at the moment. She raises Newfies and feeds them raw as early as four weeks. The proof is in the health of her pups and adults.

    3. I’m still not feeding veggies or “super” greens. Not a “purist” or anything but I wanted to first be sure I was feeding correctly the balance of meat/bone/organs and then get a blood panel or hair sample analysis – I’ll be scheduling that next week. Mystery’s only issues are a skin flaking problem – solved with coconut oil, and motion sickness – I’m still working on that and hoping he’ll grow out of it. So, until I get an analysis that says he needs more of this or that, I’m holding off on supplementing. I do give Mystery garlic for natural pest control and I also supplement with curcumen and vitamin C because Goldens have a high cancer mortality rate. I know a lot of people use “super” this and that as well as create their own veggie mashes. I would lean toward making my own purees since I believe nutrition from the source is best.

    4. Most fruits have a lot of sugar in them. I would avoid most or feed them judiciously. I’ll share a banana with Mystery from time to time as well as give him apple slices, but not as a regular part of his diet. Here’s a basic chart that lists not only veggies and fruits that are toxic to pets but also plants as well as symptoms to watch for: http://www.acreaturecomfort.com/toxic.htm. And of course, you’ll find other sites that list fewer or additional foods.

    5. Ah, SWEET potatoes. I haven’t read anything that shows a good reason to add most starches. That includes potatoes, peas, some beans. Many of these veggies convert starches to sugar when cooked. I used to give a tablespoon of pumpkin when our Sunset would have loose stools, but Mystery has had no problems there – and especially not since going raw.

    6. I must defer to Kymythy on adding anything at all to an eight week old puppy’s diet. If you’re balancing 80/10/10 your calcium/phosphorus ratio is in perfect sync. Adding anything may not only increase the amount of calcium but may throw off that balance. Mess with that ratio and excess calcium can be deposited on the outside of the bones causing a number of issues. We had no idea that there was an issue with LBPs and calcium when we got Sunset 11 years ago. Before she was two, she required double-hip surgery. We got her from a backyard breeder (another ignorant move on our part), didn’t know much about hip scores and fed her what surely is on the one- or two-star lists here at DFA. I’ve been ultra focused on calcium since before I got Mystery.

    An excerpt from Kymythy’s book, Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats:
    By the time the young are ready to go to their new homes, they should be eating whole necks and regular meals with all the extras, and you may discontinue the enzymes and probiotics (although they may help counteract the digestive stress a youngster endures when going to a new home). Youngsters may be fed three times per day from eight weeks until four to six months old, then twice daily from four to six months old until one year of age, and once daily after one year of age. Giant breeds of dogs may need to be fed twice daily occasionally during growth spurts from one to three years of age. Either feed two complete meals or one complete and one of meaty bones (bones with ample meat) only. Observe your pet and adjust amounts accordingly. Do not feed so much that the stomach becomes overly extended. Do not let your pet become obese. A very thin layer of fat over the ribs is healthy, but too much weight puts extra stress on growing bones, joints, and hearts. A healthy wild animal is a lean animal. If your pet needs to lose weight, reduce its food intake. If it needs to gain weight, increase its food. Keep in mind that growing youngsters will eat more per pound of body weight than adult animals.

    Schultze, Kymythy (1999-10-01). Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats (p. 67). Hay House. Kindle Edition.

    Note the information on probiotics and enzymes is directed toward breeders who feed and wean pups to raw. If your puppy has been weaned to kibble, you might want to add some kefir to his diet for a time.

    7. See #6, but I will take a look at the three products you mentioned for future use. I am not trying to discourage the use of any supplementation, just use caution and be sure you’re feeding only what is essential and beneficial.

    8. I’m assuming you’re referring to the products in question 6 and maybe 7, not 8. LOL! I couldn’t find a guaranteed analysis of the Urban Wolf Balancer so I would be very wary of adding it. They do provide a recipe that uses their products with an analysis and it looks good. If you feel a strong need to supplement… Questions regarding their recipe ingredients might include, where do they get their fish oil from; is it guaranteed not to contain any toxins; if you use “canned” fish, do the cans contain BPA; if natural ingredients are better, why so many dried/powdered ingredients in their mixes? This is the hard part for me – giving my money to companies that sell premixes and toppers when I can just hit the market for fresh ingredients.

    9. When you’re deciding on recipes, remember that your eight week old puppy is capable of handling chunks of raw meats, organs and bones. Even if he’s been weaned onto kibble before you get him, there should be no need to transition him as he hasn’t developed an addiction to the sugars and starches yet. I’d been feeding my kitten a kibble diet for about five months when I decided to transition the cats. Since he’d been stealing raw food from the dog, I went straight to raw with him and he jumped all over it, including chicken necks and other appropriately sized bones. I feed grinds only when the weather’s so bad that I can’t even put Mystery on the screened deck, usually when it’s too cold. The cats get fed in the tiled bathroom since they don’t feel the need to drag food all over the place – yet!

    Any time you freeze or cook food, you’re going to lose a bit of nutritional value. Most of us have large freezers because we buy in bulk so frozen it is. Be sure you thaw foods and try to bring them to room temp before feeding. As Alpha in my house, I pull food from the refrigerator and let it sit on the counter until I’ve finished my coffee – then they get to eat. I know some people feed frozen foods but I wouldn’t do that to a puppy. Ever get brain freeze from drinking a shake too fast? Imagine a puppy’s digestive system trying to warm up frozen meat. There may be other opinions out there on this, but I would definitely feed three times a day for the first six months and then move to twice a day until he’s at least a year old. You should be feeding him 10% of his current weight until that exceeds 2-3% of his target weight.

    I love Mercola. There is a chart floating around that shows who is fighting GMO labeling and who is supporting it in WA. I use it when I go shopping and yes, some of the products I’ve purchased in the past come from companies fighting WA. Let me know if you can’t find it. I get that having to label a product 50 different ways could put a hardship on business so I would support a federal label that is nothing less than FULL disclosure. That said, I don’t trust the FDA or any other governmental agency to have my best interest at heart. I’m a big fan of personal responsibility. The government assumes I’m ignorant…, I believe it’s a choice. (Whoops, gone political.)

    I’m glad you were able to find a farm so quickly to meet your raw needs. Don’t forget to pick up chicken feet, green tripe, testicles, heart, kidneys… Go for goat and rabbit as well as chicken, turkey and beef. Something that I would have gotten wrong is differentiating between what are considered organs and what is not.

    Organs: Liver (5% of the diet), kidneys, spleen, brain, thymus gland, panaceas and testicles (the other 5%)

    Not organs: Heart, Gizzard, Tongue, lung, trachea, green tripe (all considered as part of the 80%).

    Another site for learning more about feeding raw is here: https://www.mypetcarnivore.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78&Itemid=116. It’s a culling of articles from a variety of sources.

    I better turn my attention to the vacuum and washer now or I’m going to be overrun by tumblefurs. I look forward to seeing you on Facebook soon.

    #37075

    MastiffLove,

    “i can mix the meat(s) fruits and boiled veggies and freeze and once thawed out add the supplements before serving.” – Yes, this is exactly what I would do.

    I buy ground tripe as well for the same reasons as Patty (theBCnut). It’s pretty gross smelling stuff but the dogs love it!

    Also, don’t worry about asking too many questions. Most people here want to help and we all started where you are at one point in time. I’ve only been doing this for about 6 months and I still have questions some times.

    #37070

    Transferring my answer:

    Hi MastiffLove,
    I am answering your questions based on what I do and my knowledge and experience.

    1- Yes, it is called green tripe. You may be able to get it from a butcher. For human consumption, they bleach the tripe which removes all the good stuff for our dogs.

    2- Yes, you can grind necks if you don’t want to feed them whole.

    3- Some people see vegetables as being optional. It is up to you if you want to include them. Remember that freezing can damage the enzymes in food so don’t keep food frozen for too long. I try to only have food frozen for a month or less. The Spirugreen is not a replacement for veggies. It is a green algae supplement. I wouldn’t freeze it. I would add it right before feeding.

    4- I would puree fruits. You can feed in pieces but you will notice that some will come out just like they went it (example- the skin of the apple won’t be digested very well).

    5- Sweet potato is a starchy root vegetable that has carbs. It can be used as a nutritious filler to bulk up meals for dogs that need a lot of food. It also contains high levels of vitamin a, vitamin c, and manganese.

    6- Urban Wolf is a pre-mix that is meant to be used with meat only (no bone) as it contains enough calcium to balance the meat without bone. I believe Dr. Harvey’s is more of an herbal supplement and can be added to meat with bone.

    7- I would suggest rotating different products for your supergreens. Try one then a different one. Variety is good!

    8- Did you mean adding the product from question 7? From that quote I would think that adding some veggies is ok but not to overdo it. You wouldn’t want 50% of your pup’s diet to be veggies. I’d think you’d be ok having 5-10% veggies in the diet.

    9- I would not freeze supplements like greens or fish oil. They may loose some of their effectiveness. I add my supplements right before feeding. I have the meat and/or meat/veggie mix portioned and frozen, then I thaw what I can use in 3 days.

    I hope that helps.

    #37067

    MastiffLove’s Questions transferred from /forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/page/66/

    Hi Sharon! I will be looking into the facebook group after we get our puppy, Zeus is his name :), cause our teens don’t know about it yet and adding that group to our facebook will certainly give them a hint lolll
    Someone wrote (i think it was you!?): “Last week I found a farm that grass feeds, no GMOs, but they do feed grains in the three weeks prior to slaughter (I’m still checking to see if that is standard practice and if not, why it’s done and whether it effects the quality of the meat (other than the tripe) – more questions for my conference list)”
    What were you told?

    We will buy in bulk, meaning half a cow, lots of chickens (loose fat removed), half a pig (less pig since it has more fat)(will add organs to those) for a start and later on i will add more types of meats as i find farmers or producers around my area. I will make this food for my 8weeks old English Mastiff puppy BUT my wife’s parents are getting a Colley puppy in July and later on during the summer a German Sheppard puppy, also a friend of ours is researching for a good breeder of Great Danes. That being said we would be 4 different dogs on the same recipe.
    1- Can i get Green Tripe from a meat manufacture(not sure if thats how its called)?
    2- Can i grind necks?
    3- instead of using pureed vegetable can i use a Supergreen powder mixted with the meat then freeze?
    4- Should fruits be pureed? or chopped in fine pieces is ok? (like apples for example)
    5- wy use Sweet potatoes, isn’t it a source of carbs? Should it always be boiled or can it be oven baked?
    6- Thinking of buying in bulk therefore i would have the company to grind the meat including bones…would using:
    URBAN WOLF Balancer give a too high output on Calcium and an unbalanced Calc./Phos.?
    or
    Should i use Dr. Harvey’s Formative Years for Puppies?
    NOT to forget my puppy is 8weeks old!
    7- As for Greens should i use Mercola’s SpiruGreen Superfood and/OR Swanson’s Sprouted Flax Powder mixed with Wheat Grass Powder?
    8- Kymythy Schultze a certified clinical nutritionist said:” Calcium can go out of solution when feeding too many vegetables. Keeping normal acidity (low alkaline) in the digestion by avoiding veggies in puppies keeps calcium in solution and won’t deposit excess on the bones.”
    (p.s.: thank you Sharon Buchanan for the quote!)
    Would adding the product from Question 8 result in unbalancing my pups acidity?
    9- i would mix everything up in large batches (some batch will have some ingredients and some will have different ones to “balance” it out in day on day off type of feeding), and separate in individual portion size for an 8 weeks old large pup in air tight sealed bags and then into the freezer. Doing so would i loose any efficiency of certain foods like greens and fish oil?
    *** End comment: I was happy and felt like applauding Mercola.com for funding 300,000$ for the Washington State GMO Labeling Initiative, they are one of the companies, amongst many others, that i buy products from as supplements for my puppy raw diet. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cornucopia.jpg ***

    #37053
    MastiffLove
    Member

    Thank you very much for your help RDM and yes i meant question 7….so if i recap i can mix the meat(s) fruits and boiled veggies and freeze and once thawed out add the supplements before serving.

    Thank you theBCnut for that info! there’s actually alot of em in my area, i will make some phone calls! 🙂

    should i grind the tripe like the meat or have it coarse grind to get Zeus to chew on it to get some teeth brushing going on? From what i read its a chewy type of organ?

    Sorry for all those questions but i wanna make this right (still have a long way to g but i’m working on it) and have a healthy family member! 😛

    #37049

    Hi MastiffLove,

    I am answering your questions based on what I do and my knowledge and experience.

    1- Yes, it is called green tripe. You may be able to get it from a butcher. For human consumption, they bleach the tripe which removes all the good stuff for our dogs.

    2- Yes, you can grind necks if you don’t want to feed them whole.

    3- Some people see vegetables as being optional. It is up to you if you want to include them. Remember that freezing can damage the enzymes in food so don’t keep food frozen for too long. I try to only have food frozen for a month or less. The Spirugreen is not a replacement for veggies. It is a green algae supplement. I wouldn’t freeze it. I would add it right before feeding.

    4- I would puree fruits. You can feed in pieces but you will notice that some will come out just like they went it (example- the skin of the apple won’t be digested very well).

    5- Sweet potato is a starchy root vegetable that has carbs. It can be used as a nutritious filler to bulk up meals for dogs that need a lot of food. It also contains high levels of vitamin a, vitamin c, and manganese.

    6- Urban Wolf is a pre-mix that is meant to be used with meat only (no bone) as it contains enough calcium to balance the meat without bone. I believe Dr. Harvey’s is more of an herbal supplement and can be added to meat with bone.

    7- I would suggest rotating different products for your supergreens. Try one then a different one. Variety is good!

    8- Did you mean adding the product from question 7? From that quote I would think that adding some veggies is ok but not to overdo it. You wouldn’t want 50% of your pup’s diet to be veggies. I’d think you’d be ok having 5-10% veggies in the diet.

    9- I would not freeze supplements like greens or fish oil. They may loose some of their effectiveness. I add my supplements right before feeding. I have the meat and/or meat/veggie mix portioned and frozen, then I thaw what I can use in 3 days.

    I hope that helps.

    #37047
    MastiffLove
    Member

    We will buy in bulk, meaning half a cow, lots of chickens (loose fat removed), half a pig (less pig since it has more fat)(will add organs to those) for a start and later on i will add more types of meats as i find farmers or producers around my area. I will make this food for my 8weeks old English Mastiff puppy BUT my wife’s parents are getting a Colley puppy in July and later on during the summer a German Sheppard puppy, also a friend of ours is researching for a good Great Dane breeder. That being said we would be 4 different dogs on the same recipe.

    1- Can i get Green Tripe from a meat manufacture(not sure if thats how its called)?

    2- Can i grind necks?

    3- instead of using pureed vegetable can i use a Supergreen powder mixted with the meat then freeze?

    4- Should fruits be pureed? or chopped in fine pieces is ok? (like apples for example)

    5- wy use Sweet potatoes, isn’t it a source of carbs? Should it always be boiled or can it be oven baked?

    6- Thinking of buying in bulk therefore i would have the company to grind the meat including bones…would using:
    URBAN WOLF Balancer give a too high output on Calcium and an unbalanced Calc./Phos.?
    or
    Should i use Dr. Harvey’s Formative Years for Puppies?
    NOT to forget my puppy is 8weeks old!

    7- As for Greens should i use Mercola’s SpiruGreen Superfood and/OR Swanson’s Sprouted Flax Powder mixed with Wheat Grass Powder?

    8- Kymythy Schultze a certified clinical nutritionist said:” Calcium can go out of solution when feeding too many vegetables. Keeping normal acidity (low alkaline) in the digestion by avoiding veggies in puppies keeps calcium in solution and won’t deposit excess on the bones.”
    (p.s.: thank you Sharon Buchanan for the quote!)
    Would adding the product from Question 8 result in unbalancing my pups acidity?

    9- i would mix everything up in large batches (some batch will have some ingredients and some will have different ones to “balance” it out in day on day off type of feeding), and separate in individual portion size for an 8 weeks old large pup in air tight sealed bags and then into the freezer. Doing so would i loose any efficiency of certain foods like greens and fish oil?

    *** End comment: I was happy and felt like applauding Mercola.com for funding 300,000$ for the Washington State GMO Labeling Initiative, they are one of the companies, amongst many others, that i buy products from as supplements for my puppy raw diet. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cornucopia.jpg ***

    #37037
    Hound Dog Mom
    Participant

    Hi Brandy –

    Just because a dog gulps kibble doesn’t necessarily mean that they will gulp RMB’s. The goal is to only feed RMB’s large enough that they have to chew (the RMB should be bigger than their mough). For example, I’d never give my two girls (large bloodhounds) small chicken necks or wings because they would just swallow them, instead I give turkey necks, chicken quarters, chicken backs etc. I’ve also heard of people putting clamps on the end of RMB’s if their dog still gulps. My suggestion would be to try giving your small dogs bones that are obviously much too large for a meal (i.e. a turkey neck) and when they’ve eaten an appropriate amount take it away and refrigerate for the next meal. When it’s eaten to the point that it’s small enough to swallow, remove it and dispose of the bit that’s left.

    With that said, if it turns out that your dog can’t eat RMB’s safely it’s certainly okay to not include RMB’s in the diet – of course you will then need to add supplemental calcium and be very proactive about dental care because your dog won’t be getting the calcium and dental benefits that RMB’s provide. Good luck and come back if you have any more questions! 🙂

    http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a501/hagelult/IMG_2161_zps707bc44f.jpg

    http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a501/hagelult/IMG_2176_zps95819491.jpg

    #36962
    Arlosmom
    Member

    Hello, I’m looking for some advice and hope to find help here. I’ve read through the wealth of info on LBP nutrition here – thank you to all contributors! I just picked up our new Boxer pup (expected to top out at approx. 80lbs or so based on parents) and have had him home for just a couple days shy of 1 week. He is 9 weeks tomorrow. The breeder had the pups on Fromm Gold puppy supplementing with rice, beef, sardines, yogurt, pumpkin. Upon bringing him home, I thought I’d keep him on the food for a couple of weeks and the same regime. I have added toppers of Wellness and Trippet – just a spoonful. I planned on switching to Large Breed puppy Fromm and also wanted to pick another food from HDM’s list. I discovered yesterday that he is knuckling over – more pronounced on his left front than right but both seem to be effected. What I think it might be as that upon getting him home I instituted 2-3 very short walks each day (5-10 minutes max.) I have 3 other dogs so he has also engaged in play and my floors and the ground outside that he is on are all hard surfaces. I thought I should discontinue the walks immediately and have done so. Any advice is welcome – should I change foods right away? Information is conflicting – I’ve read that when this happens protein should be reduced and vit. C introduced?? Do you think the short walks contributed/caused this?? I can send pics as well but would need direction on how/where to post. THANK YOU in advance.

    theBCnut
    Member

    That really isn’t high for glucosamine and even if it were it would be fine. The only problem would be that later on if you need a joint supplement, glucosamine might not be as effective.

    #36804
    Akari_32
    Participant

    Iams is one of the worst foods out there, actually. And the easist way to get around canned food with fish in it is to just not buy any with fish. Huh. Imagine that. Dry food is terrible for cats because of the higher level of carbohydrates needed to bind the food together, as well as it being just that– dry. Some canned foods (like Iams) can actually be just as bad with carbs. Feeding just boiled meat is extremely imbalanced, as it doesn’t provide all of the nutrients your cat needs to stay healthy. Now, if you were to add supplements yourself, then that would actually be better than any commercial diet, but you would first have to know how much of what nutrients to add, and they can be costly.

    InkedMarie
    Member

    I’m a little confused by your question, sorry if I’m missing something. I was under the impression that by the time dog food is cooked, whatever glucosamine was there is all but gone. Buy a joint supplement if you need it.

    Why do you need a senior food?

    #36779
    Bobby dog
    Member

    Hi C4c:
    I was thinking about it, but I haven’t looked into it yet. I have never tried any garlic supplement or fresh garlic for them. I suppose since flea season is just around the corner I better get on it!

    Have you ever given garlic to your kitties?

    I know the cat that will eat anything will probably eat fresh garlic. He likes the meatballs I make for Bobby and they have a good amount of garlic (and tumeric) in them. I am just not sure about the other kitties.

    #36776
    Shasta220
    Member

    I am honestly very disappointed at my dog right now. Cassy is my 12y.o. Lab/GSD, and has NEVER been picky about her food. I’ve been giving her coconut oil recently (finally got her up to 2tbsp), and normally she loves it; but this week, she decided it was the most revolting thing ever.

    She eats outdoors (that’s where the food is stored, out in the woodshed), so the coconut oil stays hard. I crumbled it up over her food, but she was still able to spit out the tiny pieces. Today, I tried melting it and pouring it over her kibble. That didn’t work either, because it hardened and was stuck to the edges of the bowl with some of the kibble.

    Any suggestions to get that full 2tbsp in there without her noticing? I wondered if I could add some olive oil or something to keep it more of a “liquid”, because she doesn’t seem to notice it too much when it’s like that. Or possibly some flavored liquid to mix with it so she doesn’t smell it as much?

    At first, I thought maybe she has just lost her appetite; but she eats everything else perfectly fine (and then some…she’s our vacuum cleaner!)

    stacie p
    Member

    I have a 2 year old Black lab, who prior to being neutered, was 100% healthy. We neutered him at 9 mo old, and he was 78# (he is American Lab, so that is a healthy to thin weight). Once he recovered from surgery he started developing stomach/digestive issues, skin rashes and inability to gain weight. Vet diagnosed him with having a food allergy. So thru a lot of trial and error we settled on Fromm Game Bird, but he still had issues with rashes. He is currently eating Brothers Allergy Turkey and Egg. We have been able to get him down to just symptoms of Bloat and gas, which is supplemented with gasX. I can’t get him back up to his pre-fix weight of 78#, the closest I have gotten is 76# and he eats 5 cups per day. His healthy average weight should be 90#.

    Has anyone ever heard of there being a correlation with digestion and neutering (hormone changes) in dogs? Thank you in advance for your time.

    #36757
    MastiffLove
    Member

    We will buy in bulk, meaning half a cow, lots of chickens (loose fat removed), half a pig (less pig since it has more fat)(will add organs to those) for a start and later on i will add more types of meats as i find farmers or producers around my area. I will make this food for my 8weeks old English Mastiff puppy BUT my wife’s parents are getting a Colley puppy in July and later on during the summer a German Sheppard puppy, also a friend of ours is researching for a good breeder of Great Danes. That being said we would be 4 different dogs on the same recipe.

    1- Can i get Green Tripe from a meat manufacture(not sure if thats how its called)?

    2- Can i grind necks?

    3- instead of using pureed vegetable can i use a Supergreen powder mixted with the meat then freeze?

    4- Should fruits be pureed? or chopped in fine pieces is ok? (like apples for example)

    5- wy use Sweet potatoes, isn’t it a source of carbs? Should it always be boiled or can it be oven baked?

    6- Thinking of buying in bulk therefore i would have the company to grind the meat including bones…would using:
    URBAN WOLF Balancer give a too high output on Calcium and an unbalanced Calc./Phos.?
    or
    Should i use Dr. Harvey’s Formative Years for Puppies?
    NOT to forget my puppy is 8weeks old!

    7- As for Greens should i use Mercola’s SpiruGreen Superfood and/OR Swanson’s Sprouted Flax Powder mixed with Wheat Grass Powder?

    8- Kymythy Schultze a certified clinical nutritionist said:” Calcium can go out of solution when feeding too many vegetables. Keeping normal acidity (low alkaline) in the digestion by avoiding veggies in puppies keeps calcium in solution and won’t deposit excess on the bones.”
    (p.s.: thank you Sharon Buchanan for the quote!)
    Would adding the product from Question 8 result in unbalancing my pups acidity?

    9- i would mix everything up in large batches (some batch will have some ingredients and some will have different ones to “balance” it out in day on day off type of feeding), and separate in individual portion size for an 8 weeks old large pup in air tight sealed bags and then into the freezer. Doing so would i loose any efficiency of certain foods like greens and fish oil?

    *** End comment: I was happy and felt like applauding Mercola.com for funding 300,000$ for the Washington State GMO Labeling Initiative, they are one of the companies, amongst many others, that i buy products from as supplements for my puppy raw diet. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cornucopia.jpg ***

    #36753

    In reply to: Protein and Arthritis

    I would be more concerned with diabetes. Tke her to the vet and have her tested. It is controllable and you need some advice. Buy good but not high carb dog foods. Not science diet or any of those vet sold ones.

    Joint supplements are being highly debated. I don’t know which ones work and many of them don’t. I think you may be seeing a change in food rasing her blood sugar. Good luck and let us know what it turns out to be.

    #36665

    I have an 11 year old Terrier mix with arthritis in one of her front legs. She’s about 23 lbs. She’s been eating Earthborn Primitive Natural for about a month and a half and I ‘ve noticed she’s drinking loads of water since. She’ll drink water for a minute straight, several times a day. This is a dog who would barely touch her water before. I’m glad she’s drinking more, but I’m worried about her. She doesn’t have any kidney problems but will drinking so much overwork them and cause kidney problems later on?

    I know it’s because the food is high-protein. It’s time to buy more, so I was wondering if I should switch to a lower protein food from the same company. I was thinking Meadow Feast or Coastal Catch from Earthborn.

    How important is protein for a dog with arthritis? Should I stay with Primitive Natural or go with lower protein? She’s also taking Nupro as a joint supplement. I haven’t seen much improvement from the Nupro but it’s only been a few weeks.

Viewing 50 results - 2,951 through 3,000 (of 4,398 total)