[anonymous]

I don’t believe this negative stuff about Zignature. My two small breeds are doing very well on the whitefish (lowest in sodium) kibble, and the catfish.
If you go to the Zignature website they answer your questions and disclose sodium levels on all their products.
I had a dog with calcium oxalate bladder stones, struvite crystals and urinary tract infections. It was serious, emergency surgery and all.
From what I could tell, the main culprits were genetic predisposition and inadequate water intake, not the food.
A lot of pet owners serve kibble dry. Put down a bowl of water and assume their dogs are drinking enough….this is often not the case.
Also, expecting these dogs to hold their urine for 10 hours a day is conducive to stagnant conditions in the bladder, perfect environment for crystals and bladder stones to form.
Keep the bladder flushed, offer bathroom breaks at the minimum, every 4 hours (every 2 hours is ideal). Exercise, long walks, keep the weight down. Feed twice a day, measured amounts.
Sorry, if I went off on a rant 🙂
I am just sharing what worked for my dog with this problem.

[pitlove]

Couple people posted on Facebook on a Cane Corso breeder page I follow about it after she said she was switching her dogs to Zignature from taste of the wild. Also on here there are some concerns about the sodium content on the food.

It is tough to find the right food, but for a dog that has suspected food sensitivities you will want to do a proper elimination diet to diagnose. That’s going to be the best way to spend your money.

[Yx]

Hello pitluv – While it it true that we cannot tell the quality of the meats used by simply reading an ingredient label, we do know that there are companies that never use generic by-products, animal digests, meat and bone meals, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring, ingredients sourced from China, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, toxic preservatives such as BHA, BHT, TBHQ and Ethoxyquin,, and those that do.
For example, these are the ingredients in Purina’s Alpo brand Prime Cuts Savory Beef Flavor – Ground Yellow Corn, Meat and Bone Meal, Soybean Meal, Beef Tallow Preserved with Mixed-Tocopherols, Corn Gluten Meal, Egg and Chicken Flavor, Poultry and Pork Digest, Salt, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Red 40, Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Vitamin E Supplement, L-Lysine Monohydrochloride, Yellow 5, Manganese Sulfate, Blue 2, Niacin, Vitamin A Supplement, Copper Sulfate, Calcium Pantothenate, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B-1), Garlic Oil, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B-6), Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement (Vitamin B-2), Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Calcium Iodate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (Source of Vitamin K Activity), Folic Acid, Biotin, Sodium Selenite. I-5020.

It would stand to reason that a company that avoids the above low-quality ingredients would likely be using higher quality meats in their formulations, in fact, there are brands such as ORIJEN that use “human grade ingredients” – “The fresh meats, meat meals and fat ingredients we use are produced exclusively from animals that have been deemed as fit for human consumption, and are produced in category 3 facilities (human grade facilities, no flushing, and no 4-D animal parts permitted on premises). All fruits and vegetables used in ORIJEN foods are also passed as fit for human consumption.” -https://www.orijen.ca/faq/#fresh_regional_ingredients

In any case, I am glad to read that all your animals are doing well.

[zcRiley]

Your Milk Bones Wellness treats have flour and fat fillers plus salt and coloring. Causing more harm than good. Very crude ingredients that reflect its low price point):

Chicken, Wheat Flour, Soybean Flour, Glycerin, Tapioca Flour, Animal Fat (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Water, Salt, Citric Acid (Used as a Preservative), Inulin, Fat Product (Source of Docosahexaenoic Acid), Caramel Color, Calcium Propionate, Beta-Carotene, Zinc Proteinate, Betaine, Zinc Propionate, L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (Source of Vitamin C), Vitamin E Supplement, Natural Mixed Tocopherols (Used as a Preservative), Taurine, Sodium Copper Chlorophyllin, Kale Powder, Rosemary Extract.

However, you’re on the right track to helping your pups’ joint health! I do so with my boys who have bad knees, they fly around like Superman. May I highly recommend for you to get the best…

Dasuquin with MSM for small dogs. Worth every penny. 😊

[anonymous]

Hope this helps:
Flea Allergy Dermatitis or Flea Bite Hypersensitivity
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith

Studies have shown that there are over 15 different antigens in the saliva of the flea. Each one of these is capable of causing an allergic response in a sensitive dog or cat. Despite recent advances in flea control, flea bite allergies and flea bite dermatitis still continue to be common problems.

Preventing flea bites is critical for pets with flea allergies.
Dogs and cats rarely become desensitized to flea bites once they develop an allergy. Dogs and cats that are not allergic to flea bites rarely develop lesions from the bites, but may bite or scratch at the flea when it bites them. Some studies have shown that up to 40% of dogs in any given area will test positive for flea bite allergies. Other studies show that many dogs with flea allergies also have inhalant allergies (atopy) compounding the problem. There does not appear to be a breed or sex predilection for this allergy.
Symptoms

Flea bite allergy is characterized by being a seasonal allergy that is worse during peak flea times in the summer and fall. Even in temperate areas or in cases with home infestations, the symptoms of flea bite allergies appear to worsen in the summer and fall. Dogs that have flea allergies will bite at the base of their tail and scratch frequently. Even a few fleas can cause hours and days of intense itching. Many dogs have a characteristic loss or thinning of hair above the base of the tail. In addition, fleas or flea dirt (feces) can be found on the dog the majority of the time. The feces, or flea dirt will dissolve into a red color when moistened; this is because it is primarily digested blood. However, if the dog is bathed or treated regularly, very little evidence of fleas may be found. Severely affected dogs may itch over their entire bodies, have generalized hair loss, and red inflamed skin. Hot spots are often a result of flea bite allergies.

Flea bite allergy is characterized by being a seasonal allergy that is worse during peak flea times in the summer and fall.
Diagnosis
Diagnosis can be made by visual signs in combination with the presence of fleas or through intradermal skin testing. Intradermal skin testing is a very effective diagnostic tool for this particular allergy, although some false negative results can occur. Since many affected dogs also suffer from other allergies, many times the flea bite antigen is incorporated into a broader intradermal skin testing program.
Treatment
Treatment primarily involves preventing the flea from coming into contact with the dog.
Flea Treatment of Dogs: A number of both topical and oral preparations are available to use as flea control. It is best use an adulticide, which kills the adult fleas, plus an insect growth regulator (IGR) as well. IGRs help to kill immature forms of the flea, preventing them from developing into biting adults. Talk to your veterinarian about what flea product(s) will work for you. In choosing the product(s) your veterinarian will consider the severity of the flea allergy dermatitis, the severity of the flea infestation, how much your dog goes outside, whether there are multiple dogs in the household, how easy it is for you to treat your dog, etc.
Treatment of Environment: Environmental treatment for fleas involves treating the house, outside areas the dog may frequent, and especially sleeping areas of the dog with a product that kills the adults (adulticide) and with an insect growth regulator as well. Another alternative is to use sodium polyborate powder (eg., Fleabusters). Vacuuming, and proper disposal of the cleaner bag are also very beneficial. Other pets in the home should also be treated as they could continue to bring fleas into the environment. While injudicious use of pesticides and growth regulators is never recommended, an effective flea prevention program is much safer and easier than dealing with a full blown flea infestation.
Hyposensitization: Hyposensitization of dogs with a series of injections does not appear to be very effective.

[anonymous]

The 4 Best Fruits and Vegetables for Dogs
If altering your pet’s diet, there are a number of benefits to fruits and vegetables for dogs. Dogs are omnivores rather than carnivores, meaning they can enjoy a mixed combination of fruits, vegetables and meat and all of the benefits that they have to offer.
Here are the top 4 fruits and vegetables to take into consideration:
1. Bananas
Bananas are a fun addition to your dog’s meals, as well as for a special treat, especially because of the variety of ways in which it can be prepared. Banana biscuits, muffins, frozen, baked, or even simply mashed up, will likely be devoured by your eager pet. Bananas are high in soluble carbohydrates, so they’re an excellent source of energy. The antioxidants they contain are helpful to a dog’s fur and skin. Bananas are also rich in Vitamin C, are low in sodium, and rich with potassium. All these things are a great addition to your pet’s diet.
2. Carrots
Carrots have the benefit of being not only one of the tastier vegetables to dogs, but also one of the healthiest. Carrots are high in every vitamin from A, B, C, D, E and K. Not to mention that they’re packed with potassium, calcium and iron, while being low in calories at the same time. Carrots can be given raw, or baked or cooked.
3. Green Beans
Green beans are another tastier vegetable on the list that can replace those high-calorie treats from the store. In addition to being used in raw or home-cooked diets, it’s becoming more common to replace 1/3 to 1/2 of kibble with green beans to promote weight loss in obese dogs. Unless you have a very large dog, they won’t go through an entire can a day, so simply store the excess in the fridge for tomorrow’s meals.
4. Strawberries
Strawberries are known for containing an enzyme that helps to whiten teeth, which can be helpful for you pet on top of the vitamins they pack. However, while your dog will happily scarf down an entire bowl of these, keep in mind they’re high in sugar and should be given in moderation. Think of them as a dessert-treat.
As with any diet for your pet, balance and moderation is the key; don’t replace more than 20% of their meal with fruits and vegetables. Also keep in mind that while a wide variety of fruits and vegetables are healthy for your pet, always check with your veterinarian before making any big dietary changes. Some fruits/vegetables can be harmful or even fatal, such as onions, garlic, avocados, grapes, raisins or any citrus fruits (as the acid will upset their stomach). Always start your dog out on small amounts of fruits and vegetables if they’re unaccustomed to eating them so their digestive system has a chance to adapt.
(Excerpt from) https://www.vetinfo.com/the-4-best-fruits-vegetables-for-dogs.html

[Vikki A]

The response by anon101 above is correct about the low sodium diets. % does not help in figuring out sodium mg/100kcal, at least when I compared the % list I received from a company to the list I received from the Cardiologist. The % looked ok, but was over what the recommendations were. My Lab has CHF and the Cardiologist recommended 45-80mg/100kcal of sodium. Doug is what they consider to be moderate sodium restriction.

[anonymous]

Per a simple Google search and the search engine here “sodium”
Purina Pro Plan Focus Sensitive Skin & Stomach Salmon & Rice
https://www.k9ofmine.com/best-low-sodium-dog-food excerpt below

Generally speaking, most veterinarians use the following categories when discussing low-sodium diets (it usually easier to use the amount of sodium provided for each 100 calories as your unit of measure when comparing foods):
Dogs with no sodium restrictions require food with at least 0.5% sodium content (>100mg sodium/100kCal)
Dogs who require mild sodium restriction should be offered foods with between 0.35% and 0.5% sodium content (80 to 100mg/100kCal)
Dogs who require moderate sodium restriction should only receive foods with between 0.1% and 0.35% sodium content (50 to 80mg/100kCal)
Dogs who require severe sodium restriction should be offered food with less than 0.1% sodium content (<50mg/100kCal)
While the AAFCO doesn’t address the maximum amount of sodium dogs can ingest safely, the National Research Council of the National Academies does. According to their guidelines, a 33-pound dog who burns about 1,000 Calories per day should not consume more than 2,000 milligrams per day. They do not explicitly state how to extrapolate this figure, as calorie consumption and body weight do not necessarily have a linear relationship.

Copied from Reviews:https://disqus.com/by/zignaturedogfood/ excerpt below
Zignature Dog Food • 3 months ago
Regardless of their name we sincerely apologize for your experience with our customer service team. We never want our fans or possible fans to have a bad experience dealing with us.
Here is the correct sodium levels for all of our Zignature formulas:
Salmon-0.72%
Venison-0.60%
Kangaroo-0.67%
Whitefish-0.51%
Duck-0.70%
Lamb-0.62%
Trout & Salmon-0.57%
Turkey-0.54%
Zssential-0.52%

[Krista B]

Hello,

Does anyone know the recommended amount of sodium (on a dry matter bais) and the safe upper limit of sodium? Im in the process of contacting several vets regarding this information but I’m wondering if anyone happens to know this. I’ve read and been told by one vet that the recommended range is between 0.3-0.5% dry matter basis. But I’ve also had a vet tell me as high as 1.21% was ok. I’m currently feeding Natural Balance limited ingredient diets and the chicken formula has a sodium level of 1.21%. This seems rather high to me I’m wondering what anyone else thinks of this? I’m looking into a few other brands at the moment. What’s hard is that a prefer a limited ingredient diet because my dog seems to do best on those. My preference is also less than 400 calories per cup and moderate protein and fat. This makes it rather hard to find a suitable dog food. I’m willing to make exceptions if necessary. Right now I’m looking into merrick limited ingredient diets and canidae limited ingredient small breed formulas. I’m also considering sticking to natural balance and using their lower sodium formulas. But what makes me hesitant is that they wouldn’t necessarily be shy about upping the other formulas sodium levels. Does anyone have any suggestions of good brands or know anything about sodium levels? Thanks so much!

[noelle o]

I do not personally make my own vegan dog food…there are recipies out there. I buy my dog vet approved vegan kibble…benevo uk supplier in the current case…royal canin canada etc etc …details on the website links I provided I suggest looking to those links to get more details on the contents of different vegan petfoods. http://vegan-information.com/Vegan_Dogs_and_Cats.html my Benevo vegan dogfood details are on their website here…★ Wheat-free Recipe
★ No GM Ingredients
★ Certified Organic
★ Contains Prebiotic FOS
★ Foil Fresh Packaging

Composition: Organic soya bean, organic white rice, organic barley, organic oats, organic sunflower oil, brewers yeast, beet pulp, vitamins and minerals, fructooligosaccharides (prebiotic FOS; min. 0.1%), yucca schidigera extract (min. 0.05%)
Analytical Constituents: Protein 20%, Fat Content 12%, Crude Fibre 4.0%, Ash 3.5%, Moisture 8%.
Additives per Kg: Nutritional Additives: Vitamins; Vitamin A (as retinyl acetate) 17,224 IU, Vitamin D2 (as ergocalciferol) 2,392 IU, Vitamin E 120 IU. Trace Elements: Iron (as Ferrous Sulphate Monohydrate) 159 mg, Zinc (as Zinc Sulphate Monohydrate) 133 mg, Manganese (as Manganous Sulphate Monohydrate) 105 mg, Copper (as Cupric Sulphate Pentahydrate) 45 mg, Selenium (as Sodium Selenite) 0.6 mg, Iodine (as Calcium Iodate Anhydrous) 1.5 mg, Linoleic Acid (Omega 6) 6.54%, Linolenic Acid (Omega 3) 0.46%. http://www.benevo.com/vegan-dog-food/#benevo-dog-organic

[anonymous]

Purina Pro Plan Focus Sensitive Skin & Stomach Salmon & Rice

best-low-sodium-dog-food

[anonymous]

Informative article from: Drs Foster and Smith Pet Education dot com
excerpt below

Antacids/Phosphate Binders (Maalox, Milk of Magnesia)
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith

Generic and Brand Names
Aluminum Hydroxide: AlternaGEL,    Amphojel
Aluminum Magnesium Hydroxide: Maalox
Calcium Acetate: Phos-Ex, PhosLo
Magnesium Hydroxide: Milk of Magnesia
Calcium Carbonate: Tums
Type of Drug
Antacid
Form and Storage
Powders, suspensions, and capsules
Store at room temperature unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer.
Indications for Use
Prevention and treatment of stomach ulcers and esophageal reflux (heartburn), reduction of hyperphosphatemia (increased amount of phosphorus in the blood) in patients with kidney failure.
General Information
FDA approved for use in large animals in veterinary medicine. It is an accepted practice to use these medications in small animal medicine. Available over the counter, but should always be used under the direction of a veterinarian. Because of the newer, easier to dose medications available such as cimetidine, aluminum magnesium hydroxide is not used as frequently for stomach ulcers and esophageal reflux. It is still used to reduce phosphorous levels in the blood in patients with kidney failure. Before use, consult with your veterinarian and carefully check over-the-counter (nonprescription) medications for ingredients that may be deadly to pets.
Usual Dose and Administration
Consult your veterinarian. Duration of treatment depends on reason for treatment and response to treatment. Pets generally do not like the taste making it difficult to get the pet to take the products.
Side Effects
Depending upon the product, may see lack of appetite, constipation, or diarrhea. May see electrolyte imbalances in some patients due to the levels of magnesium, aluminum, sodium, and potassium in the products.
Contraindications/Warnings
Do not use magnesium containing products in animals with kidney failure.
Use with caution in patients who need restricted amounts of sodium or potassium in their diets.
Use aluminum containing products with caution in patients with an obstruction in the stomach emptying disorders or obstruction.
Use calcium or aluminum containing products with caution in patients with kidney disease.
Do not use in pregnant or nursing animals.
Long-term use can damage the kidneys; aluminum-containing products can cause muscle weakness and thinning of the bones.
Drug or Food Interactions
Due to changes in the acidity of the stomach, emptying time of the stomach, or by chelation of the drugs, all oral medications may be affected. If must give multiple medications, separate dosages by at least 2 hours.
Tetracycline antibiotics may not be absorbed if given with antacids.
Antacids may decrease the absorption or effects of chlordiazepoxide, captopril, chloroquine, cimetidine, corticosteroids, digoxin, iron salts, indomethicin, isoniazid, ketoconazole, nitrofurantoin, pancreatic enzymes, penicillamine, phenothiazines, phenytoin, ranitidine, and valproic acid.
Antacids may increase the absorption or effects of aspirin, dicumarol, flecainide, quinidine, and sympathomimetics like ephedrine.
Do not use calcium containing products in patients using digoxin/digitalis as abnormal heart rhythms may result.
If using to decrease high blood phosphorus levels, give with meals.
Overdose/Toxicity
May see electrolyte imbalances which can cause weakness and heart arrhythmias. Long-term use of aluminum-containing products can cause muscle weakness, thinning of the bones, and aluminum toxicity. Long term use of other products can damage the kidneys.
Summary
Antacids should be used under the direction of a veterinarian for the treatment and prevention of stomach disorders and to lower high phosphorous levels in animals with kidney failure. Consult with your veterinarian if your pet experiences muscle weakness, constipation, diarrhea, or lack of appetite while taking antacids.
  

[Mary G]

Hello!!

My 11 year-old beagle just got diagnosed with moderate heart disease. He shows no symptoms but we found out about his enlarged heart because he had a respiratory infection which got taken care of. He is doing great now but the vet suggested we put him on a low sodium diet. We live in Mexico for the moment and there are quite a few brands not available here.

What would you recommend we try? I cannot buy Akana, EVO or even Wellness. We currently have him on Royal Canin Mature Consult. What would other suggestions be? We have a Petco here but we do have a limited amount of brands to choose from. I checked out Tufts suggestions via their website but I am reluctant to try any of the Hills products. Please help, I need guidance. Thanks!!!!

[anonymous]

Go to skeptvet dot com and use the search engine to look up glucosamine

Pro Plan sensitive is a good food and often recommended by veterinarians.
Zignature is a quality kibble, grain free, potato free. My dogs do well on the Whitefish (lowest sodium content of all the Zignatures) I would add a splash of water and a bite of real food.
I might want to avoid potato/sweet potato, hard to digest for some dogs

Ps: I would listen to the advice of a veterinarian that has examined your dog over someone that works at the pet supply store. I know they mean well, just saying.

[anonymous]

Natural Balance is loaded with potato and sweet potato which doesn’t agree with some dogs that have sensitive stomachs, hard to digest.
Glucosamine chondroitin is a supplement and may not be necessary. What does your veterinarian recommend? I would go by that.
Go here for science based veterinary medicine
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=glucosamine
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/herbs-and-supplements/

Pro Plan sensitive is a good food and often recommended by veterinarians.
Zignature is a quality kibble, grain free, potato free. My dogs do well on the Whitefish (lowest sodium content of all the Zignatures) I would add a splash of water and a bite of real food.

[anonymous]

Pro Plan sensitive is a good food and often recommended by veterinarians.
Zignature is a quality kibble, grain free, potato free. My dogs do well on the Whitefish (lowest sodium content of all the Zignatures) I would add a splash of water and a bite of real food.
Natural Balance is loaded with potato and sweet potato which doesn’t agree with some dogs that have sensitive stomachs, hard to digest.
Glucosamine chondroitin is a supplement and may not be necessary
Go here for science based veterinary medicine
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=glucosamine
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/herbs-and-supplements/

[anonymous]

I mix it in, in fact I have to use a dome dish for one of them so that he will eat slowly.

I also add a splash of water, they gobble everything down.

I am using Zignature Whitefish (the least sodium of the Zignatures) as a base and I am impressed.
I will try Salmon and Trout next.

[anonymous]

Excerpt from Chewy, only one review so far, I would ignore it 🙂
https://www.chewy.com/purina-beneful-grain-free-real-farm/dp/143869

Chicken, Pea Starch, Cassava Root Flour, Chicken By-Product Meal, Soybean Germ Meal, Soybean Meal, Canola Meal, Beef Tallow Preserved with Mixed-Tocopherols, Dried Beet Pulp, Poultry and Pork Digest, Mono and Dicalcium Phosphate, Soybean Oil, Salt, Calcium Carbonate, Potassium Chloride, Blueberries, Dried Pumpkin, Dried Spinach, Minerals [Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite], Vitamins [Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin (Vitamin B-3), Vitamin A Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B-5), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B-6), Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B-1), Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement (Vitamin B-2), Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (Vitamin K), Folic Acid (Vitamin B-9), Biotin (Vitamin B-7)], Choline Chloride, Iron Oxide (Color), Garlic Oil. A-4096.
Caloric Content
3522 kcal/kg, 349 kcal/cup
Crude Protein
24.0% min
Crude Fat
13.0% min
Crude Fiber
5.0% max
Moisture
12.0% max
Linoleic Acid
1.2% min
Calcium
1.0% min
Vitamin A
10,000 IU/kg
Vitamin E
100 IU/kg

[Althea J]

I have a six month old Keeshond and I supplement whatever kibble she likes or I have at the moment with Freshpet puppy food, scrambled egg ( I use olive oil to cook it) a bit of chicken, lamb, beef ( whatever I have handy) low sodium chicken stock (make sure it has no onion) she also likes a bit of ricotta or goat cheese added to kibble (I tried plain yogurt she did not care for it) a sprinkle of hard cheese, a bit of canned salmon or a cooked sweet potato cut into pieces. So far so good. She is teething right now so she loves ice cubes or a piece of frozen broccoli or carrot. I try to vary what I add to her kibble! I read that olive oil is good for their coats and I use this anyway to cook our food. She likes an occasional piece of apple as a treat as well. I do use bully sticks for chewing pleasure for her. Some days she eats more some days less. I try not to worry too much. Hope that helps🐶

[anonymous]

Maybe the sardines didn’t agree with him. They are high in sodium.
For a low calorie snack I give my dogs 1/2 of a raw carrot here and there.
If you try this, don’t be alarmed if you see orange carrot chunks in their feces, they don’t really digest them but it doesn’t hurt them, it’s all fiber.
PS: Also, make sure the dog chews the carrot, some dogs try to swallow them whole (choking hazard), in that case, maybe chopping them up would be better.

[Christie]

Anon101- I was mistaken. Blood was taken when they brought him to the back room to cut his nails. I’m so used to going to the vet that I don’t even look at the receipt when I sign my money away. But there’s a $135 charge for a workup. I thought that it was the same as anesthesia pretesting that was on the dental procedure estimate. My vet was annoyed that the walk-in didn’t do much of anything (they didn’t even spot the ulcer on the bottom of Chance’s jaw).

Susan, thanks for the suggestions. I’ll look into the TOTW. Thinking back now, I made another change when I switched to Wellness Core Reduced Fat. Neither of my two dogs likes to eat kibble. Last year I added 1/4 can of canned food mixed with the kibble. That had mixed results. They’d like it for 3 meals then refuse to eat it after. I’d switch up the proteins and the types (stews vs. pate) but I seemed to be wasting more than what was being consumed. Not to mention the added calories that caused the weight gain. So I cut out the cans completely. I sprinkled a tiny bit of cheese on the food and they’d eat it for the most part (my little one usually ate around the kibble to get to the cheese but once she got hungry enough, she’d eat the kibble). But I know cheese isn’t the healthiest option, so I tried low sodium chicken broth. Dogs liked it for a few days and then I had to deal with throwing out soggy kibble that they wouldn’t touch. I tried adding canned pumpkin. Worked for 2 meals and then that was it.

So I scoured different sites and forums to see what people added to kibble. Apples and sardines were two things that I hadn’t previously thought about. Apples didn’t add much in the way of calories and the sardines had all the oils and fatty acids that are beneficial. I didn’t hear anything bad about sardines, only that you should avoid ones that aren’t canned with water and that you shouldn’t feed them in both meals.

I would cut up an apple and split it between both dogs with their morning meal. And I would split a small can of sardines for the evening meal. They definitely like the evening meal more, but they’ll reluctantly eat the kibble with the apple pieces mixed in the morning.

That said, could either the apples or sardines cause the possible upset stomach/acid reflux? Because I started giving them around the same time as the kibble switch.

[M N]

Louise, I appreciate your input. I think you may have the food I mentioned confused with something else…

Salmon Meal, Menhaden Fish Meal, Dried Potato, Dried Peas, Sweet Potato, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), Potato Protein, Flaxseed Meal, Brewers Dried Yeast, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Dried Egg Product, Canola Oil, Natural Flavors, Salt, Lecithin, Choline Chloride, Dried Chicory Root, L-Carnitine, Dried Carrots, Dried Cranberries, Dried Blueberries, Yucca Schidigera extract, Ascorbic Acid, Minerals (Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Copper Proteinate, Manganese Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite), Vitamins (Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement), Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Yeast Culture, Dried Enterococcus Faecium Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Aspergillus Niger Fermentation Extract, Dried Trichoderma Longibrachiatum Fermentation Extract, Dried Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Extract.

Metabolized Energy – AS FED- 1835 kcal/lb
Crude Protein Minimum 32.0%
Crude Fat Minimum 18.0%
Crude Fiber Maximum 5.5%
Total Ash 8.2%
Moisture Maximum 12.0%
Calcium Minimum 1.2%
Phosphorous Minimum 1.0%
Average Calcium 1.29%
Average Phosphorus 1.03%
Vitamin A Minimum 10,000 Iu/Kg
Vitamin E Minimum 80 Iu/Kg
Chondroitin Minimum 90 Mg/Kg*
Glucosamine Minimum 120 Mg/Kg*
DHA Minimum 0.05%*
EPA Minimum 0.01%*
Vitamin C Minimum 25 Mg/Kg*
Omega-6 Fatty Acid Minimum 3.5%*
Omega-3 Fatty Acid Minimum 1.5%*

Black Gold does have some grain inclusive formulas that do not interest me. They list digestibility for those in the low to mid 80s, which is what I would expect from a grain inclusive food.

[zcRiley]

Increase moisture intake, allow to urinate as much as possible. Fast track is to switch to grain free canned food only (for as long as you can) and low sodium broths between meals. Add some flavor to water bowls. Make popsicles. ZiwiPeak and Lotus make superb wet food; worth the cost since high ph can lead to many more complications.

[m r]

Our 5 pound, 10 year old Papillon had 3 bladder stones removed last month. The analysis showed that they were Calcium Phosphate Carbonate. I was only able to find limited research matching the specificity of her condition, and have lots of questions. I would love guidance from someone who has experience with this specific type of stone? What have you done that’s worked? Our Vet told us there’s a 50/50 chance of recurrence, and even after surgery, there is still blood in her urine.

She goes on a wee wee pad – so can urinate freely, which she does, . . . frequently! The blood in her urine appears pinkish/red. She was on Carprofen immediately following surgery – but bloody urine persisted, so Vet switched her to a different anti-inflammatory – Meloxidyl. This seemed to work because we weren’t noticing blood in her urine 10 days after we started Meloxidyl, so we were told to stop. But shortly after stopping Meloxidyl, we noticed the blood in her urine resumed. The Vet took some additional X-Rays and did a Sonogram, and told us that she still has some clotting and debris from either the surgery or from ongoing cystitis (bladder inflammation); and that while she still may be creating some sediment, thankfully stones have not developed over the last 3+/- weeks since surgery. How long does it take for the sediment to form? Is it possible for sediment to form merely weeks after surgery?

Our Vet prescribed Hill’s C/D (stating she needs a diet lower in protein, phosphorus, and calcium). She was on a diet of Natural Balance – variety of flavors since we got her (only weeks old). We’ve been feeding her the Hill’s C/D food for one week now (she wouldn’t eat the canned, so we feed dry soaked in water . . . soupy consistency). Vet did a unrinalysis yesterday, which showed pH of 8.5. How long should it take for the food to alter her pH? He suggested we use a dipstick (which he said we can purchase online and touch it to the urine on the wee wee pad) to test her urine daily. But, if we determine that her pH is not where is should be, what else are we supposed to feed her to help manage the pH to around 6.5/7 (where the Vet would like it to be)?

Urine culture results are not yet back, but last time they didn’t show anything out of the ordinary.

In addition to suggesting Hill’s C/D prescription diet, and monitoring the urine pH at home daily, the Vet also recommends diagnostic testing at his office including urinalysis ( every 3 months), urine culture( every 3 months), radiographs/x-rays (every 6 months). We still aren’t clear what to do if pH doesn’t go down? i.e. how do we get it to decrease? I read somewhere that we’re supposed to be feeding a diet rich in animal-based protein to help increase acidic pH vs. alkaline, but based on the type of stones she had (CALCIUM PHOSPHATE CARBONATE UROLITHS), we’re supposed to feed her a diet low in animal protein. So what to do?

Also, how do we get her to drink more water? We already soak the dry kibble in hot water an hour +/- before serving. We also refresh her water throughout the day and night. I don’t want to add sodium to her diet, because I read somewhere that dogs with her type of stones are also supposed to stay away from salt.

Thank you in advance for any guidance you can provide!

[Samantha P]

Hi,

I have a 6 month old Lab/Australian Cattle Dog mix. She consistently turns her nose up at dry dog food and will get bored of a new dog food after 2-3 meals. I initially had her on Royal Canin Maxi Puppy (the large bag was given to me when i first got her), and then she got bored of it after about the 2nd bag of it. I wanted to move her onto a better food anyway so i got her Wellness Core which she liked for a day or two. Now, I’ve just gotten the Blue Buffalo Wilderness (the one with the baby wolf on the front) and she thoroughly enjoyed it the first 2 times she had it and now she seems over it. I want to try the tough love approach with her but I feel bad (go figure aha!). When I just tried feeding her lunch she wasn’t having it so I took the food away and will try again at dinner. I know that if she was given something (like table food) she’d eat it with no issue! Her energy levels are still great, stool is firm and doesn’t seem to have any sores etc in her mouth.

I’ve tried high grade, low sodium chicken stock when she was eating the Wellness Core which would work 75% of the time, but I’d rather not have her reliant on that.

Any other suggestions? I’m pretty open to anything.

Thanks!

[Laurie F]

High sodium diet: anything above 0.5%

Hi Whitney,
My original posting included the following: “No risk or mild sodium restrictions include 0.35% to 0.5% equivalent to 100mg/l00kCal; Moderate sodium restriction include 0.1% to 0.35% equivalent to about 80mg/100kCal; Severe sodium restriction is anything less than 0.1% or about 50mg/100kCal.” I find it annoying that they include a bunch of dog foods that seem to be high in sodium content (at least for us), but one has to divvy it down to the risk factor. I am holding to kibble that is 53mg sodium, and kibble that is NO MORE than low 60’s mg sodium. I tried Royal Canin that is actually a prescription kibble @ 50mg. Riley tried eating it once, and after that it was a NO GO! I think she thought I was punishing her! I ended up donating the very pricey bag of food.

I applaud you for caring for the CHF rescue dogs and bringing them into a loving home! I agree with you that I’d also feel very guilty feeding a dog crappy food. Don’t do it! Since she has rotting, maybe painful teeth, there is plenty of low(er) sodium, healthy canned food for her to eat and excellent lower sodium (very soft baked) dog treats. The vet could have suggested Hills Cardio canned food, but it sounds like he’s kinda written her off. You mentioned that you had the Vet put her on Vetmedin? Wasn’t she prescribed that medication when she was originally diagnosed with CHF? I doubt Riley would be here today without Vetmedin from the getgo. Out of respect for my regular vet and a slightly lower cost, I have him do a full blood run every 3 months so I and the Cardiologist can monitor other bodily functions. But that’s about it for her regular vet. If you are upping the Lasix mg (or Salix mg) for her, there is always the possibility her Potassium level may drop, necessitating a daily potassium supplement. Riley takes 12.5 Salix, one in the a.m. and 1 1/2 in the p.m. Only one time early on last year did I have to give her a 1/4 tsp of RenaKare potassium gel (very inexpensive) daily for a brief period of time. Are you also giving the Chinese Crested a higher dosage of Salix since he’s having some issues with fluid build-up? Does he cough? I have only had one incident of ‘fainting’ and Riley letting out high pitched yelps/screams (couldn’t get enough oxygen) and that was the original emergency visit at 1:00 am last April. She had a whole bunch of fluid in her chest. It wasn’t until months later that I asked the Cardio doc why she was ‘screaming’ at the time of the event/collapse. He could only say that he presumed what was happening was really frightening to her in that split second and that the screaming was her fear reaction. No recurrences of fluid build up based on least 3 x-rays over the past year. I noted early on that she did have some increased respiratory in rest mode so Cardio doc increased her Salix to 1 1/2 tab in the evening. She pees like a race horse, but I’d like to think she’s getting rid of that lousy excess fluid in the process. I also understand that a high protein diet (along with the lower sodium food/diet) is attributable to controlling fluid build-up. I repeat, I’ve only been able to get her to eat kibble that is 53mg and another one that is in the low 60’s mg. She also gets high protein chicken (breast and or broiled/baked ground turkey) little portions that I mush into her moistened kibble. Keep in mind, that once I have cooked up a couple of pounds of my ground turkey ‘recipe’, I toss it in the freezer until I need it. I am not living in the kitchen daily to bake or cook! And yes, as a change of pace a few times per month, she gets some low fat/lean minced bits of broiled ground round and some rice mushed into moistened kibble. A quarter pound patty lasts a couple of days for both dogs’ dinners.

Lastly, you might consider giving both or one of them Vetri Cardio Canine by VetriScience. There are 60 bite-sized chews to a bag. One ‘chew’ is for larger wieght dogs, so I cut one ‘chew’ in half and give Riley and Tutzie their respective piece. I’d have 120 chews if I wasn’t treating non-CHF Tutzie… It’s a heart supplement that was highly recommended to me by another CHF dog owner… the gal whose CHF dog is now 16++. You can view it on Chewy.com. If you do buy it, don’t buy the capsules, buy the chews.

Does the rescue group afford xrays/echo cardiograms (probably not ultra-sounds) for the rescue dogs? I know there are some rescue groups that have unreal medical equipment at their disposal. I adore my vet of 25+++ years. However, I will admit that I had concerns about him treating my dog for cardiomyopathy, degenerative valve disease, or congenital heart failure. It’s just not his speciality and he knows that.

[Laurie F]

Hi Whitney,

I think the following link is posted here or somewhere on Dog Food Advisor… did you have a chance to review it? http://www.vermontveterinarycardiology.com/Medvet%20–%20Cincinnati%20%20Heart%20Friendly%20Low%20Sodium%20Dog%20Diets.pdf

Riley (female miniature schnauzer 11+ y/o now) has always been a bit of a finicky eater BEFORE CHF, so I have jumped around a bit with various lower sodium dog kibble that she will eat. Right now, she’s eating Wellness Adult Deboned Chicken Brown Rice/Peas (53mg sodium.) I also entice her appetite by adding a little bit of lean (broiled or baked) ground turkey or boiled chicken breast that I (minimally) shred up into a moistened kibble. Riley also likes Hill’s Ideal Balance chicken. I usually buy a quality food from Chewy and whatever I order for Riley. Tutzie also must eat, and Thank God, Tutz will eat anything. BUT, if I do order a food that Riley will not touch, Chewy will take it backBoth dogs have ideal weight. I have found that Senior dog foods do not always mean they are low in sodium. Even though my dogs are ‘senior’, I am not necessarily going to buy Senior foods. For me, I really need to buy good kibble that’s lower in sodium that Riley will actually eat. She lost a good 1/2 to 3/4 pound after she was diagnosed and it was hell getting that weight back on for the first 3 months. I have a friend of a friend (who referred me to my current Cardiologist) whose rescue was diagnosed at age 12 with CHF. Her dog is now over 16 and still going on not only her normal walks, but also hikes with her. (her dog is also a terribly finicky eater who gets an occasional hamburger!)

I assume your dogs are on Vetmedin and in particular Lasix (or Salix) for the edema? What are the ages and size of your dogs? What have you been feeding them? Is one or both a finicky eater?

Best regards,
Laurie

[Whitney L]

Laurie F, did you end up finding a quality dog food for CHF with low sodium? I have two rescues with CHF, one also has pulmonary edema.

[Kim H]

I wonder if I could just put her on a good quality, low protein, low sodium food that is similiar to Hills CD? I had her on the raw and I think that’s why her PH went back up and the crystals came back….too much protein.

[Laurie F]

Hi Gina
I just joined Dog Food Advisor because I have been looking for other low sodium dog kibble that is ‘palatable’ to my miniature schnauzer. She was diagnosed in April 2016 with congenital heart disease/mitral valve etc. I realize your posting was over 2 years ago, but the information you posted regarding sodium content may be misleading. For example, Wellness Complete Care Small Breed Senior Deboned Turkey and Peas lists their sodium content at not more than 30%. I thought ‘great, I found the perfect food’. However, one must take that information a few steps further to determine the sodium content in milligrams per 100kcal. With this specific Wellness dog kibble, it is actually 85.73 mg NA (sodium), and that is HIGH for my dog. I have another Science Diet food at 36% sodium, but that worked out to be a sodium of about 99 mg/100kcal. No risk or mild sodium restrictions include 0.35% to 0.5% equivalent to 100mg/l00kCal; Moderate sodium restriction include 0.1% to 0.35% equivalent to about 80mg/100kCal; Severe sodium restriction is anything less than 0.1% or about 50mg/100kCal. The following is the FORMULA: get the sodium percentage from the bag. If it’s not there, many good dog food manufacturers post it on their website for the specific dog food you are considering. They will also post the Metabolizable Energy (kCal/kg, as fed). Wellness posted a Metabolizable Energy of 3499 Kcal/kg and 0.30% sodium. Take 0.30 and divide by 3499 and then multiply by 1,000,000 to obtain the sodium content in milligrams per 100 kcal. I’m just thankful I didn’t feed my dog anymore than a couple cups of this very bad for her health kibble!

• This reply was modified 9 years, 4 months ago by Laurie F.

[Daisy F]

Hello All,

On Monday, of this week 10/17/16, I received the call from the vet, after determining blood results, that my beloved mini schnauzer Lily (12.5 years old – and have had her since 3 months) is diagnosed with in the beginning stages of chronic kidney disease. She has the physical symptoms of excessive drinking, excessive urinating inside, and lost of weight (stable 16.5 lbs down to 12 lbs). Her appetite is still there; however; as the vet encourages me this is still a good sign for her.

I am not resorting to putting on diapers for her as, she is my baby, and has always been spoiled; and it makes me sad to have to resort to diapers in order to prevent urination on our wooden floors, but an easy 30 second clean-up I do not mind doing.

Anyway, here are her important blood results:

BUN 38 (normal range 7-25)
PHOS 7.0 (normal range 2.9-6.6)
CRE 1.7 (normal range 0.3-1.4)

Vet instructed to start providing her Hills k/d canned food diet, and as I looked on the reviews online; all are fantastic (low sodium, low phosphorus, low protein) diet, although vet said reducing her protein is not necessarily suggested at this point because her protein levels are fine. So I guess my question is what sorts of fresh homemade food am I able to still provide to her in combination of the Hills k/d diet? Keeping in mind her sodium levels and phosphorus levels need to be given in low amounts? What foods are these? Ive researched but become overwhelmed with the information given and then it feels like its contradicting to other materials and feel lost and confused and not as confident about providing the nutrition she needs; without going broke on my end. Money is not a huge issue for me; but with the prescribed canned diet; alone- it will be difficult to manage that on itself.

Lily also started taking prebiotic and probiotic supplements to aide. Any other supplements I should know about? I am taking her back to the vet today after work; since the vet also suggested starting her on fluid therapy to help keep her hydrated. She will be instructing me how to do it at home and Lily wouldn’t need it all the time; but would need to keep an eye on her.

She went in for her first IV treatment yesterday (as the first step towards her supportive care) and started her prescribed diet. Her personality is still all there; and I know she is getting much older; I would just appreciate anything descriptive resource/link that would help me in this difficult process and definitely a new lifestyle change for my babygirl.

I took the day of work yesterday, since I was still in tears finding out about her disease and how serious it could get so I was able to do my own research.

I have found this website http://www.dogaware.com/health/kidneymedical.html#acidosis to be helpful as well.

If you have any questions for me about her condition; I will certainly answer them; any information helps 🙂

Momma Daisy

[Jane E]

http://vet.tufts.edu/wp-content/uploads/low-sodium-diet-list-for-dogs-2015.pdf

[Eve R]

Does anyone have suggestions for a Low Sodium Dog Food for a Cavalier in Congestive Heart Failure? The dog is 8 years old, on three different drugs and likely won’t live long. The vet said low sodium foods but couldn’t recommend anything in particular.
If anyone has any experience or thoughts, or suggestions (besides raw) I’d appreciate it…
Thanks,

[Derek g]

I’m sorry if this has been discussed, but I can’t seem to find it anywhere on this site. I’m looking to switch my dogs from Acana Pacifica to a more budget friendly, comparable brand (I know, its going to be extremely tough to find – but the price in Hawaii is killing me on a single income!). Has anyone heard of this brand (WholeHearted)? It looks like it’s a Petco exclusive brand, and is relatively new. When looking at the ingredients on Petco’s website for the WholeHearted All Life Stages Dog Food – Grain Free Salmon & Pea, 25 lbs., I noticed Canola Oil is pretty high up there on the list of ingredients. Is that reason enough to not choose this food? I haven’t seen an actual review of the food anywhere, or an actual analysis of the ingredients.

I’ve included the link to the food (http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/wholehearted-grain-free-lid-salmon-adult-dog-food#), and the ingredients list from their website is below. I’d love to hear opinions of WholeHearted (and, of course, any other alternatives to Acana Pacifica, one might have!). Until then, I’ll keep combing the board for other suggestions, and also so I don’t ask any redundant questions. Thanks friends!

Ingredients
Salmon, Salmon Meal, Lentils, Pea Flour, Chickpeas, Peas, Canola Oil (Preserved With Mixed Tocopherols), Tomato Pomace, Sweet Potatoes, Flaxseed, Natural Flavor, Salmon Oil, Salt, Choline Chloride, Dried Chicory Root, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Bifidobacterium Animalis Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus Reuteri Fermentation Product, Vitamin E Supplement, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Potassium Iodide, Thiamine Mononitrate (Source Of Vitamin B1), Manganese Proteinate, Manganous Oxide, Ascorbic Acid (Preservative), Vitamin A Supplement, Biotin, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Manganese Sulfate, Sodium Selenite, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Source Of Vitamin B6), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid.

Guaranteed Analysis
Crude Protein 26.0% Minimum, Crude Fat 15% Minimum, Crude Fiber 5.0% Maximum, Moisture 10.0% Maximum, Zinc 150 Mg/Kg Minimum, Selenium 0.3 Mg/Kg Minimum, Vitamin E 150 Iu/Kg Minimum, Omega-6 Fatty Acids* 2.5% Minimum, Omega-3 Fatty Acids* 0.4% Minimum, Total Microorganisms* 1,000,000 Cfu/Lb Minimum (Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Bifidobacterium Animalis, Lactobacillus Reuteri In Descending Amounts), *Not Recognized As An Essential Nutrient By The Aafco Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.3,625 Kcal/Kg (339 Kcal/Cup) Calculated Metabolizable Energy

[Michael G]

We have two toy poodles that are 14 weeks old. I have two questions?

1) I need to find a lower calorie and lower sodium soft treat for a training treat. What does the adviser recommend?

2) Is it recommended to feed a combination of dry hard and soft wet food?

Both puppies eat well, we just want to make sure we give them the right foods for their long term health

[Susan]

Hi,
One thing about senior foods some are higher in fiber & lower in fat, as a dog gets older they aren’t as active, cause your dog is young will that be OK?? make sure you read the Guaranteed Analysis & make sure fat is 10% & higher & fiber is around 4%…. Holistic Select Chicken Meal Senior looks pretty good & I seen salt under Sodium Selenite in the ingredients but pass half way, so does that mean there’s less?? also salt will be in some of the ingredients, so your best to find a few kibbles you like even normal adult kibbles & email companies for the Sodium %…..
http://holisticselect.com.au/senior-dry-dog-food-chicken-meal-and-rice
Canidae Pure Formulas are also very good so email Canidae & ask for the Sodium % in a few Pure Formulas….
http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products

[anonymously]

Orijen Adult Dry Dog Food

This protein packed dog food is formulated to best match the natural needs of your dog.

“The recipe contains well balanced meats, vegetables, and fruits—even deemed fit for human consumption. It is also grain free with limited, specially selected carbohydrates. The Omega 3 fatty acids support a sleek coat and healthy skin. The botanicals were selected by veterinarians to help support the organs, cleanse the body of toxins, and maintain a healthy metabolism. It is also a low sodium dog food with a sodium content listed at 0.3%.”

“The top listed ingredients include boneless chicken, chicken meal, chicken liver, whole herring, and boneless turkey. Some of the other fruits and vegetables include red lentils, green peas, green lentils, cranberries, and blueberries. Customers who purchase Orijen say it may be a bit expensive, but it does not make any compromises when it comes to the health of pets. Many say it is likely the best low sodium dog food out there and reflects the natural, ancestral diet of their pets”.

Above is an excerpt from: https://www.munch.zone/best-low-sodium-dog-food/

Check with your vet, he may suggest a prescription diet.

[becky p]

Zach, my 3 1/2 year, 130 pound Lab Mix has high blood pressure. He is very active and not overweight :-). I have been giving him medication to lower his blood pressure for 2 years now. His latest urinalysis had a slightly abnormal specific gravity reading. In 6 months, the vet will retest Zach’s urine. I asked him if there was anything I could do now that would help and he suggested a low sodium diet. He said that most senior dog foods are low sodium.

Does anyone know how I can tell which dog foods are low in sodium?

[Kim M]

If you don’t boil the heck out of it it, Chicken does contain a fair amount of moisture. I would personally stray from broth unless it’s purely homemade and very low on sodium (as it won’t help with dehydration).

[Cannoli]

Home cooked meals require calcium just like raw meals.

Besides bones and eggshells you can get calcium from seaweed. I prefer the calcium from seaweed because in addition to calcium seaweed also gives you the following minerals:

Magnesium
Sulfur
Potassium
Phosphorus
Sodium
Zinc
Iodine
Selenium

• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Cannoli.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Cannoli.

[Shawna]

laconrad,

Although I do feel small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables are quite healthy for dogs, carbohydrates aren’t a necessary requirement – even in the modern dog. Yes, when properly processed, they can utilize them but they still aren’t a necessary macronutrient. Waltham is a reliable source of information on this – they state “Cats and dogs can sythesise their own blood glucose from amino acids. Carbohydrate, therefore is not an essential macronutrient. However, if provided in their diet, cats and dogs can utilise carbohydrates and they are used in pet foods as sources of energy and dietary fibre.
Carbohydrate levels tend to be higher in dry pet food than in wet pet food.” https://www.waltham.com/dyn/_assets/_pdfs/waltham-booklets/Essentialcatanddognutritionbookletelectronicversion.pdf

In fact, carbohydrates aren’t even required in complete and balanced foods. There is a minimum protein requirement, a minimum fat requirement but no minimum on carbs. AAFCO guidelines as of 2008 http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=662

They now know that the MINIMUM protein requirement for senior dogs is actually 25%. ” Protein requirements actually increase by about 50% in older dogs, while their energy requirements tend to decrease. When insufficient protein is provided, it can aggravate the age-associated loss of lean body mass and may contribute to earlier mortality. Older dogs should receive at least 25% of their calories from protein, typically provided by diets containing at least 7 g protein/100 Kcal ME.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18656844

It’s also a myth that higher protein amounts have a negative impact on a dog’s kidneys. In fact, dogs WITH kidney disease can safely eat a higher protein diet as long as phosphorus is watched. Here’s my favorite source of info on this “Mythology of Protein Restriction for Dogs with Reduced Renal Function” http://www.championpetfoods.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Myths_of_High_Protein.pdf

The bioavailability of the protein is every bit as important as the overall amount. The more bioavailable the protein the less blood urea nitrogen is created. So the better the quality of the protein the more that can be fed. An ounce of protein from beef, as an example, will be better utilized, leaving less waste, than an ounce of soy protein. Additionally raw protein will be better utilized then it’s cooked counterpart due to amino acid loss lowering bioavailability.

I have never read any literature suggesting protein as a cause of cirrhosis however I would agree that lowering protein would be advised if the liver is already severely damaged. NOT because the protein is further “damaging” the liver however the ammonia not being converted is quite toxic. Even in this article relating to humans they don’t suggest excess dietary protein as a cause https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000302.htm

Excess fiber in the diet has been shown to act as an anti-nutrient. I just this week read a research paper on this but I bookmarked it at work and don’t have access right now.

You’ve mentioned the liver and kidneys several times so I thought I’d add a little more research on the kidneys. “Long-term renal responses to high dietary protein in dogs with 75% nephrectomy. These results do not support the hypothesis that high protein feeding had a significant adverse effect on either renal function of morphology in dogs with 75% nephrectomy.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3702209

Purina Veterinary Diets
“A University of Minnesota study revealed renal aging does not occur in geriatric dogs, at least to the extent that it has been reported in people. When fed a diet of 39% protein and 15% fat (dry matter basis), geriatric dogs maintained relatively stable glomerular filtration rates and had no greater incidence of glomerulosclerosis than those dogs in the protein-restricted (19% dry matter basis) diet group. These and other studies indicate no need for restricted dietary protein, fat, sodium or phosphorus to help minimize renal disease progression in healthy geriatric dogs. Still other studies have shown high dietary protein alone will not cause the development of kidney disease. In addition, research has shown that older dogs may actually require more protein than younger adult dogs, just to maintain normal protein turnover, and to support lean body mass and normal immunocompetence.

Obesity has been associated with arthritis, cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus, neoplasia and decreased survival. Therefore, efforts to maintain ideal body weight and body condition are far more important and appropriate than protein or phosphorus reduction for maintaining health in geriatric dogs.” https://www.purinaveterinarydiets.com/research/senior-dogs-do-old-kidneys-need-new-diets/

Interestingly, at least two papers published in the Journal of Nutrition have shown higher protein diets to be beneficial for weight loss in dogs.

“High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/134/8/2087S.full

“Weight Loss in Obese Dogs: Evaluation of a High-Protein, Low-Carbohydrate Diet” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/6/1685S.full

[theBCnut]

Do a search here for “low sodium” Another poster, some time ago, did the work for you on finding low sodium foods. If you aren’t opposed to feeding raw, you might want to add a bit of heart to your dog’s diet. Heart muscle is a good source of taurine, which they have found Cavs need.

[anonymously]

I read that these two may have less sodium than other brands also:
ProPlan Select (Sensitive Skin and Stomach) and
Wellness CORE Original Formula

Low Sodium Dog Food

[anonymously]

Unless your dog has a medical condition and a veterinarian has recommended a low-sodium diet….. Healthy dogs usually do not need a special dog food that is low in sodium. Most brands have a minimum amount of sodium, .3%, for maintenance of body functions that require it.

That being said, I read that Orijen has less sodium than other brands. However, the price might be a deterrent. With the better brands you will find you need to feed less kibble, it is dense and less like sawdust as with the cheap brands.

My dogs do well on Nutrisca dry as a base, with a topper such as a spoonful of scrambled egg (made with water) cooked chopped lean meat or chicken, tuna, a spoonful of homemade chicken broth (nothing added) just boil a chicken for 3+ hours, debone, defat, freeze 2-3 day servings, it makes about a quart.
Check chewy.com for prices. If you get a large bag you can freeze 1/2 of it and store the rest in an airtight container, in the fridg if you have room, or at least in a cool dry room.

I add a splash of water to the food, my senior gets his kibble presoaked with water.

Dogs that are prone to weight gain do well with a one hour walk per day, even at a leisurely pace.
Offer meals twice a day, if he doesn’t eat pick it up store in the fridg and offer at the next meal time. He will eat when he is hungry, if he doesn’t eat times 3 days consult a veterinarian. Make sure he is drinking adequate water. Oh, and he is old enough for adult food.
Also, if his bowel habits don’t stabilize soon, I would take him to the vet.

[tarcy m]

Hi.. I am a new owner to a rescue pup as of 3 weeks ago. He has severe allergies and is being treated with TemerilP to stop the licking, and scratching. I am not ruling out the food he’s on at the moment as the culprit. At the vets office yesterday he gave me the green light to make his food at home. This is where my confusion begins (sigh): 5 part diet, 1 part only proteins not to exceed 20%, low sodium, low protein. He also told me to buy a petcap multivitamin and add to his food. Warner (2-4 years) has not been diagnosed with anything yet but were in the process of possible heart/lung conditions he believes due to allergies/bronchial, but not certain as the diagnostics are expensive..

I was excited to begin this culinary experience until I googled home made dog food. Do this, don’t do that, egg shells, bones..?? How do I know his nutritional needs and which recipe to achieve this? I am almost ready to throw in the towel, but haven’t given up yet.

What I am asking is anyone who is familiar with the above issues to direct me or give me a break down in figuring out his dietary needs along with what to cook for his max benefits. I’d much rather feed him foods that are of nature and not the preserved bag stuff on the shelf. I appreciate all that took the time to read this post and I hope to hear back soon. Thank you ~ Warner’s Mom

[crazy4cats]

Hi Sue C-
Glad to hear your pup is doing better. Did you trying typing “low sodium” in the search bar in the upper left under your sign in? There are a lot of posts on the forum on this subject.

As far as the crystals in the urine go, making sure your dog gets as much moisture/water in the diet as possible is really important. I always add a little water and some canned food to my dogs’ meals. For my cat who also has had issues with crystals, I mostly feed canned food to him and still add water to it.

Plenty of bathroom breaks are also important to keep the urine from getting stagnant.

[Sue C]

I saw a few older posts on this, but just signed on as a member. Our cavalier had congestive heart failure a few weeks ago. He is 9, is on 4 meds/day and is doing very well. A salesperson at Petsmart gave me a printout of the Tufts Vet School dog foods. Hills has almost half the sodium as Royal Canin, what we’ve been using. I did switch, but also worry about too high protein content. As a puppy, we fed Spencer Blue and had to take him off it because he developed crystals in his urine. Any experience or advice on this one? Don’t want to create any more issues. Also have a 1 1/2 yr. old Cav puppy and thought to switch her also to low-sodium kibble. Thanks!

[Shawna]

Hi Pittiemama,

Hopefully I can help you here. My puppy had kidney disease right from birth. It is believed her kidneys just weren’t able to develop (she was the sixth puppy, the runt, for a 12 pound Chihuahua / Boston Terrier mix). The breeder had to had feed her, due to a collapsing trachea, raw goats milk and egg whites to keep her alive. She had symptoms (excessive drinking and urine) at just six weeks of age. She was officially diagnosed at one year and given a year to live. She lived to eight years and seven months old and then passed for reasons not directly related to kd.

A little background on me, my father is a naturopath. I did consult with him when I got Audrey’s diagnosis but being raised by him, I was able to mostly formulate the plan of attack myself.

Audrey’s numbers, when she was diagnosed, were right around the same as your babies — and she lived almost seven more very very healthy and happy years. It could happen for your baby too.

The first thing I would suggest is to keep up on his dental health. You won’t want to use anesthesia for dental cleanings so RIGHT now start doing anything and everything you need to keep his teeth clean. It was actually bacteria likely from a dental infection that got into Audrey’s kidneys and ultimately took her life. Use fresh garlic in his meals. Use an enzyme supplement in his water, Dr. Melissa Shelton’s essential oil called Dog Breath is very effective and a drop can be added to his water dish or you can mix with water in a spray bottle and spray right on teeth. http://www.animaleo.info/dog-breath.html I would also recommend a product made by Green Pasture’s called Infused Coconut Oil. It’s high in vitamin K2 (which has been shown to have great benefit for teeth) and has other wonderful nutrients. All of my dogs get it but I found it when Audrey’s teeth were already needing some extra support. 🙁 http://www.greenpasture.org/public/Products/InfusedCoconutOil/index.cfm

I HIGHLY recommend Standard Process Canine Renal Support. It is a food based supplement that “feeds” the kidneys but also has a product called a protomorphogen (which is the RNA/DNA of the kidney cell) that helps prevent inflammation to the kidneys. It is the one supplement she never went without. I also used their SP Canine Hepatic Support when I thought she needed a little liver support — helps with allergies too. I also used their Cataplex B and C as water soluble vitamins may need to be added due to the large amounts being urinated out.

ONLY give filtered or other forms of “clean” water. I would avoid tap water at all cost. Lower sodium mineral waters with good amounts of calcium and magnesium have been shown to be beneficial for dogs with kd. I like Evian water because it is high in calcium bicarbonate. I didn’t give it all the time but made sure (at least in the beginning) to give it regularly — I got lax in the later years and I truly believe Audrey would still be with me if I had not. She was doing so well though and my life got busier..

I HIGHLY recommend getting some Garden of Life Primal Defense probiotic and Garden of Life Acacia Fiber supplements as well. These are used as “nitrogen traps” and as BUN begins to build up the bacteria consuming the fiber will cause some of the nitrogen to be routed through the bowels freeing up the kidneys from having to deal with them. I gave probiotic foods (like green tripe, fermented veggies etc) frequently but when I noticed she was feeling a little lethargic, depressed, not feeling well etc I assumed nitrogen was building up and I’d give her the probiotics and prebiotic for several days. Always worked like a charm. Will be quite important as the disease progresses and he starts getting symptoms. This also allows for a higher protein diet. The protein doesn’t damage the kidneys but it does, due to BUN, add to symptoms. Oh, I forgot to mention. Audrey ate a HIGH protein raw diet up until the last six to eight weeks of her life. Audrey never had a problem with phosphorus but as your puppies disease progresses you may have to watch the amount of phosphorus in the foods you are feeding. The golden rule is to limit phosphorus but it’s obviously not always necessary. That said, phosphorus can damage the kidneys if it gets too high in the blood so either monitor it or feed the right amounts of phos for the stage your pup is at. Right now while phosphorus isn’t as big an issue, I like the Honest Kitchen Brave. To that I would add a raw egg a few times per week and give Answer’s raw goat milk regularly as well. Both raw eggs (if not whipped etc) and raw milk can easily increase the “master antioxidant” in the body called glutathione. This will obviously help out everything. Later, when phos needs to be more restricted, you may not be able to give the whole egg (as the yolk is higher in phos).

Supplements —
1. Organic Turmeric is good as it is anti-inflammatory but it also is anti-fibrotic (prevents scar tissue). Audrey didn’t tolerate turmeric well so she didn’t get it but in general it would be quite helpful for a dog with KD.
2. Spirulina, chlorella and pumpkin seed oil are all high in chlorophyll and supplies lots of other nutrients. Dogs with KD can be at risk for anemia and chlorophyll is awesome for anemia.
3. Burdock root is a prebiotic and of the herb world is considered to be the “blood cleaner”.
4. Milk thistle helps spare glutathione and is a good detoxer.
5. Distilled water (given once in a while) and food grade activated charcoal are good detoxers too.
6. Copaiba essential oil is great for pains and inflammation plus more. A therapeutic grade, like Dr. Sheltons, is the only kind to use on pets. Can be given in food or rubbed into the skin over the kidneys as an example.
7. Braggs brand apple cider vinegar can help with indigestion or tummy issues. Audrey didn’t need it often but when she did I would mix it 50/50 with water and syringe feed it. She hated it but within seconds would burp and feel better.
8. Therapeutic grade peppermint oil, ginger extract or Dr. Shelton’s GI Joe essential oil work great for tummy issues as well. I got sick to my tummy and used the GI Joe to help. Kept me from vomiting and soothed my tummy.
9. Learn about essential oils if you don’t already know. If you have a Facebook account, join AnimalEO’s page and sign up for Dr. Shelton’s Friday Fun Facts. I didn’t know about them early enough to be much use with Audrey (specifically Dr. Shelton’s oils) but I sure wish I had.

DON’T do ANY more vaccinations – not even rabies if you can at all avoid. Audrey was legally exempted from having to get the rabies vaccine for life. She wasn’t protected either as she only got her first shot (at six months) before diagnosis was made. No heartworm, flea/tick or anything like that either.

I know there’s things I’m forgetting but hopefully this is enough to give you a good jumping off point.. 🙂 Hugs to you and your baby boy!!!!

• This reply was modified 10 years, 2 months ago by Shawna.

[anonymously]

And always:
“It’s important to provide your dog with extra fluids and frequent opportunities to urinate in order to keep his urine from becoming supersaturated. Salt should not be added to increase fluid consumption for dogs with cystinuria; according to studies conducted on humans, a low-sodium diet may decrease the amount of cystine in the urine”.

Excerpt from http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjotherstones.html#cystine

[Shawna]

Hi Keira,

So sorry to hear about your baby!!

Diagnosed as stage 4 but has no symptoms other than urinating inappropriately? That’s odd. It would be really helpful to know the results of the original blood panel (before starting the prescription diet) when discussing foods and supplements. As the BUN and creatinine get more elevated you need to start limiting phosphorus (as it can build up in the system and damage the kidneys) and protein (as it contributes to symptoms – but NOT to damaging the kidneys)). Example – in the later stages of the disease egg yolks should be increasingly limited because of the higher phosphorus content in them. Ask you vet for a copy of your pup’s blood work if you don’t already have it and then let us know the values.

Nitrogen trapping is helpful at any stage of renal failure but becomes the most noticeably beneficial when you start seeing symptoms – vomiting, inappetance, possibly lethargy or depression etc. In order to create a nitrogen trap you absolutely need a probiotic (however I’m not sure which bacteria is involved in nitrogen trapping so I recommend using one with a WIDE variety of beneficial microbes – one like Garden of Life Primal Defense (human product)). When my Audrey was diagnosed with KD at age one (she was also given a year to live but lived to just shy of age nine) I tried multiple different fiber sources (which are also considered prebiotics – feed the microbes in the gut). Some of the prebiotics (such as apple and grapefruit pectin or the fiber in the grain barley) had a negative impact – the pectins made her symptoms worse and she had a food sensitivity to the barley. I ended up using acacia fiber for her from age one and half(ish) to when she passed. Garden of Life has an acacia fiber product as well but NOW brand makes one and there are a few others.

“Standard Process Renal Support” is the one supplement that my girl NEVER did without. It helps in many many many ways including giving the kidneys the nourishment they need to preventing inflammation from damaging the kidneys further. The Standard Process brand have specific products (called protomorphogens) that help with inflammation. There are other things I used for Audrey or would recommend – such as turmeric bombs / balls, Evian bottle water (lower in sodium then some others and a type of calcium very easily used by the body), activated charcoal, spirulina, chlorella and so on.

Your current diet doesn’t have a source of calcium listed which is VERY important.. If you can give us her actual info from the blood panel we can more easily recommend the right diet for you.