[Susan]

Hi Caryn, you have to realise vets aren’t nutritionist & some vets know stuff all about nutrition for dogs & cats….. a good vet would be telling you to feed a balanced raw or cooked diet to your dog & cat, not a kibble….
You should always rotate between a few different brand kibbles & different proteins when feeding a kibble, never just feed the one brand & same protein their whole lives like some people do….also add fresh whole foods to the kibble…. They have found by adding 1 tablespoon of cooked veggies/fruit or a protein to the dogs kibble just 3 times a week can reduce the chances of them getting cancer.. …follow “Rodney Habib” the Pet nutrition blogger on Face Book he’s excellent & it’s so easy to make your dog healthier, happier & live longer…since dogs have been eating just kibble they aren’t living as long as when they were fed table scraps & cooked meals..

When picking a good kibble, look at the ingredients, a good kibble should have at least 3-5 proteins as the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th ingredient, then should have a carb like sweet potatoes as the next ingredient….. also when the ingredients are written, the ingredients are raw, not cooked yet except if it says meal eg, chicken meal, lamb meal, duck meal etc also the ingredient list is written on weight, so when ingredients are cooked the ingredients shrink, especially proteins/meats, a good kibble should read Lamb, then Lamb Meal, chicken meal, or turkey, turkey meal, chicken meal etc when it says meal there’s more meat cause the meal is cooked meats dried & made into powder form (meal) but when it just say chicken or lamb or duck, it’s raw & hasn’t been cooked yet it needs the meal to follow, duck then duck meal or chicken then chicken meal etc… also if it say’s fish or ocean fish you want to know what type of fish it is?? it should say salmon, salmon meal or Whitefish, Sardines or Anchovy …..
Have a look at “Canidae” Pure formulas grain free & their Life Stages formulas, their Life Stages, All Life Stages formula is a good kibble, it has 4 high quality meat meals, chicken, turkey, lamb & fish & is a pretty good price when you buy a 20kg bag, then look for another premium kibble & I rotate in the same day some times, I give Patch his “Taste Of The Wild” Sierra Mountain for breakfast then he has Canidae Life Stages formula for dinner when I forget to take out his cooked meal out of freezer…. Some people rotate when the bag of kibble is down too 1/4 of the bag left then start adding & mixing in the next new kibble your going to feed, after you have rotated a few different kibbles you don’t really need to slowly introduce anymore……You will see a difference when your dog is feed a better quality kibble that agrees with him, they have more energy, their coat shines, their poos are firm & smaller…. then pick about 3 different kibbles with different proteins & fed them but still keep your eye out for another kibble to try that’s on special or new..
Go onto the “Review” section & start looking at 3-5 star kibbles, I prefer a kibble with less ingredients, limited ingredient kibbles & I add fresh cooked food to the kibble, tin sardines in oil/spring water are excellent, I add tin Salmon in spring water, you ban add the salmon bones, you give about 3 small sardines or 1/4 of the small tin, also veggies broccoli, berries, apple, I fed pieces of peeled seeded apple, watermelon, rock melon as treats also yogurt Patch gets 1 heap spoon yogurt at 11 am every day now….3-4 years ago if I gave Patch anything different in his diet he’d have diarrhea, gas/farts, bad wind pain, rumbling, grumbling bowel noises, he’s a rescue that was feed a very poor diet & now has IBD & Skin & Food sensitivities…. Good Luck
*Canidae- http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products
*Sport Dog Elite Series- http://www.sportdogfood.com/dog-food/active-sporting/performance/
*Taste Of The Wild- http://www.tasteofthewild.com.au
*California Natural- http://www.californianaturalpet.com/products

[aimee]

Hi Joseph,

I’m glad to hear that you are willing to continue to learn. When you posted that you thought the authors of the link I referred you to were spewing garbage it didn’t seem to me that you were willing to consider what they had said could be true.

I don’t disagree that by researching a focused topic you can become well educated on that subject. The key is to make sure that the sources you are using are credible. It is easy to get lead astray. I use Pub med and google scholar when I first start researching a new topic.

I’d encourage you to spend some of your hours researching Malassezia reading clinical microbiology journals. Through reading those I learned that this isn’t a sugar loving yeast, as is say Candida, it is a fat loving yeast (lipophilic). For the most part it is a fat dependent yeast, meaning that it requires fat to grow. Most strains of Malassezia pachydermatis, the yeast type most often found on dogs, are not lipid dependent but some are and other lipid dependent Malassezia species have been found on dogs. The organism thrives on fats not carbs.

Houndmusic: Besides the fact that Malassezia is a fat loving yeast. The other big hole in the “carbohydrates feed yeast” mantra is that the skin is a long way away from the gut. A high carb diet will directly provide substrate for intestinal yeast to munch on if one suffers from intestinal yeast overgrowth, but on the skin???… I don’t think so.

To get carb from the gut to the skin it has to travel and the means of transport is blood. Glucose levels in the blood are tightly regulated, unless you are a diabetic. Remove all carbs from the diet and your blood glucose isn’t going to be that different from that found when eating a carb inclusive diet. In other words, a similar amount of glucose is transported to the skin on a daily basis regardless of diet.

The final problem for me is how would glucose even get to the outermost surface of the skin on a dog which is where the yeast resides? N/P in people as glucose is a component of sweat… but dogs don’t sweat, except for paw pads and nose and sebum doesn’t have any appreciable glucose in it. Hmmm Housten we have a problem…

See how this whole idea that dietary carbs feed yeast falls apart? The organism prefers and thrives with fats not carbs and I can’t come up with a mechanism that puts carbs on the outermost surface of the skin of a dog much less one in which a high carb diet would deposit higher levels of carb on the skin than a low carb diet.

But I’m open to hearing the other side. Explain to me how eating a high carb diet results in a high level of carbs on the surface of the skin leading to an overgrowth of yeast. I don’t see it. What I do see is a lipid loving organism feeding on the sebum of skin altered from a primary cause.

[HoundMusic]

The amount of carbs, grains, sugars, etc in the diet have nothing to do with yeast growth on skin. If your dog has a food hypersensitivity reaction (allergy) to an ingredient in the diet the adverse reaction can alter the skin and allow yeast to grow.

That is absolutely untrue. Yeast feeds off simple sugars and certain types of complex carbohydrates, and an overgrowth will often take the form of a skin rash.

[pitlove]

Hi Joseph-

You may disagree with Aimee and with the article she linked, but the information she presented to you is 100% correct. We now know that Malassezia Yeast is indeed NOT fed by carbs as once believed. The only role diet plays in the control of yeast is when a food allergy is involved.

When a food allergy is present, the immune system is weakened and allows the once controlled population of yeast naturally found on the skin, to overpopulate and thus causes a yeast infection. The key to controlling yeast is to remove the allergen trigger from the diet and therefore strengthen the immune system allowing it to do its job; controlling the yeast.

I was once like you and firmly believed that the only way I could control my dogs cronic yeast infections was by limiting or removing carbs from the diet. Once I started reviewing clinical research and discussing the subject with my vet, I realized how wrong I was and why nothing I tried was working. My dog eats a grain inclusive dry kibble with about 40% carbs and is yeast free, with the exception of the summer months when his environmental allergies flare up.

Edit: Also if you believe your dog has a food allergy you will want to do an elimination trial, also called a food trial to diagnois and confirm it. Discuss how this is done with your vet.

[Joseph w]

I finished reading that, I can’t believe how much garbage she’s spewing. I would much rather listen to the hundreds of dog owners who have had amazing results from coconut oil ACV, probiotics, and a low sugar/carb/starch diet than one vet who says it can’t be proven by science. The proof is in the results.

[aimee]

Hi Joseph,

The amount of carbs, grains, sugars, etc in the diet have nothing to do with yeast growth on skin. If your dog has a food hypersensitivity reaction (allergy) to an ingredient in the diet the adverse reaction can alter the skin and allow yeast to grow.

You can find good information about yeast on skin here http://www.healthyskin4dogs.com/blog/2015/9/8/facts-myths-about-yeast-dermatitis-in-dogs

[Joseph w]

I have a 4 year old bull terrier names Bodger. He is normally 65lbs but the last year he shot up to 72lbs. We lowered his food intake to 1 cup a day but he wasn’t losing any weight so we took him in for a blood test thinking he had a thyroid issue but it turned out negative and we suspect he has iiatrogenic Cushing’s from off and in use of prednisone for use with his skin issues. Now that we can no longer use prednisone we are trying to figure out a good diet for him. We use to use homemade raw which possibly worked better than what we have him on now but if it did it was slight. Before raw his normal food was Arcana or Orijen. It is now Avaderm which is the best he’s had since raw but we are no longer able to afford raw. One if his main skin problems is yeast infections on his feet constantly, ears somewhat often and around his anus sometimes and very rarely around mouth and eyes. I need a non yeast/starch/sugar/grain/ low carb kibble, with probiotics Which I plan in supplementing with a whole slew of home remedies and iver the counter products I’ve been researching. I was looking at wellness Tru food and it meets almost all the criteria except has about 40% carbs. Any ideas?

[Juanita B]

I am feeding my dog canned Nature’s Logic only. Is it necessary to use the food fortifier for canned food when not using kibble. I am trying a high protein low carb diet because of yeast infections from other brands.

[Juanita B]

I am feeding my dog canned Nature’s Logic only. Is it necessary to use the food fortifier for canned food when not using kibble. I am trying a high protein low carb diet because of yeast infections from other brands.

[Kathleen C]

I wrote in on June 30 about having trouble getting my dog to lose weight. Not a Large Breed Puppy, but still wanted some info on Wellness Core Reduced Fat and Annamaet Lean and Light. I was able to control my dogs weight with the Wellness but not with the Annamaet or the Weruva, which he was on for awhile. Annamaet has less protein and probably more carbs than Wellness and I would like to find out if Wellness is back to its better pre-Diamond reviews or if there have been any recalls lately. Also, does the higher protein less carbs of Wellness make that much difference? Remember that Wellness actually did give out their carb amounts when questioned about it and they were much lower than the Advisors guesses.

[Logan W]

For those new or novice to homemade dog food, it does take some research and a little bit of trial and error to see what your dog will eat. I’ve been doing homemade 100% for about 7 or 8 years now and I would highly recommend it. It does require some initial time and research but it’s all well worth it. I first started with several dogs and wasn’t convinced, like many here, that anything available on the market was as nutritionally dense as homemade. I started when I first adopted several dogs and they loved eating anything I bought, but the food certainly never agreed with them and they were sick all around my house. I think the last food, both dry and soft, they ever ate from the pet store was Blue Buffalo way back when. I would give them rice and chicken till they got better then slowly start working commercial food back into their diet. Every time… they got sick. That’s when I started out on the quest for something that I could rest assured was wholesome and nutritional… from my own hands.

People are right here when they warn you of feeding your dog homemade food without understanding your dogs nutritional needs. We all know our dogs will eat just about anything and you’d hate to learn the hard way that you are malnourishing your dog. I started by searching the web for a canine version of a daily nutritional requirements list that includes not only the macro nutrients (proteins, fiber, fat, carbohydrates, etc.) but also details all the micro nutrients (different amino acids, minerals, vitamins, etc.). The lists are out there if you search. It will be a long, long list of about 30-40 nutrients.

Once I found this list, I did some calculations based on my dogs activity level and size, multiples really. Then I created an Excel spreadsheet of all the target daily nutritional requirements. From there I started searching the web for natural sources of each nutrient and cross referencing them again sites to make sure they weren’t toxic to dogs. You’d be surprised to find that much of the normal fresh meats and vegetables at the store have just what your dog needs. I created a list of ideal food ingredients and Googled each ingredient’s full nutritional profile and built a tab for each ingredient in Excel listing out its nutrients per 1 gram or other serving size. Then I would build other worksheets modeling possible combinations of natural ingredients and seeing how the resulting nutrional profile compares to the target. You’ll find, just like with any animal, that you’ll never get it perfect. You may figure out that adding sweet potatoes helps you fill one nutrient you were targeting only to provide an exceeding amount of another. This is inevitable but just make sure that you aren’t creating a recipe that has far too little of one nutrient that is very important, or even far too much of another that can cause problems if ingested in large quantities like Vitamin A, etc. Its really a process or trial and error modeling a recipe that is really close. I got a few recipes and then went for it. But I do give my dog a multivitamin once a day too just to be a little safer.

The recipes I’ve been using for some time is muscle meat and some organ meat like ground beef and beef livers or kidneys, or chicken breasts and chicken livers. Organ meat is very nutritionally dense and its what dogs go for first when they find a animal in the wild. Muscle meat is a thing we humans prioritize for some reason so remember that you dog IS NOT BEST SERVED WITH FILET MIGNONS OR CHICKEN TENDERS. For veggies, I use about 3-5 different vegetables and switch them up every once in a while. My favorites are sweet potatoes, carrots, spinach, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower, squash and zucchini. For fiber and carbohydrates, I pick between a rice (white or brown) or beans (dry pinto or black beans). There’s other things I do too, like I use quite a few eggs and I boil the eggshells to sterilize them. Then I grind the dried shells into a powder for their high calcium needs. I also add some ground flax seed and olive oil to every batch. That’s really it about ingredients… now the PREPARATION METHOD becomes vitally important.

If your dog is like any of mine, they probably don’t care to eat vegetables raw or their own flavor. Also, how you cook the vegetables and beans/grains can either retain most of the nutrients or deplete most of them. Dogs have very short digestive tracts compared to humans and that means that just because they can eat a raw carrot…. it doesn’t mean there digestive tract can break it all down fast enough before it passes. Pressure cookers are great for dog food vegetables. Pressure cookers apply high heat for a very short period of time that not only softens the vegetables so they are more digestible, but it helps retain the nutrients in the vegetables much better than, let’s say, boiling them. One could simply use a steamer, but the trick I use is adding some chicken broth to the pressure cooker so that it injects a tasty flavor in all the vegetables. I chop all my vegetables and pile them into the pressure cooker and add a couple cups of real chicken broth and set it for 10 minutes, done. I pull out the finished veggies and set aside. Then I do the same flavor-injection with the beans or rice by using the pressure cooker too. I take out the beans or rice when finished and mix it into the cooked vegetables I set aside.

Next I chop up a cook the meats/organs either in a large pan or also in the pressure cooker (depends on the meat). I add a generous amount of olive oil and pour in the eggs and ground eggshells + ground flax seed. When this is all done I mix it all together with the already completed parts I set aside. A little salt and its done. I divide the food up into glass, airtight containers that hold enough for no more than 5 days of food. I keep one in the fridge and the others in the freezer. After the first container is nearing empty, I start thawing the second container. I give me 20-30 lbs guys about 1 cup of the food nuked for about a minute, morning and night.

How’s it working? Wonderful coats, plenty of energy, no skin problems EVER, all vet checkups clear and I’ve had their blood tested drawn at different times of their metabolic cycles to test for nutrients in their bloodstream (a whole lot of expensive testing just to reassure me that what I was doing was good) and not a single thing ever wrong with them. Since their food is not very hard or dry, you do need to brush their teeth or make sure they get plenty of dental chews. Their stool should be nice and loose, but not huge and frequent. Once or twice a day is normal. Their digestives tracts are using more of the food mass than was being used when feeding commercial food filled with corn and other grains. So their stool gets smaller. You can go online and find paid recipes backed by vets, but I’ve yet to see one that is truly all homemade. They typically create recipes that require using some overly priced supplement powder they distribute or co-advertise for. Don’t waste your time on them.

You may find that your dog devours the food right away or plays the hold-put game for something better. Mine play both games depending on their mood. They usually don’t eat the food right away cause it’s just been reheated and they know not to try. So they usually meander around for a while before eating it later. But when they finally eat… they eat it all… every last piece of vegetable, bean and rice, etc.

So there’s my experience and I hope it inspires you to give it a go and stick with it. I have an electric pressure cooker only for the dog food… best investment ever. It costs me about 50 cents to feed 1 lbs dog for a week. So that’s $10 a week for one 20 lbs dog. I consider that a much better ROI than commercial dog food. Since I only have one freezer, I only make food every 2 weeks and spend about 2 hours when I do. But you get used to it and you learn the process inside and out. I’d never go back. Now if only I would eat as good as these damned dogs do!! 😉

[Susan]

Hi, sounds like food sensitivity, she is sensitive to an ingredient in the kibble, have you read the ingredients in the super market food she’s eating, what are they?
My rescue Patch was doing the same, I couldn’t feed supermarket food, he was sensitive to the corn gluten meal, barley, chicken & I think the fiber was too high… After trying a heap of premium brand kibbles & vet diets, finally I feed Patch “Taste Of The Wild” Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb & he’s doing beautiful firm poos finally….. I seen on a Face Book group dogs with EPI & IBD were eating “Taste Of The Wild” & “Kirkland Signature Nature Domain” Salmon Meal & Sweet Potato kibble & doing really well so I tried the TOTW Pacific Stream Smoked Salmon first then the Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb, Patch likes the Roasted Lamb more…if you have a Costco close by buy a bag of their Kirkland Signature Nature Domain grain free kibbles are made by Taste Of The Wild & is cheaper then the TOTW kibbles…
What I noticed with the Taste Of The Wild & Kirkland Signature some of the formulas the fiber was only 3% so maybe the fiber plays a big part in making Patches poos firm he needs less fiber not more..
Look at ingredients in the kibble she’s eating & get a grain free kibble with a different protein & carbs….What happened with the Pure Balance she was eating in the beginning?? always pick a limited ingredient kibble, less ingredients are best when they are sensitive too certain ingredients…. You will slowly start to work out what she’s sensitive too as time goes by when you try a few different kibbles or if you do an elimination diet….
It’s best to rotate kibbles with different single protein, once you find a few kibbles she does well on, make sure there’s only have 1 protein in the kibble….
another really good kibble for dogs with sensitive stomachs & IBD do well on is “California Natural” Lamb & Rice it has just 3 ingredients..
http://www.californianaturalpet.com/products
http://www.kirklandsignaturepetsupplies.com/natures-domain-brand

[Maniza D]

Sorry .. I did not read that your dog maybe allergic to fish. My research revealed that dogs with digestive issues are best treated with having a higher protein than fats and carbs. Dogs do not have the intestines needed for digesting complex carbs … hence diarreahh, stinky stools, big stools etc. There is a PHD pet nutritionist in Canada who has a cookbook for dogs as wells totally balanced vitamin supplement. Her name is Hilary Watson and her website is http://www.hilarywatson.com/. I spoke with her today. She was very helpful. She is the one who suggested to me that my Toby may not have an allergies to food but food intolerances. Her recommendation was to feed him food with lower fat content than I had been. The recipe I created above certainly provides less fat than what he was accustomed to with Acana. I also think the addition of slippery elm, the small amount of garlic, ginger and some greens has helped tremendously. Dr. Watson suggested that once his digestive system has settled down, I might want to reintroduce him to other low fat proteins such as turkey, venison, bison and goat. But please note that almost every kibble has higher fat percentage than protein. The fat is added back in to make the food palatable to dogs. Natural Balance is a good food per my breeder .. but it’s nutrient values are (for fish and sweet potatoe .. limited ingredients) Protein 22%, Fat 20% and the remainder is carbs.

[Maniza D]

HOMEMADE DOG FOOD FOR DIGESTIVE AND SKIN ISSUES
My 13 month old Tibetan Terrier has been sick on and off since I got him at 14 weeks old. After spending thousands of dollars, I decided to cook for him. After doing a lot of research, I discovered that the Acana Pacifica he was on was too rich for him. Acana, like most dog foods does not have a balanced protein to fat ratio (1:1). It is a very fatty kibble. Also it has quite a few sources of carbs lentils ( which are also a source of protein) etc. Lentils are hard to digest, even for humans .. see Indian cooking where Hing is added to aid digestion of these pulses. The Acana ingredients may work well for other dogs but not mine. I decided to switch to homemade meals and the recipe below cured him of stomach ailments overnight!

I was able to create this recipe using BalanceIt website. Couple of important things to note : I added in one capsule of Slippery Elm, great supplement for digestive issues, rosemary, one teaspoon of fresh garlic-ginger paste, parsley, a half teaspoon of bonemeal, and substituted out a portion of the corn oil (causes inflammation) for 1/2 tsp of high quality fish oil. I also adjusted the ingredient quantity to cook for 14 meals ( 2 per day). I cooked the base consisting of the cod, salmon, sweet potatoes and pumpkin and froze the portions. The fresh veggies in the recipe are par-boiled and pureed in the water they were boiled in, and added on a daily basis, along with the above ingredients and a VITAMIN SUPPLEMENT. Very important to add the vitamins and bonemeal (for calcium) to create a nutritionally balanced meal. I add in the bonemeal because the calcium to phosphorus ratio is off in the BalanceIt Vitamin powder.

The following homemade recipe was specially created for a 28 lb healthy adult dog who requires 659 Calories per day. The following recipe provides 692 Calories, enough for 1 day.

TOBY’S HOMEMADE PET FOOD RECIPE
Ingredients Grams Amount
(1) Sweetpotato, baked in skin, without salt (BalanceIT.com; flesh fed only) 200.0 g 1 cup
(2) Fish, cod, Pacific, baked 159.5 g 5 5/8 oz
(3) Fish, salmon, Atlantic, wild, baked 74.4 g 2 5/8 oz – *I used canned
(4) Pumpkin, canned, without salt 61.2 g 1/4 of a cup
(5) Celery, cooked, boiled, drained, pureed, without salt 56.2 g 3/8 of a cup, diced
(6) Spinach, cooked, boiled, drained, pureed, without salt 45.0 g-1/4 cup
(7) Squash, summer, crookneck and straightneck, cooked, boiled, drained, pureed without salt 45.0 g 1/4 of a cup, sliced
(8) Apples, raw, with skin 40.9 g 3/8 of a cup slices
(9) Oil, corn, industrial and retail, all purpose salad or cooking 18.7 g 1 3/8 tbsp – *I use only 1.5 tsp.

You MUST also add the following supplement(s) to prevent essential nutrient deficiencies:
2 3/8 teaspoons (4.75 gram) of Balance IT® Canine – I give Toby half the dose.

Per Above Recipe: 692 Calories; 33% protein calories (228 Calories); 34% fat calories (238 Calories); 33% carbohydrate calories (226 Calories).

[Susan]

Hi Shannon, Shawna has a good point maybe the new food digests better & look at the poo size?? another thing I have found with some weight management & senior less active kibbles they put more carbs & less protein, if they put the percentage % of the protein meats & the Percentage % of the plant proteins you’d see a different in the analysis…I always look at the fiber % if its over 4% fiber I don’t feed….. When we read the protein % that’s plant & meat proteins, not just meat proteins…..if kibble companies were honest we would see percentage on the meat & the percentage on the carbs, % on everything… We need to start asking these companies what is the percentage on the meat proteins… some kibble companies write the meat % in the ingredients next to the meat…..another thing Duck isn’t a lean meat where salmon is more lean but when I looked the fat % was the same 16% but that’s min fat.. I wonder what the max fat % is… I always email the kibble company & ask what is the max fat%… I know when I buy a kibble with lower fat 8-11% the weight just drops off Patch…maybe try another kibble that’s lower in fat…..Was the Simply Nourish pea heavy?? eg; pea fiber, peas, chick peas, pea flour?? peas, potatoes & chickpeas all boost up the protein %….

[Susan]

Hi have you seen a Dermatologist?? a Dermatologist is the best place to start google one in your area they are a bit dearer then a vet but in the long run you will save money cause all vets do is relieve the itch with drugs & don’t find the cause of the problem…

With my boy it’s Food sensitivities & seasonal environment allergies….I don’t give any steroids as they suppress the immune system or antibiotics as they kill all the good bacteria in the gut & they need a healthy gut to have a strong immune system…. It sounds like you have been going around in circle….
With food did you try elimination diet ? 1 novel protein, 1 carb & feed for 2 months & add dog Omega 3, 6 & 9 Oil, with kibbles it’s too hard, unless you feed a kibble that just has 2-3 ingredients like “California Natural” Lamb & Rice, a few people use this kibble instead of feeding the vet diets….. http://www.californianaturalpet.com/products

With the shampoo which one did you use ? you have to make sure your using the right shampoo for the skin problem your dealing with….. Baths are the best for skin problems, you wash away any allergens & pollens on their skin & fur & if they have yeasty smelly skin, shampoos like Malaseb kill the bacteria & relieve any itch & redness they may have.
I use Malaseb medicated shampoo twice a week in the Spring/Summer months & once maybe twice a month give baths in the Winter months…..It depends if he’s starting to smell & itch at the moment it’s Winter & Patch has no yeasty smell & isn’t itchy, so I must have his diet right finally as soon as he eats a kibble with Barley & chicken he starts scratching & starts to smell yeasty, gets red paws, red under his mouth/chin & sometimes hive like lumps all over the white fur section of his body…when it’s food sensitivities some dogs have sloppy poos, bad farts/gas etc, it starts to do your head in…..
I take Patch for a walk & he’s fine, no itch, nothing, we go for a walk & Patch might walk under a tree or smell a bush that he’s sensitive too, then in 1/2 to 1 hour later he’ll get his hive like lumps all over the white fur on his body & start to itch, sometimes he doesn’t itch when he has his hive lumps… also when you change diet, add new supplements, bath in a new shampoo etc, you have to do 1 thing at a time, if you try a new supplement or add a new ingredient to the diet, it must be done with nothing else new added to diet or put on their skin that day or week, even treats you can not give a little treat cause it may have something he’s sensitive too…..Keep a diary….my vet said you’ll start to see a pattern & I did, I was at the vets the same times every year March/April & November/December that’s when vet said he’s got Seasonal Environment Allergies… & with food sensitivities it can take anywhere from 1 day to 6 weeks to show any symptoms…Patch was eating Wellness Simple he was doing really well then on the 4-5 week his poos started to get real smelly, yellow & soft, so I emailed Wellness & the lady said he’s probably sensitive to an ingredient, it happened on the Wellness Complete health kibbles as well.. so I rotate his kibbles now find, a few limited ingredient kibbles he does good on & rotate before the month is up.. I also cook his dinner, Pork & Sweet Potato & add DigestaVite Plus powder & Dog Omega 3, 6 & 9 Oil, so the meal is balanced…
It’s best to see a Dermatologist….. I’ve joined a Face Book group called “Dog issues, allergies and other information support group” http://www.facebook.com/groups/240043826044760/
the admins that run the group are very helpful so are the ladies in the group, they have links of Dermatologist in your area, prices & cost for blood test, some of the ladies do injections once a week, once the Dermatologist finds out what your dog my be sensitive too, then the Dermatologist de sensitises your dog from that allergen…has your dog been tested for mites?? also are you feeding chicken a lot of the Bull breeds Staffys /Pit Bulls are sensitive to chicken & have skin problems….

[Susan W]

Contact VeRUS for a sample of their foods. (www.veruspetfoods.com) Each of their formulas is suitable for a diabetic dog. Most dog foods contain simple carbohydrates which are more difficult to digest, have empty calories, and raise blood sugar rapidly. VeRUS’ formulas offer complex carbohydrates, which slowly release glucose and energy into the body, as well as being metabolized better to reduce fat storage. This means there will not be a quick influx of sugars into the body, like the simple carbs do.
I have had really good luck with their Advanced Opticoat formula. My dogs aren’t diabetic but my little one is diet sensitive and extremely incredibly itchy when she ISN’T eating the Opticoat. This formula is also made with fish but it isn’t gross fishy smelling and it isn’t greasy or sticky. Picky little dog loves it, too.
VeRUS doesn’t get the greatest ranking on this website and I’m not really sure why. They have never had a recall (in more than 20 years). When you fill out their contact form, an actual person will email you, answer/ask questions, and send you samples. Nice samples.

[anonymously]

https://www.chewy.com/nutrisca-grain-free-salmon-chickpea/dp/35033
Ingredients
Salmon, Menhaden Fish Meal, Peas, Chickpeas, Salmon Meal, Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Sunflower Oil, Pea Fiber, Flaxseed, Calcium Carbonate, Salmon Oil (a source of DHA), Dicalcium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Dried Eggs, Natural Flavor, Tomato Pomace, Carrots, Cranberries, Apricots, Choline Chloride, Zinc Proteinate, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, Iron Proteinate, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Copper Proteinate, Manganese Proteinate, Folic Acid, Calcium Iodate, Cobalt Proteinate, Biotin, Selenium Yeast, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Rosemary Extract

PS: I just noticed the rosemary extract (probably minute amounts) check with your vet first.
I have good results with this limited ingredient product.
Seizure disorders are often idiopathic, unknown cause. Sure there are triggers, some as benign as the weather….
Consult a specialist for a more detailed evaluation if the regular vet isn’t being helpful.

[Christine W]

I am going out of my mind reading about white potatoes! My 9 year old pug needs to lose a few pounds,i narrowed it down to Wellness Core reduced fat,but there seems to be quite a bit of white potato/potato flake in it.It was given 5 stars,so i’m really confused! but it does have the higher protein lower fat.The carbs are 42% which to me is coming from the potatoes.ANY advice on white potato is SO appreciated.I also believe it’s grain free.On another note i read the green tea extract is coming from China? i’d love feedback from Mike,as it’s almost if not the last ingredient.Thank you 🙂

[Susan]

Hi, have you thought of cooking?? you have a very small dog so you can make a batch of food & freeze meal, with cooking you can feed what you want to feed…….Kibbles with grains & grain free kibbles both need a carb to bind the kibble & some grain free kibble have more starchy sugar carbs then the kibbles with grains, when a dog is sensitive to an ingredient they start to get that yeasty smell & start scratching…… I bath weekly in Malaseb medicated shampoo, it’s excellent & kills the bacteria on their skin & leaves them feeling so soft…
Have a look at Dr Judy Morgan site http://www.drjudymorgan.com/articles/food-therapy/
Dr Judy Morgan also sells supplements to balance the meals & has easy recipes on YouTube to follow…. I think it’s her husband that’s in some cooking videos….

There’s also “Balance It”
http://secure.balanceit.com/ Click on link then it will say “Click here Free Pet Recipes” & you fill out the quick questionnaire, all your pet health problems, if you tick too many health problems, it will say you need to make an appointment with one of their Nutritionists, but if you click a few health problems then recipes will come up to cook then you add the “Balance it” to balance the meals…..Fresh foods are best, I cook & I feed kibble… Kibble for breakfast-Taste of the Wild Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb & cooked meal for dinner…. I cook my meal sometimes & make Patches meal as well, we eat the same meal some nights, he eats lean pork mince or lean veal mince made into rissoles that I bake in the oven & boiled sweet potato, cabbage, broccoli, I freeze all this in meal sizes….
I feed 1 cup meat/rissoles cut up mixed with 1/2 cup mashed veggies….feed low glycemic veggies, Patch doesn’t get many veggies cause they are high in fiber, Patch has IBD & needs a low fiber low, fat diet….

[Holly E]

I know this isn’t an Editor’s Choice food, but a highly recommended the last I read. I’m wondering if anyone is feeding their cat or dog this food and experienced any problems? My cat and dog have done great on this food and it seemed like a great option being low carb/starch free for a dog with chronic uti’s, however they have seemed to develop allergies. My cat, watery eyes and my dog watery eyes and itching. It most certainly could be environmental, but could it also be something in the food? And if admin reads this why isn’t it an “Editor’s Choice” food? Are there questionable or less inferior ingredients?

[Darnell S]

I have a 15month old Shitz Tzu who recently was diagnosed with yeast in the ears. Not knowing a thing about this issue, my vet said it is common with dogs with floppy ears. Diet is a important factor that my vet mentioned. So the best advice if your dog has yeasty ears is to first see your vet, get your baby’s ears cleaned and follow the vet’s medication recommendation. Next – look at your dog’s diet. my findings suggest a NO CARB, GRAIN and NO SUGARS FREE diet. Potatoes seemed to be a major culprit. I was making my dog’s food which consist of cooked un seasoned chicken, sweet potatoes, peas, carrots, green beans, pumpkin, and brown rice. All of the ingredients was 100% all natural. Sounds like a real good diet until my vet said he was eating too much cards so she has him on a fish diet with kale, broccoli, squash, seedless cucumbers.
So wish me luck with this diet. Yeast is a painful time for your dogs.
ANY SUGGEATIONS FOR WHAT OTHER FRUITS DOGS CAN EAT TO PREVENT YEAST???

[Megan W]

My 7 year old pit bull was diagnosed with low grade lymphoma last December. The vet put her on a home made low carb, high protein and fat diet. She put her on immuplex, livaplex, thymex, catalyn from the Standard Process company and wei qi booster and stasis breaker chinese herbs. As for her food i have been giving her 1/2 cup of veggies (dark leafy greens, pumpkin sweet potato or squash, red peppers, alfalfa sprouts, blue berries, black berries, ect) and 1 cup of whole chicken quarters (minus bone) or ground beef, fish, lamb, ect with chicken liver or gizzards added in smaller ammounts. All food is lightly cooked, not raw. I add nordic naturals fish oil, and olive or coconut oil to her food. I also add seaweed calcium and a pinch of tumeric. I add a raw egg to her breakfast every other day.
So far Natalia has been doing great and her monthly CBCs have been relatively stable. Around Febuary she did start a Chlorambucil/ Prednisone regiment because we found lympoma cells in her mammary chain. The vet wasnt too concerned but we felt like it was best to stay ahead of the game and stop any progression with some light chemo.
My question as far as diet is this. Can I do anything better or different? I know there are people on this site who have been doing home cooked for a long time and i just want your input.

[Kathleen C]

Shawna, unfortunately the Dr. Tim’s I’ve ordered has less protein than the Weruva, but also fewer calories and less fat. I’m hoping those differences help and don’t hurt. The calorie count is the smallest I think I’ve seen at around 250 per cup or so. Most seem to have over 300. Whatever, I’m going to try it out since Jack has gone up to 20 lbs and I can’t allow this. Also, the company says the food has 40% carbs.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 6 months ago by Kathleen C.

[Shawna]

Kathleen C,

There are two really good studies in the Journal of Nutrition showing higher protein foods work very well as weight loss diets for dogs. Unlike higher fiber foods they also were better at keeping muscle on the dog.

Here’s the two papers if interested
“High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/134/8/2087S.full

“Weight Loss in Obese Dogs: Evaluation of a High-Protein, Low-Carbohydrate Diet” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/6/1685S.full

I had a Papillon come in (I foster) that was over 30 pounds. She now weighs 12 pounds and has eaten a very high protein (and therefore higher in fat) diet since coming in.

[Kathleen C]

Well, Dr. Tim’s fat is 8-10% and the fiber is max 10%, so except for the lower protein it may give me a bit more control over his weight even with more carbs. Also, maybe the carbs will fill him up more and he won’t be after me to feed him every time I move. Thank you for your help. I’m going to see if Chewy can send me a small bag to try out.

[theBCnut]

It isn’t common for dogs to retain water unless they have kidney disease or congestive heart failure. However, I just learned from my diabetic brother that people retain about 4-5 pounds of water for each pound of glycogen stored, so maybe dogs do likewise.

As far as Dr Tim’s, it is a good quality food. Any low fat food will have higher carbs. There is no way around that. Fiber is reported as carbs, so you may want to also be aware of fiber content in any food you look at.

[Kathleen C]

theBCnut: Someone said something about he might be holding water. I thought they were kidding, but is this something I should look into? Also, does anyone know about Dr. Tim’s dog food? Is this something I could start him on? It’s low fat but the company says the carbs are 40%.

[Susan]

Hi Joan, is he on an ant acid medication now every 12 hours? & do you feed cooked meals instead of kibble??
Kibble can make the acid reflux worse I’m finding, kibble has too many carbs that are soluble fiber & sit in the stomach…. Soluble fiber slows digestion then causes the acid reflux…google “foods that ferment” or “Vegetables that ferment” they are soluble fiber, stay away from them foods that are soluble fiber foods… like oats, barley, rye, peas, legumes, http://www.dietitians.ca/Downloads/Factsheets/Food-Sources-of-Soluble-Fibre.aspx
That’s why some vet prescription diets work, they have more insoluble fiber.. I learnt this from the Hills Nutrition lady when I first rescued Patch & found he didn’t get his acid reflux when he ate Hills Z/d Ultra but he got itchy skin & smelly like yeast & poos was tooo soft, so I had the find a kibble that didn’t have tooo much soluble fiber & more insoluble fiber…low fiber diets. around 3%-fiber.
“Taste Of The Wild” Pacific Stream Smoked Salmon & Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb seem to work for Patch, some days I only feed 1 meal that’s kibble & a cooked meal, that’s lean chicken breast with sweet potatoes or lean pork mince made into rissoles & sweet potatoes..1 serving of sweet potatoes has 2.2grams of insoluble fiber & Patch is doing perfect poos finally…
Try feeding 1 cup chicken breast or lean turkey & 1/4 to 1/2 a cup boiled sweet potatoes… I put thru a blender & blend for a few seconds…. I cook then freeze in sections & take out when needed..

[Susan]

Hi Andrea, I understand what you & your poor dog is going thru, my Patch has IBD (Stomach) + Helicobacter-Pylori, he gets BAD acid reflux to the point he was crying whinging wanting me to rub his stomach & pancreas area…Vet just says its his IBD his stomach there’s not much I can do except put him on Steroids (Prednisone) I finally gave in
to vet after 1 yr saying NO to steroids & tried 5mg Prednisone & it made poor Patch vomit feel sick & diarrhea so vet said cut in 1/2 gave 2.5mg, for 2 days then I would stop for 2 days it seem to stop his stomach pain but he still felt nauseous & kept licking & licking mouth & front paws…..

Have you ever had an Endoscope + Biopsies done?? to see if he has the Helicobacter infection?? ask vet PLEASE do biopsies for the Helicobacter as soon as they take the triple therapy meds it kills the Helicobacter that’s living in their stomach wall their acid reflux goes away…. Then the Helicobacter comes back aaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhHHHHH
I’m learning so much thru poor Patch & so are Patches vets, we are finding once we kill the Helicobacter then diet is the answer so it doesn’t come back again, a diet low in carbs, low fiber & Gluten free & no beet pulp in the kibble…
I tried a raw diet thru a Naturopath but Patch was regurgitating the raw, water kept coming back up into his mouth when he burped, then Patch would get his acid efflux, I think the digestive enzymes digested the raw meat to quick….

Stop feeding the Hills vet diet I/d, Patch was put on the I/d Low Fat Restore & it made his acid reflux worse…. all vet diets are high in carbs, grains, by product meats, beet pulp, fermentable carbs that feed the bacteria in the gut & are responsible for gut inflammation, gas, bloating etc.. certain foods are no good for Acid Reflux, Helicobacter, Gerds, IBD, Dysbiosis, SIBO & IBS….

As we get older we make less & less Hydrocloric Acid in the stomach, (google Hyprochlorhydria) chances are your dog has the Helicobacter..Patch is a grinder he starts grinding his teeth when he has his acid, He was taking Losec 10mg morning & 10mg at night 12 hours apart doesn’t really matter before food after food….
Zantac needs to be taken 40mins before food….there’s a stronger Pump Proton Inhibitor that works quicker called Lansprazole (Prevacid) but I don’t know if dogs can take it I’d say they can cause they can take Losec & Somac also maybe ask vet can you change to Somac(Pantoprazole) Somac is more for Oesophagus & Barrett’s Esophagus so maybe the Somac may work better I’ve tried both Losec & Somac with Patch & the Somac stopped his burping
& reflux more then the Losec..I was given 20mg Somac daily for 2 weeks..but he starts to get a fermenting smell coming from his mouth when Patch is on a PPI’s Somac& Losec for more the 1-2 weeks so I start reducing over 3 days then stop I’ve never had Patch on a PPI for more then 2 weeks..
DO NOT just STOP giving a PPI, once he’s been on a Pump Proton Inhibitor (PPI) for more then 21-28days, you need too slowly reduce the dose, that’s what I’m doing at the moment, I’ve been on Somac for 13yrs, 80mg a day, Patches stomach vet that did Patches
Endoscope & Biopsies told me PPI are no good & wouldn’t put Patch on any PPI, I was allowed to give Patch either the Somac or the Losec for just 4-5 days. when he has bad acid reflux or when he takes the Triple Therapy meds for helicobacter then he’s on a PPI for about 2 weeks…then I have to stop & only give Liquid Mylanta…The liquid Mylants seems to work the best instantly he has relief…You can give the Losec & the liquid Mylanta I was with Patch…Patches other vet wrote me out a script for Losec & said just give it to him, but I do what the Gastro vet wants never give him Losec or Somac for more then 2 weeks..

After a few diet changes Patch acid reflux went away I was in SHOCK 2 yrs of acid reflux
on & off…
I had just given Patch the Triple Therapy, Metronidazole, Amoxicillin, Losec then I started feeding Taste Of The Wild Pacific Stream & now I feed the TOTW Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb for breakfast & lunch & a cooked meal chicken breast & Sweet Potato for diner, I put the cooked Chicken breast pieces & sweet potatoes thru the blender I digest the food as much as I can.. Why the TOTW kibble worked & stopped his acid reflux was there are no NO GRAINS cause the fat is 15% I was told keep Patch on a low fat diet 8-10% fat but with any kibbles when the fat is real low the carbs are real high if you can start cooking lean white meats like Fish, turkey, Chicken etc the protein is lean & not to rich.. I bought Canidae Pure Land Bison about 1 month ago the fat % was the same as TOTW Roasted Lamb 15% but the protein & the Kcals Per cup were higher then the TOTW Roasted Lamb Patch got his real bad acid reflux back again so I’m learning kibbles Kcals per cup have to be lower the 360Kcal per cup & the protein has to be around 27%max protein..
I have found kibble is the worse to feed I’ll feed Patch his cooked meals all day then the next day I’ll feed the kibble & he will get acid reflux some of the days I feed his kibble also soaking kibble in water made Patch acid reflux worse vet told me to stop soaking his kibble in water & the acid reflux stopped..
I’ve tried Live Probiotics & Digestive Enzymes there’s 2 types of enzymes the probiotics made Patch feel sick & the Digestive Enzymes made him feel sick as well he was eating grass like a cow when I added the digestive enzyme capsule to his meal….
Dogs with EPI have their food soaked in different Enzymes so make sure you look into the difference in enzymes….

[Susan]

Hi,
My last dog had fatty Tumors but you have to watch them & measure them & make sure it’s not growing real quick….. Angie ended up having Mast Cell Tumor & a stupid vet said oh that’s nothing just an old lady wort she’ll be right, one year later she wasn’t her happy playful self, so I took her to a new vet & they rushed her in that morning for surgery & removed every single lump, she looked like a patch quilt after surgery, 2 lumps ended up being Mast Cell Tumours high grade 2 cancer….
here’s a good link & recommends homemade raw fresh whole foods or commercial raw or cooked meal….. http://ottawavalleydogwhisperer.blogspot.com.au/2013/03/fatty-tumors-lipomas-in-dogs-benign.html

I feed kibble Taste Of The Wild Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb for breakfast & Rissoles Lean Pork Rissoles, Sweet Potato, Pumkin, Broccolli, Zucchini all mashed up for Dinner, the lean pork mince is made into long rissoles & baked in oven & I freeze about 1-2 weeks worth & bring out as needed, same with the sweet potatoes & pumkin, I cook & freeze sections, take out the night before & put in the fridge… I add 1/4 teaspoon DigestaVite Plus powder to balance the meal the DigestVite Plus helps stomach, bowel, skin etc..

If you do feed a kibble make sure the carbs are LOW….. Feed 1 meal raw or cooked & the other meal kibble, I like Canidae Pure Formulas but Canidae was too rich for Patch, he has IBD (Stomach) http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products

[Susan]

Hi Haley, have you emailed Farmina? ask them any questions you may have.. I just google Farmina & clicked on the UK English link, send them a emailed they’d speak English…..link down the bottom..

Farmina kibble looks like a 5 star food & the ingredient list they write, Fresh Boneless Chicken (28%) dehydrated Lamb (27%) being written in the UK they would have translated everything & the Dehydrated Lamb must be dehydrated lamb not Lamb Meal… Farmina was invented with the help of an English company its all in the link below…

I love how Farmina writes the percentage of the meat which is excellent, you know how much protein your getting also the kibbles with grains Farmina writes oats-10% etc……Most kibble brands just write protein % under Guaranteed Analysis, the plant protein & meat protein are put all together & you don’t know if the kibble has more plant protein or meat protein….. I just looked at Farmina’s “Analytical Compounds” (Guaranteed Analysis) & Farmina have written it saying “Raw” the way all kibbles should write their ingredient list…. When ingredients are written it’s done when the ingredients are raw not cooked but they don’t tell us that on the kibble packet or on their online site.. I learnt thru Rodney Habib F/B page when Rodney brought out a video showing us how kibble companies con us, they write Turkey # 1 ingredient then the next ingredient is potatoes or corn, when potatoes are cooked they weigh more then cooked turkey, so really the potatoes are #1 ingredient or corn & your kibble bag is full of corn or potatoes…. an meat ingredient being 1st ingredient is good, but you need at least 2-4 meat ingredients as 1st 2nd 3rd & 4th ingredients, then a carb.

also about the shipping from Italy to America, I live Australia & we get kibbles all the way from America…. I was told by Sunday Pets the shipping containers that were shipping their Sunday Pets (New Zealand Brand) from NZ to Australia the containers were pack with some type of cooling ice packed foam to keep the containers cool…I don’t know if all kibble companies do this but ask Farmina & ask where is the food is made that comes to America is it made in the UK or Italy?
I got a bag of Canidae Pure Land the other month & when I opened the bag the kibble smelt so fresh & that has come all the way from America, no dogs had died yet in Australia from kibbles from overseas…
If you like the look of Farmina Pet Food then buy a small bag, smell it, even taste it, if your pup does well on it, then feed it….Farmina may be too rich, he may have diarrhea being around 42% protein you wont know unless you try it,…
The best diet for any cat or dog is a raw diet so maybe contact a nutritionist & have a raw diet made up.. Here’s an English Farmina link hover over “Farmina” & read all about the Russo family when they started in 1965 then in 1999 started making Pet Food then Farmina was created in 2008 with the help of an English company. Good luck with your new pup…. http://www.farmina.com/uk/d-dog-food.html

[Kathleen C]

This is not a large breed puppy, but I’d heard Wellness has pulled away from Diamond and may be coming back to its previous good quality, though not sure yet. I can’t seem to keep my dog from gaining weight on the Weruva kibble and was thinking about going back to the Wellness Core Reduced fat. Any thoughts on this? It’s about the only low fat dog food I felt safe in using. The Weruva has more fat, fewer calories and carbs, but still seems to keep my dog at least 1/2 lb over what I want him to weigh. The vet says he should be around 18-19 lb and I’m trying for 19. Half a pound on a small dog can seem like more.

[anonymously]

Orijen Adult Dry Dog Food

This protein packed dog food is formulated to best match the natural needs of your dog.

“The recipe contains well balanced meats, vegetables, and fruits—even deemed fit for human consumption. It is also grain free with limited, specially selected carbohydrates. The Omega 3 fatty acids support a sleek coat and healthy skin. The botanicals were selected by veterinarians to help support the organs, cleanse the body of toxins, and maintain a healthy metabolism. It is also a low sodium dog food with a sodium content listed at 0.3%.”

“The top listed ingredients include boneless chicken, chicken meal, chicken liver, whole herring, and boneless turkey. Some of the other fruits and vegetables include red lentils, green peas, green lentils, cranberries, and blueberries. Customers who purchase Orijen say it may be a bit expensive, but it does not make any compromises when it comes to the health of pets. Many say it is likely the best low sodium dog food out there and reflects the natural, ancestral diet of their pets”.

Above is an excerpt from: https://www.munch.zone/best-low-sodium-dog-food/

Check with your vet, he may suggest a prescription diet.

[Jane J]

I will look into it, thanks.

Edited to add:

It doesn’t look suitable. From this website:
“Near-average protein. Below-average fat. And above-average carbs when compared to a typical dry dog food.”

The page is here…
/dog-food-reviews/verus-dog-food-dry/

• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Jane J.

[Coonhound Mama]

While I feed mostly prey model raw, I do feed fruits and vegetables a few times a week for antioxidant and vitamin/mineral benefit. I try to stick to low sugar and low carbohydrate fruits and veggies so as not to overload the system with too much unnecessary stuff. Blueberries, spinach, kale, chia seed, pumpkin and the occasional broccoli, apple, pear or green bean might make its way into the bowl a few times a month 🙂 I do offer butternut squash as a treat from time to time because she loves it like Debbie J said also!

[Michael C]

I thought you might be interested in this article. One of the things they suggest to reduce the chances of cancer is a low carb diet, and another is an anti-inflammatory diet part of which is the low carbs and another part is the food being low in Omega 6 fatty acids but higher in Omega 3s. However that leads me to wonder what amount of Omega 6s are considered high, and what amount of Omega 3s should be in the food?

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2016/05/18/golden-retriever-cancer.aspx?utm_source=petsnl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20160518Z1&et_cid=DM105748&et_rid=1487025527

[Kathleen C]

My dog eats Weruva kibble and loves it. Lower fat and calories, high protein, low carbs.

[Scared D]

How can that be BC Nut? The rating are taken from public sources???

I will rate then, “5 Stars and Enthusiastically Recommended”. Abady for Maintenance & Stress gets 94% of its GA protein from animal sources and is low in carbohydrates at 20%. One source of carbohydrates and one source of plant ingredient, simple white rice. Several ingredients organic and human grade. This food is a granular product and not subject to high temperature extrusion and high temperature drying. The granular nature makes it much more digestible than kibbled foods. It has no expandable fiber forcing the dog or cat to drink incessantly after eating. It comes in a plain brown box without silly pictures and claims and the foods are void of misleading names.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Scared D.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Scared D.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Scared D.

[crazy4cats]

Here is an article written by a vet that was included in my Petcurean newsletter:

CATS | DOGS | HEALTH & NUTRITION | APRIL 8, 2016
The Great Grain Debate: Should pet foods avoid grains?
Dr. Jennifer Adolphe
BY: DR. JENNIFER ADOLPHE
Dog in the woods
Grain-free diets are becoming much more commonplace in the pet food aisle. There are a number of reasons for this growing trend, such as the belief that grains are harmful for pets or that grain-free diets are more appropriate for dogs and cats from an evolutionary perspective.

Also, gluten — a protein found in wheat, barley and rye — has been touted as a substance to be feared in many popular human nutrition diets, and pet and human nutrition trends usually go hand-in-hand. With so many grain and grain-free options available, what do you need to know about the great grain debate?

Grains are an important source of complex carbohydrates, which have three or more sugar molecules joined together so they are more slowly digested than simple sugars that only have one or two molecules. Although carbohydrates are not considered essential nutrients in the diets of dogs and cats, and are often considered “fillers,” they do play a critical role in your pet’s body.

In particular, carbohydrates provide a highly digestible, readily available energy source. Foods rich in complex carbohydrates are also an important source of essential nutrients. The shape, texture and density of kibble depends on the carbohydrate (starch) content of the food. This is important, as mouth feel and the structure of the kibble help to determine palatability.

Recent genetic research suggests that one of the important steps in the domestication of dogs was their adaptation to a diet high in carbohydrates relative to the diet of carnivorous wolves. Carbohydrates are often considered to be detrimental to cats, but research suggests that moderate amounts may actually be beneficial in promoting insulin sensitivity.

Some of the grains commonly found in pet foods include barley, corn, rice, oats and wheat. Whole grains include all parts of the grain, while refined grains have the nutrient-rich germ and bran layers removed.

Whole grains promote digestive health since they are not only an excellent source of complex carbohydrates, but are also rich in fiber. Dietary fiber is a unique type of carbohydrate that cannot be digested by your pet’s digestive enzymes, but nonetheless provides many benefits.

For example, oats and barley contain a special type of fiber called beta-glucan, which has been shown in numerous human studies to fight heart disease and diabetes. Beta-glucan may also be beneficial in pet foods to control blood glucose and prevent obesity.

Grain-free does not mean carbohydrate-free, as complex carbohydrates can be sourced from nongrain ingredients such as peas, lentils, chickpeas, tapioca, potatoes and sweet potatoes. Some pets may have allergies to one or more specific grains, but it might not be necessary to eliminate all grains.

Gluten-free diets are necessary for humans diagnosed with celiac disease or nonceliac gluten sensitivity, but this is not a common problem in pets and most tolerate gluten without any difficulty. The exception is some Irish Setters with inherited gluten sensitivity.

Many grain-free pet foods are higher in protein than conventional diets and, while extra protein is typically not a problem for most healthy pets, it can be problematic in certain medical conditions such as kidney disease. Since all foods contain a balance of carbohydrates, fat and protein, decreasing the amount of carbohydrate in a food will increase the fat and/or protein content.

What are some of the benefits of grain-free carbohydrate sources? Peas are an excellent source of carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins and minerals, and provide most of the essential amino acids required by dogs and cats. Peas also provide an added environmental benefit in that they are used as a tool in sustainable agriculture to add nitrogen back into the soil.

Tapioca does not contain protein, so it is not considered a potential allergen or source of food sensitivity. This is especially important in limited ingredient diets that are designed for food hypersensitive pets.

Potatoes are a rich source of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamin C and potassium. Sweet potatoes are a major source of vitamin C and beta-carotene, which act as antioxidants, as well as manganese and potassium.

One of the primary benefits of grain-free diets is the increased variety of new and unique pet food recipes available. This allows pet parents to choose a diet with or without grains that works best for their dog or cat.

This article originally appeared on Multibriefs.com

Hope this article helps!

[alexis w]

from my research i have found that a lot of times what seems like a food allergy is actually a nutrient deficiency, have you thought about giving a good supplement with the homemade food? i see you were suggested to give a multivitamin. I have found Nupro All Natural Dog Food Supplement to be very high quality and it supplies calcium as well so you don’t have to worry as much about the amount of calcium you are adding to the diet. I actually feed a low carb, higher protein grain free diet to my pup and since I have started it she has stopped itching and licking. here is a link to my blog with some recipes and a link to the Nupro website at the bottom of each recipe: http://www.calliefoodrecipes.wordpress.com

[Jane J]

Thanks for the suggestions, unfortunately none of them are as low carb as Evo, tho’ a couple are close.

Evo 16% calorie rated carbs
Blue Buffalo Wilderness 33%
Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural 22%
Canidae Pure 30%
Nature’s Variety Instinct 25%
Solid Gold Barking at the Moon 19%

The best of the bunch, Solid Gold, unfortunately uses pea protein for one of its major protein sources, a low bioavailable source, so that rules it out for me. And 30-35% carb is pretty much an average for the better quality foods, so nothing exceptional there.

Whereas the Wysong Epigen is 7% carb, even better than Evo if significantly more expensive.

I will certainly keep checking the Evo location finder. Doing so yesterday I found a store in a not-too-far away town that I wasn’t aware of carrying it, so I will certainly check with them. However, the same locator also lists a store that has discontinued carrying it because they have had supply issues. For the time being, Chewy is selling down their stock. When I called yesterday to find out what was going on, they had 300 bags & were only selling them to the current subscribers, of which I am one.

The reason for my persnickety-ness is that one of my dogs has a recurring sarcoma, & cancers LOVE carbs. So we’re trying to tilt several things in the dog’s favor.

[Michael C]

Evo Turkey and Chicken was still available last week at my local dog food store, so maybe Chewy’s just stopped carrying it? But I do try to rotate between low-carb foods, and, along with Evo, I have used Solid Gold Barking at the Moon, Nature’s Variety Instinct, Canidae Pure (Sea and Elements), Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural and Blue Wilderness in my rotation.

As far as what is going on at Natura Pet Foods, now that it is owned by Mars, I’m purely guessing that they are trying to cut some costs. Innova might not have been that much different than California Naturals so why have both brands, and I was told by my dog food store that they stopped making both an Evo Turkey and Chicken large bites and small bites and now just have the small bites (But Natura’s website still shows both sizes, so????). But, again, I am just guessing.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 7 months ago by Michael C.

[Jane J]

I’m having difficulty finding a consistent source of Evo dry dog food. I’ve been ordering from Chewy’s, but when I went to adjust my order today the site says the product is no longer available.

I am looking for a dry dog food that is VERY LOW in carbs & reliably available.

I’ve just started researching & have found the Wysong brand that seems suitable. I’d be interested in other’s experience w/that brand, and suggestions for other lines to look into for a low carb kibble.

[Shawna]

laconrad,

I spent an hour creating a post last night only to have it disappear. I’m guessing it was all the links include so in this post I’m only going to include a few links but I most certainly can provide them if wanted.

I definitely agree that dogs shouldn’t eat nothing but meat, or even meat and bone exclusively but it is an absolute fact that they have no physiological requirement for carbohydrates. Waltham is a reliable source of info on this —
“Cats and dogs can sythesise their own blood glucose from amino acids.
Carbohydrate, therefore is not an essential macronutrient. However,
if provided in their diet, cats and dogs can utilise carbohydrates and
they are used in pet foods as sources of energy and dietary fibre.
Carbohydrate levels tend to be higher in dry pet food than in wet
pet food.” https://www.waltham.com/dyn/_assets/_pdfs/waltham-booklets/Essentialcatanddognutritionbookletelectronicversion.pdf

In fact, the AAFCO (as of 2008 at least) doesn’t have any requirement for carbohydrates in the canine diet. There’s a minimum for fat and a minimum for protein but no required carbs. Many complete and balanced canned foods have no added carbs at all.

For the record, I do think certain vegetables and fruits are beneficial in the canine diet but protein and fat should not be displaced with any carbs. I personally have no use for most grains but I do utilize foods with millet or quinoa sometimes (to mix things up).

Dogs have been eating kibble for less than 200 years. Evolution doesn’t happen in 200 years. Yes, I would agree that my dogs ancestors probably got some carbs as table scraps however carbs in kibble is not the same as carbs in fresh, albeit possibly cooked, carbs. From my understanding grains weren’t processed in the manner we process them today either. Not to mention GMOs, glyphosate / etc and hybridization to increase the protein content wan’t a thing back then.

Ammonia is not toxic unless the liver is damaged and I’ve never read any research (even in humans) suggesting excess protein caused cirrhosis. Yes in cases where the liver is excessively damaged, or a shunt, limiting protein and feeding certain kinds, like dairy, helps alleviate ammonia from building up but it doesn’t damage the liver. I would agree that 78% of the amino acids in certain meat proteins is all that is used but the bioavailability of commonly used plant proteins aren’t any better and often worse.

Excess fiber in the diet can actually bind up minerals and prevent their absorption. Grains and legumes have anti-nutrients like phytates and enzyme inhibitors as well as lectin proteins which in susceptible persons and pets can lead to illness including some pretty nasty disease (even autoimmune disease). Although possibly not “nasty” I recently read research suggesting gluten as a cause for “Canine epileptoid cramping syndrome” in Border Terriers. In humans these lectin proteins from certain carbohydrates is also considered a factor in IgA nephropathy (a form of kidney disease) as well as type 1 diabetes (the kind dogs get).

Protein absolutely does not “cause” damage to the kidneys and some reports suggest dogs with kidney disease actually have an increased need for protein. They now know that “senior” dogs actually have an increased need as well – “as much as 50% more protein” and minimums for seniors is suggested at 25% — “minimum”. My favorite source of info on protein as a cause / contributing factor to kidney disease is “Mythology of Protein Restriction for Dogs with Reduced Renal Function” http://www.championpetfoods.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Myths_of_High_Protein.pdf

There are two papers published in the Journal of Nutrition suggesting that overweight dogs, even “obese” dogs, lose just as much weight (albeit slightly slower) on a high protein diet, 56% protein, as those fed higher fiber diets without the “muscle wasting” that is often seen in lower protein fed dogs. The body will break down muscle when it’s amino acid requirements aren’t being met through diet.

[Shawna]

laconrad,

Although I do feel small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables are quite healthy for dogs, carbohydrates aren’t a necessary requirement – even in the modern dog. Yes, when properly processed, they can utilize them but they still aren’t a necessary macronutrient. Waltham is a reliable source of information on this – they state “Cats and dogs can sythesise their own blood glucose from amino acids. Carbohydrate, therefore is not an essential macronutrient. However, if provided in their diet, cats and dogs can utilise carbohydrates and they are used in pet foods as sources of energy and dietary fibre.
Carbohydrate levels tend to be higher in dry pet food than in wet pet food.” https://www.waltham.com/dyn/_assets/_pdfs/waltham-booklets/Essentialcatanddognutritionbookletelectronicversion.pdf

In fact, carbohydrates aren’t even required in complete and balanced foods. There is a minimum protein requirement, a minimum fat requirement but no minimum on carbs. AAFCO guidelines as of 2008 http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=662

They now know that the MINIMUM protein requirement for senior dogs is actually 25%. ” Protein requirements actually increase by about 50% in older dogs, while their energy requirements tend to decrease. When insufficient protein is provided, it can aggravate the age-associated loss of lean body mass and may contribute to earlier mortality. Older dogs should receive at least 25% of their calories from protein, typically provided by diets containing at least 7 g protein/100 Kcal ME.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18656844

It’s also a myth that higher protein amounts have a negative impact on a dog’s kidneys. In fact, dogs WITH kidney disease can safely eat a higher protein diet as long as phosphorus is watched. Here’s my favorite source of info on this “Mythology of Protein Restriction for Dogs with Reduced Renal Function” http://www.championpetfoods.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Myths_of_High_Protein.pdf

The bioavailability of the protein is every bit as important as the overall amount. The more bioavailable the protein the less blood urea nitrogen is created. So the better the quality of the protein the more that can be fed. An ounce of protein from beef, as an example, will be better utilized, leaving less waste, than an ounce of soy protein. Additionally raw protein will be better utilized then it’s cooked counterpart due to amino acid loss lowering bioavailability.

I have never read any literature suggesting protein as a cause of cirrhosis however I would agree that lowering protein would be advised if the liver is already severely damaged. NOT because the protein is further “damaging” the liver however the ammonia not being converted is quite toxic. Even in this article relating to humans they don’t suggest excess dietary protein as a cause https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000302.htm

Excess fiber in the diet has been shown to act as an anti-nutrient. I just this week read a research paper on this but I bookmarked it at work and don’t have access right now.

You’ve mentioned the liver and kidneys several times so I thought I’d add a little more research on the kidneys. “Long-term renal responses to high dietary protein in dogs with 75% nephrectomy. These results do not support the hypothesis that high protein feeding had a significant adverse effect on either renal function of morphology in dogs with 75% nephrectomy.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3702209

Purina Veterinary Diets
“A University of Minnesota study revealed renal aging does not occur in geriatric dogs, at least to the extent that it has been reported in people. When fed a diet of 39% protein and 15% fat (dry matter basis), geriatric dogs maintained relatively stable glomerular filtration rates and had no greater incidence of glomerulosclerosis than those dogs in the protein-restricted (19% dry matter basis) diet group. These and other studies indicate no need for restricted dietary protein, fat, sodium or phosphorus to help minimize renal disease progression in healthy geriatric dogs. Still other studies have shown high dietary protein alone will not cause the development of kidney disease. In addition, research has shown that older dogs may actually require more protein than younger adult dogs, just to maintain normal protein turnover, and to support lean body mass and normal immunocompetence.

Obesity has been associated with arthritis, cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus, neoplasia and decreased survival. Therefore, efforts to maintain ideal body weight and body condition are far more important and appropriate than protein or phosphorus reduction for maintaining health in geriatric dogs.” https://www.purinaveterinarydiets.com/research/senior-dogs-do-old-kidneys-need-new-diets/

Interestingly, at least two papers published in the Journal of Nutrition have shown higher protein diets to be beneficial for weight loss in dogs.

“High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/134/8/2087S.full

“Weight Loss in Obese Dogs: Evaluation of a High-Protein, Low-Carbohydrate Diet” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/6/1685S.full

[Pitlove]

Just to correct something…Malassezia yeast does NOT feed off of carbs as is rumored around the internet, so simply feeding a low carb diet will not achieve anything. Bobby Dog was correct in that way when she said food has nothing to do with yeast. The only role food plays in a yeasty dog is if the yeast is due to a food allergy. As I said my dog is eating a food with roughly 40% carbs with grain in it and his yeast has completely gone away because I’m no longer feeding any of his allergen triggers. I also bathe him in Malaseb shampoo which kills the yeast.

[Susan]

Hi yes the smelly yeast smell would be from his food/diet he’s eating, he needs to be bathed in Malaseb medicated shampoo to kill the bacteria on his skin weekly every 5-7days & for his stomach/bowel, he needs a low carb diet, can he eat what is being cooked for dinner, do you have mash potatoes & veggies & he have a beef mince or chicken mince for him, then a 3 star kibble for breakfast…. I know you probably cant afford to see a vet, the vet will only recommend a vet prescription diet & he’ll probably offer antibiotics & steroids which compromise the immune system & as soon as they stop taking the antibiotics & steroids your back to square one with a smelly stinky dog again…Post a post for a 3 star kibble, that is low in carbs & a good price with limited ingredients & get the money your mum spends for the gravy train & add the rest for the better food then show your mum look he doesn’t need to eat as much cause its a better quality kibble & he doesn’t smell as bad as before now he’s eating the new food but he will still need to be bathed in an antibacterial shampoo, I once saw a lady post about a really good antibacterial shampoo sold in Walmart that’s like the Malaseb medicated shampoo & is cheap but I cant remember the name just make sure it says antibacterial shampoo… Walmart sells the Racheal Ray kibbles the Just 6 Lamb & Rice or the grain free kibbles the Just 6, Lamb & Rice has the least ingredients.. http://nutrish.rachaelray.com/

[Susan]

Hi, change vets & see a vet that’s knows about IBD SIBO EPI etc has she been tested for SIBO? have a look at the fat % & fiber % in the food she is doing well on…. ring Royal Canine & find out what % is the Soluble fiber, Insoluble Fiber & Crude fiber % in the wet tin food, did you try the matching kibble to the wet tin food she’s doing good on?? …. Have you tried limited ingredient kibbles & cooked meals? Have you tried boiled chicken breast, not boil till chicken pieces are like leather, get 1 chicken breast & cut up into small bit size pieces & just before it boils the pieces are normally cooked, take off stove drain water, boil the jug & rinse the chicken pieces with boiled water, the fat & white froth comes off then I put chicken pieces in cold water to stop the cooking process, also boil 1 potato & 1 sweet potato… same cut into bit size pieces… I freeze the Sweet Potato pieces in meal sections, same with the chicken pieces, I freeze in 1/2 cup sections & 1 cup sections…You cant freeze the potato it goes yuk I have found so I cook enough boiled potato for 2-3 days & keep in the fridge, I add 1 cup chicken pieces, a couple pieces of potato & a couple of pieces of sweet potato about 1/4 cup each to 1 cup chicken, put the chicken & potato & sweet potato in the blender & blend for a few seconds, stop when everything is all blended, put 1/2 in the fridge & warm the other 1/2 in micro wave if you have taken out of fridge for about 10-15 sec make sure it isn’t hot, now add 1/2 a can of her wet tin food she does well on & see when you add the chicken pieces, sweet potato & potato if she still does firm poos….maybe start with just the potato first no sweet potato just in case later if poos are firm then try adding some sweet potato… every thing you do has to be limited ingredients & only 1 thing at a time or you wont know what is causing the diarrhea…

My dog gets real sloppy yellow poos from the vet diet Royal Canine Low Fat Intestinal cause it has Maize & boiled rice in it, boiled rice can irritate the bowel causing diarrhea…
Have you tried “California Natural” Lamb Meal & Brown Rice?? it has just 4 ingredients but cause you have a puppy you should have your dog on a puppy large breed Lamb & Rice kibble…. here’s the California Natural web site… a few dogs with IBD do really well on the limited ingredient California Natural, I’m pretty sure its money back guaranteed if it doesn’t agree with your dog….

I really think you should be seeing a specialist that deals in IBD in dogs, she may need to be put on Tylan Powder or Metronidazole or a steroid…. Tylan Powder is excellent & firms poos over night but you need to put the Tylan Powder in empty capsule cause its very bitter & dogs can stop eating cause of the taste it leave a metal taste in their mouth, it’s online how to get a shoe box & put small holes in the top of the empty shoe box, so you can put the Tylan Powder into the empty capsules, you add about 1/8th -1/4 teaspoon into capsule & must be given with a meal once a day if once a day doesn’t firm poo, then give twice a day breakfast meal & dinner meal but I only gave at Dinner meal..

When you try any kibbles or wet tin foods make sure they have limited ingredients…. just 1 protein & 1 carb, another kibble & wet tin food brand you can try is “Natural Balance” Dick Van Patten limited ingredient but look thru all the formulas as some have peas only pick a formula that just has Potato & 1 single protein, that’s why the California Natural Lamb & Rice is the best it has no peas its just Lamb & grounded brown & white rice, feed for breakfast 1/2 cup kibble then wait 5-10mins & then feed 1/2 can of the Royal Canine that she can eat, what ever you try always add her wet tin food but I don’t like feeding wet tin or cooked with dry kibble together, my boy gets pain when I’ve added the wet tin & a kibble dry 2 together your girl might be Ok…. For breakfast I feed cooked chicken sweet potato, then I feed the 1/2 cup kibble for lunch, so you’d feed her wet tin for breakfast, then lunch try just 1/2 cup limited ingredient kibble for lunch, then for dinner her wet tin food do not give anything else that day, no treats nothing, just her wet tin food & the new kibble or the cooked meal……That would cost a bit buying the vet diet wet tin foods being a pup, they eat a bit, that’s why if you can, its cheaper to cook & fresher…..do 1/2 wet tin food & 1/2 cooked chicken/sweet potato also if sweet potato give sloppy poo, then try just the boiled potato, if it does work you will need to balance the cooked meal, I use DigestaVite Plus powder
http://www.californianaturalpet.com/products

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[Susan]

Hi sounds like food sensitivities/intolerances & environment allergies, have you looked at doing the Jean Dobbs salvia testing to get an idea what foods she may be sensitive too, I know people say these test are not 100% but it will give you an idea what foods she may be sensitive too there’s also salvia & hair testing that test for food, mites & tree/plants….. she may be sensitive to dust mites??? also my boy can not have a kibble that’s high fat, high fiber/carb diet, no fish or salmon oils they all cause acid reflux stomach problems…
Can you start to cook for her or even if you feed a cooked meal that’s been pre cooked sectioned then frozen & you take out the night before & put in fridge for next day & feed a kibble for breakfast & cooked for dinner, also change the kibble, stop feeding kibbles with potatoes & specially when potatoes are first ingredient like the Natural Balance is, its too much starchy carbs…..a good kibble should have 2-4 proteins as 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th ingredients then a carb…..
Some grain free kibbles can be very high in starchy carbs…. I have found Patch does best on a kibble that’s lamb chicken fish & Brown rice or a Fish Kibble with sweet potatoes but the fat has to be 10-14% fat or he gets his acid reflux & it must not have fish oil or Salmon oil or he starts grinding his teeth with real bad acid reflux.
He eats Earthborn Ocean Fusion, Taste Of The Wild Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb, Canidae Life Stages, all life stages formula, Canidae Grain free look at the Pure land, Pure Sky & Pure Wild they all have no potatoes & Carbs are 40% & under
http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products
Have a look at the Honest Kitchen aswell
Shop All Dog
look at “Brave” & “Zeal” carbs are 35% or the base mixes you just add the protein….

Baths are you doing weekly baths? I use the “Malaseb” medicated shampoo in Spring Summer, bath every 4-7 days, whenever Patchy is real itchy & has his red paws/toes, itchy bum, etc …… I also use Hydrocortisone 1% cream, every night when Patch is sleeping, I do the skin body check for any red toes, red paws, white fur thinning out above right eye etc & lightly apply some Hydrocortisone cream next morning itch & redness has all cleared up also I use the “Huggie Baby Wipes” Cucumber & Aloe, when we come home from a walk or he goes outside, I wipe Patch down, a new baby wipe per section of the body, these Cucumber & Aloe wipes are really good, sold in Supermarket baby section, I think you can get special wipes for environment allergies & hot spots as well, there’s a Face Book group called “Dog issues, allergies and other information support” group, one of the admins uses the special wipes & has started cooking & using “Balance It” to balance the diet……

Normally when they have Food Sensitivities/Intolerances they will have stomach & bowel problems & itchy skin…….My Patch gets he has Seasonal Environment Allergies & Food Intolerances & Sensitivities to certain foods, I did an elimination diet, then started adding foods… there’s no point trying a vegan diet, the carbs would be thru the roof 50-70% carbs like the vet diets have & you want a low carb diet……dogs are made to eat meat, have you thought of trying a Raw diet?? Patch did real well on Raw diet his skin cleared up within 1 week BUT cause he has IBD he kept regurgitating water up into his mouth, I think it was the Digestive enzymes the Naturopath made me use cause of his IBD I was so worried he’ll get diarrhea from the raw diet, so we used digestive enzymes & I think they digested the raw to quick & Patch was burping up & water was coming up into mouth… I’m going to try the raw again next Summer…..
I would honestly start again with the diet building up the immune system probiotice foods high in probiotics Kefir/yogurt etc & see if you see a change, if your on face Book Monica Segal has a group called “K9Kitchen” she has put up a easy recipe to make called “Omega 3 Boost” cookies, I’m going to make some for Patch, I really believe you need to boost their omega 3 & some kibbles are very high in omega 6 & very low in omega 3 then the dog starts having skin problems, stop the fish oils & try other things that are high in omega 3, olive oil, sardines in Spring water are good 1-2 a day this way its given thru foods… also what tin foods are you feeding? I was feeding tin foods at night as well & they were making Patch itch they had gelling agents in them something in the wet food made his paws go real red & he’d start licking his paws & get itchy, try replacing the wet tin foods with cooked meals… I’m feeding boil chicken breast, sweet potato not much only 1/4 to 1/3 cup & broccoli & 1 cup chicken, cook & add greens zucchini celery spinach etc… I feed more protein then carbs in the cooked meals…1 cup meat 1/2 cup veggies…