Hi mrsGHT –
To calculate grams of calcium per 1,000 kcal. do the following:
1) Calculate grams of calcium per kilogram – Multiply the actual percent calcium by 1,000 grams (it’s very important that you obtain the actual level of calcium from the company, don’t use the minimum stated on the bag as foods often contain much more than the stated minimum).
2) Divide grams of calcium per kilogram by calories per kilogram (calories per kilogram can generally be found on the product packaging or website).
3) Multiply the grams of calcium per calorie (obtained in step 2) by 1,000 calories.
For example, if a food states that the actual level of calcium is 1.2% and there are 3,500 calories per kilogram: 1,000 grams X 0.012 = 12 grams of calcium per kilogram. 12 grams of calcium per kilogram/3,500 calories per kilogram = 0.00343 grams of calcium per calorie. 0.00343 grams of calcium per calorie X 1,000 calories = 3.43 grams of calcium per 1,000 calories.
I evaluated the Taste of the Wild Formulas when I created the list and none had appropriate calcium levels for large or giant breed growth.
Sorry – I meant to say “Taste of the Wild” Pacific Stream Puppy food.
Can you explain how you arrive at the number of calcium grams per 1000 kcal? Also, what is your opinion of Taste of the Pacific Stream Puppy food for a 4 month old Bouvier des Flandres? Somewhere (not on this forum) I read it was good for large breed puppies, but can’t find that info now. Thank you
I can’t advise you on a canned food, but consider soaking the kibble so that you can mash it with a fork or throwing it in a blender. That way his digestive enzymes can get to more surfaces to work on it. And for a few weeks, you might want to get a digestive supplement from the healthfood store, you want one that has enzymes and probiotics. Some dogs just need the extra help when their system is upset, some dogs need it for life. If it turns out yours needs it longer, order from Swansons, they have good ones at a good price.
New to the forum.
Just got a 3 and half month old german shepherd/rotti mix from a local animal rescue.
I’ve been reading this forum the past few days trying to find the best food to buy our little guy (trying out some Wellness Core Puppy and Avoderm Rotating Menu – Trout and Peas), but for the past two days he won’t eat any kibble.
I also got him a few cans to top of the kibble and he will eat that. It looks like he doesn’t chew his kibble when eats it and then he ends up throwing it up (I assume because its upsetting his digestive system). He seems totally normal and not sick at all, just won’t eat the kibble and when he does he doesn’t chew and usually yacks later.
So, since he eats the wet and has no problem with it, what would be the best wet food to give him while we slowly ween him onto kibble again?
I want a wet food that would meet Hound Dog Mom’s recommendations for the dry food (i.e. a good calcium/phosphorus ratio). He’s going to be a big boy, so I want to make sure he’s getting what he needs to avoid joint/growing issues.
Thanks!!!
Nick
RMBs have meat on them, that’s the M part. That’s also why I don’t feed them every day(even though I don’t have large breed dogs anymore, I’m still paranoid), you can afford to have 20% of your meals unbalanced, if you don’t get the calcium exactly right. Remember also that bones are not 100% calcium.
Now since I have a large breed dog though don’t I have to watch out for how much bone I put in there? I thought I needed more boneless meat then I would bone? Bone only accounts for 10% and meat accounts for 80% and organs another 10%. This is all very confusing.
Sometimes you can educate your vet. Bring in paperwork give list of sources ect. and hope they are open to learning something new that they probably didn’t teach them in school.
They could have been brain washed so to speak like many other people out there. Sometimes they just need a push in the right direction. I talked to my vet about feeding raw, at first she was not really all that happy with my decision but I explained myself and some of the little knowledge I knew of it. It helped let her know that I knew what I was doing (sort of haha) and had done my homework on it extensively before deciding to do it. I can’t say she is still a big fan of a raw diet but we have come to an understanding. I would still use her for ailments and shots and such.
Now there was one orthopedic vet that I actually got into a little bit of an argument with due to my kibble choice at that time. She to recommended all those cruddy brands. When I started talking to her about calcium levels due to him being a large breed dog it was like she was disgusted that I would even do such a thing. I began to explain myself and the research I had done and I could tell I wasn’t getting threw to her and she wasn’t understanding me. She kept pushing and telling me I wasn’t doing good for my dog and it would hurt him in later years. I would never use that place ever again due to her reaction.
All in all, don’t believe everything your vet tells you, do your own research before saying yes to things like unneeded shots and such.
Wallyworld,
Vital Essentials has freeze dried nibblets. They are small from pea to macadamia nut size. And they would count as food so no wasted calories on snacks.
I would give a half dose daily or a full dose every other day.
And for training, I bake chicken breasts and chop them up into bite size pieces and freeze in ziplock bags. You can bake them just like you would for people minus the spices or you can put them on low heat and bake longer so they are dryer or even until they are completely dry. Mine like them best cooked the people way, so I just ignore the mess my fingers end up with and bring wipes for when we’re done. You can do this with any low fat meat.
Sorry for all the questions…
I just bought the Swanson’s Ultra Soil Based Organisms. Yay! So excited. I just don’t know the correct dose to give to my puppy. The human suggested dose is 1 capsule per day. My puppy is 25 lb. 13 weeks old… On the bigger side. I think I’ll be able to break the capsules open and feed half doses if necessary.
My second question is about treats. We will be starting puppy classes soon and he will be getting lots of treats. We’ve been using Zukes but not sure how he does on them with all of his stomach issues lately. Is there a treat that can be fed often for training but don’t have to worry about giving too much, adding too many nutrients to overall diet etc.?
Thanks for all of the advice. It is a blessing to have somewhere to turn for questions like these.
I use the Swansons probiotic. Nice product, nice price. I also use their joint supplement, thanks to HDM
Thanks HDM and Pattyvaughn!
Saireah,
I am currently feeding Fromms gold large breed puppy. Love the company and quality. My pup has been having some gastro issues though and I am probably going to switch brands (unfortunately).
Hi Swissy Mix
Ignore your husband or slap his hand away from the food and dog treats, whichever applies. It is vital to keep giant breeds on the light side while they are still growing. You absolutely do not want him growing fast or having big growth spurts. I wish I could tell you a particular number of calories, but it varies breed to breed and dog to dog. Feed him enough that he is keeping muscle tone on the backs of his thighs, but so that he stays thin, thin enough that you can easily feel his ribs with your finger tips, until he is two years old.
Hi Swissy Mix –
All dogs are different so no one can really say how much your pup should eat. Feed whatever amount keeps him in optimal body condition – lean, with a visible stomach tuck, ribs easily felt but not protruding.
Hi wallyworld –
If you’re referring to Swanson’s Soil-Based Organisms probiotic supplement, there is such a small amount of the trace nutrient (225 mg.) that I wouldn’t be concerned – there’s maybe 2 – 3 mg. of each of the trace nutrients. If you’re referring to Dr. STephen Langer’s Ultimate 15 Strain Probiotic with FOS – that contains even less (only 12.5 mg.) which would amount to almost nothing. If you want more detail on the trace nutrient component it’s sold as a separate supplement called “ConcenTrace” – it’s naturally derived from sea water and contains minerals such as lithium, boron, sulfate, etc. (all in very trace amounts).
Wallyworld
Swanson’s is good. Trippett has a calcium/phosphorus ratio of 1:1 so will actually help keep your calcium where you want it to be.
Saireah
I’m glad to hear everyone is doing so well. Grains are definitely a problem for some dogs, but they are definitely not a problem for others. You will know if it’s working or not for your dogs.
How much should I be feeding my Bernese/GSMD mix puppy? My husband thinks we need to feed him more; I say he’s fine. He’s about 50 lbs and 5 months. He’s not overweight, and his vet and dog trainer say he looks good. He’s on Victor’s Lamb & Rice, and he gets 2 cups twice a day. (He’s on Victor because that’s what the breeder fed him. We’re thinking of switching him, but we haven’t decided which one yet.) Is there a certain calorie count for extra large breed puppies I need to calculate to make sure he’s getting enough? Like he should have XX of calories a day, or something like that?
My JRT is more prone to build up than any of my other dogs has ever been(all medium/large dogs). Raw meaty bones are keeping any issues in check enough that I scrape off a little every 6 months or so, but other than the professional teeth cleaning she got when I got her, she has not had another real teeth cleaning and hasn’t needed one. She used to have it done every year before I got her. I feed chicken necks, turkey necks, or some kind of ribs every third day. I think it is an issue of their teeth not changing in size as much as they did when they were bred down so much. Their teeth don’t line up quite the way they should. This is especially noticable in brachycephalic breeds. And it’s also a problem in miniature horses(I’m NOT brushing Smokey’s teeth, nor am I feeding him RMBs).
I posted earlier in this thread regarding our new foster puppy (then failed foster puppy) Riggs… he’s now six months old and doing great. I have been feeding him Fromm’s Large Breed Puppy Gold. He’s been flourishing on it and it’s a great price in my area ($49 for a 33lb bag). It took me a bit to swallow that it’s only a 4 star food because it is grain inclusive, but my 2 year old lab/vizsla mix has been doing so much better since I took her off of grain-free food. I have her on the Adult Gold and chose the Large Breed Puppy Gold so I could do Fromm’s buy-12-get-13th-free This is strange, I know, and I’m in no way advocating switching to grain-inclusive – it just seemed as if grain-free was too rich for her.
I wanted to throw the option of Fromm’s Large Breed Puppy Gold out there to everyone as an alternative if you’re a bit concerned about budget. What was interesting to me is that it has less calcium than Fromm’s GF Game Bird Recipe. It does have a bit less protein, but I think it looks pretty good when I did my original research on it. Feel free to correct me, though. 🙂
And their Large Breed Puppy Gold bags currently have incorrect feeding guidelines on them due to some regulatory issues, but if you e-mail Fromm’s customer service, they will send you a document with the proper guidelines.
I should note that, once Riggs turns a year old, I am going to try and transition them both to a grain-free Fromm’s 4 Star line and see how Quinn does again. But, for the year in which he is literally inhaling his food, I had to be a bit budget-minded. 🙂
Thanks HDM!
I started looking at price. The wholistic doesn’t really have enough strains in it. The Mercola is expensive. Swanson’s looks good but lists 72 trace minerals that are added in (doesn’t list individually). Do you think I need to be wary of the calcium levels if I am going to use Swansons? It’s much much cheaper.
That sounds like a great menu for a large breed puppy! My dogs love Tripett and Grandma Lucy’s. Raw green tripe is naturally rich in probiotics and enzymes however they are destroyed in the canning process, so if you want your pup to have the benefits of probiotics and enzymes it will be necessary to supplement separately.
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to know if all think the following would be too much for a large breed puppy?
Quality kibble from HDM’s list
Mix with Trippett or mix with Grandma Lucy’s pureformance
Add wholistic pets digest all plus – pre/probiotic and enzymes
Would I need the probiotics if I am already adding Trippett?
Thanks in advance for your time and feedback.
HDM – Thank you so much for your response! I just needed to check and make sure that a regular puppy food was indeed okay…. I have always wondered why not feed a higher fat/calorie food to a large breed puppy and then just feed less of it. In so doing, wouldn’t you reduce the overall calcium intake?
A giant breed puppy seems to need quite a bit of food to maintain even a very lean frame ( at least our boy does!) and it seems self -defeating to choose a food with low calcium but also low fat/calorie and then have to feed a larger quantity daily.
Thank you again for your time… it is so helpful to be able to ask questions to someone is is so knowledgeable. Hopefully our puppy will be content with eating the Wellness Core Puppy for a long time and I won’t have to struggle with this difficult decision again for quite a while!
Hi newsaintowner –
Never be embarrassed to ask questions! 🙂
Yes, according to the calcium levels provided to me by Wellness, the Wellness CORE puppy formula is acceptable for large breed puppies. Feed the amount that keeps your pup in optimal body condition – with a Saint you’ll likely need to be adjusting portions pretty frequently for the first year as they grow quickly. Also, despite their size Saints don’t typically have high energy (calorie) requirements. I have two friends with Saints – both of their Saints (~180 lbs.) eat less then my hounds (70 lbs. – 110 lbs.). A lot of the giant bulky breeds like Saints tend to have slow metabolisms so you’re going to have to watch the weight carefully. I understand the concern over foods being labeled “large breed” and foods only being labeled “puppy.” From my experience contacting companies to determine the appropriateness of their formulas for growing large breed puppies, I found that a “large breed” puppy formula is no more likely to be appropriate for large breed growth than a regular “puppy formula” or “all life stages” formula. In fact, you’ll notice not one “large breed puppy” formula made my list. This is because every 4 or 5 star grain-free large breed puppy formula I found had excessive levels of calcium. What I was seeing is that companies were merely reducing the fat, calorie and protein levels in their large breed formula and the calcium levels were often the same or more than in their regular puppy or all life stages formulas! Based on current research it is known that fat and protein have no effect on the incidence of developmental orthopedic disease in large/giant breed puppies and that calcium does. Calories only have an effect on developmental orthopedic disease if they are consumed in excess (i.e. the puppy is allowed to be overweight) – this doesn’t mean that large/giant breed puppies need reduced calorie foods, it merely means their portions need to be controlled. So in short, in order to limited your pup’s chances of developing an orthopedic condition, feed appropriate levels of calcium, keep your pup in optimal body condition and avoid strenuous and high impact activities until your pup is fully grown (24 months of age for a Saint). Good luck with the new pup and don’t be afraid to come back if you have any more questions!
Hi there –
I am a new member, but I have been eavesdropping for weeks! I can’t tell you how invaluable all the great information here has been to me, especially your posts, HDM… Thank you so much!! We have a seventeen week Saint Bernard puppy who is very particular about what he will eat. He seems to really like a food, and then he will gradually become less and less enthusiastic until he flat-out quits eating.
To get to the point, my question is regarding Wellness Core puppy food. I bought a small bag and our puppy seems to like it ( at least for now!). I know this is on your list of acceptable grain free foods, HDM, but I just wanted to confirm that it is indeed safe to feed, despite the fact that it is not labeled “large breed”. I am assuming that I can compensate for the higher fat and calories by feeding less food and just watching our pup’s overall condition.
I am a bit embarrassed to even ask, but I just had to double check with you, HDM, because of all the dire warnings about feeding a large breed puppy regular puppy food. I am assuming these warnings all are directed at the calcium levels. Thank you for you time and for all the great information!
I feed all my dogs, including an 11 yr old, All Life Stages foods which are puppy and every other age foods. I feel they are better quality than Adult foods.
I have a puppy that can’t handle grains in his diet, so I know first hand that feeding grain free is just fine for puppies. I’ve heard all kinds of mixed answers too, but the things people say against feeding high protein are based on old research that was proved both faulty and false. Unfortunately, old wives tales are difficult to kill.
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for all of the great info on this forum. I have a 12 week old Goldendoodle. He is estimated to be around 65 to 70 lbs. I have driven myself crazy trying to find the best puppy food to feed him. I finally chose Fromm Gold large breed puppy as I was comfortable with the ingredients and the levels of calcium/phosphorus were low. He has been sick the past week, vet has him on a bland diet. I fear the issue might be his food and am preparing to switch if needed. I know HDM has a great list for food, but wanted everyone’s opinion on 2 things. 1. Is it ok to feed large breed puppy a non puppy food?
2. Is it ok to feed puppy a grain free diet?
I have been getting mixed answers from my research and don’t know what to do. Help!!
Hi jayjacobs –
As a fellow large breed owner I can tell you that large breed dogs do not need low protein foods. I have three bloodhoubds ranging in size from 68 lbs. to 110 lbs. and ranging in age from 9 months to 8 years and they all eat 45% – 55% protein at every meal. I would never feed my dogs a food that low in protein. I suggest picking another 4 or 5 star food with at least 30% protein. It’s also better to rotate brands – it provides your dog with variety and in case of a recall you’ll have other brands you know you can use.
I have a 5 year old great dane. He has been on Innova Large Breed Adult dry food. As you know the brand has been recalled. Now I need a quality replacement. What do you suggest? I read that great danes need a protein less than 24% and a fat content of 12-14%..not sure how accurate this is for an adult great dane.
Innova was:
Protein-25%
fat-14%
calcium.6%
What would you suggest?
Thanks Jay
Hello,
I started my dog on Acana puppy large breed (5 stars rated, 55% meat) and I’m very pleased with it. However, a dog trainer I know, recently told me that because we feed smaller amount in rich quality dog foods, while this amount is enough for the physical needs of the dog, it doesn’t fill the dog’s belly, so the dog doesn’t feel full. And I can not add more food to the daily amount, because then the dog will gain weight.
What do you think about it? I want to feed my dog quality food, but I don’t want him to be hungry all the time… I now feed him 150g less then in his former food ( it’s 400g per day, and he’s 25 kg, but in the adult food it’s less then that). Is there anyway of knowing if a dog is really hungry?
I’d be happy to hear any thought or opinions from anyone!
Thank you.
First, go here and read /forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/
There is a google doc in there that Hound Dog Mom posted. She did a ton of research of which foods actually have the appropriate amount of calcium for large breeds. A lot of the so called large breed foods really are not ok for large breed puppies. They were formulated from old bad research that has since been disproven. Pick a few foods from her list and rotate through them, it’s ok to give your other dog the same food. Rotating foods is healthier for your dog, just like people should eat a variety of foods for optimal health, dogs should too.
I have been feeding my 7 yr old lab TOTW Pacific Stream for a year now. He does great on it….wonderful coat, healthy…does have some gas. I just got a new lab puppy. i read the ingredients on the TOTW regular and puppy formula and the ingredients are pretty close to the same. Should I feed her (the pup) the puppy food or is the regular okay? Also, I was trying to find a food that was a little less expensive and have friends that feed their labs BB food. Are they comparable? And, none of the premium foods have “large breed” puppy food that I have seen in Science Diet, Iams, etc. Does it make a difference? I know there are several questions within this post, but just really need guidance to feed my kids. Thanks!
I am considering switching my 15 year old lab/shepherd mix’s dog food. I am currently feeding Royal Canin Hypoallergenic Selected Protein Large Breed Adult PW prescription diet. It is a potato (white potato) and white fish (herring) limited ingredient diet. The reason that I am looking to switch is due to cost. The price has been increasing on and off for the last 3 years and the last time I picked up a bag from my vet it was nearly $106.00 for a 26.4 lb bag, one month ago it was $98.00. She has been on a prescription diet since she was only 5 years old and has had many health problems so I have reservations about switching. She has inflammatory bowel disease and heart disease. Specifically she has an enlarged heart, leaking mitral valve and leaking tricuspid valve. She also had pancreatitis three times in her earlier years. She is on an ACE inhibitor and diuretic for her heart (Enalapril and Furosemide). The prescription diet is for her IBD and not her heart.
What I am looking for is a food with a fish based protein source. I would like to keep her on herring but I am not finding many OTC foods that have herring and after reading about the California Natural recall that one no longer a choice for us.
I have some questions about the fish and potato sources.
How big of a difference would it be to switch her from herring to a different fish like salmon? Would it make a big difference if the potato source is sweet potato vs. white potato?
Would it make a big difference if she has been eating a food with only one fish source and I switch her to a food that contains many different fish sources like Orijen’s 6 Fish formula?
Lastly, her current food does not have any Omega 3 or 6 added and my vet has advised against giving her Omega 3 supplements due to her IBD and pancreatitis in the past, therefor would it pose problems if I switch her to a food that has added Omega’s in addition to the fish source?
The brands I am currently researching are Evo, Orijen, Wellness, Canine Caviar, Innova Prime, Fromm, Diamond Naturals or Earthborn Holistic. Do any of these brands stand out in a nutritional aspect more than others? Are there any other brands with a fish formula that I am missing that may be an option for her?
I am sorry this is so long. Any help at all would be so very much appreciated!
Thank You,
Tonya
Thank you all! This advice is very helpful — also, the “large breed puppy” spreadsheet is fantastic.
I’m just going to add to your OCD, sorry. Hound Dog Mom has done a wonderful service for owners of large breed dogs and researched calcium levels on grain free foods. Your vizsla may or may not be considered a large breed because the breed is borderline with females usually smaller and males right at the weight to be considered large breed, so to be safe I would feed as if you know he is going to be large, which means watching calcium levels. Many foods that are labeled for large breeds still have calcium levels that are too high. Here is HDMs thread about large breed nutrition, in it is her list of foods with appropriate calcium levels:
/forums/topic/large-and-giant-breed-puppy-nutrition/
I recently weaned my 8 year old Belgian Malinois onto Blue Buffalo. I have had her since she was 7 wks. old. I know that there were some issues starting to crop up lately but couldn’t find anything concrete to substantiate them. Some people said that their dogs were getting sick, loose stools, etc. My girl has not seemed to have any problems but I am still concerned about keeping her on Blue. Any advice/suggestions? She is a rescue from a breeder that recommended Pro-Plan Large Breed and that is what I fed her (with some rare exceptions having had to mix with other dry foods) She is very active only when out in our yard but is usually taking it easy when in the house. I am so confused about what is best for her at this stage in her life and worried about so many recalls and problems with Dog food lately.
Thank you so much for the information. My thoughts were good ingredients but high calorie count for less feed (= less poo). If any dog needs to poo less… it would be a dane!!
I’ll keep comparing … I just wanted to hear it from someone with more knowledge than I that I’m not missing anything about “large breeds” and nutrition.
Thanks again 🙂
Hi turtlemom –
Large breed dogs don’t need anything different than any other sized dog once they’re adults. In fact, most “large breed” specific foods are reduced protein and fat and contain less meat than the non-large breed foods – not a good thing! Just look for a quality budget friendly food. Some budget friendly grain-free foods: Earthborn, Victor, NutriSource, Dr. Tim’s. Some budget friendly grain-inclusive formulas: Victor, Native Performance, Healthwise, Pro Pac, Eagle Pack, Whole Earth Farms, NutriSource, Dr. Tim’s. All of these foods are rated at least 4 stars. Native Performance, Dr. Tim’s, Pro Pac, Victor (Hi-Pro formulas) and NutriSource (performance formulas) are pretty calorie-dense. Also keep in mind bag size and calorie content when comparing. Some performance formulas have around 600 kcal. per cup and are much cheaper to feed than most foods even if the cost per pound is similar.
I have a couple Great Danes. I am always researching food and comparing dry kibble labels. They were on Blue Buffalo but my local store went up on the price to 65 bucks a bag I had to re evaluate my budget for dog food. I went to a crap food and they are eating twice as much so the search is on for a good food again. I loved Blue Buffalo but is there a better dry food out there????
I’d love a high calorie food so they don’t have to eat as much (less poo)
I’d love glucosamine and Chondroitin and Omega’s
What is a great dog food for Danes? I’d love to eventually do a raw natural diet….. but that is for another research day 🙂
Oh and sorry if this is already answered … I tried to search but only found large breed puppy info.
Thanks !
Hi jlake88 –
No one can really tell you for sure if the calorie count is too low to too high because calorie requirements can vary drastically from dog to dog based on factors such as the obvious size and activity level, but also lean body mass, stress level, age, whether or not the dog is spayed or neutered, environment, breed, etc. For example, I have a 110 lb. unaltered 7 yo. male and a 8 mo. 70 lb. altered female that are both currently eating 2,500 kcal. per day and then I have a 2 yo. 68 lb. altered female that is eating 2,700 kcal. per day. All three are the same breed, kept in the same conditions and have roughly the same activity level. It would seem that my large unaltered male or my growing pup would need more calories than my spayed adult, but that’s not the case – I recently had to bump her intake up because she started to lose weight she didn’t need to be losing.
What you need to do is closely monitor your dog’s weight. If he starts dropping pounds really quickly – feed him more. If he’s not losing at all – feed him less. I’d say that he should lose no more than 1 – 2 lbs. per week, if he’s losing more than that it’s too quick. A good general recommendation is to feed him the amount recommended on the bag for what he should weight – not what he does weigh (although that’s just a guideline).
Another thing to look into – although I understand it can be a little pricey for large dogs – is a dehydrated or canned food. Not only are dehydrated and canned foods healthier than dry foods (more protein, more moisture, less processed, less carbs), but (due to high moisture content) they are much less calorie-dense so your dog can eat a higher volume of food. I think they’re great for weight loss. For example – on average most kibbles have roughly 400 kcal. per cup; most dehydrated foods have around 500 kcal. per cup but they are re-hydrated with around 1 1/2 C. water bringing that calorie count to 500 kcal. per 2 1/2 C. or 200 kcal. per C.; most canned foods have around 400 kcal. per standard 13.2 oz. can which equates to about 250 kcal. per C. Just some options to consider!
Remember, ultimately, weight loss is about calories in and calories out. If he’s consuming more calories than he’s burning he will not lose weight no matter how little it seems like he’s eating and if he’s burning more calories than he’s consuming he will lose weight. If he’s not losing he’s eating too many calories and intake needs to be decreased and/or exercise needs to be increased.
Good luck! 🙂
I have 3 dobies between the ages of 1 to 2 years old. I have been feeding Blue Buffalo Life Protection Large Breed. To date we have had no problems but wondered what other foods you may be feeding to your active adult dobies?
I need to switch my dogs to a budget friendlier food. I have an 85 lb lab who needs grain free food & a 105 lb rottie with hip dysplasia (13 months old). They’ve been on Blue Buffalo Wilderness Large Breed formula but I just changed jobs & took a huge pay but (but even bigger happiness raise) so I need to find something more affordable.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
Thank you!
Holly, Brody (the rottasaurus) & Faith (the golden child)
Hi HDM: Thanks for your response and all the research you’ve done. I’ve ordered Swanson Mobility one of the supplements on your list and it has boswellia in it. I’m also switching to Earthborn Holistic since its time for some rotation anyway. I can’t get into the Vet until the end of the month. We walk every nite but most of his discomfort seems to come after a trip to the doggie park but he enjoys it so much I hate to take it away from him.
Ok, guys. I’m back. I had switched my Doberman puppy from Blue Buffalo Large Breed Puppy to Earthborn Holistics MeadowFeast because the Blue Buffalo was giving her diarrhea and now the Earthborn is doing the same thing. I want to feed her a 5 star food within the same price range that does not give her the poops! Any suggestions? I need to make a decision soon because I’m getting low on the bag I have and I’ll need enough to transition properly. Someone mentioned to me that they could have too much protein for her?
Thanks so much for your quick response! I’ll definitely look into Trippett. Maybe once things settle down a bit I’ll be able to get him a variety of canned foods for toppers.
Thank you for your advice. I’ll do my best to judge what he needs and if I’m wrong I’ll try and catch it early. 🙂
Hi August –
I like Tripett for a canned topper for large breed puppies – it’s pure canned green tripe (so it’s only for a topper, not a balanced meal). Green tripe naturally has a balanced calcium to phosphorus ratio but it has a very low concentration of both minerals. However, if you’re only using a small amount of canned food as a topper I wouldn’t worry about the calcium levels.
It’s really tough to recommend an amount to feed as energy requirements can vary drastically from dog to dog. The feeding guide on the bag would be a good place to start but keep in mind it’s only a starting point. Some dogs will need much more than what’s recommended on the feeding guide and others will need much less. You’ll need to assess your pup’s weight regularly and adjust his portions accordingly to ensure he maintains optimum body condition. He’ll be growing quickly and for the first 8 months or so you’ll find that you’ll need to adjust portions frequently.
Hello
I just want to say a huge thank you to Hound Dog Mom for all the work she’s put into this research. While our family has had dogs growing up (and we still have two lovely cuddlers) I am going to be getting a puppy of my own in 2 weeks. He will be a 9 week old black lab/great dane mix and I’m really excited.
From what I’ve seen on the forums here I’m planning on rotating between 2 different dry foods with some canned for breakfast and dinner. Using HDM’s list I’ve decided the first food will be Kirkland Signature Nature’s Domain: Salmon because I know I can get it at our local Costco for $35 and it got 4 stars. I’ll choose another food to rotate from the list once I find out what we have in town.
My question is this: Should I factor in the calcium and protein levels of the canned food on top of the dry food? It seems pretty self-explanatory, I know, but I’m a new dog mom and I really want to get this right!
Second question: Does anyone have any recommendations for the amount I should be feeding? I’ll go through this topic again after I post to make sure I didn’t miss anything. This is the first time I’ve had responsibility for another being and I desperately want to make sure I don’t overfeed. Right now I’m planning three feedings a day with breakfast and dinner having canned food on the dry and the noon feeding being used mostly for training purposes.
Any advice welcome!
Hi BakersMom –
Unfortunately, if he has hip dysplasia there’s no reversing it. At 11 months old he’s already been through his critical growth phase and reducing calcium levels won’t help. Not feeding a puppy formula wouldn’t have caused this – but all of Taste of the Wild’s formulas are technically “puppy” formulas anyways (they’ve all met the AAFCO nutrient profiles for all life stages). A variety of factors are involved in the development of hip dysplasia – genetics (probably the biggest factor), over feeding, calcium intake during the critical growth phase (about the first 6 months), activity level (high impact activity during growth can cause hip dysplasia) and probably numerous other factors we aren’t yet aware of. If you do find out your pup has hip dysplasia it’s not the end of the world, there are several actions you can take to help him live a long and comfortable life. If the dysplasia is severe, your vet may recommend surgery – most orthopedic surgeries have a high success rate. Surgery is expensive, but if the dysplasia is severe it will be cheaper to get surgery rather than pay for expensive supplements and medications for the rest of his life. If the dysplasia is more mild, often the deterioration of the joint can be slowed by supplementing with GAGs and pain and inflammation can be controlled with natural supplements such as boswellia, turmeric, omega 3’s, white willow, yucca, tart cherry, etc. It will also be important to keep him active so the muscles around his hip stay strong, making the hip less likely to luxate. Low impact activities like walking and swimming are great for dogs with joint problems. Human supplements are generally cheaper than pet-specific supplements – I would recommend going for something with glucosamine, chondroitin and MSM and also supplementing with an anti-inflammatory such as turmeric or boswellia. Adjust the human dose depending on his weight – for example give a 25 lb. dog 1/4 the recommended human dose, a 50 lb. dog 1/2 the recommended human dose, etc. Give twice the recommended dose for the first two weeks and if you see improvement reduce the dose to half and discontinue the supplement for two consecutive days each week to help keep him from building a tolerance to the ingredients.
This group might be able to hook you up with local resources:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CarnivoreFeed-Supplier
and also the BARF yahoo group as well. Raw feeders post all the time for group orders. Someone wants to put a large HareToday order currently and last month a group ordered from Iowa (Medford Meats?)
4 months ago
