[Haley H]

Hi everyone!
This is my first post, but I’ve been a constant on this page for quite sometime. I have a malamute baby coming home to me this July and I want to give him the absolute best!!

I’ve found a great local-ish supplier of green tripe, raw hooves, and all sorts of cow bits. I was all about tracheas and gullets until I read the study that links thyroidtoxosis to feeding gullets/trachea with thyroid tissues present. I asked my supplier if their raw tracheas and gullets had thyroid gland on them, they assured me that their sources removed thyroid glands beforehand.

I’ve looked all around the Internet, to no avail…I’m fairly certain the entire feeding of gullet is out…too close to the thyroid glands, however do you think the trachea, sans thyroid tissue, is safe to feed???

I was planning on using the fresh or dehydrated tracheas to serve part of my puppy’s meals in. I’m a huge fan of Dr. Ian Dunbar’s positive reinforcement methods, and also his idea to allow the dog the opportunity to work for their food…something crucial to all working breeds imho. So I was going to use both forms of trachea, filled kongs, and stuffed raw horns, hooves, and bones instead of using a bowl at all for food. I know this is another topic altogether, but I’m curious to hear what everyone here thinks.

I was planning to do a 25/75 kibble/RF plan, where his kibbles are fed in the morning, his midday and evening feeding being raw, with kibble occasionally used as training reinforcement. I have read lots of the opinions on combining RF and kibble, but a study done (I’ll share the link here), shows via x ray, that the rate of digestion largely has no effect on a dog when it comes to raw versus libble, being that raw food actually takes longer to digest because the dog’s body is working to utilize ALL goodness.
LINK: https://therawfeedingcommunity.com/2015/01/08/digest-this-kibble-may-actually-digest-faster-than-raw/

I may transition him completely to raw by age 2, but I’m not entirely willing to risk messing up his joints or growth feeding strictly raw from the time I get him (which will be 8 weeks)

I’m super excited to be here, obsessed with canine nutrition, and eager to talk to someone who can follow what I’m thinking about right now…no one in my life really cares much for my research and pontificating. LOL.

[Jen T]

Hi all, I have a Westie who is 9 years old and has issues with yeast infections due to environmental allergies. I’ve removed her kibble (turkey and potatoes) and all treats and I am trying out a Westie Diet recipe called Dan’s Highlander Hash which calls for: ½ pound ground turkey or salmon or tilapia, 1 raw carrot (substitute with celery stalk), 1 raw zucchini, 1 raw yellow squash, 1 medium apple – granny smith, and 2 Tbsps chopped fresh parsley. I usually double the serving size to last for 2.5 days (she gets 4 small meals each day about 5 ounces).

Instead of turkey, I’m using salmon and baking it until it’s at least 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Is it safe to keep giving her this meal every day for two weeks? In addition to this meal, I add 1 capusle of Gentle Digest (prebiotic and probiotic) as well as 1/8 teaspoon of turmeric per day. I read salmon should be given periodically but since I’m leaving on vacation in a few days, I don’t want to dramatically change her diet with the pet sitter. Any advice?

[Debbie G]

After reading Dogfoodadvisor, I now have my 11 yr old 91 lb lab on Orijen senior food and my 12 week old 15 lb puppy (have no idea what breed) on the Orijen puppy food. I was in a pet store and the were trying sell me on feeding them raw food and said that dry kibble is hard on the dog’s kidneys and actually worse for their teeth since the starch turns to sugar on their teeth and that’s what creates plaque! Since I wasn’t sold on switching food brands again, they convinced me to buy a carton of raw goat’s milk to add to their dry food. They said dry food should be soaked in a liquid (even if it’s only water) because then it’ll expand the food before the dogs ingest it. I saw that the Orijen dry food didnt expand at all (which I’m thinking is good?) I’t’s expensive and I want to know if this is just a new thing to sell to customers.

[Coonhound Mama]

Hi Zoe,

They all vary by a bit in chewiness. Some are kind of a hard crunch (lamb trachea, pig ears and chicken feet) while others are more like jerky (the fish and pork tenderloin pieces). What I like about these though is they all retain some bit of moisture and aren’t entirely dry. I keep them in the fridge so they’ll keep longer and rehydrate them to add to my raw grinds as toppers. I can’t stress enough how much better these air dried treats are than the air dried stuff you can get in bulk bins in big box stores. Amazing quality!
Definitely recommend.

[alexis w]

thanks for that information @Shawna and @ZoeC ! that does make me feel better about giving my Callie the raw bones. On a different topic, I just was given some information that worries me considering I use kale in a lot of my homemade dog food recipes, https://www.mspca.org/angell_services/human-foods-to-avoid-feeding-to-your-dog/
a close friend of mine was looking out for me and let me know about this, I looked into it further and found it to be accurate information. I am currently in the process of modifying all of my dog food recipes to reflect this new information.

[Coonhound Mama]

Lauri G:

We’ve added lamb trachea to our rotation of whole prey treats- about one per week so as not to overdo (moderation for all things!) She doesn’t seem to have a problem with them so far. I’m not one for plugging links and businesses very often, but I thought I’d take the time to share this raw fed dog equivalent to the Bark Box subscription box! We’ve been getting one box a month of air dried species appropriate treats and they’re all human grade meats. Definitely worth a look if you’re interested in a variety of proteins to give as treats. Currently we’re doing lamb trachea, beef kidney, chicken feet, dehydrated pork loin and dried whole sardines 🙂

https://realpetfood.com/

[anonymously]

“In regards to raw bones I am too lazy to teach my dog how to chew them so I just use a blender and do a fine ground either using small raw pork rib meat bones, raw chicken feet, and recently I added raw duck necks”.

“So no concern for blockage or death”

Ground up raw bone is what caused my dog to have a blockage (x2) I saw the x-rays, looked like gravel in the stomach and colon, it hardened and caused pain and discomfort for several days, Just lucky surgery wasn’t needed. I gave my meat grinder to the Goodwill.

“You also changed the list of dangers in the report from the original:”

Incorrect, I listed the source of what I posted right above it:

Also: Give a Dog a Bone (Not!)–FDA warns of dangers of feeding bones to dogs http://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm208365.htm?s_cid=w_c_PetHealth_cont_001
http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=bones excerpt below:

1.Broken teeth. This may call for expensive veterinary dentistry.
2.Mouth or tongue injuries. These can be very bloody and messy and may require a trip to see your veterinarian.
3.Bone gets looped around your dog’s lower jaw. This can be frightening or painful for your dog and potentially costly to you, as it usually means a trip to see your veterinarian.
4.Bone gets stuck in esophagus, the tube that food travels through to reach the stomach. Your dog may gag, trying to bring the bone back up, and will need to see your veterinarian.
5.Bone gets stuck in windpipe. This may happen if your dog accidentally inhales a small enough piece of bone. This is an emergency because your dog will have trouble breathing. Get your pet to your veterinarian immediately!
6.Bone gets stuck in stomach. It went down just fine, but the bone may be too big to pass out of the stomach and into the intestines. Depending on the bone’s size, your dog may need surgery or upper gastrointestinal endoscopy, a procedure in which your veterinarian uses a long tube with a built-in camera and grabbing tools to try to remove the stuck bone from the stomach.
7.Bone gets stuck in intestines and causes a blockage. It may be time for surgery.
8.Constipation due to bone fragments. Your dog may have a hard time passing the bone fragments because they’re very sharp and they scrape the inside of the large intestine or rectum as they move along. This causes severe pain and may require a visit to your veterinarian.
9.Severe bleeding from the rectum. This is very messy and can be dangerous. It’s time for a trip to see your veterinarian.
10.Peritonitis. This nasty, difficult-to-treat bacterial infection of the abdomen is caused when bone fragments poke holes in your dog’s stomach or intestines. Your dog needs an emergency visit to your veterinarian because peritonitis can kill your dog.

[Cannoli]

In regards to raw bones I am too lazy to teach my dog how to chew them so I just use a blender and do a fine ground either using small raw pork rib meat bones, raw chicken feet, and recently I added raw duck necks.

So no concern for blockage or death

• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Cannoli.

[alexis w]

to the person who said my foods are not balanced, that is why i recommend a supplement with each recipe, and i know dogs need calcium, i use ground egg shells like stated previously. the raw meaty bones would be an add on.

[Pam M]

I just started BCR today. My 14 week old shih-tzu, Brody, has been having a terrible time. I had him on Petcurean, no soy, no grain, no eggs and no chicken. This was my third food as I started out with what the breeder was using, but he’s been chewing his paws and having a terrible time. I had my last dog on raw food, and like most owners, it was out of necessity. I’m hoping this will settle things down. If I have a positive outcome I’ll be sure to post with the results.

[Cannoli]

Home cooked meals require calcium just like raw meals.

Besides bones and eggshells you can get calcium from seaweed. I prefer the calcium from seaweed because in addition to calcium seaweed also gives you the following minerals:

Magnesium
Sulfur
Potassium
Phosphorus
Sodium
Zinc
Iodine
Selenium

• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Cannoli.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Cannoli.

[theBCnut]

Hi Marie

Dogs eating home cooked meals have the same requirements for calcium that raw fed dogs have. Obviously, you don’t want to give cooked bones, so the calcium has to be raw bones or come from other sources.

[InkedMarie]

I’ll repeat my question: for the regulars, do homecooked need bone in it?
For Alexis: dogs need calcium. A raw meaty bone, unless they consume the bone, isn’t going to do it.

I think your diets are not balanced….if they are not, you’ve got a blog and people may think they are. Hoping someone who knows will answer.

[anonymously]

It’s funny, because I am a vegetarian. But I am sure the people at the local market think I am a meat eater because I always buy chicken, ground turkey, lean meat from the reduced price section…..no problems yet, if it’s organic all the better. I freeze it first too. But I cook it up, the raw thing didn’t work out for my dogs. Actually I thought it was gross.
They do enjoy scrambled egg here and there….I won’t eat it though.

[anonymously]

In response to the above post, are you a veterinarian? If not, you may want to be more careful about how you express your opinions. You may not know as much as you think you do.
It is one thing to offer an opinion, but opinion is not fact.

Raw meaty bones caused me at least 3 visits to the emergency vet with more than one dog.

“First do no harm”

[alexis w]

I am going to start supplementing with pre frozen(to kill the germs) raw meaty bones. you never want to give dogs cooked bones. if you prefer you can used crushed eggshell to give the calcium needed

[anonymously]

Regarding raw diets: http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/nutrition/

[anonymously]

Consider making an appointment with a dermatologist:

By Klaus Loft, DVM
Angell Dermatology Service

Anyone who suffers debilitating environmental allergies tied to changing seasons, pet dander or household dust mites knows first-hand the misery of a scratchy throat, itchy eyes or painful rashes.

Not everyone knows, however, that our pets can experience similar allergic reactions — and other very bothersome dermatological issues. But our pets need not suffer in silence. Modern veterinary science has evolved such that advanced, comprehensive treatments are now available to treat a range of skin conditions.

Top pet dermatological issues

Our four-legged friends suffer from some of the same skin issues as we do — and several that we do not. The most common conditions we see at Angell include:

•Parasites, such as mites, fleas and mange (scabies)
•Infectious diseases, such as Staphylococcal pyoderma (“Staph”) skin infections, yeast and fungal infections and skin fold infections
•Systemic diseases, such as autoimmune diseases
•Skin cancer, such as Squamous cell carcinoma, cutaneous lymphoma, Mast cell tumors
•Allergies, such as flea allergy dermatitis, adverse food reactions, environmental allergies, etc.

All of these conditions can become serious and, if untreated, dramatically reduce quality of life. But the tremendous strides made in veterinary innovation, however, is very good news for our pets. Specifically, the testing and treatments for allergies now rivals human healthcare in its sophistication, quality of care and long-term health outcomes.

Unlike humans, dogs and cats cannot tell us about their dermatological health issues. So we as pet owners must look for the signs. The most common indicators that a pet is suffering from some kind of allergy involve frequent episodes of ear infections, red raised or open sores on the skin, constant licking or biting of paws or groin — sometimes causing wounds that will not go away.

Allergies present a particular challenge because there can be hundreds (even thousands) of potential allergens that impact pet health, from foods to pollen from grasses, weeds, trees, dust mites and more. Today’s specialty veterinary hospitals have access to the very latest diagnostic tests to get to the bottom of what’s ailing our pet. Among these tests is the Intra Dermal Test (IDT).

IDT is generally considered the gold standard of testing for identifying allergens that cause pets to suffer from chronic skin and/or ear diseases. IDT involves injections of a series of concentrated allergens into the skin to determine which of them generate allergic reactions in a given animal. The use of fluorescein — a chemical that illuminates the inflammation caused by the injected allergens in order to visualize the strength of individual reactions — is key to accurately diagnosing pet allergies, and is just one of the many ways veterinarians use new technologies to improve care and diagnostics.

The results of IDT (as well as a review of the pet’s medical history) can then inform comprehensive immunotherapy treatments to relieve suffering. Veterinary dermatologists rely on IDT to build customized treatment plans for patients called Allergen Specific Immuno Therapy or “ASIT” for short.

ASIT involves a series of injections specifically created for the allergic animal’s skin. These injections, of diluted allergens, are designed to make a pet less sensitive to their allergens over time. In most cases these injections must be continued for life to reduce symptoms, but they are highly effective. Seventy to 90 percent of pets experience a reduction in symptoms as a result of ASIT treatment. These treatments can be delivered even more easily via droplets under the tongue, perfect for pet owners who are squeamish about giving injections to their pet.

This treatment is very new to the North American field of medicine (both human and veterinary) and underscores just how far innovation in veterinary medicine has come.

When it’s time to see the vet

Many pet owners are understandably concerned about taking their animals to the veterinarian because the cost (to say nothing of the fear some animals experience when going do the doctor) may outweigh any perceived reduction in suffering. To help pet owners know when it’s time to bring Fido to the doctor I’ve compiled my “Top Ten” list of dermatological symptoms that should never be ignored:

•Intense itching of the skin (head shaking, running the face into the carpet, furniture, etc.)
•Biting at the skin that creates red, raw crusting areas of the skin
•Multiple ear infections (head shaking, odor from ears, scratching at the ears with hind legs)
•Paw licking or chewing and frequent infections of the skin in the webbed skin of the paws
•Staining of the fur of the paws and nails on multiple feet
•Reoccurring skin infections in the groin, under the shoulders, perianal areas (on or under the tail)
•Greasy scaling skin and/or fur with odorous skin
•Hair loss, or thinning of the fur
•Dark pigmentation of the skin that is chronically infected
•Sudden depigmentation of skin

Allergies and other dermatological issues can be as frustrating for pet owners and their veterinarians as they can be for pets. I encourage any pet owner whose animal is experiencing any of these symptoms to consult with their veterinarian.

[lauri g]

first of all a raw diet is far better as it goes thru a dogs system clean and the transition isnt hard to do. I constantly do research and have mine only on raw which i give whole prey as well as prey model that i get from hare today gone tomorrow and from local vets . I do not buy from grocery stores as they do have meat with hormones etc. If i had to buy from grocery it would be labeled organic only. I will be willing to help anyone that wants to convert to raw. because of a raw diet and all natural raising on my boys mine never have bad breath nor ever smell like a dog {like a wet dog does when it comes in from the rain} never have decay or tarter buildup on teeth and no medical problems . I am happy I have learned that kibble isnt the way to go as dogs are carnivores not omnivores . Just look at your dogs teeth they are not flat .. you’ll be surprised how much of your dogs allergies will go away.
you can check our page also on fb natures way carnivore pets

[alexis w]

i don’t personally feed my dogs raw but rather lightly cooked(more out of salmonella concerns with the kids getting doggy kisses rather than for the dog herself) but from my research I have read that a raw egg or two are very beneficial, I also second the coconut oil idea, its very good for the body…human or dog. here is a link to a very simple coconut oil dog treat: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/AYnmQSeFbOhygDrZaRulwt7a7KZtS6d5EEmZE_K6xUNJYlozNAY1jt8/

[Susan]

Jennifer G yes please get the Endoscope & make sure you get the biopsies done as well cause Patch stomach looked fine when vet did the Endoscope but when the biopsies results came back it was a different story, Patch had Moderate to Chronic Lymphocytic Gastritis with associated spiral bacteria infection (Helicobacter) I wished I did the Endoscope + Biopsies, 1 year before, I thought I could fix the problem & I put poor Patch thru 1 year of bad acid reflux or even if the vet gives you the Metronidazole Losec & Amoxicillin for 21 days as soon as Patch takes the Metronidazole after 2-3 days his acid reflux stops, Patches vet now writes out 5 repeat scripts of the Metronidazole & as soon as Patch starts grinding teeth & swallowing for a few days & the Zantac or the liquid Mylanta isn’t working, I know the Helicobacter is back again & give Losec & the Metronidazole for 7 days, maybe start cooking the raw diet instead of feeding raw, they need a healthy stomach to eat raw, I put Patch on raw diet thru a Naturopath but I had to add probiotic & digestive enzyme but Patches acid reflux got worse again when he was burping up water from the raw, the raw must of been digesting real quickly cause of the digestive enzymes & he was bringing the raw back up & swallowing it, regurgitating it, so I started cooking the raw diet, it was heaps better now I feed kibble for breakfast & cooked diet for dinner I buy lean pork mince make into rissoles with some parsley boiled sweet potatoes broccoli & zucchini I change things sometimes, but I’ve stopped the cooked chicken breast, he kept having a red hot swollen back paw & was licking & licking the back paw& was scratching & burping real bad after eating the cooked chicken breast so maybe he’s sensitive to chicken….

[Susan]

Hi Sydney. your best sticking with limited ingredient kibbles, that way you have less ingredients that he can be sensitive or intolerant too & start reacting with skin problems…. Have a look “Taste Of The Wild” Grain Free formulas like the Pacific Stream Smoked Salmon, my boy does well on the Taste Of The Wild Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb, I try & stay around 40% & under for carbs, you add the Protein % + the Fat % + the Fiber % + the Moisture % & + the Ash % if there’s no ash % on bag or their internet site then just add 8% for the ash, now take the results away from 100 & you’ll have a the carb %….also rotate when you find a few kibbles brands he does well on, rotate them, you can do it monthly every time you have to buy a new bag of kibble….
My boy starts to smell real yeasty when the carb % is over 45% in carbs & when he eats barley, corn, maize, gluten meal, beet pulp & sometimes oats, depends where on the ingredient list the oats are, he starts to smell scratch & itch, it will depend on your dog, what he’s sensitive too, even the grain free kibbles can be very high in starchy carbs as well, have a look at Canidae Pure kibbles, they’re grain free, there’s Pure Wild, Pure Land, Pure Sea, Pure Sky, the Canidae Pure formulas were a bit too rich for my Staffy, he has IBD & got acid reflux when he ate the Pure Land, probably the Bison was too rich for him or the chickpeas…a lot of dogs do really well on fish kibbles that have skin problems, the Canidae has their Pure Sea… Canidae Pure Formulas are very dense, high in Kcals, you don’t need to feed as much kibble…. Canidae also have their Life Stages Formulas, have a look at the Duck Meal Brown Rice & Lentils Formula for large Breeds….. Patch just tried the Life Stages, All Life Stages Formula, it has Chicken meal, Turkey Meal, Lamb Meal as the first 3 ingredients then Ocean fish meal is further down the ingredient list & its around 39% in Carbs, or try another kibble that has a few different ingredients to the kibble he’s eating now, try & make sure there’s about 2 to 4 proteins as the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th ingredients maybe try a grainfree kibble you’ve tried a kibble with grains also fresh foods are excellent give a few small sardines, the tin sardines in spring water as a treat or add to his kibble, at dinner time if you’ve cooked too much & have some left over veggies & meat make him a meal as well, I prefer fresh foods then feeding kibble, kibble is quick & easy for us…I try & feed 1 meal kibble breakfast & dinner a cooked meal, I cook then freeze meals…. here’s the Canidae page http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products/ the new Pure Wild looks good, I’m waiting to try it, I live Australia & we haven’t got the new Canidae formulas yet 🙁 I love Pit Bulls being pure white, I hope he doesn’t get skin allergies as he gets older, my vet said he see’s more white, pink skin dogs with skin problems then dogs that are black or brown with dark skin, also are you washing him weekly in the Malaseb medicated shampoo?? bath in a antibacterial shampoo to kill the bacteria & yeast…I have a English Staffy he has skin problems only where he’s has white fur the brindle areas are fine & stomach problems…. I hope you have better luck with your boy, so make sure he’s eating a good diet & use sun screen on face head etc & give him a nice raw meaty turkey leg once a week for breakfast also in Australia we give Staffys whole coconuts to play with, you peel the husk off the coconut a bit can cause sloppy poos, then the coconut keeps them busy trying to open the coconut & drink the milk, keep 1/2 the coconut for another day, may cause soft poos depends on your dog..

[Monique G]

I Have an 11 year old English Springier Spaniel and 2 dachshunds, one of the dachshunds has skin allergies and the Springer, I need advice on what to feed them it is definitely yeast been to the vets numerous trips. DONE with the steroids and Prednisone so frustrated don’t know what else to do ? What do you think about Dinovite and raw food meal ?

[Jennifer G]

Hello, I have a 9 year old boxer “Rosco” who started gulping (no vomitting unless its a hack up of bile) a couple of months ago. We treated initially with Prilosec which didn’t do much, then did a 2 week treatment of carafate and metoclopramide which we were only successful for 10 days and had to go out of town. He is raw fed (predatory raw so only meat) and we wondered if it was the new suppliers chicken blend (since he didn’t have a problem before) and possibly it was fattier. So he went to chicken breast and we added some green beans for bulk. We tried to give him some rice or pasta per the vet but that destroyed him and caused bloody stool. Luckily I was able to get that under control quickly. Next was a probiotic and that did nothing so then we went to Kefir which seems to be best for him. So a month later he is on chicken breast, bone meal, green beans and kefir and still gulping (sometimes he has a very bad day of it and other times it can be 2 or 3 days of 2am bouts). He is on heart medication for cardiomyopathy and we did have him xrayed because we thought the sound was a cough but now we realize it is a side effect of the gulping. So his chest is clear, heart is fine, his diet has nearly no fat. He has no allergy symptoms. He has been on carafate and metoclopramide again for 10 days and had one bad 2am bout. Overall he is better but not well by any means. I was interested in the seizure possibility but he is not desperately hungry and the helicobacter seems like it would have caused much more severe issues with his poop. He did lose quite a sum of weight in the beginning but being on the chicken breast fixed that. I am being told to go for an endoscopy with a specialist but I worry that it will be all for nothing. Anyone dealt with this where it was unidagnosed and the dog got megaesophagus or worsened in condition over time? What options are there for all of us? Thanks in advance.

[william C]

Anyone looking for Green Tripe in Southern California visit http://www.happeedawg.com. Just wanted to share that info, took me awhile to find this great product for dogs Rawnation.

[Shawna]

laconrad,

Although I do feel small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables are quite healthy for dogs, carbohydrates aren’t a necessary requirement – even in the modern dog. Yes, when properly processed, they can utilize them but they still aren’t a necessary macronutrient. Waltham is a reliable source of information on this – they state “Cats and dogs can sythesise their own blood glucose from amino acids. Carbohydrate, therefore is not an essential macronutrient. However, if provided in their diet, cats and dogs can utilise carbohydrates and they are used in pet foods as sources of energy and dietary fibre.
Carbohydrate levels tend to be higher in dry pet food than in wet pet food.” https://www.waltham.com/dyn/_assets/_pdfs/waltham-booklets/Essentialcatanddognutritionbookletelectronicversion.pdf

In fact, carbohydrates aren’t even required in complete and balanced foods. There is a minimum protein requirement, a minimum fat requirement but no minimum on carbs. AAFCO guidelines as of 2008 http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=662

They now know that the MINIMUM protein requirement for senior dogs is actually 25%. ” Protein requirements actually increase by about 50% in older dogs, while their energy requirements tend to decrease. When insufficient protein is provided, it can aggravate the age-associated loss of lean body mass and may contribute to earlier mortality. Older dogs should receive at least 25% of their calories from protein, typically provided by diets containing at least 7 g protein/100 Kcal ME.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18656844

It’s also a myth that higher protein amounts have a negative impact on a dog’s kidneys. In fact, dogs WITH kidney disease can safely eat a higher protein diet as long as phosphorus is watched. Here’s my favorite source of info on this “Mythology of Protein Restriction for Dogs with Reduced Renal Function” http://www.championpetfoods.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Myths_of_High_Protein.pdf

The bioavailability of the protein is every bit as important as the overall amount. The more bioavailable the protein the less blood urea nitrogen is created. So the better the quality of the protein the more that can be fed. An ounce of protein from beef, as an example, will be better utilized, leaving less waste, than an ounce of soy protein. Additionally raw protein will be better utilized then it’s cooked counterpart due to amino acid loss lowering bioavailability.

I have never read any literature suggesting protein as a cause of cirrhosis however I would agree that lowering protein would be advised if the liver is already severely damaged. NOT because the protein is further “damaging” the liver however the ammonia not being converted is quite toxic. Even in this article relating to humans they don’t suggest excess dietary protein as a cause https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000302.htm

Excess fiber in the diet has been shown to act as an anti-nutrient. I just this week read a research paper on this but I bookmarked it at work and don’t have access right now.

You’ve mentioned the liver and kidneys several times so I thought I’d add a little more research on the kidneys. “Long-term renal responses to high dietary protein in dogs with 75% nephrectomy. These results do not support the hypothesis that high protein feeding had a significant adverse effect on either renal function of morphology in dogs with 75% nephrectomy.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3702209

Purina Veterinary Diets
“A University of Minnesota study revealed renal aging does not occur in geriatric dogs, at least to the extent that it has been reported in people. When fed a diet of 39% protein and 15% fat (dry matter basis), geriatric dogs maintained relatively stable glomerular filtration rates and had no greater incidence of glomerulosclerosis than those dogs in the protein-restricted (19% dry matter basis) diet group. These and other studies indicate no need for restricted dietary protein, fat, sodium or phosphorus to help minimize renal disease progression in healthy geriatric dogs. Still other studies have shown high dietary protein alone will not cause the development of kidney disease. In addition, research has shown that older dogs may actually require more protein than younger adult dogs, just to maintain normal protein turnover, and to support lean body mass and normal immunocompetence.

Obesity has been associated with arthritis, cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus, neoplasia and decreased survival. Therefore, efforts to maintain ideal body weight and body condition are far more important and appropriate than protein or phosphorus reduction for maintaining health in geriatric dogs.” https://www.purinaveterinarydiets.com/research/senior-dogs-do-old-kidneys-need-new-diets/

Interestingly, at least two papers published in the Journal of Nutrition have shown higher protein diets to be beneficial for weight loss in dogs.

“High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/134/8/2087S.full

“Weight Loss in Obese Dogs: Evaluation of a High-Protein, Low-Carbohydrate Diet” http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/6/1685S.full

[InkedMarie]

Until you try a raw diet for your dog, you have no idea what your dog can and can’t have. There are raw food companies that offer exptic proteins such as emu, llama, goat, etc.

There is kibble made with kangaroo. There is a freeze dried with goat.

[crazy4cats]

Hi Mick M-
I guess I don’t have any common sense. I add canned food to my dogs’ morning meals. I stick to mostly budget friendly 5 star canned stews such as, 4Health, Pure Balance, Nature’s Domain and Variety’s Homestyle stews.

In the evening, they get egg, tripe, sardines, or commercial raw nuggets in their kibble.

Hope this helps!

[zcRiley]

My philosophy is to have your dogs the best they can be every single day, whether they have 5 years left , 5 months or 5 days. Every moment is a gift, why not give them a dietary boost, it’s never too late! You know what to fall back on if they show signs of intolerances.

Soft freeze dried is easy on the teeth and digestion. Super healthy clean raw without the freezing/ thawing frustrations. ZiwiPeak is great but can go bad in the bag faster, moisture factor. Primal Nuggets have long shelf life, crumble, add water and mix. Both are complete balanced meals, you may see their energy pick up, too. Remember, protein is still very important for senior dogs. Introduce with a slow transition and have fun with it!

[DieselJunki]

You’re story sounds hauntingly familiar. My Ambull started off this way but I couldn’t find a kibble he did well on at ALL. It was hard because he was wasting away, like he wasn’t digesting. I spent soooooooo much money and got 0 answers from my vet. I threw my hands up and went and did a raw diet, that was the only thing that worked for us, I did that for 2 years and just recently switched back to kibble trying brands that I had tried before and am getting good results this time. I have no idea what happened between when he was a puppy to 3 years later but he’s doing so well on kibble I’m actually quite surprised.

At least she is doing well on something. Halfway through the switch you say she develops the poops. Have you tried to add more of the old food back in with the new to see if that would help instead of just going straight back to the prescription food? How slow are you going with her switch? Have you been keeping track of common ingredients in those foods and tried to find another food with out those ingredients in it? Food trials take time, but anythings better than Purina and Royal Canine. In my opinion it is worth the effort. In a food trial it is best to keep all table scraps, and treats out of the mix to really truly get a handle on what it is that is causing her issues. You could use her current food as ‘treats’ and she wouldn’t know the difference I bet.

Have you tried any probiotics, or enzymes?

• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by DieselJunki.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by DieselJunki.

[DieselJunki]

It depends. Does your dog have food allergies or is it environmental or both? Notice any fleas?

Not all dogs have the same allergies, so we can’t recommend without knowing more information.

What is your dog currently eating? Has the itching always been an issue or is this something that has cropped up lately?

I will tell you that I have an Ambull which I thought originally had food allergies so we went raw for two years. He was still so very very itchy due to environmental alleriges. He does best kept inside with the A/C to keep the pollens and dusts out. Thankfully I’ve kept it under control by weekly baths and if we’ve had a day of hard play I rinse him with the hose in between baths.

[DieselJunki]

My dog has been skin scrapped so many times and nothing ever comes of it but some bacteria, which we all know if they test a raw spot of course there would be bacteria, bacteria is all over our skin. I always decline anti-biotics and just treat the area at home myself. I believe my dog has more environmental allergies as apposed to food allergies because we did raw for nearly 2 years, just recently switched back to kibble and he has always been itchy. Spring is his worst enemy, and go figure, I just moved to Cali! He usually smells as well but it’s because he is constantly peeing on his darn legs, boy dogs are the worst sometimes. I bathe once a week with Zymox Shampoo and do the Creme Rinse (which I leave on). Throughout the week I will wet a cloth, put some of the Zymox Creme Rinse on and rub him down with it. It has a pleasant smell. I’m lucky though as I have a dog with a short coat, you’d have to really work to get the Zymox shampoo and Creme rinse in there. Zymox shampoo is enzymatic and I have had good success with it so far in helping to keep the irritants at bay for my dog. If you read the reviews online others with yeasty dogs it has helped greatly as well. There is another brand called Derma-Soothe Shampoo and Derma-Soothe Cream Rinse. I just bought them and have yet to use it so can’t say whether they are good but the reviews online are decent, I plan to use the Derma-Soothe when he’s really having a melt down, last week was pretty bad here for him but we made it. What I can’t stress enough is to follow the directions on the bottle, if it says leave the shampoo on for 10 minutes after you’re done lathering the dog up, leave it for 10, or even 20, then rinse, there is a reason for said directions.

+1 to going to the vet and having a skin scrap done to see if it’s really yeast but if you can’t afford it try to google how others treat yeast infections in their home. I hear a white distilled vinegar rinse after a bath and leaving it in (lightly drying but not fully) is a good way to help control yeast. But this may have to be a weekly or multiple day a week occurrence where you bathe and do the vinegar rinse to get the yeast under control.

In the mean time can we help you find a comparable priced dog food that is a bit better in the ingredient list? Maybe you can persuade her if the cost is about the same.

[Bobby dog]

Hi Jillian:
Yes, I agree with Freddy w a visit with your Vet is a good place to start. My dog was diagnosed with a yeast overgrowth several years ago, it’s quite a distinct odor. Food has nothing to do with Malassezia Dermatitis. If your dog is diagnosed with a yeast infection of the skin here are some sites I often refer to for information:
http://www.healthyskin4dogs.com/blog/2015/9/8/facts-myths-about-yeast-dermatitis-in-dogs?rq=yeast

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=466&S=0&EVetID=3001644

Check out the resources and blog for more info:
http://www.healthyskin4dogs.com/home

Here’s a great article written by Dr. Sagman about choosing pet foods:/choosing-dog-food/brand-guidelines/

If you would like some suggestions for food post what the budget would be and where you plan on shopping, pet stores, on-line, price club, feed/hardware stores, grocery etc.

Edit: My dog eats a variety of foods without issue homecooked, commercial raw, kibble, canned, grain inclusive, grain free, you name it. Bathing him a few times a month, more if needed, I believe is most helpful for him. He has been symptom free for a few years. There is light at the end of the tunnel!!

[theBCnut]

There are no negatives to brushing except the time it takes, so I’m all for people brushing their dogs teeth, especially if they feed kibble. I don’t brush my dogs teeth because they never have plaque of any kind and I have so many animals that necessary stuff takes all my time. I do take the time to teach good mouth manners to all my puppies and real life keeps them gentle. I don’t take for granted that their teeth are clean because I feed raw. They get their teeth checked at least twice a week, as well as every other part of their body.

[Cannoli]

Hi Bcnut,

You make a good point about teaching a dog to chew. I tried teaching my boy with a bone once about 5 months ago but it did not go well and I gave up.

So I went to ground bones. Although now he is becoming a better chewer I might try teaching him again. I noticed that on raw and or home cooked meals he is chewing his food. When I feed him his kibble meal a few times a week he goes back to gulping. This is one of the points that many raw feeders make, that dogs over time on raw begin to chew their food.

In regards to plague I have read that dogs eating raw bones does help eliminate plague.
I also must confess that I love brushing my dog’s teeth. It’s a bonding experience between my pup and I. I bring out the tooth brush and he comes running up to my lap. Plus it teaches him good mouth manners. He knows that I can stick my hands in his mouth and he won’t bite me. As a result of this I am very bias towards teeth brushing and always point people to brush their dog’s teeth.

[theBCnut]

It’s funny that you should post that. In my 41 years of owning my own dogs, the only tooth fracture I have had to deal with was from a nylabone. In the 14 years that I worked in the veterinary field(not a vet), we had about 5 broken teeth from Nylabones, close to 15 from chewing rocks(but a few of those were all in one Lab’s mouth), and 2 from aggressive bone chewers that were not raw fed dogs. I couldn’t even begin to guess how many from car accidents.

We also had a number of blockages. One dog ate socks, credit cards, screws, chain collar, etc. Both of the 2 that had swallowed bones were not raw fed. Socks were the biggest offender.

If raw fed dogs are swallowing bones that are too big, their owners didn’t do enough research before starting to feed raw. You see, you’re supposed to make sure your dog LEARNS to chew up the bones. If they gulp their food, there are measures to take to slow them down and get them chewing.

[DieselJunki]

I live in a 25′ bumper pull trailer with my 100lb American Bulldog! 😀

I was doing raw in it for quite some time, I bought a small 3cu foot deep freezer to leave outside my trailer. But that’s because I stay in one place usually for a couple years at a time. MOST parks say you can’t have them but I’ve never had a problem with them telling me to get rid of one.

Anyways! You’re here to hear about kibble. SO, what I do is use a vittles vault, since my dog is large I’m always buying the big bags so mine can hold up to 40lbs of food. If I need to actually go to a petfood store like Petsmart or Petco I go for the Wellness Core brand (5stars). However, sometimes you can find other smaller shops that carry brands the larger chains might not, always call ahead if you have a brand in mind.

I usually just order from Chewy though, that way I can get other brands. My dog is used to switching so I never have to mix food. Why are you so against mail order if I might ask? Are you really moving around that much you can’t get an order in every 5 to 6 weeks? Most places have free shipping on orders over $50.

I used to like Merrick but since the whole Purina thing, I’m giving it a couple years before I try them again.

[DieselJunki]

If budget is an issue for you and Orijen is too expensive (as it is for me at the moment, trust me, wish I could feed it!) there are a few budget friendly dog foods out there like Victor, which I just ordered their Ultra Pro 42 Grain Free but they do have a puppy and active dog bag. Dr. Tims is another brand, one highly spoken of here although they don’t specifically have a puppy formula they do have an All Life Stages one.

All these can be found on the Chewy website. I live in CA, ordered Thursday and the food was here today even though it said it may be here Tuesday of next week. Very impressed with that.

I add fish oil to my dogs food everyday. Occasionally I’ll top my dogs food with an egg, a decent 4-5 star wet food with the gravy in it, or some raw meat if it’s gotten a little freezer burned in my freezer and I don’t care to eat it that way.

[zcRiley]

Hi Sue L, nothing like a happy addition to an expanding family. Forget your local store, have a big selection on high quality foods on Chewy.com, free 2-3 day delivery. All ingredients are listed for your approval. Definitely Orijen puppy food (dry) and Esbilac puppy milk (powder), daily 4 times round the clock, with lotsa fresh water available. Orijen Adult for your other babies just look for food sensitivities. As a super healthy topper, add a little Primal Freeze Dried Nuggets (raw), just add a bit of water. That Nutrish stuff…..one word. No.

[anonymously]

Raw food doesn’t agree with some dogs and can cause GI distress. Bones (raw or otherwise) even when finely ground up can cause GI blockage. I no longer feed bones because this happened.
I have had excellent results with once a day dental brushing.

PS: Bones can also cause broken teeth.

[John P]

Hello all,

So I started raw feeding about a month ago. Started on Chicken leg quarters for the first two weeks and then introduced turkey necks on week three. She has been doing really well. Her skin and energy have improved tremendously, and honestly I wish I would’ve started this sooner.

I started introducing some boneless a week ago because her stools were really hard, so I figured too much bone content. I also added chicken hearts gizzards, which she loves.

Now all of a sudden, she doesn’t want to eat anything with a bone in it. I put the leg quarter or turkey neck outside and she doesn’t even touch it. I know bones are an important part of raw feeding, so I’m concerned.

Any suggestions on why she may have stopped eating them? Anyone had a similar issue?

Finally, if she just simply won’t eat it, can you recommend a solution for feeding boneless with a calcium supplement?

Thanks

[Susan]

Hi sounds like food sensitivities/intolerances & environment allergies, have you looked at doing the Jean Dobbs salvia testing to get an idea what foods she may be sensitive too, I know people say these test are not 100% but it will give you an idea what foods she may be sensitive too there’s also salvia & hair testing that test for food, mites & tree/plants….. she may be sensitive to dust mites??? also my boy can not have a kibble that’s high fat, high fiber/carb diet, no fish or salmon oils they all cause acid reflux stomach problems…
Can you start to cook for her or even if you feed a cooked meal that’s been pre cooked sectioned then frozen & you take out the night before & put in fridge for next day & feed a kibble for breakfast & cooked for dinner, also change the kibble, stop feeding kibbles with potatoes & specially when potatoes are first ingredient like the Natural Balance is, its too much starchy carbs…..a good kibble should have 2-4 proteins as 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th ingredients then a carb…..
Some grain free kibbles can be very high in starchy carbs…. I have found Patch does best on a kibble that’s lamb chicken fish & Brown rice or a Fish Kibble with sweet potatoes but the fat has to be 10-14% fat or he gets his acid reflux & it must not have fish oil or Salmon oil or he starts grinding his teeth with real bad acid reflux.
He eats Earthborn Ocean Fusion, Taste Of The Wild Sierra Mountain Roasted Lamb, Canidae Life Stages, all life stages formula, Canidae Grain free look at the Pure land, Pure Sky & Pure Wild they all have no potatoes & Carbs are 40% & under
http://www.canidae.com/dog-food/products
Have a look at the Honest Kitchen aswell
Shop All Dog
look at “Brave” & “Zeal” carbs are 35% or the base mixes you just add the protein….

Baths are you doing weekly baths? I use the “Malaseb” medicated shampoo in Spring Summer, bath every 4-7 days, whenever Patchy is real itchy & has his red paws/toes, itchy bum, etc …… I also use Hydrocortisone 1% cream, every night when Patch is sleeping, I do the skin body check for any red toes, red paws, white fur thinning out above right eye etc & lightly apply some Hydrocortisone cream next morning itch & redness has all cleared up also I use the “Huggie Baby Wipes” Cucumber & Aloe, when we come home from a walk or he goes outside, I wipe Patch down, a new baby wipe per section of the body, these Cucumber & Aloe wipes are really good, sold in Supermarket baby section, I think you can get special wipes for environment allergies & hot spots as well, there’s a Face Book group called “Dog issues, allergies and other information support” group, one of the admins uses the special wipes & has started cooking & using “Balance It” to balance the diet……

Normally when they have Food Sensitivities/Intolerances they will have stomach & bowel problems & itchy skin…….My Patch gets he has Seasonal Environment Allergies & Food Intolerances & Sensitivities to certain foods, I did an elimination diet, then started adding foods… there’s no point trying a vegan diet, the carbs would be thru the roof 50-70% carbs like the vet diets have & you want a low carb diet……dogs are made to eat meat, have you thought of trying a Raw diet?? Patch did real well on Raw diet his skin cleared up within 1 week BUT cause he has IBD he kept regurgitating water up into his mouth, I think it was the Digestive enzymes the Naturopath made me use cause of his IBD I was so worried he’ll get diarrhea from the raw diet, so we used digestive enzymes & I think they digested the raw to quick & Patch was burping up & water was coming up into mouth… I’m going to try the raw again next Summer…..
I would honestly start again with the diet building up the immune system probiotice foods high in probiotics Kefir/yogurt etc & see if you see a change, if your on face Book Monica Segal has a group called “K9Kitchen” she has put up a easy recipe to make called “Omega 3 Boost” cookies, I’m going to make some for Patch, I really believe you need to boost their omega 3 & some kibbles are very high in omega 6 & very low in omega 3 then the dog starts having skin problems, stop the fish oils & try other things that are high in omega 3, olive oil, sardines in Spring water are good 1-2 a day this way its given thru foods… also what tin foods are you feeding? I was feeding tin foods at night as well & they were making Patch itch they had gelling agents in them something in the wet food made his paws go real red & he’d start licking his paws & get itchy, try replacing the wet tin foods with cooked meals… I’m feeding boil chicken breast, sweet potato not much only 1/4 to 1/3 cup & broccoli & 1 cup chicken, cook & add greens zucchini celery spinach etc… I feed more protein then carbs in the cooked meals…1 cup meat 1/2 cup veggies…

[Susan]

I would STOP feeding the Royal Canin SO….. When I first recused Patch Patch was put the Royal Canine SO kibble & the SO wet tin food to dissolve his crystals, vet said he was probably used for breeding & got an infection….. Patch was desexed put on antibiotics 2 weeks & the R/C SO for 6 weeks, after the 6 weeks he had another Ultra Scan to see if Patches crystals had dissolve & they had, so vet said now you can put him back on his regular diet, he doesn’t have to keep eating the R/C SO anymore but while eating the R/C SO for 6 weeks, Patch started to itch & scratch, had smelly itchy ears, shaking his head & stunk of yeast, I have since learnt Patch can’t eat Wheat, Corn, Maize, Gluten, Barley & Chicken….
If you can start feeding a raw balanced diet or a cooked balanced diet, the Honest Kitchen has some really good formulas & Base Mixes you just add the protein & the meal is balanced also there’s groups on Face Book you can join “Home Cooking for dogs” “Raw Feeding For Dogs” there’s Monica Segal group called “K-9 Kitchen” https://www.facebook.com/groups/K9Kitchen/
Monica puts up recipes, she has one at the moment “Omega 3 Boost” cookies looks very easy too make, Monica also does consults & special diets for health problems….

With Nelly’s itchy skin & hot spots, bath 5-7 days, weekly baths in an antibacterial shampoo, I use “Malaseb medicated shampoo” its kills any bacteria & leaves the skin & fur feeling sooooo soft & itch free…. change diet to a healthy natural diet, bath weekly or when your dog is itchy & has hot spots, you’ll start to see a big change after changing diet & weekly baths, here’s the Honest Kitchen site “Zeal” or “Brave” are excellent formula’s for dogs with skin problems & low in carbs…. http://www.thehonestkitchen.com/dog-food/zeal

Also google “Dr Judy Morgan” she has diets on You-Tube for dogs with certain health problems & sells the supplements & does consults for diets for health problems..

[Katrina D]

I was googling about pet nutrition the other day and found a link for a Clinical Pet Nutrition program at the Academy for Natural Health Sciences. It can be taken online, and the classes look pretty interesting. They appear to promote raw and healthy commercial diets, compared to most nutrition courses run by Hills and Royal Canin. Does anyone have any insight into whether this is a reputable course to take, and if it would be worth the money?

[anonymously]

By Klaus Loft, DVM
Angell Dermatology Service

Anyone who suffers debilitating environmental allergies tied to changing seasons, pet dander or household dust mites knows first-hand the misery of a scratchy throat, itchy eyes or painful rashes.

Not everyone knows, however, that our pets can experience similar allergic reactions — and other very bothersome dermatological issues. But our pets need not suffer in silence. Modern veterinary science has evolved such that advanced, comprehensive treatments are now available to treat a range of skin conditions.

Top pet dermatological issues

Our four-legged friends suffer from some of the same skin issues as we do — and several that we do not. The most common conditions we see at Angell include:

•Parasites, such as mites, fleas and mange (scabies)
•Infectious diseases, such as Staphylococcal pyoderma (“Staph”) skin infections, yeast and fungal infections and skin fold infections
•Systemic diseases, such as autoimmune diseases
•Skin cancer, such as Squamous cell carcinoma, cutaneous lymphoma, Mast cell tumors
•Allergies, such as flea allergy dermatitis, adverse food reactions, environmental allergies, etc.

All of these conditions can become serious and, if untreated, dramatically reduce quality of life. But the tremendous strides made in veterinary innovation, however, is very good news for our pets. Specifically, the testing and treatments for allergies now rivals human healthcare in its sophistication, quality of care and long-term health outcomes.

Unlike humans, dogs and cats cannot tell us about their dermatological health issues. So we as pet owners must look for the signs. The most common indicators that a pet is suffering from some kind of allergy involve frequent episodes of ear infections, red raised or open sores on the skin, constant licking or biting of paws or groin — sometimes causing wounds that will not go away.

Allergies present a particular challenge because there can be hundreds (even thousands) of potential allergens that impact pet health, from foods to pollen from grasses, weeds, trees, dust mites and more. Today’s specialty veterinary hospitals have access to the very latest diagnostic tests to get to the bottom of what’s ailing our pet. Among these tests is the Intra Dermal Test (IDT).

IDT is generally considered the gold standard of testing for identifying allergens that cause pets to suffer from chronic skin and/or ear diseases. IDT involves injections of a series of concentrated allergens into the skin to determine which of them generate allergic reactions in a given animal. The use of fluorescein — a chemical that illuminates the inflammation caused by the injected allergens in order to visualize the strength of individual reactions — is key to accurately diagnosing pet allergies, and is just one of the many ways veterinarians use new technologies to improve care and diagnostics.

The results of IDT (as well as a review of the pet’s medical history) can then inform comprehensive immunotherapy treatments to relieve suffering. Veterinary dermatologists rely on IDT to build customized treatment plans for patients called Allergen Specific Immuno Therapy or “ASIT” for short.

ASIT involves a series of injections specifically created for the allergic animal’s skin. These injections, of diluted allergens, are designed to make a pet less sensitive to their allergens over time. In most cases these injections must be continued for life to reduce symptoms, but they are highly effective. Seventy to 90 percent of pets experience a reduction in symptoms as a result of ASIT treatment. These treatments can be delivered even more easily via droplets under the tongue, perfect for pet owners who are squeamish about giving injections to their pet.

This treatment is very new to the North American field of medicine (both human and veterinary) and underscores just how far innovation in veterinary medicine has come.

When it’s time to see the vet

Many pet owners are understandably concerned about taking their animals to the veterinarian because the cost (to say nothing of the fear some animals experience when going do the doctor) may outweigh any perceived reduction in suffering. To help pet owners know when it’s time to bring Fido to the doctor I’ve compiled my “Top Ten” list of dermatological symptoms that should never be ignored:

•Intense itching of the skin (head shaking, running the face into the carpet, furniture, etc.)
•Biting at the skin that creates red, raw crusting areas of the skin
•Multiple ear infections (head shaking, odor from ears, scratching at the ears with hind legs)
•Paw licking or chewing and frequent infections of the skin in the webbed skin of the paws
•Staining of the fur of the paws and nails on multiple feet
•Reoccurring skin infections in the groin, under the shoulders, perianal areas (on or under the tail)
•Greasy scaling skin and/or fur with odorous skin
•Hair loss, or thinning of the fur
•Dark pigmentation of the skin that is chronically infected
•Sudden depigmentation of skin

Allergies and other dermatological issues can be as frustrating for pet owners and their veterinarians as they can be for pets. I encourage any pet owner whose animal is experiencing any of these symptoms to consult with their veterinarian.

[anonymously]

Age 7 is considered a senior, the vets often recommend an exam and lab work at this stage, if you haven’t done so. Excessive licking and hot spots is an indication that something is wrong, I think a visit to the vet may be in order.
I would discuss diet changes with the vet before taking her off of a prescription food.

“Food Allergies are probably over-diagnosed in dogs (they account for, perhaps 5-10%). Hypoallergenic diets are occasionally, but not frequently, helpful in canine atopy cases but you should always give them a try. Food intolerances are more common – but considerably more likely to result in digestive disturbances and diarrhea that in itching problems”.
http://www.2ndchance.info/Apoquel.htm

Check the search engine here for allergies: /forums/search/allergies/

http://skeptvet.com/Blog/?s=allergies You may find some helpful information at this site.

Regarding bladder stones:
/forums/topic/crystalstone-in-bladder/

Often when the infection is treated (antibiotics) and water intake is increased the condition clears up, unless they have another type of stones, also. They can have more than one type. Often there is a genetic component.

The best thing you can do is to increase water intake and offer frequent bathroom breaks, opportunities to urinate. Sure, dogs can hold it, but that’s not good for this condition, You want to keep the bladder flushed. Stagnant conditions in the bladder are conducive to stone formation.
PS: Has your dog had an x-ray to rule out calcium oxalate stones?
I use a potassium citrate/cranberry supplement I get from Chewy.com. It depends on the type of stones.
It is best to get approval from the veterinarian that is treating the dog before adding anything, and I would go along with the prescription diet for now. PH levels fluctuate and it takes a while (sometimes weeks) to see changes, at least that is what my vet told me.

you may find this site helpful: http://skeptvet.com/Blog/ Recent blog about cranberry supplements.

http://skeptvet.com/Blog/category/nutrition/ Regarding raw diets.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 11 months ago by anonymously.

[Jenna R]

Hello!

My 7yr old dog Nelly (she is a rescue but we think she is a Bichon/Shih Tzu/Havaenese) has had a few bladder infections and most recently had to have crystals (or stones) removed from her bladder in late 2015. Nelly was on Royal Canin food for medium dogs her whole life until about 2015 when my mom thought she may have a wheat/dairy allergy so she switched her food (not sure the brand). The bladder infections were treated with antibiotics and she seemed to recover just fine. After her surgery, our vet recommended going back to Royal Canin SO and we added in giving her a bit of canned Royal Canin as well however recently Nelly has been having “hot spots” and licking places she has never licked before so we are beginning to think it is a wheat allergy or SOMETHING along those lines!

Now that Nelly is better my mom is terrified to have her go through that experience again (it was AWFUL!!!) so we are looking for the best option to keep Nelly free from bladder issues all together.

I read a lot about a raw diet and cranberry pills. We are open to absolutely anything so that Nelly can have the best quality of life 🙂

*I also read about them getting enough water, i dont think this is Nelly’s issue as we do leave water out and she drinks it all the time*

Can anyone recommend the next steps that we should take?

Jenna

[Coonhound Mama]

Great menu, Cannoli. Sounds like you’ve got an awesome handle on raw. Might I ask why you are still feeding Orijen when your raw menu is so good? Just curious. I know you said you believe in a rotational diet, but it looks like your raw menu is wonderfully diverse. Keep up the good work.
🙂

[Cannoli]

Thanks anonymously variety is the key to life. Some people believe that dogs should only be fed kibble or raw. But both camps are wrong. Variety is the key to a healthy and happy dog

[elaine a]

Kiwi Peak both canned and raw food – great food