[Shasta220]

Thanks, Patty. Right now, she’s already on a basic joint supplement (I forgot to mention that)… It actually has 650mg G, maybe 200mg C. in it, but I think she needs some more, so I may keep her on a full tsp daily.

[Shasta220]

We are looking around for ActiFlex 4000 for our dogs right now. It’s the only economical joint supplement that we can find so far… At $30-40 for 32oz (aka 64tbsp or 192tsp), I figured it’s better than $20 for a 15-20 day supply.

Anyway, how many mg of glucosamine should Cassy get? She’s a 12y.o. Labrador/GSD, weighing about 65lb.

Here’s the supplemental values of an ounce (2tbsp) of Actiflex:
Glucosamine Sulfate 8,000 mg.
Chondroitin Sulfate 4,000 mg.
Type II Collagen 3,000 mg.
MSM 3,000 mg.
Ester C (Ascorbic Acid) 1,000 mg.
Yucca 150 mg.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) 125 mg.

One tsp has about 1,333mg glucosamine, so half as much chondroitin, etc. I think I’ve read somewhere that the suggested dosage for a dog her size would be 1/2tsp (1tsp for first week)… That’d be about 666mg glucosamine. Is that a good amount for her, or could she handle more?

There /is/ glucosamine/chondroitin in her food, but she gets barely 100mg of g and 15-20 of c, so it doesn’t do anything for her.

Thanks for the help! I’m really not looking for suggestions about a better supplement out there, because this is the only thing so far that will work with my wallet, as I’m an unemployed teenager who pays for all of Cassy’s extra supplements. I’m just wondering about proper dosage and what the max amount of glucosamine a senior 65lb pooch can get.

[Shasta220]

Thank you for the advice. I’m not sure how I’ll phrase it to him, as I really don’t want to come across as basically calling him a bad/uneducated owner for feeding his dogs that, because he’s one of the best dog owners I know!

I will probably end up just sending him the link to this site, and say how surprised I am about how high (or low) quality some foods are….maybe he’d get curious and check his food out.

I’m definitely going to ignore the canned food for now. Honestly, it’d be incredible if he kept them on Alpo canned, but switched them to a 3-4star dry food. I think one of his biggest issues is the fact that he probably doesn’t really want to make time to go to a feed store for better food (Walmart and grocery stores are all we have around here other than the feed stores that sell dogfood – PetCo/Smart/Costco are 50+mi)

Any extra moral support would be great though, because this guy is…well, he’s more like a second grandfather to me than anything, so there’s a high amount of respect to get through.

I’ve already told him about a great deal on joint supplements, I told him the cost on this is about 1/4 what we were paying on regular supplements. He said he’ll probably do it when they start showing signs of joint problems – they’re 7y.o. Now, so it’s really the perfect time to get em started /before/ the signs come. I just told him I’m getting my 6yr boy on it… Trying to avoid saying, in any form, that I know everything about dog health (because I DEFINITELY don’t)

Thanks again guys, I will keep you posted on any updates, that’s for sure!

[theBCnut]

Hi Rambunctious
I think we all felt the same way once. Soon all that info will start sorting itself in your head. Definitely take into account the amount of topper. The worst thing you can do for a large breed dog is to let them be a fat puppy. It puts too much stress on the joints.

[RescueDaneMom]

Jazz Lover,

The general consensus is that puppies can start regulating calcium uptake around 8-10 months old. To play is really safe you could wait until 1 year.

Read this for an understanding of what “all life stages” means: /frequently-asked-questions/aafco-nutrient-profiles/

Essentially you can feed an “all life stages” food to a puppy because it is approved for growth and reproduction as well as adult maintenance. A lot of the labels on foods (ie large breed puppy, large breed adult, senior, etc) is just marketing. If pet food companies really knew what they were doing in formulating dog foods, there would be a lot more “large breed puppy” foods on the list. If I were you, I would not get caught up on the label. You don’t have to feed a food specifically for a large breed puppy or large breed adult. You need to make sure it is approved by AAFCO for growth and reproduction (aka puppy food) or all life stages.

I had to google FCP surgery. This was done to correct elbow dysplasia? As far as supplements go, I have heard the same. You don’t want to give supplements until they are done growing. I think you’d be safe starting them at 1 year. Does your vet have an opinion on this? I think you are ok with giving the salmon oil as long as you account for the calories that it adds. How much you feed will depend on the body condition of your dog. It is hard to say how much his metabolism will slow down. I would just watch his form and if he looks like he’s getting chunky, cut back on the food. If he starts to look too skinny, increase his food. Refer to the body condition chart in the Dr. Becker article I posted previously. I keep my dog lean because he is older and has arthritis. It is much easier on the joints.

Bottom line- if I were you I would continue to feed a food on HDM’s list and hold off on additional supplements until 1 year or per your vet’s instructions. I hope that is helpful to you.

[Tucker]

Thank you Patty… Just when I thought I was good to go I run into the protein debate. 🙁

I went today and got a little bag of Wellness Puppy Core and NV LID Turnkey all on the list. Before I found you guys I had bought a bag of Great Life Chicken. I guess that is not grain free but shows lower protein.

Here is my sticking point. I have read all 59 pages 🙂 and now I am educated and confused as hell lol

My breeder of labs for 18 years was feeding Costco Salmon and Sweet Potato which is OK for puppies on the list but we have the Diamond Food recall issue. On her puppy packet she says, ” we don not fed puppy food because of the high protein in it. Pups and growing dogs do not need more than 24% protein in their diets. A large breed grows quickly and we want to make sure the joints keep up with the growth so no puppy food.”

You are in agreement with that part and the calcium levels are ok with that food. But the protein is low. Does she just not know. She said 18 years and she never has a problem with her dogs on that food. Who is right? The vet put me on Iams puppy lb and he started itching, so she put him on antibiotics and med shampoo. I feel like an idiot for giving him the pills so young but I listened to the dr. Everyone has a different opinion. I just want to do what is best. The amount of research that has been here is incredible and I am so appreciative to everyone that has taken the time to share their knowledge. Alas I feel I find myself in the same place as many newbies… over informed and over confused!

Do I look for a high end food that had the right calcium but lower protein as she says to cover both bases. The Great Life Chicken I have here and was going to start him on before I found you guys is 22%. Not grain free though. I guess the grains keep the protein levels down?

2 of the lower protein on the list get close to what she says and covers my calcium.

Earthborn Meadow Feast is 26%…
Dr Tims Kenesis is 26%

so if I understand… we adjust the quantity to compensate for the extra protein calories with a high protein food so he doesn’t grow to fast? That is what she is worried about. he is a lab and loves his food… wouldn’t it be better to give him a food with less protein and a larger quantity so he can chow down and feel full? or does it not work that way? Am I just filling the belly with wasted or unbalanced calories?

Tucker is a hoover… if I free fed him he would look like a basketball. I don’t think he would stop eating… 🙂

Right now he is 4 months and 32 pounds at last check (yellow lab male) Every vet that has looked at him says he is going to be a big boy! He is not rolly polly now. I think he looks good in the waste and ribs.

Just when I thought I had it… and I am stuck in the mud again. but now with 3 different bags of kibble at home that I am apprehensive to use 🙁

I hope I am not the only person that is this confused. You are all so patient with everyone. Sorry if I am driving you crazy.

But thank you soooo much for the help!!!!

[enny]

I am the original poster and as to any update there is none so far. As you can imagine ConsumerLab.com has to test hundreds of products from different manufacturers and pet products are not their priority. They do update but it usually takes quite a long time. One of the products that passed muster was the Glucosamine, Chondroitin, MSM combo from Nutramax Labs for joint relief for horses and canines. Pet Tabs Original Formula Vitamin-Mineral Supplement for dogs dist. by Virbac AH Inc. was the only multi. that passed. That’s about all I know at this time.

[Jazz Lover]

I’m confused about which (age group) food to give our 9mo male black lab… should we continue feeding large breed puppy, or switch to an All Stages or simply and adult dog food now?

Jazz is recovering from surgery for elbow dysplasia w FCP. It sounds like there joints fully develop by age 2, but my vet said an adult food is good at age 6-10 mos.

Additionally, has anyone had good results from any specific supplements for similar concerns and age lab and are further in recovery?

Thank you

[theBCnut]

First of all, did you read the first few pages of this thread? Did you check out the links? The idea that protein causes problems was bad science and ignorance, so don’t worry about that.
Here is Hound Dog Mom’s latest list of foods that have the appropriate amount of calcium for large breed dogs.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?srcid=0BwApI_dhlbnFTXhUdi1KazFzSUk&pid=explorer&efh=false&a=v
You have to sign up to view it, but it’s very worthwhile. Take the list with you to the pet boutiques around where you live and see what is available. DO NOT marry any one food, rotate foods. Do a search on the review side on diet rotation to learn more.

Keep your puppy thin, not just not fat, but thin. Less weight is less stress on joints.

Find a joint supplement with hyaluronic acid in it. That’s what the body needs to make repairs to joints. And consider feeding him a raw turkey neck once or twice a week, they naturally have good stuff for joints in them, since them have a lot of cartilage in them.

If you have bare floors, consider using throw or area rugs at least until he is grown. They think slip and falls can be a big factor in joint damage for puppies. And finally, no stairs for as long as possible. When he has to do stairs, make sure he does them at a walk.

[Shasta220]

I was following the “Joint Health” thread, and some people started talking about Actiflex.

Right now, I’m paying about $20/month for our senior lab’s joint supplements (I don’t remember what the brand name is, I think it’s just a store-brand…), and we could easily spend more and give her extra, as her hips need the help. She also has GSD in her, so that sure didn’t seem to help her joints!

Anyway, I found online that Actiflex is 30-40$ for 32oz…(did the calculations, figured it would last our lab 6-8mo) I REALLY want to try it out, as 5$ monthly is a lot nicer sounding than $20+ monthly. But I don’t want to try it and find out it doesn’t work, then be stuck with it.

How well does it seem to work for you guys?

[RescueDaneMom]

Freehold: I see! With your situation, I think mobility essentials makes sense. I would say that it looks like a good product to help prevent joint deterioration. If gives you room to increase the glucosamine/MSM/chondroitin when it is needed. Max is old and “creaky” so to speak. I definitely know when products aren’t working for him because his joints pop much more.

[FreeholdHound]

DaneMom: your mix sounds great & I’m saving it. Harry doesn’t show any need for joint supplements at the moment so I can’t say if it’s working or not – it’s just not coming out the other end so to speak. As a retired racing Greyhound who’ll be 5 in the Spring I thought I’d start giving him a little xtra help.

[Shasta220]

Wellness is a good brand…I wouldn’t really worry much about looking for a food intended just for seniors, unless she is really needing some extra joint support/etc. It doesn’t really sound like she is.

First off, please don’t go by what the food bag feeding guidelines say…they are ALWAYS way too much! Not a single one of my dogs has EVER eaten the amount the bag requires… Usually my dogs are completely fine w eating about HALF of what the bag says, no lie. (One of our older dogs started gaining a little when she was eating half of what the bag said…we cut back even a little more, and her energy/weight is back to 100% normal.) I’d definitely start reducing the amount of food… It’s still good to do 2 meals though. Maybe start with a normal breakfast, then cutting her dinner in half. After a week or two, try cutting both breakfast and dinner in half, then see how her weight is doing.
Also be sure to not hand out too many treats, or you’re just encouraging the weight to stay on. My dogs get treats all the time, but I just break off teeny tiny pieces – they can’t tell the difference between a big treat or a little one, it’s still something that tastes good.

Best wishes! Hopefully you can get her weight down at least a little 🙂 I’ve never really had to deal w overweight dogs yet, as I always make sure to simply prevent it from happening. I’m sure an owner as great as you will have no problem though ;D

[boobear27]

Thank you for the suggestions:) I don’t think she’s having any joint/Arthritis problems.She doesn’t seem to be in any pain and she runs, jumps, and moves around just like a normal healthy dog. I think maybe it’s the extra weight that causing her couch potato behavior. Maybe she’s eating more calories than she’s burning off. I thought now that she’s getting older maybe the food that I feed her might be too much for her. She also had problems with her anal sacs so we make sure we express them once or twice a month. Our vet suggested that she might need more fiber in her diet and to try sprinkling some metamucil on her food.

[theBCnut]

My almost 12 year old JRT is eating All Life Stages food and I wouldn’t switch to senior food ever. I’m not saying Wellness is this way, because I think they are one of the better senior foods, but most senior foods cut back on protein just when dogs start not absorbing all the protein from their food so may actually need more high quality protein in their diet than they did when they were younger.

If I were you, I would cut her food back a bit more and work at making her more active. Carrying the extra weight is probably part of why she doesn’t feel like doing much. Her joints are probably starting to hurt. Maybe use some of her food to start doing some trick training or something else that would get her moving.

[InkedMarie]

GRamoin: it’s fine to switch, I would just go very slowly, over a week. I would also use a probiotic. As far as foods, it’s been said that grains aggravate joints so I’d suggest a grainfree food. Some easier on the wallet ones are dr Tim’s, Earthborn, hi Tek…..more expensive are Acana, Orijen, Natures Variety Instinct.

Good luck!

[GRamoin]

I am trying to learn more about proper dog foods for my just turned 11 year old female yellow lab. She is about 70 lbs in really good shape and only has some joint stiffness occasionally showing. I have fed her IAM’s dry dog food forever.

2 Questions for someone to please assist if possible :
– Is it beneficial or OK to change now after using IAM’s so long ?

– What would be a great food recommendation if changing now is ok, & what is rotation strategy for and what would the rotation products recommendation be ?

Thanks so much for any input !!

[Shasta220]

I completely understand your need for economical nutrition! We have about the same problem… 3 years ago we had just two dogs and 5 cats. Now? 2 Betta fish, 3 cats, 3 dogs (aka PIGS with how much they eat…), 8 chickens, 2 ducks, a miniature horse, and a 600lb puppy dog (aka Iggy the Holstein steer…he doesn’t know he’s a cow)

We obviously cannot splurge that much on buying ultra quality food (our lab has allergies though, so she can’t have foods full of wheat/corn).

The most economical and quality foods I’ve found so far are Nutra Nuggets (I ONLY get the lamb n rice formula, since lamb meal is the first ingredient instead of corona or byproduct), Diamond naturals, and Kirkland signature. Kirkland is 4star food, about 25$ for 40lb, and can be found at Costo (possibly you could find it online?). Diamond naturals is very similar to Kirkland, but it’s 40$ (I get the Large Breed 60+ since it has glucosamine and chondroitin to help their joints). Nutra nuggets is the same price as Kirkland, but only 3-star.

To make the food last a bit longer, possibly try adding your own nutritious “fillers” such as sweet potatoes (baked), carrots, apples, and meat (cooked or raw). Possibly try to find a local butcher and see if you can buy meat-scraps, or meat that’s slightly expired (just past human-consumption, but 100% safe for dogs). I know a girl who was able to buy virtually unlimited amounts of expired meat for her 5 dogs and 8 cats… It was, I think, $.50 per lb, which is a serious steal! Yep, she gives her lucky pups 100% raw, lol!

I hope you’ve found something that’s good for the dogs and your wallet. Also, try not to get “lite” foods (I don’t ever get the lite ones…not even if it’s a quality brand), you may find yourself feeding more. Switching to a food that’s even a little better than Beneful might actually be cheaper, since you may feed less.

When I owned my 90lb APBT mix, he ate 9c of Dog Chow daily (and he was super thin, too!). We switched him over to Nutra Nuggets, and he went down to about 2c daily without gaining/losing ANY weight. My biggest tip is this: even if you can’t afford much, at least make sure meat is the #1 ingredient (meal is fine, avoid by product if you can…).

[JASTECH]

Jesse82, the food change is your best choice. When a dog is healthy inside the skin & coat follows which mites don’t like. Sense your dog is of a mixed breed called Bully Breed (not American Pit Bull Terrier) they have skin, joint, tumor and other issues more then pure bred APBT.
So start with the food, try feeding a BARF diet staying away from the grains and post your results as what raw meats and how much you feed your dog. The specs on your dog will help determine how much to feed, energy level etc.

[theBCnut]

Hi Sue, the recipe’s HDM posted are from when her youngest was still a pup, so they are for puppies.

Hi Lablubber, the reason for watching calcium is because too much causes the joints to form too fast, also if the long bones grow too fast they but strain on the muscles which can alter the gait and cause more problems. You should always strive for slow steady growth in large breed dogs. Bigger is not better. Read the first page of this thread and look at the links HDM supplied.

[RescueDaneMom]

Hi crazy mom- There are some affordable, high quality foods out there. I have an almost 8 year old Great Dane and I understand how pricey it can be to feed them.

Annamaet Ultra from HDM’s list is $70 for a 40 pound bag which comes out to $1.75/pound. It has 480 calories/cup so you’ll feed less of it than you would other foods which will also make it stretch further- a good bang for your buck. http://www.chewy.com/dog/annamaet-ultra-32-dry-dog-food/dp/41926

Annamaet Extra is also a possibility. It is lower protein at 26% instead of 32% (I prefer higher protein for my dog). It is $53 for a 40 pound bag ($1.33/pound). It is not as calorically dense as the Ultra at 425 cal/cup so you would need to feed a little more of it. http://www.chewy.com/dog/annamaet-extra-26-dry-dog-food/dp/41927

Dr. Tim’s Kinesis is good too. It’s $61 for a 44 pound bag ($1.39/pound). It has 415 cal/cup and 26% protein. http://www.chewy.com/dog/dr-tims-kinesis-all-life-stages-dry/dp/37810

Victor Select Chicken Meal and Brown Rice or Lamb Meal and Brown Rice are also affordable. The chicken is 391 cal/cup, 24% protein, and $55 for 40 pounds ($1.38/pound). http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Dog-Food-Chicken-40-Pound/dp/B00COVMFW4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1389619583&sr=8-6&keywords=victor+select+dog+food
The lamb is 381 cal/cup, 24% protein, and $59 for 40 pounds ($1.48/pound). This would be good so you can alternate proteins and not feed just chicken all the time. http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Dog-Food-Chicken-40-Pound/dp/B00COVSBL8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1389619583&sr=8-9&keywords=victor+select+dog+food

Those are all grain-inclusive foods. Grain-free cost a bit more and I don’t know exactly what your budget is. I think Earthborn Holistic is the most affordable and high quality grain free food out there. Meadow Feast and Coast Catch are on HDM’s list. They are both $47.99 for a 26 pound bag ($1.85/pound). The MF is lamb-based, 26% protein, and 400 cal/cup. http://www.chewy.com/dog/earthborn-holistic-meadow-feast/dp/36414
The CC is fish-based, 32% protein, and 435 cal/cup. http://www.chewy.com/dog/earthborn-holistic-coastal-catch/dp/36406

As far as your Danes putting weight on, as long as their not ribby it’s ok for them to be on the lean side. It’s better to be lean than overweight. You don’t want added stress on the joints.

I hope I helped with the food recommendations. If you can afford it, I would try alternating the grain-inclusive foods with grain-free foods. You could do Annamaet Ultra, Earthborn Meadow Feast, Dr. Tim’s, Earthborn Coastal Catch. That way you rotate protein sources (chicken, lamb, and fish) as well as protein percentages (32% and 26%).

[theBCnut]

BB has great advertising, that is not the same thing as being a great food. There have been a lot of people having vomitting and diarrhea issues with BB lately.

I think you are right about the protein versus carbs thing. Seniors have less ability to absorb the protein in their diet and can need as much as 50% more, not less. There are specific medical problems that may need the protein reduced, but your vet would be talking to you about diets specific to kidney or liver disease if that was a factor.

You may just need a good ALS food with a joint supplement added. No food has enough joint supplementation to actually have a therapeutic dose.

Maybe look at NutriSource.

[FreeholdHound]

My boy eats around pills – I give him digestive enzyme tablet in the AM. I have to now crush it up or it gets left at the bottom of an empty dish. I open up capsules & sprinkle it on also. At least for now til he catches on I suspect.
I thought he was doing well on the K9 Liquid Health but as I slowly increased the dose to the reccomended level, he started gurgling, refusing meals & eating frozen grass. I’ll be researching new options for Joints Health. Ugh.

[InkedMarie]

I used K9 Liquid Gold with very good results. My holistic vet says straight glucosamine. You can get pills, powder and liquid. I currently use Swanson vitamins Joint Mobility plus; she also gets green lipped mussel and benefits hips & knees (it’s a Chinese herb).

[theBCnut]

I would start a joint supplement, just like you are planning to do anyways. Get a few different ones, some work better than others and it really is a matter of what works for your dog. If the clicking stops, you’ve found the right one.

[A.Sandy]

Hello, don’t stress out so much as long as your dog isn’t showing pain or sensitivity in those areas, and the vet says all is fine, then everything might be truly ok. I have A Dane and his legs pop every now and then but he is fine I just give him his joint rescue jerky ,add coconut oil in his food, and add NZYMES. But if you need to get x rays go ahead its always better to be sure. My dog got a little stiff during cold weather last year and I got really scared but I gave him NZYMES and he was up and about within days. NZYMES rebuild tissue , help prevent cancer, and help with over all health in so many ways. And remember portion control food because feeding too much may cause growth issues. good luck!

– Ana
@pupfacts
pupcatnutrition.com

[wallyworld]

Hi,
I’m worrying myself to death and don’t know where to turn. I have a 70lb. Goldendoodle that will be 1 yr this month. I have been very careful about the food I feed, watching calcium, calories etc. I am aware of HDM’s LBP food list. Since he was a few months old he has clicking sounds from either his hips or knees and his feet make a popping sound sometimes when walking on carpet. Taken him to 2 diff vets and both say he seems fine, don’t worry unless he shows serious problems and X-rays can’t be ‘verified’ until 2 years of age. I worry about everything with him and notice the slightest changes whether they are anything or not. I will be starting a joint supplement and fish/coconut oil. I don’t have the money to get comprehensive testing done or to keep taking him to vets that tell me the same thing. He seems to walk fine but today I thought I noticed he was laying on one side more than the other and I thought I noticed him walking with a straighter left rear leg. I may be worrying over nothing but I’m not sure. I lost my little dog last year suddenly to syringomyelia and was traumatized by the whole event. I just need some reassurance or advice!

[Tambourineman]

Since my other thread was hijacked I am starting a new one.

Can anyone recommend any tasty (prescription) joint health dog food with high glucosamine, MSM, omega 3 and 6′s but no corn, rice, gluten and other bad stuff?

Alternately a tasty supplement with glucosamine, MSM, omega 3 and 6′s. My dog used to eat such a pill (NaturVet hip and joint) thrown in with his kibble, but no longer. He won’t eat them even coated with peanut butter or the like.

[theBCnut]

I’m pretty sure I know that none of the OTC joint foods even have close to a therapeutic dose of joint supplements and all the prescription ones I know of are junk.

Jefferspet dot com may be another place to look for different options.

I give my old lady turkey necks and chicken necks, because they have a lot of cartilage and connective tissue in them.

[Tambourineman]

Can anyone recommend any tasty (prescription) joint health dog food with high glucosamine, MSM, omega 3 and 6’s but no corn, rice, gluten and other bad stuff?

Alternately a tasty supplement with glucosamine, MSM, omega 3 and 6’s. My dog used to eat such a pill (NaturVet hip and joint) thrown in with his kibble, but no longer. He won’t eat them even coated with peanut butter or the like.

[theBCnut]

The calcium level in your current food is really high enough, maybe too high. I wouldn’t add more. A good joint supplement is much more likely to offer some help.

[Tambourineman]

I have a 14 year old lab with bad arthritis. An xray disclosed he also has a lesion on his vertebrae. So he has a lot of trouble getting up and around.

Due to his age we have not opted for surgery for his spine as we think it would be too much for him.

We give him EVO Senior which does have some calcium (2.10%). I regret to say he also gets a strip and a half of bacon which is used to hide the many meds he takes (Gabapentin, 3 tramadol, Rimadyl, and Amantadine) He now rejects pill pockets which he used to gulp like dog treats (we have tried peanut butter, cream cheese, bread, swedish meatballs, turkey hot dogs, a pill popper tool, etc., etc.) Bacon is the only thing that works and at his age not getting his meds would be worse than having some bacon.

Anyway, I am wondering if some more calcium would help with respect to building the bone in his vertebrae back up. As an experiment I ground up some Citrical and put it in his food and unlike when other meds are mixed with food he will eat it. (He no longer chews bones so he does not get any calcium that way.) I’ve read that some add ground up egg shells.

the dog food project says this about calcium: “. . . The correct ratio of calcium to phosphorus and magnesium is very important for a dog’s health and needs to be carefully balanced – this is not something you would want to do without doing your research on the topic!” . . .

“Excess intake of calcium results in growth retardation and severe bone and joint abnormalities. [Presumably this applies to puppies] When feeding a quality pet food, supplementation of calcium *** during growth *** is unnecessary, and potentially very dangerous.
Note: Excess calcium causes decreased phosphorus absorption (and vice versa!). Lack of magnesium in the diet renders calcium useless, because the body needs magnesium to properly absorb calcium. If adequate amounts of all 3 of these minerals are present int he diet, the body can regulate the balance according to its needs.”

Citrical includes 20% magnesium (80 mg) and also Vitamin D

Any thoughts?

[RescueDaneMom]

I’m currently using the Joint Health powder for dogs. So far so good. I don’t see any miraculous improvement with Max’s arthritis but I know it’s helping some as his joints don’t pop all the time like they do when a supplement is clearly not working. I’m going to try Cortaflex next.

Marie- how did the Bug Off Garlic work for you? I was thinking about trying it.

-Caroline

[Mom2Cavs]

I’ve used the regular joint health chews and the advanced joint chews when they came out. With Desi, my now deceased Shih-Poo who had both rear luxating patellas that were bad, I used the regular joint health and they kept him surgery free all his life. Of course, I did curtail his jumping a little. Once Lucy apparently pulled a muscle in her leg (or something?) and I immediately started giving her the advanced chews. She was better in no time! I love Springtime supplements and have used them for many years for my dogs.

[Melissaandcrew]

I have used springtime products in the past for my(then) older horses with wonderful results. One of my 15 plus year olds is starting to show arthritis/mobility issues so I placed an order with them that I just received today. Just curious-has any one tried the Longevity or the Advanced Joint and Hip chewables? Since they have a sale going on, I bought two bottles of the human joint product(for me and hubby) got 1 free, and bought two bottles of the Longevity powder, and received one free. Then, they threw in another bottle of the Longevity for free as well as the Advanced Joint and hip. Just started Murphy on it today, but wondering if any one had any specific experiences with these particular products?

[RescueDaneMom]

Thanks Patty!

[theBCnut]

It’s actually 2-3cc for 100 lbs, so 3-4.5cc

[RescueDaneMom]

Thanks Patty! Max is about 150 so he would get 3cc, right?

[theBCnut]

I get Cortaflex from Jefferspet dot com and I give my JRT just 0.2cc. A 100 lb dog would get 2cc.

[InkedMarie]

K9 Liquid Gold is something I used a few years back with good luck and one place I found it was at a feed store.

[FreeholdHound]

I saw that at the feed store! I didn’t pick it up because I couldn’t reach it lol. I am thrilled that I now know can buy Earthborn Holistic GPF there. I had given up on buying Harry’s food anywhere but online. I will have to stop back in for the Cortaflex. I love it when I can buy locally.

[RescueDaneMom]

Patty-

I just googled it. It looks amazing and I really want to try it! Where do you buy it from?

edit- also what is the dosage for dogs?

-Caroline

• This reply was modified 11 years, 11 months ago by RescueDaneMom.

[theBCnut]

As a horse owner then, I want to recommend Cortaflex to you for joint support in dogs. It is my favorite and so far it’s the one that works the best.

[FreeholdHound]

…. As a former horse owner I should’ve thought of this sooner, I’m constantly comparing Harry to my horse lol

[RescueDaneMom]

Thanks for the thought, Jeanne. Let me know if you don’t find the Actiflex at your feed store. I still have more than half of the quart size left. I’ll mail it to you. 😉

[theBCnut]

I’ve noticed the same thing with glucosamine in my horse that needs joint supplements.

[FreeholdHound]

Thanks! I wish I hadn’t tossed the Springtime Joint Health – I would’ve mailed it to you!!

Jeanne

[RescueDaneMom]

I tried the Actiflex and it didn’t work for Max. I’ve noticed that products that have glucosamine sulfate don’t work for him but those that have glucosamin hcl do. I’m giving him Springtime Joint Health powder right now. I mix it in his food and he gobbles it down. It seems to be working pretty good so far.

Good luck with the Actiflex. I hope it works for Harry. 🙂

[FreeholdHound]

Glad to have found this thread as I’m just now thinking of adding a Joint Supplement into my Greyhound’s diet. I was looking at options online but decided to check here to see if there was a thread & as always when needed there was 🙂 The Actiflex 4000 sounds like a good idea, and reasonable. I tried the Springtime Joint Health & Harry wouldn’t go near it now matter how I disguised it. I will have to swing by my local feed store & see if they carry it.

[theBCnut]

Remember that those are higher calorie foods so he should need less of them than he did of Pedigree. If he is eating around 3 cups a day don’t worry. It’s good to let a large breed pup grow up thin so they don’t have extra stress on their hips. Large breed pups have special needs when it comes to food. Too much calcium can make their bones grow too fast so their joints don’t form properly. Here is a list of foods that Hound Dog Mom put together that have the right amount of calcium for large breed pups.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?srcid=0BwApI_dhlbnFTXhUdi1KazFzSUk&pid=explorer&efh=false&a=v
There is also a thread discussing large breed puppy nutrition issues under Diet and Health Issues.