[theBCnut]

Those smoked bones often have chemical smoked flavoring. If they are truly smoked, they are cooked. If they aren’t cooked, they are chemically.

Nancy, your plan sounds good.

[Cyndi]

C4C, I wouldn’t get those smoked bones sold in pet stores. My ex boyfriend used to get those for his pitbull and they break off into big shards of hard bone. I was horrified at the size of the pieces and the sharpness of them. Never again!

[Nancy C]

Thank you! I just went to MPCarnivore and they have a limited time special for 20 POUNDS of lamb bones for $30. This is an assortment of bones. Wondering if anyone has gotten these yet? Hard for me to know exactly what an assortment is, and if they are too small I suppose they’d not be good for a large dog.

Thank you, BC for your additional comments. I will watch him to see what his bone eating style is.

Tracy at Hare emailed suggesting that I stick to ONE PROTEIN for several weeks when I start the raw feeding. She recommended Chicken or Turkey because they have more bones. This makes sense. It sounds like chicken backs, chicken quarters, wings and even drumsticks or bone in thighs will be good also. Since my Golden Retriever (almost 11 yrs old) transitioned cold turkey to Big Dog Natural without a hint of trouble I think I will start with Big Dog Natural for my GSD and use the Turkey and Chicken formulas. It’s air dried and all of it has tripe and fermented veggies which increase digestibility. So I could feed a Chicken quarter at night several nights a week, right? then after several weeks move to beef. How does that sound?

Thank you again so much for your help!

[crazy4cats]

Are the smoked bones that are at a lot of the pet stores considered cooked? I’ve seen smoked ribs and knuckle bones at Petsmart and some feed stores.

[theBCnut]

I get beef and pork ribs from the butcher. I raise my own goats(and now a steer too). I also order from Hare Today and My Pet Carnivore.

Your GSD will chew them up, and then because they are NOT cooked, he will digest the pieces. To start with, you do have to keep a close eye on your dog to make sure they actually gnaw instead of trying to gulp the whole thing, so it is best to start with bones that are really too big for him to even think that he can swallow them. He will learn than he has to eat them instead of gulping. Some people have had to try tricks to slow their dog down, like attaching vise grips, but that isn’t common.

All cooked bones are dangerous. They will definitely splinter. Chewing raw bones will definitely help clean his teeth, though he may prefer to chew on one side more than another and you may have to hold a bone so that he has to chew on the other side. I used to have to do this with one of mine, but somewhere along the way I no longer have to do that.

[Nancy C]

Where do you get them? (The grocery store?) And what do you ask for specifically?
I’m worried my GSD will bite them up to pieces but perhaps that’s what they are SUPPOSED to do. (?) I am beyond green on this subject but know I need to get him started. Choking worries me. I guess splintering does not happen with raw.
He’s got tartar and build up on his teeth but my understanding is that the scraping on the bones will really clean that off. ?? Thank you!

[Nancy C]

Can some of you give me some advice as to where to find and what to get for my German Shepherd 75 pound 2 yr old dog? His teeth need cleaning. I am going to start RAW feeding soon. I understand that weight bearing bones are out – too hard and great for tooth cracking. I know about duck and turkey necks but wondering if there is anything in the goat, beef or llama department that any of you has tried. I am totally GREEN GREEN in this activity of bones yet they are important.

Thanks so much for whoever can help!

[Naturella]

Victoria,

I feel for you! A few of us here have had our fair share of stubborn dog owners who just refuse to get the facts and do what is truly good for their companion…

That Ol’ Roy is crap, you obviously know… I guess, if you can, try to get a small bag of Walmart’s Pure Balance/Pure Balance Grain Free (two of the more decent foods sold at Walmart), and maybe entice the family to try and add some to Ol’ Roy, see how their dogs like it. When I added some of the food I feed my dog to the food of the dog of the family for whom I babysit, she did not want to touch her Kibbles ‘N’ Bits anymore at all! Lol, she knew the good stuff! Maybe this will help them – plus, Pure Balance is ALSO sold at Walmart, where Ol’ Roy is.

Another thing you could do, is just add some good canned food as a topper to their meals, or a raw/lightly cooked egg here and there, some canned sardines, coconut oil if you have/can afford it, and some plain yoghurt and canned pumpkin (plain, not the pie-filling stuff). That’s what I do even with better-quality kibble and I believe it helps. If you can throw some raw/lightly cooked meat in there, or raw meaty bones here and there, it should help improve their diet a TAD, but really do try to get them off of Ol’ Roy…

Good luck, and know that many of us have been there too!

[Bobby dog]

Those are really, really nice pictures!!!! Love them all.

That is a big bone, glad you found it! I only feed the pate’ style of Wellness. And the only fish variety I feed of that is the chicken and herring, I’ll be on the lookout for bones. I am glad I am in the habit of smushing and chopping up their food before I feed it. If I don’t they are too messy eating it, most of the time dragging it out of the bowl and eating it on the floor. lol

Bobby loves the Wellness canned, but he is a pig. I have only fed the Core and 95% and I always mix with water too, just enough to make an extra, extra thick gravy consistency.

[Akari_32]

When I put the steps in moms room, I put them to the night stand. They are the same height, but the night stand provides Ginger and Bentley that extra room to get up on to the bed, rather than a shear drop from the bed to the stairs. Moms bed is 31 inches tall, which we couldn’t find any stairs to reach, so we decided the night stand was a good height. It is for Bentley, but just a bit too tall for old Ginger. I’ll be finding a rug and a bit of 4×4 to make an extra step on the night stand, and make the surface non-slip (again, not a problem for Bentley, but a problem for Gingers short little legs and old bones).

I actually bought the Toy Breed for my almost 12-year-old, 60 lb retriever mix, Haley, because it’s high in calories, and she doesn’t like to eat much. Got a bunch if 2 and 4 lb bags free with coupons, along with the Wellness Senior cans :p Having only $10 a week budgeted for now three dogs (12, 60 and 130 lb), a cat, and various fish and reptiles, I’m oportunistic with my pet food coupon deals (but not so much so that I’ll buy food of questionable quality– I still have standards, which works out for me with the great Wellness deals I get). I typically buy puppy foods because of Haley, but the protein and calories on this line were where I wanted them for the most part, and is figured variety is the spice of life LOL

Also, the small kibble size seems to be working well for Ginger because of her teeth. They are just so gross, and I imagine they hurt to some degree. I don’t think this dog has ever seen a bone of any kind in her life. I do plan on seeing how she does on other foods I’ve got stashed away that have larger kibble sizes though. I’ve got one 6lb bag of Pro Plan small breed puppy (only cost my 3 bucks!) and about 15 lbs of Nutro Natural Choice puppy that all have larger kibbles (and of course my bunches of Wellness Toy Breed lol). I’ve got some EVO in the freezer, but those are like as big as her eye, so I think that’s out of the question…

[Naturella]

Hey, T. I second Sue on not giving leftovers. When you first said “human food”, I thought you meant things like raw/cooked lean meats and veggies (no seasonings or only such that are dog-friendly, like cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, a little bit of garlic). Yoghurt is ok, but only if it is plain – not the sweet-ish, fruity-ish stuff a lot of us eat. Noodles are sometimes okay if that’s all they are – one noodle (he really doesn’t NEED it though), and not covered in pasta sauce and seasonings. Cheetos are not very good for humans or pets (they contain formaldehyde and burn like they’re made of pure petrol if you set them on fire).
Bottom line – anything on your plate for dinner is PROBABLY not good for your doggie, especially cooked bones of any kind, because they could splinter and cause all kinds of internal disasters if he/she doesn’t choke on them first.

Good news though! What you CAN give to your dog are raw or lightly cooked lean meats (no bone) and veggies/fruits, eggs (probably just 1 egg/week for a teeny dog like a yorkie), canned sardines in water with no salt added (their spinal bone is okay to give), plain yoghurt/kefir, and safe seasonings like the ones mentioned above (a pinch of cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, garlic are totally fine). Also coconut oil and canned pumpkin (the plain one, not the pie-filling cans) – the latter can help your dog’s tummy when introducing new foods. You can add a teaspoon of canned pumpkin with every meal at which new food is present, and watch the stool. If it is still bad, back off the new food, and give just pumpkin or just his BB kibble until the stool is normal. Sometimes probiotics and digestive enzymes may help strengthen his/her gut too.

It is really good to supplement a dry kibble with canned or otherwise wetter food, or any of the fresh foods mentioned above. So maybe try that for your pup, and good luck!

[Bobby dog]

Hi Kristin:
I am not sure about amounts to feed smaller dogs. But, if I could relay one thing to you it would be to take notice of his appearance. Take the time to feel him to see if there is too much on those little bones or too little. I believe that is very important because each dog is different as far as how much food they need. I tweek Bobby’s food amounts now and then and up the exercise when needed. Bobby always requires the least amount of any food I feed; granted most companies probably suggest feeding more of their product than necessary!

The only advice I can give you is to add up those calories to determine if it is too much for him. It might not be exact, but you should come pretty close so you can figure out the appropriate amounts of each food for your little guy.

Hopefully some smaller dog owners will be by with some advice for you! 🙂

[Julian R]

Hi Kristin,
I adopted my chow/akita mix almost two years ago and I started feeding him raw meats more or less after a month of his arrival. I started slow, mixing ground beef with canned wet food. I eliminated kibble right away or should I say he rejected it once he was presented with an alternative diet. After about a month of a raw/canned mix, I just fed him raw meats. Once I have made the full decision of a raw diet I searched for commercially available raw meats (http://www.darwinspet.com) but it was not a cheap option. I turned to my local meat markets and bought chicken (breasts, necks, hearts, thighs), turkey legs (cut in pieces), pork neck bones, beef kidney and heart, and ground beef. I followed the advise from (http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjhomemade2.html) to understand the proportions needed (lean meat:bone:fat:organs).
Now let me provide potential answers for some of your questions.
How much raw food per day should I feed him? Raw diet is more nutritious than kibble and canned food so there is not need to feed them as much. Based on your dogs desired weight I would estimate 3-3.5 oz daily.
Should I start out getting packaged raw food? It tends to be more expensive and if there are good meat markets in your area with a good selection, you can buy what you need at a lower price.
Should I just give him the bones or grind them up? Most dogs can handle bone (make sure they are uncooked) but one has to be careful since choking can still happen. Avoid chicken necks since they can cause choking in small dogs. Pork necks are a good option since they are meaty and dogs can easily break them (at least medium-large dogs). Now since you have a small dog you can give him small pork neck bones but not too small that he will try to swallow it whole. Supervision is key here.
What meats can he eat? chicken, beef, pork, venison, rabbit, turkey, duck, lamb, etc
What should his daily, weekly, etc… diet consist of? The article in dogaware.com provides a very straightforward guide to establish your weekly dog diet, in summary it states that it should be 30-50 % meaty bones, 45-65 % lean meat (including eggs and dairy products) and 5% or less of organ meat.
How slowly should I introduce him to raw food? Start slow mixing 3/4 of of his usual food with 1/4 of raw. Increase slowly over a 2-4 week period.
What meats are good to introduce/start out with? Chicken is usually a good start and lean ground beef is also good. Do not feed him chicken with the skin since it will be too rich for him.
What things should I get to start out with(what kind of meat grinder, what kind of storage containers, etc…)? I don’t use a meat grinder and most likely you can ask your local butcher to do the grinding you need. I ended up buying a freezer for his food and I thaw enough for 2-3 days inside the refrigerator. I keep thawed food in a closed large glass container inside the refrigerator.
How should I handle the meat? I have a cutting board, knife and other utensils to handle his food which I do not use for anything else. I wash everything with plenty of dish soap and hot water. I obviously I wash my hands thoroughly after handling raw meats. How much will this cost per month? For my 62 pound, I spend in average $70 a month. What veggies and fruits should I include in his diet daily, weekly, etc…??? About 6 months ago, I found out about a dog raw food vendor that distributes a great variety of raw food in NJ, CT, MA, NH, and VT. (http://www.topqualitydogfood.com/). They don’t mail so one has to picked up at specific services areas where they stop and it is once a month only. Anyway, they have meats mix with veggies and fruits which I give to my dog. You can see more information about giving vegetables and fruits to your dog. Keep in mind that vegetables should be preferably cooked and give as a puree mixed with meat for better absorption. How much low-fat cottage cheese, veggies, etc… should I feed him daily, weekly, etc…??? Cheese is as an occasional part of his diet but I dont feed him daily perhaps once a week but not too much.
What kind of fish can he eat? most fish except salmon or trout fromPacific Northwest. I feed my dog Chilean Salmon.
Should I add fish oil or probiotics or whatever else to his daily, weekly, etc… diet?? It is recommended to complement his diet with fish oil. I am not sure about probiotics, though.

I advise you to take a look at the books recommended if you can or at least check the websites. Also, try to connect with owners of small dogs that feed them raw. I strongly believe it is the best diet for dogs but it requires some learning from the owner.

[Akari_32]

Nails are done! Whoo! I tried to do them myself, but my clippers are just too small. I did trim them, at least.

But today at the vet, we had some down time, so I walked home and grabbed Ginger, and walked back over. Managed to muzzle her in one try, and got her flipped on her side to hold her down very easily.

I feel like if we had rushed into this sooner, she would have been so stressed and scared. But she didn’t even growl or try to bite. I held her down while the tech I’m shadowing did the cutting. When I get some bigger clippers, I’ll try it at home again, when it’s time to do it, of course. I’ll have someone hold her while I cut. Hopefully, though, daily walks will keep them down at this point.

Speaking of walks, when we were walking home, I started up the driveway, and she was still walking down the sidewalk LOL She really loves to walk. We walked about a half mile yesterday, and we got home and she was just so happy. I’ve never seen her eyes so bright, despite the fact she was so so tired out her tounge was almost touching the floor, even with her head held up LOL I always say I hate Flexi leashes, but I do walk her and Haley on one. She has such little legs that she lags behind if she’s not running (you know she’s excited when she’s running LOL), and I don’t want her to tangle in the leash. She also stops abruptly for potty breaks, and I don’t want to jerk her (and hurt her) on accident. And then Haley just needs a quiet verbal command, or even a just hearing the lock start to click on the leash to know what I want her to do. And neither of them approach random people we pass, either. But you’ll never catch me walking a dog like Bentley on a Flexi leash! He’s stupid enough to run out into the road or run up to dogs that clearly want to eat him. The only Flexi leash I would consider for him is the Flexi City, which is a 6ft retractable, and is absolutely genius. But I ain’t paying $20+ for a leash, so that’ll never happen unless I find one at goodwill (where I got my other two full size ones lol). He gets tangled in his leash all the time because he can’t just walk in a straight line like a normal dog. I hate walking him sometimes, but someone’s gotta do it… Lol

Anyway… Lol Ginger is doing good, and eating well. I started her on a 1/2 teaspoon of keifer every day, and her poops look much better than they have been. Not all runny and smelly like they’ve been the last week. I think I’ll just keep her on it every day. I’ve been giving it to Bentley as well, the same amount, to mix the SSLL mix into, along with some canned food and coconut oil or fish oil. I also need to up her food, I think. I’ve been giving her 1/3 cup with a couple tablespoons of canned Wellness Senior (my free cans! LOL), but I think I’ll start giving her a little more of the dry, especially since she loves walks so much. Gotta keep some meat on her bones.

That’s all I’ve got for now, I think. She’s passed out on the couch, sleeping off her nail trim lol

[Kellye P]

My little poodle has been diabetic for 4 years. His glucose levels are good. I have had every imaginable test run on him to find out why he can’t gain weight. Everything checks out perfectly except one time his electrolytes were off. I now put an electrolyte powder in his water. He was 10 lbs when diagnosed and is now 6 pounds. Every bone in his body sticks out. I take him to a Traditional Chinese Medicine vet, an acupunture specialist, and his regular vet. He is on Vetsulin and thyroid. I give him Caniotic probiotics, coconut oil and digestive enzymes. I have gone raw, dehydrated, bought recipes at Balance It, bought recipes from a California company that makes food based on their vet’s advice, tried Sojo’s and other “add meat” foods, dry food, canned food, etc. I have tried everything. High fat foods make him throw up. It is breaking my heart that we are heading back into winter and he’s skin and bones. Yes, he stays inside and wears shirts or sweaters all year, but he is way too skinny.

[Naturella]

Yeah, I thought I almost killed the poor pup with them lamb bones, lol. He did have good stool and everything after the original post’s situation.

Bruno’s don’t last too long either… I think I will try the whole throat massaging next time, but I usually just pet him on the back and tell him everything’s okay and he will be alright.

And yes, little Maltese is so cute, doesn’t seem distraught much from its reverse sneezing. 🙂

[James D]

Thanks for the input. I’m looking into the options you’ve both mentioned but have yet to find those brands in my area. The highest options I’ve found is the Blue Wilderness brand. Any bad feeling about them?

As for chews I’ll check out the antlers and the knuckles. I’ve had a friend give them to his lab mixes but they are more lickers then chewers. How do you feel about the edible nylabones?

[crazy4cats]

Hi James D-
Welcome to DFA! I’m glad you pulled the trigger! I feed my dogs grain free Victor with various toppers. They have a grain free Ultra Pro formula that is 42% protein and 22% fat that might be a good option. Also Nutrisource has a few formulas for active dogs that are a lot higher in calories than average.
As for the chews I can totally relate. I have two golden labs that compete for food so they tend to gulp things before they should. They have actually passed a few socks. Yikes! I feed them thick bullysticks that are attached to vice grips that prevent them from swallowing too soon. I also,give them raw marrow bones that are at least 4 inches or bigger. However, some don’t recommend marrow bones for fear of breaking teeth. So far so good! I’m thinking of trying knuckle bones next.

[Kristin D]

I want to start feeding my 5 year old Miniature Dachshund,Oscar,raw or cooked food. Any advice at all would be SOOOOOO helpful!!!!!:) Oscar is a couple pounds overweight right now because I was on vacation for a week and he stayed at a family member’s house. She didn’t walk him because I didn’t think about asking her to(silly me!!! *Face palm* Lol!!!)and she has a dog who grazes, so Oscar would always eat some(probably most)of his food. Right now he weighs 13 pounds, but I would like to get him down to about 10 pounds(I walk him just about everyday, so he should be back in shape in no time!!!). Now for “some” QUESTIONS!!!!:D YAAAAAY!!!! Lol!!!;P How much raw food per day should I feed him??? Should I start out getting packaged raw food??? Should I just give him the bones or grind them up??? What meats can he eat??? What should his daily, weekly, etc… diet consist of??? How much of what should I feed him weekly, daily, etc…??? How slowly should I introduce him to raw food??? What meats are good to introduce/start out with??? What things should I get to start out with(what kind of meat grinder, what kind of storage containers, etc…)??? What are some good books I should read??? What are some good sources(websites)I should check out??? How should I handle the meat??? How do I clean up and things like that??? Where should I get the meat??? What should I look for in the meat??? How much will this cost per month??? What veggies and fruits should I include in his diet daily, weekly, etc…??? How much low-fat cottage cheese, veggies, etc… should I feed him daily, weekly, etc…??? What kind of fish can he eat??? Should I add fish oil or probiotics or whatever else to his daily, weekly, etc… diet??? That’s it for now!!! Don’t worry, I’ll be back with MORE!!!!:D Lol!!!;P Thanks guys!!!:D

• This topic was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Kristin D.

[Naturella]

C4C, we also use vice-grips… Doesn’t slow Bru down too much, just prevents the swallowing of a big piece, like you said.

I have also wondered about smoked bones and have given Bruno a rack of smoked lamb ribs from Best Bully Sticks, but they worry me the way they break… I only gave Bruno one then took it away when the pieces looked too splintery and sharp… I tend to stick with raw marrow bones and dehydrated necks, feet, chews, etc. vs. the smoked ones… For my own peace of mind. 🙂

[Naturella]

Cotons mom,

I have a 13.5-lb JR-Rat Terrier mix, so he’s right in between the sizes of your two dogs.

Once a week I give him either a chicken back, or a beef/pork neck piece (RMBs) as a meal (Sunday night). For recreation, I have given raw marrow bones, about 2-inches long, maybe a bit less, from my local Publix (they sell the longer ones and the short ones, they call them soup bones). Chicken backs and beef/pork neck pieces also come from there. I have noticed Publix is very responsive to customer demand and I believe they have had customers request those pieces so they decided to sell them. I would also give Bruno raw chicken necks, and turkey neck pieces. I have given him a rabbit neck before too.

He has never choked, and he works on them diligently. The marrow bone he gets once a month, so he doesn’t get excessive fat from the marrow especially because I also feed coconut oil a few times/week and canned fish once/week. Once the marrow is gone, sometimes I would take the bone and fill it with a variation of “doggie ice-cream”) – plain yoghurt, coconut oil, turmeric, peanut butter, pinch of cinnamon, pinch of ground flax seeds as a base, and either some berries and/or bananas, or some canned pumpkin/sweet potato. Blend together, fill the bone and freeze it, and give once/week until it is time for his next marrow serving – that’s what I do at least. Bruno loves it to bits.

• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Naturella.

[Cotons mom]

OK I have two cottons both a year old. I am really interested in giving them raw bones both for recreation and meals but am so afraid of them choking. The little guy is 10 pounds and his sister is 17 pounds. I feel them a raw diet (primal, S&C, and a few others) and give them frozen/defrosted tripe from vital essentials.

What animal size would be appropriate for them? and do I need to take the marrow out of the marrow bones to keep them from getting too much fat and then GI distress?

Thanks so much

[crazy4cats]

Hi Travis and All!
I give my two dogs that are about 80lbs each bully sticks, pigs ears and large marrow bones. I put the bully sticks in vice grips to slow them down a bit and prevent them from swallowing them. I’m wondering what anyone thinks of the smoked bones found in many pet stores. Are they considered cooked when they are smoked? Best Bully Sticks advertises their bones as smoked also. I’d like to try a knuckle bone, as they are often recommended for large dogs. Happy Saturday and Go Huskies!

[Naturella]

Hey, Travis!

Well, you asked for personal experiences and here is mine. I got Bruno when he was 4-6 months old (probably around 5-6). He was changing teeth and needed some serious chew supply. He is an avid chewer ever since. He really likes “meaty” chews like bully sticks, tracheas, gullet strips, cow/pig/lamb ears/snouts, fish skins, etc. However, they do not last him too long.

I did give him an antler as a puppy and have never stopped since. It contains good minerals and lasts a WHILE! It never hurt his teeth – not even the puppy ones, them sharp bastards! lol But, if you want, you can try your pups with a split antler – it doesn’t last that long, but it is mostly the inside “marrow” part, which is must softer and gentler. But for me, I always have to have an antler on hand, plus one to have when the first one is chewed to a nickel-sized piece, when I take it away (Bruno is 13.5lbs). But I have a great pet specialty store with seriously the best AND most affordable antlers I have seen, if I move from this area I will drop at least $70 but stock up on them antlers! Lol.

Other “long-lasting” chews are the Himalayan Dog Chew (super hard, dry yak cheese), raw marrow bones,. and the bull horns as aquariangt said. Bruno likes it all, just give him something to gnaw on, lol, but antlers keep his interest the most and last him the longest, so they are our household favorite. 🙂

[Travis A]

Ok thank you very much, we did have some of the marrow fille bones you mention and they do like those quite a bit. I may hold off on the antlers till they are closer to a year or older, are Raw bones from a butcher the best for them or do they still pose a risk of splintering and bacteria and what not?

[aquariangt]

at 8 months antlers could still be worrisome, but if you want to go for it, try to find moose instead of elk-they’re a bit softer. The horns don’t really chip off any different than a rib bone. Frozen marrow bones are great as well if you can find a place that carries them. Once they’ve gotten the marrow out you can refreeze them with peanut butter or canned food or rehydrated raw food, so it works for a nice long time.

[Travis A]

Thank you for the advice I appreciate it, my boys are 8 months old right now but over 50 lbs could be over 60 idk i haven’t weighed them in a little while. The horns i was actually trying to look into as well, i’ve seen those around i thought they would be more likely to break into sharp pieces though. IDK i’m just not a big fan of what i hear on the bully sticks not to mention smell and any mess they leave of course i’m sure there are good and bad ones as such with all products. They currently have chewed on generic cheaper rib bones and regular bones, but honestly those were from the dollar store so i don”t want to continue with those. The rib bone actually is still going they seem to like the marrow in it so they chew it slower. I may try the horns or a sampler of the antlers, i’ll probably steer clear of the bullysticks for now though.

[Hound Dog Mom]

Hi Louis –

It’s great that you’re being proactive about your dog’s dental health! 🙂

Unfortunately, the Milk Bone brand dental chews contain very unhealthy ingredients (kind of the canine equivalent of a candy bar for us humans!). The good news is there are a lot of healthy chews available that I’m sure your dog will love just as much.

My number one recommendation for a healthy and effective dental chew is raw meaty bones. My dogs are fed an entirely raw diet and their dinner every night consists of raw meaty bones, but raw meaty bones can be fed to dogs that don’t eat raw as well. The best options for small dogs are things like chicken necks, wings and feet. Larger dogs do well with items like chicken backs, chicken quarters, pork necks and turkey necks.

If you’re not comfortable with feeding raw (which is completely understandable, many aren’t) the next best option would be a natural chew – things like bully sticks, dried trachea, pig ears, etc. These treats are high in protein and low in carbohydrates making them species-appropriate and healthy – plus dogs go nuts for them! Just be sure to get these types of treats from a reputable supplier (avoid treats imported from China!). A great site to order chews from is BestBullySticks.com – they have a wide selection and their chews are sourced from free-range Brazilian cattle.

While I do feel that RMBs and natural chews are a much better option than commercial dental treats, if you do choose to go with a commercial dental treat there are some things to look out for. The vast majority of commercial dental treats are loaded with unhealthy ingredients (like the Milk Bone dental chews) but there are a few out there that aren’t so bad. You just have to be sure to always read the ingredient list – avoid items like propylene glycol, artificial colorings, corn, wheat, soy, by-products, digests, etc. The downside to commercial dental chews is that, for the most part, they’re all fairly carb-heavy (even the healthier options) and they’re typically very expensive (RMBs are cheap!). A few commercial dental chews that I would feel comfortable recommending: Zuke’s Z-Bones, Cloud Star Dynamo Dog Dental Bones, Halo Spot’s Chew, Get Naked Dental Chew Sticks, Newman’s Own Organics Dental Bones and Nature’s Recipe Pure Essentials Dental Chews.

Also, be sure that you’re brushing your dogs teeth regularly (at least three times per week) – while dental chews are certainly a valuable tool for dental health, the only way to ensure optimal dental health is through brushing.

• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.
• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.
• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.
• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by Hound Dog Mom.

[aquariangt]

Bestbullysticks.com has a lot of good chew options. My personal favorites are rib bones and stuffed aortas. Most smaller scale pet stores have a nice selection of chews as well

[Travis A]

I’m trying to find something for my 2 boys Pit/Shepherd mixes. I want something that’s durable where they won’t eat it all in one setting. I would say they are average chewers nothing overly aggressive. I hear the Antlers are good but could risk teeth damange, which is odd because it promotes good dental health so idk what to think. The bully sticks i hear about bad manufacturing of them which leads to dogs getting sick. Id really rather have a bone or antler something they can work on for a while. What would be the best options and best places to find them? Thank you very much.

[neezerfan]

I got my dog from a rescue at age 2 1/2. At that time the vet said he was underweight. He was 12 lbs, she said she’d like to see him at 13 or 14 lbs. His ribs and hip bones were prominent. I started him on the rotational diet I’m feeding my other dog(different brands, proteins, raw, canned,dried). He developed large,loose stools(cow patty type). I tried to figure what was bothering him. Was it the lamb, carageenan? Couldn’t figure it out. When I clipped his hair down for the hot weather and saw how thin he still was, weighed him and saw he had actually lost a half a pound, to the vet we went. She tested him for EPI and that was negative, so suggested we start with the limited ingredient diet. It’s working wonderfully for him, his poops are normal, he’s holding steady at 14 lbs. But I’m a DFA dogfoodie! I want some alternatives for him. I asked the vet to try the potato and rabbit but she wants me to wait for that another 3 months. He does like the food, so that’s not a problem.

[Akari_32]

He told mom to email him the next time we place an order, so it doesn’t happen again. Very strange, either way lol.

Today is day two of raw! Yesterday mom did it all by herself. I left out the measured out mix in a medicine cup, and put his food for the day in the fridge to thaw the night before so it’d be ready for her. I left her 5oz of boneless chicken, so she didn’t have to deal with him dragging the bones around, and she could add the mix right to the meat instead of getting creative and trying to figure out what to do with it with no meat to easily add it to.

Today, I gave him a chicken wing (and a random liver I threw in the bag when prepping it lol), and used some Nutro Ultra Boost canned food to put the mix in. Didn’t work out very well, and ended up using some water to add to it (that canned food is very thick!), which still didn’t work very well. He ended up eating it anyways, though. I made him eat most of it before giving him the meat, and took the bedding out of his cage and locked him in so he couldn’t drag the wing around the house and eat it on the furniture lol This also forced him to lick the rest of the mix out of the bowl when he was done with the wing. I’ll buy some yogurt at work today for the next time I give him a meal with a bone. That’ll be easier to mix… Lol

Tomorrow is beef hearts! One of his favorites :p And after tomorrow, the pork will be ready to use, so that’ll be easier with the mix as well.

[Tom L]

We recently acquired an overweight (78#) 12 year old Labrador with severe joint disease who can have limited walks and exercise due to bones rubbing on bones. This is a loving female who loves to eat and likes snacks and treats. Our vet recommended feeding her Science Diet Senior Food 1 cup in the morning and 1 cup at night along with supplements.
She hasn’t lost any weight and is always looking for snacks. We are concerned that this is the correct food for our overweight dog. Ideally, we would like to give her 3 small servings a day. Tom L.

[momtopoms]

If you live in Texas there is Texas Tripe. They have set delivery routes through a lot of Texas (not west Texas). They sell grinds and raw meaty bones. I also order from Hare Today.

[Nancy M]

Once and again, many thanks on this. Great information to go forward with. And OMG, 1,000cc’s? That’s unbelievable! I thought 240 was bad! It’s just awful!

BTW, I’m assuming that you feed the canned Royal Canin? If it’s prescription, your vet must carry it? Mine does not, so I would probably have to order it online and then wait for him to authorize the purchase? I am feeding the dry version of the I/D, mainly because my dog didn’t like the canned. Whenever he did eat it, he vomited it. Since I switched to the dry, he’ll eat it but prefers a bit of the Merrick 95% chicken formula mixed in with it……..does your dog get just the Royal Canin formula and nothing else at all, besides his medications of course? I’m trying to find some chewies or bones that won’t add to the fat situation, but so far, nothing. He loves to chew on stuff, but I’m afraid to give him anything that could add to the problem.

Keep on, keep in’ on! It’s one day at a time isn’t it? Take care!
Nancy

[Genevieve K]

I want to go completely grain-free. I have a few specialty stores around that carry the higher-end foods. Petsmart now carries Wellness but does Wellness make a grain-free puppy food? I hesitate to deviate from the Large Breed Puppy foods because I know, as a puppy, he has different needs than an adult. Yes, there are All Life Stages formulas but I’m not confident those would meet his nutritional needs.

We’ve been giving him coconut oil this week. He LOVES it. I’m also hitting the butcher today and hoping they have some rabbit – have them grind one up, bones and all. I’ve not fed him raw before but, at this point, I”m desperate. I know I shouldn’t change everything at once because that makes it harder to identify the allergen but if he’s getting mainly meat and veggies with some supplements like coconut oil and maybe some calcium (unsure about that), I’d like to think he’d do ok with more limited ingredients. (OMG, carrots, broccoli and cauliflower are the best treats on earth for my dogs.)

Again, he’s a large breed and I want to make sure he gets what he needs to be healthy and strong as an adult. This makes me so sad, especially when there is so little, yet so much, information (all conflicting) out there on large breed foods and puppy needs.

[charles h]

Hi InkedMarie,

I do rotate proteins I normally go Chicken & Pork, then Chicken & Lamb, then Chicken & Beef… The problem I have is getting bone content as I have previously read that you cannot give Lamb or Beef bone as its too hard. I give Pork bone as in Ribs but it doesn’t seem to be enough to stop her stool being soft. Sometimes she gets Duck with the bones like a duck wing but its quite expensive when added together with the lamb and beef 🙂 so this is rare… I guess its too much chicken as its part of her whole cycle. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi Cyndi,

Yeah I guess she’s so spoilt I hate thinking about not feeding her haha! I haven’t tried to give raw green tripe as its quite difficult to get in the UK (not sure where you are all from)… I should be able to source some on the internet, I can only find dried tripe in the shops.

Hi Dori,

I hate seeing her little puppy eyes when she is hungry though 🙁 lol… I do feed her twice a day at the moment since about two months ago with a view to change this to once a day when she is a bit older (as I’ve read before not sure if you guys recommend this?)

Yeah I’ve read about the percentages she is just quite thin and it concerns me, also I’ve read puppies should have x% and adults x% but she is 8 months and I cannot find anything for junior feeding of how much the percentage should be so I’ve kind of gone in-between the puppy and adult percentage if that makes sense…

She may just be full and that has crossed my mind… Also another behaviour she has is to not eat when we are near her, even if we ignore her she will sit close to us rather than eat (I found this out last night); so I left her in the kitchen with her chicken legs which she ignored the whole time we had dinner (30mins or so) and she had finished it when I went back in after about 15 minutes. So maybe its just she prefers to be around us and she is too easily distracted to eat…

Thanks for all your help… Guess it’s all a bit of a learning curve, I just worry she is not getting the nutrients she needs to develop in to a healthy adult dog.

[milly w]

Daily supplements for human beings are commonplace, but what about dog dietary supplements? Just as human beings require food and supplements to be strong and healthy, dogs also require good nutrition. Veterinarians, to complement the diet and maintain good health of your pet, prescribe dog nutritional supplements.

Most commercial dog foods claim to be nutritionally complete but they all provide a one-size-fits-all approach that might not necessarily suit your dog. Different things such as age, illness, pregnancy, energy levels etc can have an effect on the nutritional needs of your pet. Here are some important supplements that your dog can use.

Brewer’s Yeast – The supplement comprises of B vitamins that take care of some of the most important functions of your dog. The most well known benefit of the supplement is its ability to repel fleas. B vitamins can help metabolize carbs, proteins and fats, which in turn can help in weight loss. It also comprises chromium that can help decrease blood cholesterol levels.

MSM (Methyl Sulfonyl Methane) – MSM supplement is helpful in ensuring healthy skin, connective tissues and coat of your dog. It is also known to reduce swelling and pain caused by sprains, strains, arthritis and bursitis.

Calcium, Zinc & Iron – Calcium is good for the blood, nerves and bones of the dogs. Zinc helps promote healthy skin and coat. Iron supplements help promote healthy blood cells. Iron supplements especially formulated for dogs must be administered to pets, as human iron supplements can be poisonous for them.

Probiotic and Prebiotic Supplements – These are required to bring balance in pets when dietary changes, stress, age or prescription medicine causes an imbalance of bacteria in their intestinal tract. To get maximum digestive and health benefits, both the kinds of supplements can be used together.

Sure grow 100 – The product packs in several beneficial nutrients including vitamin A, calcium, vitamin D, phosphorous and is excellent for puppies when they are growing. It is also known to enhance growth of the teeth, muscles and bones in puppies.

Hip and Joint Supplements – Dogs are generally very active and this can take a toll on their joints, hips and other connective tissues. Incorporating these supplements in the diet of your pet can help prevent these disorders. They comprise ingredients that work to repair and protect your dog’s joints and other connective tissues.

Canine nutritional supplements are generally available in solid form and can be included in dog food. Be sure to check with your veterinarian before you pick any nutritional supplement for your pet. While pets suffering from any of the conditions mentioned above might benefit from these supplements, there may be some underlying issues too that need medical attention. While buying supplements, go for trusted brands and take care to follow the dosage instructions as mentioned on the label.

Today, dog owners are increasingly turning to nutritional supplements realizing that most dog foods do not fully meet the energy requirements of their pet. A high quality supplement can do wonders to a dog’s overall health and performance.

[Gail W]

1. Quality similar to food
2. Manufacturing standards similar to their food
3. Easy to give as a training treat or as a high value reward

Like other posters, I want treats that have similar quality as their food. We went with Orijen puppy because they comply with Canadian & EU standards. For high value rewards, we use Orijen Freeze Dried Wild Boar. Those treats don’t break apart all that well, so for puppy training treats, we are trying Sojo Good Dog bones. In the bag, there are very few broken pieces and little dust. They break in thirds or in half very easily for our young Yorkies.

[DogFoodie]

Hi Paulee,

I just looked quickly at the ingredients in the Nature’s Domain kibbled diets and I don’t see artificial coloring listed. It’s actually a myth that kibble helps to clean teeth.

Things like raw, meaty bones will help and I’ve seen some food additives that are supposed to help, but the best way to keep teeth clean is to brush them just like you would your own teeth! : ) I use a special toothbrush with a longer handle and an enzyme toothpaste just for dogs.

[Charla H]

I like to have a variety of treats for my dog, Spike.

I like to feed him healthy, actual food that I could eat as a treat. He LOVES apple slices, cucumber slices, cherries and carrots. We frequent the farmers’ market, and some of the farmers treat him to bites of produce. He’s a picky eater — he turns up his nose at the homemade dog biscuit booth — he’d rather have a nice vegetable treat or even a bit of cheese from one of the creameries. And he LOVES popcorn.

The meat producers at the farmer’s market also sell dog bones. I buy beef, pork, lamb and bison bones for Spike as treats. I freeze them and give them to him outside on hit days — like a doggy popsicle.

I also give him Mingua Beef Jerky. It’s made by a family in my hometown, and it’s for people. I stay away from the spicy varieties. He loves his beef jerky!

There are also some freeze-dried liver bits that he loves. I am out of them now and can’t remember the name (if they change their packaging, I’m in trouble because I know them by their blue bag.) But they are just freeze-dried beef liver. They are about the size of regular dog kibble.

He also gets some treats to clean his teeth, freshen his breath and for his coat/skin.

For small training treats, I buy a small bag of dog food that is a different brand than his daily food. I can use lots of treats in training because I literally exchange the exact amount, whatever part that might be, from the food in his bowl. As long as the treat food is as good a quality as the dish food, you’re good on nutrition and safe on calories.

I also use the food treat exchange for socialization. I’ll take it in a treat pack on my belt and let kids at the market or whomever, offer him a treat, or give him a treat when he gets on the elevator, or whatever. He eats small bites, so he can be treated fifty times without a noticeable change (at least to him) in his food bowl.

Clearly, he is spoiled rotten. No, he doesn’t get all of these treats in one day! But he’s still rather spoiled.

[pugmomsandy]

http://www.thewholedog.org/artcarnivores.html

http://www.thewholedog.org/artcookedfood.html

“Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs” by Lew Olsen

“The BARF Diet” by Dr Billinghurst

“Raw Meaty Bones” and “Work Wonders Feed Your Dog Raw Meaty Bones” by Dr Tom Lonsdale

“Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats” by Dr Karen Becker/Beth Taylor has easy recipes and includes puppies.

[pugmomsandy]

Try chicken feet or pork ribs or calf ribs. GreenTripe dot com sells calf ribs. Lamb chops have soft bones too but are a bit costly. Some dogs who are on raw diets and eat RMB still get plaque buildup. Could just be genetics. I’ve also heard from other raw feeders that only feed ground raw that their dogs teeth stay clean. The raw enzymes in the food help to keep the teeth clean.

[tracy z]

I have a 9lbs toy poodle who just started on a raw diet. I give him raw chicken necks for his source of raw meaty bones. However, if I don’t cut them into smaller pieces (small enough to fit in his mouth but he would still have to chew on it) then he would refuse to eat them. He would just nibble on it and then drop it on the floor and stare at me. Would this still give him the dental benefit he needs from chewing on the bones? Or should I leave them un-cut and just let him work it?

Also, other than chicken necks, what are other good raw meaty bones I can give him that’s appropriate for his size?

Thanks!

[pugmomsandy]

He-he! That’s just one wall. The closet wall has bags of kibbles and my personal small kitchen equipment and vitamins/supplements. The the third wall has some more foods, boxes of Halo Herbal Dip, other topicals for the fosters, extra dog beds, shampoos, cases of Merrick GI Bones, Ranger Ribs and Flossies. And I keep chicken treats in there too (tubs of Mother Clucker, Chicken Crack and Cluck Yah) and I just put three 7.1 cu ft freezers in that room too to fill with the 8 cases I just ordered from greentripe.com. And here’s the dog freezer in the garage:

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u651/pugmomsandy/pictures%20for%20posting/fulldogfreezer765x1024_zpsb5463b60.jpg

My personal dogs aren’t eating much kibble right now! I have 3 personal pugs and the rest are fosters. Sometimes I have up to 12 pugs total and they usually eat 1 cup of kibble per day with some toppers. Sometimes I give them a whole raw egg fresh from the coop! So to me, it really doesn’t matter too much if BDN is not aafco compliant like Neezerfan.

Here’s a picture of bath day:

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u651/pugmomsandy/pictures%20for%20posting/pugs8pugs_zps0cd62c42.jpg

My awesome Weston 22 grinder:

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u651/pugmomsandy/pictures%20for%20posting/IMG_5170952x1024_zpsec466d4d.jpg

• This reply was modified 11 years, 3 months ago by pugmomsandy.

[Erin R]

We haven’t introduced anything new to her, food wise, and i don’t give her pig ears or bones or rawhide or anything edible like that. The only thing she OCCASIONALLY gets with her kibble is chicken, beef, boiled egg, etc. I’ve never given her wet food. I have been sprinkling shredded cheese on her breakfast (i’ve been doing that for a while now) so she would eat before i go into work… but i guess cheese isn’t good for pancreatitis so she won’t be getting that any more!

But she was in to the vet about two weeks ago for a mild back sprain. Then when she recovered from that, her annual vaccinations. So i guess that was pretty stressful and could have upset her stomach? Thats the only thing we can think of, anyway, plus maybe the cheese and her being part Schnauzer.

Her current food is 15% fat, should i try to find a lower fat kibble? I am hesitant to talk to the vet about food/diet because i’ve only ever been suggested things like Science Diet, Royal Canin, and foods with grains/corn despite telling them of grain/corn allergy. She does have a follow up appointment on Friday so i guess i can ask, then, but i want other opinions and maybe some suggestions on foods to look into.

Thanks!

PS – i never knew that Schnauzers where prone to pancreatitis. Now i do.

[Dori]

LOL Cyndi. I was going to jump in on the amount of food you first mentioned. When I first read your post I thought. That’s a heck of a lot of food. That can’t possibly be right. Then GizmoMom jumped in.

Akari. From all that I know about pork, you absolutely have to freeze it a minimum of 2 weeks (longer probably better) to rid it of any parasites. Very important. Even if you buy it frozen at the store you still need to freeze it at home because you have no idea how long they froze the pork. I’ve got a 5 lb. Yorkipoo, a 6 lb. Maltipoo and a 7 lb. Maltese. They each get 1/4 cup of raw diet twice a day. Two to three times a week I split a small can (grocery store tuna fish aisle) of sardines in water to their meals. I don’t give them eggs because my Maltipoo is intolerant to any and all things poultry. On days that I do not give them sardines added to their meal I give them once a day a little squirt of Sardine Oil which I keep in the refrigerator on top of their meal. I use Nature’s Logic. I like the company and trust them. I also give them two or three times a week once a day only maybe about 1/8 tsp. (maybe a little less) of coconut oil. I just put it on their food and they eat it. I don’t give them more than that with the coconut oil because their poops will immediately get kind of soft, dark and gooey (sp?). Sorry for that poop description but that’s the only way I know of explaining it. Just in case it happens to you. I don’t think any of my gals digest the coconut oil too well. I have to say that sometimes weeks go by that I don’t bother with the coconut oil. I don’t see that it helps them one way or the other. I have tried the coconut chips that are sold but they come out looking exactly the same way they went in. White coconut chips in and out.

Oh! I forgot to mention that I feed commercial raw diets. I don’t feed any poultry whatsoever. Remember no bones that contain marrow. Way to fatty is the marrow. Beef ribs with a bit of meat (not a lot) are fine. If he actually eats the bone then you don’t need to also feed the meal. If he just chews the bone for entertainment value then, yes, feed the meal. Mine just think they’re toys. Will chew for a bit and then leave them laying around. The only dehydrated food that I feed (haven’t for a while) is The Honest Kitchen Zeal. The Zeal formula is because Katie (Maltipoo is intolerant of all things poultry. I don’t feed anything with potatoes in it. I had to stop feeding THK because of the alfalfa (again, Katie’s issues with alfalfa). They have started producing the Zeal without the alfalfa but are still trying to clear out their old stock and also their old boxes. Until their web site ingredient list does not include the alfalfa and the boxes do not say alfalfa then I’ll wait them out. I will go back to the Zeal at that time. OK. Sorry for such a long post. Anything else I can help with just ask, if not me, then someone else. Hey also I’ve been thinking for the longest time that you should change your name to The Coupon Lady or just Coupon Lady. Anyway anytime I see your name I always think…Oh? It’s the coupon lady. LOL!

[Stephanie S]

I’m trying to find a good food for my 11 week old male rough collie. He is currently eating Blue Wilderness Large Breed Puppy but I’m concerned that it might have too much calcium in it which I know isn’t good for large breed puppies. Also, he doesn’t seem to really like it. I have read many articles on the internet and I am more confused than ever because they all seem to have conflicting information. Some say to feed grain free and some say that grain free isn’t good for large breed puppies. Some say that a large breed puppy needs to be on large breed food, which is what I was always told, and some say that they don’t. I just really want to find a food that will be good for his joints and bones and also good for his skin because collies sometimes have sensitive skin. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[pugmomsandy]

The 80/10/10 numbers for raw feeding is an “average”. But what’s included in the average? Small whole animals whose bones can be consumed and larger animals whose bones cannot! For instance, let’s say a wolf eats mostly muscle/organs from a bison and hardly any of it’s bones because they’re too dense. Just have to keep in mind the phrase “balance over time” when feeding raw. But since you are going by a recipe, your food should end up mostly balanced than not! Liver should ideally be not more than 5%. Sometimes I add more muscle meat and sometimes I don’t. So sometimes my batch is around 30% bone and sometimes near 10%. I’m not exact all the time. I add heart, gizzard, tripe or muscle meat like thighs as additional “muscle meat” and have to do some algebra to figure it all out! For 5 lbs of whole chicken that’s around 30% bone, I can add up to 9.5 lbs of muscle and half a pound of additional liver to make it around 10% bone and around 5% liver. I haven’t seen (or looked for) bone content numbers for whole calf. I use preymodelraw.com for some figures on bone content. This is just what I do. http://preymodelraw.com/page/articles.html/_/raw-chat/common-cuts-a-photographic-guide-to-raw-meaty-r15

[pugmomsandy]

I’m not familiar with MPC grinds, but if you get the ones with bone and organs included, I wouldn’t add anything to it besides the vitamin supplements if you like. The heart and gizzard and tripe count as “muscle meat” in a recipe just like chicken breast. You can feed tripe daily if you like. You might consider getting a meat grinder that has at least 1 hp if you plan on feeding raw grinds long term. 1hp (and even .75 hp) is sufficient to grind chicken bones. You can cut costs by buying bulk chicken legs and necks and organs by the case. Grind up 50 lbs of food at a time and save on time!

• This reply was modified 11 years, 4 months ago by pugmomsandy.