I would worry that cushion meat might be really high fat. Pork is usually high fat and cheaper cuts are usually high fat so cheap cuts of pork might be off the chart. As long as your dog is taking his time to chew the meat then leaving the bone in is great. If you were going to feed completely raw then I would say you shouldn’t be switching meats up this much this early, but since it is a small portion of his food you can get away with that more. If you are feeding 20% or less of his diet with foods that are not balanced then you are fine. If you’re feeding more than that you need to start watching how all your dog’s nutrients come together over time.
HI! I’d like to ask a question or two!
I just started incorporating some raw meat into my dog’s diet. Here’s what I’ve been doing: 2 tbsp or low fat, plain yogurt, 1 tbsp of flax seed, 1/2 cup of Earthborn Holistic Primitive Natural (as opposed to the 3/4 cup recommendation), and some muscle meat (first I saw doing pre-ground chicken, now I’ve started on half breasts, and some Earthborn Holistic moist tubs-the lamb formula). Thanks to the RMB topic that HDM started, I’m going to be feeding Louie some pork necks that have been in our freezer for a VERY long time, as well. This is just my way of incorporating raw into his current diet slowly. Maybe this is the wrong way to do it, if so, please yell at me and tell me the right way lol.
My first question! Like I said, I’ve been feeding my Louie meat from half breasts (chicken). These half breasts naturally have bone in them (ribs, etc.) but I’ve been cutting away the bone and just feeding the meat. Should I NOT cut away the bone? Should I just chop it up and serve it with the ribs and the rest?
Second question! I found some pork cushion meat at Costco for $1.29 a pound. I have no idea if it would be a good idea to buy it and serve it when we run out of the chicken, or if I should not buy cushion meat (for some reason) .I’m not sure what cushion meat actually is, I’ll probably look it up after I’m done posting this.
Anyway, thanks!!
Some products such as Darwin’s raw frozen food provide the guaranteed analysis of vitamins and minerals in grams per 1000 kcal ME. Since the amount of calcium and phosphorus is important for large breed puppies, I’m hoping someone knows an easy method to convert grams per 1000 kcal ME to dry matter.
I have found a few products such as Darwin’s raw frozen food where the guaranteed analysis of vitamins and minerals is given in grams per 1000 kcal ME. The amount of calcium and phosphorus in dog foods are important to know for large breed puppies. I’m hoping that you can discuss how to compare products that provide nutrients in this way. Hopefully there is a easy calculation to convert grams per 1000 kcal ME to dry matter.
I know whatever pork grower advertizes on TV every once in a while calls it the other white meat, but some raw feeding sites have said it is red meat. So I don’t know. I’ve also heard rabbit is an excellent red meat and an excellent white meat. Go figure.
Probably good enough. I usually feed one meal a week of oily fish. I don’t really know how that compares to the amount you are giving yours divided up. If mine aren’t getting a fish meal a week, I add krill or fish oil every day. And that is with feeding kibble with omega 3s too. I just try to add the amount of fish, fish oil, krill oil for the amount of raw that I’m feeding.
I have not Patty, I did not think they needed it if just on Raw part time even though I did open one of the sardine packages that I got from Hare Today and only once I gave them a teaspoon of that each. Today I gave them all 1/2 sardine each out of the can and they loved it. I still got 3 packages of Raw sardines and the one package I opened I vacuum packed it and froze it again. So you think Sardines twice a week will be enough? I don’t want to over do it or under do it.
I tried the See spot live longer Dinner mixes with Raw rabbit and I ended up rinsing it off the rabbit bits because my dogs would not eat it. I have 2 unopened bags if anyone wants them, I can ship them to you so just let me know if u are interested in them? US only please 🙂
I have had the same problem with my pups with the intermittent loose stools. Recently, I made my own fruitable concoction. I mixed pure pumpkin with a little organic no sugar added applesauce and then added Honest Kitchen’s Perfect Form herbal supplement to it. Mixed it all up and add a heaping table spoon to each of their meals. It has made a huge difference in their stools. They still are a little loose when out on a walk though. Like I read from another poster recently on a different thread, it can be very embarrassing and hard to clean up with one of those doggie bags. Yuck! I’m wondering if its ok to keep adding to their food for long term? Any opinions? I did buy some DE the other day and plan to incorporate into their food. Just a little nervous about it. I had never heard of it before. Of course, I had never fed pumpkin or raw bones before I started checking out this website either. Lol!
The wings are high bone but I mentioned it due to it’s small size since I have small dogs to begin with! Mine can also eat pork ribs easily. The beef ribs are too hard. They just gnaw on those after the meat is gone.
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This reply was modified 12 years, 9 months ago by
pugmomsandy.
Thanks pugsmomsandy, that makes sense. They do have raw so I’m pretty sure that wasn’t the issue, just the increased amount of bone like you said. I will look into getting chicken legs/wings.
beaglemom,
Necks are very high in bone content and they are probably not use to digesting that much or even digesting real raw bones to begin with. The meat from the necks probably digested well and quickly as compared to kibble that can take up to 12 hours or more. I’d wait a couple days to give them another one and even introduce something with more meat like a whole leg (skinless to begin with) or give them half a neck with some additional meat/organs. You can also introduce more bone (and raw in general) into their diet to get them used to it with commercial products. I fed mine commercial patties for several months before doing RMB and started mine with chicken wings and then drumsticks. My recipe book calls for x amount of necks with x amount of meat so just a neck by itself if just too much bone. BUT given just a few times a week should be ok once they work their way up to it.
🙂 Thanks Cyndi & NectarMom… yea, mine have been having ground raw (Darwin’s, Primal, etc.) for about 2 months now and haven’t had any trouble with it. I know there’s ground bone in that but thought maybe the RMBs might have sat differently since the dogs probably swallowed bigger pieces of bone than they’d ever had before (but still small obviously, since they chewed them up). I was surprised it took over 12 hours to resurface such as it did. I’m keeping an eye on them but otherwise they’re great… I just hope it doesn’t mean that having a duck neck or whatever causes them to throw up each time. They clearly digested the meat well, just not all of the bone.
I had that happen too and I think. I over reacted too quickly and rushed mine to the vet. A good friend of mine has been feeding her Danes Raw for 12yrs and she said every now and then one of her Danes will throw up and she says it is common and just a case of mild Pancreatitis. It is scary though and freaks you out. I am one of those that is terrified of my dogs choking on raw bones. I am so stupid paranoid that I had ordered them raw rabbit chunks with bone and I cut the meat off away from the bone and threw the bone away. I am so weird.
When I started my dog on raw about a month and a half ago, she did the same thing the next day. But she just threw up the once and had a bit of runny poop. I think it might be just their systems getting accustomed to real food and not kibble, if I’m not mistaken. I’m sure HDM or someone else can give you a better answer, but I just wanted to let you know that it’s probably normal and my dog was fine and is thriving on raw now. Good Luck! 🙂
Oh, and I felt the same way as you did the first meal my Bailey ate raw. I don’t know if I was more nervous or excited or what. It was very interesting to watch her at work on the bones and using her teeth the way the were meant to be used instead of just crunching a bowl of kibble. I still enjoy watching her eat.
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This reply was modified 12 years, 9 months ago by
Cyndi.
Hmm a quick follow up on which I would appreciate any feedback… no one had a problem post-RMB until this morning when both threw up some small pieces of bone mixed with yellow bile. Both had normal poop (small, firm, etc) and both had an appetite for breakfast, and both are acting normally. Is this a normal reaction to the first time that much bone enters their systems… did they not chew enough… do I do feed RMBs again? Thanks HDM/everyone.
I knew the regular Instinct was coated with something but I didn’t know it was freeze dried raw
I was going to run out tonight and get some cans as well as a different recipe of food. It’s hard finding kibble I feel comfortable feeding him, and I unfortunately don’t think I’ve got the budget to go raw. Bah.
Glad to hear they enjoyed their RMBs! 🙂
Just wanted to share with the people I know will understand that my dogs just had their first raw meaty bones for dinner tonight! Each had a duck neck that my husband and I held the whole time, since I didn’t want any gulping. Once they both stopped playing tug of war with us, they got the idea and got down to chewing. I must admit that every single one of the questions that Hound Dog Mom posted in the original post on this thread went through my mind, haha… was that piece too big? Are they chewing enough? Etc. Aside from my tendency to worry too much, it was definitely satisfying to watch them be “true carnivores”, crunching and grinding away. They’re both happily sleeping/digesting now… I’m very hopeful it agrees with them so I can continue to increase the variety of RMBs in their diet!
Hi Marie –
I don’t think the Raw Boost is any better than the regular Instinct. The regular Instinct is coated in freeze-dried raw. I think it’s just more money for a product that’s just as good or marginally better at best to the old product. All for marketing I’m sure.
Frozen raw like Darwin’s may be the way to go. It usually has lower sodium levels. The problem with sodium is that pet food companies aren’t required to put it on the label, so they don’t. That means if you want to know the sodium level you have to ask. And if you don’t ask the right question they may tell you their minimum, which has next to nothing to do with how much is actually in there. You have to ask for the actual or the maximum, and make sure that they understood your question, and that’s if you actually get to talk to a live person.
Don’t try Fresh Pet. Everyone comments on how salty it is.
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This reply was modified 12 years, 9 months ago by
theBCnut.
Hi Sully’s Mom
A year ago, I wasn’t rotating foods either. I had a dog with a sensitive stomach and changing foods always upset everything with her. I had another that was super picky, only eating about every third meal. When I started rotating, I started by adding canned or fresh toppers, just 20% or less of each meal. I would use the same topper for a few days then change it. That got my picky dog eating some better and it got my sensitive dog read for a food change. It always took a month to change foods completely with the sensitive dog, but I committed to doing it. As soon as I got her used to one food, I started the transition to the next. It took about 3 transitions before I realized that she could transition faster without stomach upset, so I started transitioning every 2 weeks. Now she gets a different food every meal, and I also feed some raw with never an upset stomach. And my picky dog is excited to eat, never misses a meal, and always licks his bowl clean. So when I say I had a dog with a sensitive stomach and I had a picky dog, it’s because they aren’t either of those things anymore. I have four different kibbles open at any given time, but with 3 athletic dogs I go through them pretty fast. And I feed a wide variety of raw proteins.
I used NV Lid turkey a few years back to Boone and he did great!
HDM, what’s your opinion on their raw boost?
Thanks HDM! I just ordered some off of wag.com, it should be here Tues. I know it isn’t the Raw making them itch and the only thing that someone that I trust pointed out in the turkey and egg that could possibly be the itchy culprit is carrot. My dogs are not flaky skin and no fleas or ticks but do once again itchy and the yeasty ears are back too.
Yeah, I combine ground beef with the organ grind and tripe grind, portion it up and refreeze it. The rabbit will be easier because I’ll feed that by itself. I’m sure glad I found out about Hare Today on here. Sure makes feeding raw a lot easier!
Looking for a low sodium canned dog food for my cavalier with CHF. Any suggestions? She currently loves Weruva human style canned. I’ve tried Great Life Essentials, but she’s not as crazy about that.
Home cooked is not really practical for me but I might consider the frozen raw foods.
Thanks!
Hi Sully’s Mom –
To get an avatar go to gravatar(dot)com.
Many people have different methods of rotational feeding. Some switch foods a few times a year, some switch after every bag, some have multiple foods at one time and switch with every meal and others stick with the same food and only rotate toppers (I personally don’t feel the rotating toppers only is the best method).
When I used to feed kibble I got a new brand with a different protein source after each bag and I always had a variety of canned and fresh food toppers on hand and rotated toppers daily. So for example my dog would get a lamb based kibble made by Brand X and after that bag was gone I’d get a chicken based kibble from Brand Y, etc. – all the while rotating canned toppers daily. Now that my dogs eat a homemade raw diet I’m able to feed them something completely different at each meal.
You really can rotate as often as you want – there’s no such thing as too much variety. Get a rotation plan going that works works for you and your dog. You could mix the trial bags you got in with the kibble you’re currently feeding or few a few meals of only the trial food until the bag is gone. Initially you may need to so slow transitions to get your dog accustomed to variety, however after a few switches you should be able to go from food to food without doing a gradual transition. I generally recommend, at the very least, having three go to foods (preferably from different manufacturers and with different protein sources).
We feed Hare Todays ground rabbit mixture in the morning and in the evening we feed Brothers Turkey and Egg. We have been back on Turkey and egg kibble for approx 8 weeks since our bout with Pancreatitis and now We have been feeding 1/2 Raw and 1/2 kibble a day and my dogs are more itchy than ever. I am wondering if it is the carrot in the kibble because carrot has natural sugars in it and sugar feeds yeast as in result causing sugar to feed on the yeast so I am wondering since the ingredients are similar in the Turkey and egg as Natures Variety Instinct but NV has no carrot added , I would switch to the NV Rabbit LID. Yes once again considering a food switch because it is not atopic allergies, for them to smell yeasty it is food allergy. I kept going back to turkey and egg because I was told it takes 6-8 months to rid their systems of Candida but after doing a ton of reading up on it and asking another legit source it should only take 3-4 months at most. Any thoughts?
I have 3 that will eat the Hare Today ground Rabbit and one that won’t touch it. I like it because it is not messy and easy to figure out each meal size. I just ordered 10 more lbs yesterday. I thaw it and then break it into 4 servings and then refreeze as Tracy suggested.
So I’ve seen this touched on, but need a little more in the way of specifics. In varying your dog’s food, which I’ve never done before, I’ve seen many say that they even rotate after every bag. Following some suggestions I’ve read here, I’ve gotten some samples from companies, and bought trial size bags of some premium foods (HINT* – petflow.com often offers trial size bags for a limited time of premium dog food for anywhere from $1 – $5 depending on the size). So I now have a 5lb bag of Nutrisca Chicken and Chickpea and 5lbs of Nature’s Variety Instinct Raw Boost. Any suggestions on how best to incorporate a small quantity like these into a rotation?
Thanks Marie! I am too! & thanks HDM!
Glad Bailey is doing so well, cyndi!
Glad to hear Baily is doing so well! 🙂
I’m sure she’ll love the ground rabbit from Hare – my dogs do. They also love the quail – I’ve fed both the dressed and whole prey with feathers, they love both. I usually go with the feathered quail though because they’re cheaper – my crew doesn’t leave anything behind (they eat the feathers, intestines and all) so it doesn’t make a mess.
Hi Everyone! Thought I’d share some good things, since all that Shep garbage ingredient has really grossed me out. Anyways, Bailey has been doing awesome! She is eating tripe regularly (& loving it) and she’s eating chicken hearts, and chicken & turkey livers regularly, with no problems. I also got her the whole rabbit grind from Hare Today that I’m going to give her probably next week. Not quite ready to do a whole prey animal with her, although I’m thinking about getting her a whole dressed quail (that sounds funny like it’s dressed in clothes or something) maybe sometime soon. I don’t think I can get anything with feathers or fur on it. Not sure I can handle that. Anyways, I also have Bailey completely off the Fresh Pet too, and her ear problem DID clear up. Not sure what in that food could have caused her problems, but I’m so glad it’s gone. So, that’s our update! I want to thank everyone, again, for all your help and suggestions. & I’m sure, if she could, Bailey would be thanking you all too! 🙂
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This reply was modified 12 years, 9 months ago by Cyndi.
Thanks guys for the information. I don’t feed rawhides anymore and haven’t for months. I buy them the antlers and I will start giving them some raw meaty bones. Any treats they have gotten lately were freeze dried liver and they got like maybe 3 total within the last couple weeks, so I’m pretty sure it isn’t from “extras”. I actually have looked into Annamaet foods and I like what I see. I will check out Nutrisca. I did get them some raw meat today and fed them a small amount to see how they liked it and they loved it. I really want to just feed raw only, but with one more year of school I won’t have the time. Thanks for the link to that enzyme. I will definitely get some of that. I will probably make an appointment with the vet for next week. Thanks, once again, for all of this information.
Hi acs379 –
Nope, there’s nothing specific about excess fat that will cause developmental issues. Many veterinarians and breeders just tend to recommend lower fat foods because they generally have a lower calorie count per cup and they feel that it will be less likely that the dog will consume too many calories. However, as long as portion sizes are controlled it doesn’t pose an issue. My experience with my hounds has actually been that I have difficulty keeping weight on them – they tend to be on the thin side if anything, so for me it’s been really important to use more calorie-dense foods.
First off I would like to say that it is wonderful that your breeder is recommending the inclusion of fresh foods. Many breeders and veterinarians don’t recognize the importance of fresh foods. Fresh meat, plain yogurt and eggs are wonderful additions to dry kibble – they boost the protein levels and the species appropriateness. Adding eggs and boneless meat will also help to reduce the calcium to phosphorus ratio of the food as they’re high in phosphorus but low in calcium. Just be sure to keep the unbalanced extras to approximately 20% or less of the meal or you could skew the calcium to phosphorus ratio too much and potentially throw off the balance of the other nutrients in the food. Canned foods and dehydrated foods make great toppers too, if feeding a balanced canned or dehydrated food with appropriate calcium levels you can add as much as you want, if feeding a food with higher calcium levels or an unbalanced canned topper follow the 20% rule. Tripe makes an excellent topper – especially for large and giant breed puppies, the reason being that tripe has has a naturally balanced calcium to phosphorus ratio (1:1) but very low concentrations of both minerals (only about 0.3% if I recall correctly). So feeding tripe will dilute the overall calcium levels without the risk of throwing of the c:p ratio. When Gertie was a pup she ate THK and I generally fed her 4 C. THK + 1 can Tripett (canned green tripe) daily (and some fresh additions like eggs, plain yogurt and tinned sardines a few times a week). Mabel started right off on raw and ate raw green tripe as about 25% of her diet for the first 6 months to keep her calcium levels low. Another benefit to tripe (if you can get it raw) is that it’s loaded with probiotics and digestive enzymes.
I generally recommend not supplementing with vitamins (unless per veterinarian recommendation) for those feeding a balanced commercial food, however vitamin c and vitamin b are water soluble vitamins so they are not harmful in excess, if you wanted to add them it shouldn’t cause any problems. The problems arise with certain minerals and fat soluble vitamins as these can be harmful when consumed in excess. Because balanced commercial foods already contain vitamins and minerals adding additional vitamins (fat soluble) and certain minerals could potentially result in toxicity. I would definitely not supplement with vitamin d or calcium – vitamin d is a fat soluble vitamin and adding calcium would likely throw off the calcium to phosphorus ratio and high levels of calcium are what need to be avoided for large and giant breed puppies.
Now onto discussing the Science Diet Adult Maintenance recommendation. I see many breeders recommend putting large breed puppies directly onto an adult maintenance food and this is extremely poor advice (imo) and often based on faulty logic. The reason breeders typically recommend adult foods is because adult foods tend to be lower in fat and calories than puppy foods – from the previous discussion we know that this isn’t an issue as long as portions are controlled. Feeding a puppy a food designated for adult maintenance puts the puppy at risk of not getting enough fat, protein or certain vitamins and minerals. SD is extremely low in protein – to be honest I wouldn’t even feel comfortable feeding a food that low in protein to an adult dog, let alone a growing puppy. I don’t ever recommend feeding foods with less than 30% protein (for adults or puppies) and the SD only has 24.5% protein. Also, if you go to SD’s website and read the product description for the adult maintenance food you’ll notice they state “Not recommended for puppies, pregnant or lactating dogs” – this is because dogs in their growth phase or in the stressful phase of pregnancy or lactation need high levels of protein, higher levels of fat and higher levels of certain vitamins and minerals. I personally wouldn’t ever feed or recommend any Science Diet Products. I would recommend checking out some 4 or 5 star foods with appropriate calcium levels. It’s also better if you rotate foods, don’t stick with just one – dogs need variety. I’d say at a bare minimum have three go to brands (preferably made by different companies and with different protein sources) and rotate through them. Rotational feeding has benefits including fostering a diverse population of gut flora, mitigating the short comings of feeding any one single food (no food is perfect) and providing alternatives in the event of a recall or formula change.
Hi weimlove –
You’ll have to check to see the concentration of the vitamin e supplement you have – different liquid supplements have different concentrations. It should tell you how many IUs per drop. I’d say 100 IU per lb. would be fine.
As long as you’re feeding a fatty fish (like sardine or salmon) a few times a week you shouldn’t need to worry about Omega 3’s or Vitamin D. I would just suggest kelp and alfalfa (like I did with the raw) – or some other “superfoods” (wheat grass, spirulina, etc.). I would feed at least one egg per one. I would also suggest occasionally adding items like tinned oysters, nuts and seeds to provide important trace nutrients (this doesn’t need to be done daily, but once in awhile). As long as you’re balancing the c:p ratio, feeding a variety of protein sources, feeding 10% organ meat, adding vitamin e, omega 3’s (fatty fish, cage free eggs or fish oil) and adding a whole food supplement everything should balance over time. Variety is key.
Congrats on the new pup! I would certainly say it would be fine to start the new pup on homemade. I started Mabel right up on homemade raw when she came home.
I’ve fed it and likely will again (Annamaet) but I had to drive 40min one way to buy it. Next time, I’ll just order. This little frenchie’s feet have done a real about change. He looks ten times better in general, not just his feet.
I like the ingredients of that Annamaet Aqualuk! I should see if I can buy that anywhere, I don’t believe I’ve seen it here though. What I notice is it doesn’t have all that fruit which would just serve to feed the yeast. Even if a dog doesn’t have yeast…it looks like a good recipe!
An online friend has a Frenchie with yeast issues, his paws were a mess. She put him on Annamaet Aqualuk and they cleared up!
I am still hung up on getting your dog to the vet asap. Unless you are really familiar with what yeast really is, you most likely will not know the difference between a smell of this and a smell of that. A lot of things can make them stink. If you are wasting time treating for yeast and it’s not even yeast, then you have wasted a lot of time and effort into some unnecessary treatment and caused your dog lots of grief. As dieseljunki said, you do not have to do or buy what the dog says. Question why they want you to do this or that. They will want to give you prednisone and all that will do is mask the itch. The reason I keep saying vet vet vet is that you need to really know if it is yeast or not and I don’t think the average joe really knows unless of course you have already had this before and it was diagnosed yeast and you are familiar with yeast. Certainly if your dog has a history of yeast then you would know if it is or not.
If you do end up going to your vet, don’t be afraid to tell him or her, no. They tried to put Moose my AmBull on Hills Science and to stop feeding raw. I told them no way, of course in a respectful manner. I also explained my reasoning a bit. My vet realizes now that if he is going to help me help my dog then he is just going to have to live with the fact that I won’t stop feeding raw. I also brought in some of my research and printed off a couple articles that HDM had posted here. Not sure if he’s read them but I think it allowed him to see I was doing my homework before attempting this.
Also just because they say, he needs this, and then that, doesn’t mean you have to take it right away. Go home and do your research. You may find that what they are suggesting isn’t all that great after all.
If all else fails and your vet is extremely pushy then I would be on the lookout for another. If I was in that situation anyways. Don’t let them push you around or pressure you into anything 🙂
You know what gmc, if you look at the ingredients of Acana Grasslands, it really has a lot of “sweets” in it which would severely affect a dog that has yeast issues, if that is the problem. Have you looked at all the fruits and high carb veggies it has in it? I had thought about Acana for my dog and I’m glad I saw this. Now I’m going to go take a more thorough look at our dog food next…gah….dogs just don’t need all those “sweets”!
I found the Nutrisca recommended on a website that was all about yeast in dogs because that is what I believed my dog was suffering from. This might be something to try. When I was at the petfood store, a lady overheard me talking to the manager about my dog’s issues and she had to come up to me carrying a bag of Nutrisca and told me it was the greatest food EVER! She said her dog had so many skin problems and she researched until she thought her eyes were going to come out of her head and decided on Nutrisca and she said she has all her friends buying it too. She told me all her dog’s skin problems went away.
Don’t forget about stuff like raw hides too. Those and others can cause allergies too.
Yeah see I tried all those on line remedies…me and Dr Becker are besties…HAHAHA…LOL! Kidding of course…but I read and watched her so much….
I bought the expensive vet ear cleaner only to find out that a cotton swab soaked in witch hazel…roll it around then use a dry one and roll that around with your finger works WONDERS! Every time I’d use the vet stuff, she would shake her head like crazy. I believe I heard witch hazel from Dr. Becker. I like the flat round cotton swabs…you can roll it around with your index finger really easy. I cut my nails all off too so I would scratch her ear.
I apologize. I forgot to mention it will not be the chicken formula. I will rotate between the Regional Red and Six Fish and she is currently eating the ACANA Grasslands and that contains no chicken. I also do not give any chicken treats. I have already soaked her paws in a water/hydrogen peroxide/white vinegar soak that I heard in a video from Dr. Becker. Her ears are worse than her paws, but I am keeping them clean almost every day. The only ear cleaner I have, though, is the convenient ear pads that Walmart sells. I think I am just going to end up buying some higher quality ear cleaner soon.
Satin Balls work for some dogs – just google “satin ball recipes for dogs.”
One of my dogs has difficulty keeping weight on, I never really got her to a healthy weight until I switched her to a high fat (30% – 40%) raw diet. You have to increase fat levels slowly though or else the dog will probably get diarrhea.
You haven’t mentioned if the Orijen is the chicken formula? This could be the problem if it’s chicken allergies because it will have more chicken than an el cheapo junk dog food. That is what happened for my dog, I thought that grain free was the answer so chose a grain free chicken and that’s when she really got bad.
In my case, the paws would not heal up without an antibiotic…I had literally been treating them for months…with daily betadine soaks and they just would not heal up. They’d appear to be getting better then they would get worse and bleed…over and over until we’d had enough. Her feet were covered with pustules though. It doesn’t sound as if your dog is as severe as my girl was.
You can buy a good probiotic for humans to give them…what enzymes would you suggest patty?
2 months, 1 week ago
