Orijen Dog Food (Dry)

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Rating: ★★★★★

Orijen Dog Food receives the Advisor’s top rating of 5 stars.

The Orijen product line includes seven dry dog foods, six claimed to meet AAFCO nutrient profiles for all life stages and one (Senior) for adult maintenance.

The following is a list of recipes available at the time of this review.

  • Orijen Adult
  • Orijen Puppy
  • Orijen Senior
  • Orijen Tundra
  • Orijen Six Fish
  • Orijen Puppy Large
  • Orijen Regional Red

Orijen Adult was selected to represent the other products in the line for this review.

Orijen Adult Dog

Dry Dog Food

Estimated Dry Matter Nutrient Content

Protein = 42% | Fat = 20% | Carbs = 30%

Ingredients: Boneless chicken, chicken meal, chicken liver, whole herring, boneless turkey, turkey meal, turkey liver, whole eggs, boneless walleye, whole salmon, chicken heart, chicken cartilage, herring meal, salmon meal, chicken liver oil, red lentils, green peas, green lentils, sun-cured alfalfa, yams, pea fibre, chickpeas, pumpkin, butternut squash, spinach greens, carrots, red delicious apples, bartlett pears, cranberries, blueberries, kelp, licorice root, angelica root, fenugreek, marigold, sweet fennel, peppermint leaf, chamomile, dandelion, summer savory, rosemary, Enterococcus faecium, supplements: vitamin A, vitamin D3, vitamin E, niacin, riboflavin, folic acid, biotin, vitamin B12, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate, manganese proteinate, copper proteinate, selenium yeast

Fiber (estimated dry matter content) = 5.6%

Red items when present indicate controversial ingredients

Estimated Nutrient Content
MethodProteinFatCarbs
Guaranteed Analysis38%18%NA
Dry Matter Basis42%20%30%
Calorie Weighted Basis35%40%25%

The first ingredient in this dog food is chicken. Although it is a quality item, raw chicken contains about 80% water. After cooking, most of that moisture is lost, reducing the meat content to just a fraction of its original weight.

After processing, this item would probably account for a smaller part of the total content of the finished product.

The second ingredient is chicken meal. Chicken meal is considered a meat concentrate and contains nearly 300% more protein than fresh chicken.

The third ingredient is chicken liver. This is an organ meat sourced from a named animal and thus considered a beneficial component.

The next two ingredients are herring and turkey, additional quality raw items. After processing, this item would probably account for a smaller part of the total content of the finished product.

The sixth ingredient is turkey meal, another protein-rich meat concentrate.

The seventh ingredient includes turkey liver. This is an organ meat sourced from a named animal and thus considered a beneficial component.

The eighth ingredient is whole eggs. Eggs are easy to digest and have an exceptionally high biological value.

The next two ingredients include walleye and salmon, items high in protein but also omega 3 fatty acids, essential oils needed by every dog to sustain life. After processing, these items would probably account for a smaller part of the total content of the finished product.

The next ingredient is chicken heart. Although it doesn’t sound very appetizing to us humans, heart tissue is pure muscle — all meat. It’s naturally rich in quality protein, minerals and complex B vitamins, too.

Next on the ingredient list is chicken cartilage, a source of both glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate — natural substances believed to support joint health.

After chicken cartilage we find herring meal and salmon meal, yet two more high protein meat concentrates.

Fish meal is typically obtained from the “clean, dried, ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish and fish cuttings” of commercial fish operations.1

From here, the list goes on to include a number of other items.

But to be realistic, ingredients located this far down the list (other than nutritional supplements) are not likely to affect the overall rating of this product.

With seven notable exceptions

First, we note the inclusion of red and green lentils. Lentils are a quality source of carbohydrates. Plus (like all legumes) they’re rich in natural fiber.

However, lentils contain about 25% protein, a factor that must be considered when judging the actual meat content of this dog food.

Next, this recipe also contains chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans. Like peas, bean and lentils, the chickpea is a nutritious member of the fiber-rich legume (or pulse) family of vegetables.

However, chickpeas contain about 22% protein, a factor that must be considered when judging the actual meat content of this dog food.

In addition, we find peas. Peas are a quality source of carbohydrates. And like all legumes, they’re rich in natural fiber.

However, peas contain about 25% protein, a factor that must be considered when judging the meat content of this dog food.

Next, although dried alfalfa is high in plant protein (about 18%) and fiber (25%), this hay-family item is more commonly associated with horse feeds.

We also note this recipe contains selenium yeast. Unlike the more common inorganic form of selenium (sodium selenite), this natural yeast supplement is considered a safer anti-cancer alternative.

Next, the company appears to have applied friendly bacteria to the surface of the kibble after cooking. These special probiotics are used to enhance a dog’s digestive and immune functions.

And lastly, this food also contains chelated minerals, minerals that have been chemically attached to protein. This makes them easier to absorb. Chelated minerals are usually found in better dog foods.

Orijen Dog Food
The Bottom Line

Judging by its ingredients alone, Orijen Dog Food looks like an above-average dry product.

But ingredient quality by itself cannot tell the whole story. We still need to estimate the product’s meat content before determining a final rating.

The dashboard displays a dry matter protein reading of 42%, a fat level of 20% and estimated carbohydrates of about 30%.

As a group, the brand features an average protein content of 42% and a mean fat level of 19%. Together, these figures suggest a carbohydrate content of 30% for the overall product line.

And a fat-to-protein ratio of about 46%.

Above-average protein. Above-average fat. And below-average carbs when compared to a typical dry dog food.

Even when you consider the protein-boosting effects of the red and green lentils, green peas, chickpeas and dried alfalfa, this looks like the profile of a kibble containing a significant amount of meat.

Bottom line?

Orijen is a grain-free meat-based dry dog food using an abundance of various named meats and organs as its main sources of animal protein, thus earning the brand 5 stars.

Enthusiastically recommended.

Please note certain recipes are sometimes given a higher or lower rating based upon our estimate of their total meat content and (when appropriate) their fat-to-protein ratios.

A Final Word

The descriptions and analyses expressed in this and every article on this website represent the views and opinions of the author.

The Dog Food Advisor does not test dog food products.

We rely almost entirely on the integrity of the information posted by each company on its website. As such, the accuracy of every review is directly dependent upon the quality of the test results from any specific batch of food a company chooses to publish.

Although it's our goal to ensure all the information on this website is correct, we cannot guarantee its completeness or its accuracy; nor can we commit to ensuring all the material is kept up-to-date on a daily basis.

Each review is offered in good faith and has been designed to help you make a more informed decision when buying dog food.

However, due to the biological uniqueness of every animal, none of our ratings are intended to suggest feeding a particular product will result in a specific dietary response or health benefit for your pet.

For a better understanding of how we analyze each product, please read our article, "The Problem with Dog Food Reviews".

Remember, no dog food can possibly be appropriate for every life stage, lifestyle or health condition. So, choose wisely. And when in doubt, consult a qualified veterinary professional for help.

In closing, we do not accept money, gifts or samples from pet food companies in exchange for special consideration in the preparation of our reviews or ratings.

To learn how we support the cost of operating this website, please visit our public Disclosure and Disclaimer page.

Have an opinion about this dog food? Or maybe the review itself? Please know we welcome your comments.

Other spellings: Origen, Orijin

Notes and Updates

03/05/2015 Last Update

  1. Association of American Feed Control Officials
  • Christine Daley

    Hi again. Anyway just went on ziwi peak web site and happily found that due to consumer concerns about the carrageenan in their dog foods they have removed it along with sodium Tripolyphosphates. Great news. Would not use the product with this stuff in it as linked to cancers!! Other than that ziwi peak looks good!! Basically looking to add more moisture to their diets!! I will have to check when the new shipments without the carrageenan are available!! Fyi!!

  • Christine Daley

    Hey crazy for dogs. Interested in adding a canned food to my pets rotation!! Any recommendations. Was looking at ziwi peak but not happy with that carrageenan in it?? Thanks!! Any thoughts on carragenan??

  • Ray Korbyl

    What’s with this site,I posted twice

  • Ray Korbyl

    I also like Fromm’s family values and there quality control too and the precise brand of dog foods is top notch to,highly recommend them three dog food companies and they all have great customer service and care what they serve our dogs and there dogs too..

  • Ray Korbyl

    I read on here lower down on the comments about how expensive orijen is,well if you want the best you have to pay for the best,its like this if you have the money for a Cadillac Escalade your gonna buy one and not a ford escape so what I am getting at is it costs champion pet foods a lot more to buy premium quality ingredients to put in there dog foods and they are probably only making $8 to $10 a bag after expenses,when you buy that turkey at easter its probably $40 to $50 at the store and turkeys here in Alberta turkeys sell for $15 to $20 to buy and orijen has to process and pay the farmer going rate for that turkey,same go for the cows they are selling from $950 to $1500 here in Alberta and no farmer is gonna lose money,there gonna sell market rate to orijen, same goes with the fish so all you people crying about how much orijen dog food Is i think I just paid $60 for a 15pound bag and I live in Alberta where its made,if you want the best you have to pay the price for it or you can go and buy Walmart special for $40 and watch your **** and vomit it up and gradually kill your dog slowly or feed your dog a brand of dog food with one if the best reputations in the market and trust that your dog is getting the best quality dog food money can buy…I truly believe in Campion pet foods and there products..They are the Cadillac of dog foods.

    [profanity deleted by the moderator]

  • Shawna

    As you start introducing new foods you will find that the transition becomes easier and easier (if it was at all problematic to begin with). I have six dogs now but usually have eight or more in my house and we have NO transition time with zero issues once they are used to it. In fact, I add a new food about every two to three days as I use kibble, canned and raw. Each time I add a new can or raw or kibble I just switch (protein and brand).

  • Dog_Obsessed

    Yeah! I had always heard not to change I dog’s food, but rotation actually made perfect sense when I thought about it. My dog, Lily will get tired of her food after around a month anyway, so rotating every month or so works pretty well. Rotation can really be at any frequency though. Many dogs will build up stomach strength over time, so the transition periods can usually be shortened after a while, and for some dogs they can eventually be phased out.

  • pitlove

    I havent been but I’d love to. I know its better for dogs to each a variety of foods rather than the same food for their whole lives. Thanks for the link! Im gonna look into it more

  • Dog_Obsessed

    Okay, cool! It sounds like you may already be doing this, but transitioning food regularly, also called rotational feeding, is something that I support. Learn more here: http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/frequently-asked-questions/diet-rotation-for-dogs/

  • pitlove

    Since I have had him (got him at 12 weeks old) he has always been a high protein diet. Sadly the breeder had him on Purina Puppy Chow which we instantly switched him off of. He transitioned onto Blue Wilderness Puppy Formula but eventually stopped wanting to eat that. He had an issue switching to NV but it was my fault as I did it too fast. This time I will make sure not to make that mistake

  • Dog_Obsessed

    Has he ever had issues with high protein transitions before? If not, I would’t worry about it. Just be sure to transition him slowly, over at least a week, but more if needed. Adding digestive enzymes or probiotics, such as The Honest Kitchen Perfect Form can also help with transitions, especially if he has had issues with transitions in the past. Good luck!

  • pitlove

    Ok so, I believe Orijen’s Regional Red is going to be the next food my dog is switched too. It’s got the least carbs of any dog food I’ve seen at my work and online and I’m extremely impressed by Champion and the quality of their food. My dog is currently on canned and dry food. The canned we kinda mix it up for him (trying to stay away from carbs best we can as he has a yeast infection under his nail beds) but the dry we do is Nature’s Variety Instinct Raw Boost. I have been reading about the high protein content people have commented about on this review and am wondering if my dog (in peoples best opinions here) will have issues transitioning. NV Instinct Raw Boost is 35% protein and Regional Red is 38%. I truly do not know if that even though it’s only a 3% difference is going to be too much for him to handle. He is a pitbull btw. Looking for thoughts and opinions

  • pitlove

    Cane Corso’s are one of my favorite breeds and just so happens to be the next dog Im getting. I’m so pleased to see you doing the right thing by your Corso. He can 100% benefit from Orijen, any breed of dog can

  • Tracy

    What Orijin did you feed?

  • Crazy4dogs

    Cute! I love Labs! I kinda thought the 2 in the canoe weren’t yours. ;) LOL!

  • Christine Daley

    These are my real guys.

  • Crazy4dogs

    Cute! I finish the trifecta. I have black & chocolate! :)

  • Christine Daley

    Absolutely!! Thanks crazy 4 dogs!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    I know it’s actually easier living in a Polar Vortex type of state when it comes to all the treatments. LOL! I just like to throw it out there as it can be helpful to anyone else that might be interested.

  • Christine Daley

    Hi crazy 4 dogs. I assure you I am aware of all this information out there. I have tried natural oils as a flea repellant. I vacuum their beds, they are bathed regularly, cleanest pups in town and still found fleas on their backs. I live in an upscale community, sprayed regularly, clean neighborhood dogs and still fleas!! I cannot have a flea infestation in my home!! December through February not bad but after that it’s all over. It is hot and the humidity builds and the bugs just love it!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    So there are some good points to living in a Polar Vortex area. :)

  • Shawna

    Merck Manual still has the longer L4 stage data as well.

    “In canids and other susceptible hosts, infective larvae (L3) molt into a fourth stage (L4) in 3–12 days. After remaining in the subcutaneous tissue, abdomen, and thorax for ~2 mo, the L4 larvae undergo their final molt at day 50–70 into young adults, arriving in the heart and pulmonary arteries ~70–120 days following initial infection.” http://www.merckmanuals.com/vet/circulatory_system/heartworm_disease/overview_of_heartworm_disease.html

  • Shawna

    I JUST posted something about heartworms, linking marvistavet, on my Facebook group page on Monday… If the data is incorrect, I’d like to note it. :) But again, I’ll try to find the paper as I know your time is limited right now.

  • Shawna

    Sorry, don’t mean to make you work harder than you have time and energy for… :) Just want to make sure I understand the current data.

    American Heartworm Society hasn’t updated their website with the new info yet.. “Unfortunately, in as little as 51 days, immature heartworm larvae can
    molt into an adult stage, which cannot be effectively eliminated by
    preventives.” https://www.heartwormsociety.org/pet-owner-resources/heartworm-basics#how-do-monthly-heartworm-preventives-work

    If the paper/study is new enough they could still be in the process of updating of course. I know your time is limited. I’ll try to find the paper.

    I do see where I was incorrect, as you state, about Ivermectin working on early stage L5. Not sure why that was in my head but not finding anything reliable to support that thought. grrr =)

  • Crazy4dogs

    I’m not suggesting a long term course. I’m very familiar with it as I’ve had dogs and have a current foster with chronic high liver ALT diagnosed as chronic hepatitis. If there are no liver issues, there is no need of Milk Thistle.

    However, a lot of the holistic vets recommend a 7 day course of Milk Thistle after giving the heartworm and spot ons as a liver detox. I know Dr. Karen Becker recommends it. Here’s one link:

    http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/02/15/detox-for-pets.aspx

    I’m curious since you said you use Heartguard Plus. That’s sort of a multiple worm medication. Have you thought of using just Heartguard, the Ivermection only version?

    Here’s another link from Dr. Karen Becker with some of the EPA studies of Spot On Treatments:

    http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2010/03/31/dangers-of-flea-and-tick-problems.aspx

  • theBCnut

    This has an explaination of the different stages in their lifecycle that is pretty good, but has the average days that I was always used to, not the one from the article I’m actually looking for.

    http://www.heartworm.com/research/life-cycle

    And now I really have to run.

  • theBCnut

    http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_heartworm_prevention.html
    So far, this is the only site I have found that actually mentions the stages, and it is definitely NOT what I was referring to. I don’t have time to look right now, but it could have even been the literature that comes with Heartgard and Interceptor that I was reading or something from American Heartworm Society and I just can’t find it. In my messed up mind, it looked like AMS stuff, but I couldn’t find it again there. Makes me wonder if the vet has access to a different side of their site or something like that. Whatever it was, it was very specific about how many days the larva were in each stage, so it had to be about the lifecycle of heartworms in relation to when preventives kill.

  • theBCnut

    Well, I haven’t looked long yet, so I haven’t found the article, but yes, L5, not L3. L3 is the stage they are at to be infective from the mosquito. Everything in my brain has been through the blender recently and it hasn’t settled back into place yet. Sigh! I wonder if it ever will…

    Nope, I take that back, well not all of it, my brain has been through a blender. Ivermectin is supposed to kill during the stages where the worm is in the skin, so before L5. It is supposed to work best at L3 and less or not at all at L4. Man, I have got to find that paper.

  • theBCnut

    Shawna, it’s been so long since I had to know this stuff off the top of my head and life has thrown me quite a number of curve balls just lately, so I could easily be getting my 3s and 5s mixed up, which I have a tendancy to do anyway, but my brain is saying Ivermectin kills best at L3 and gets rapidly worse to near nonexistent for L4 and L5 and that Moxidectin kills better at L4 and L5. I could be totally confused and next week my overloaded brain could be telling me something totally different. Whichever L it is, Ivermectin works best for only that one stage and some larva leave that stage quicker, at about 40 days, according to the article. Moxi works better in the next stages, whichever L they are. That’s also why you are supposed to give Moxi for 3 months after the last mosquito bite, because of the range of days in which the larva enter into the stages that Moxi kills. I’m sorry my brain is just too soggy these days for a good discussion. Now I’m really going to have to dig to see if I can find that info. Knowing me, I’m so messed up right now that I’m confusing info on horse, goat, or sheep worms with dog worms, who knows!

  • Shawna

    I know several vets give dosing information but I’m posting from my phone and it’s hard enough to type let alone copy /paste.. I’ll look it up tomorrow and post if someone else doesn’t beat me to it.. :)

  • Shawna

    LOL.. I thought Ivermectin killed early stage L5 but became less and less effective as L5 stage progressed?

  • theBCnut

    What I read was specifically about ivermectin and the length of time that some larva take to go to L4. Milbemycin kills later stages than ivermectin, from what I’ve read.

  • theBCnut

    No, it was old research, just the newest I’ve seen. There are apparently some larva that hit L4 after 40 days, but before 45. It’s not common. I’ve treated every 45 days for years, but recently have heard about this not working in rare instances.
    Border Collies, potato chips, who knew?

  • Christine Daley

    Do you know how it would be given?? Did not give specifics about it in anything that I read. Main focus was liver disorders!!

  • Shawna

    Milk thistle isn’t just used for liver disease. It can also help the liver clear medications as it is glutathione “sparing”. Losul found that it can however be counterindicated with certain drugs if dosing is not timed properly. LOTS of well respected holistic vets recommend milk thistle after monthly preventatives. Edit – probably best to work with a vet on timing and dose.

  • Christine Daley

    Hi crazy4 dogs. Looked into the milk thistle thing for dogs. Being in the medical field I was aware of what it is used for but didn’t think about it for my dogs just because on heart guard plus. AnywY doesn’t look too highly recommended for that. Should not be given to healthy dogs as a daily supplement. Used for tx of liver disorders, cancers, etc. Dewormers used somewhere in the articles but not overly stressed. My pups are healthy without liver disease. I have used heart guard plus for years without parasite infection or incident!! I think shall just go with that until something better comes along.

  • Shawna

    BC,

    Are you saying that newer research is suggesting it is taking less than 45 days for larvea to mature from L3 to L5 stage?

  • Christine Daley

    I agree. Florida is the mosquito capital of the world. Cannot chance not treating my pups monthly. I have used heart guard plus for years without infection or incident. Wish I didn’t have to but the benefit of heart guard plus definitely outweighs the risk of heart worm infection in my pups!!

  • theBCnut

    The latest research I have read says that some larva move on to the stage that the monthly doesn’t touch in as little as 40 days. most common is over 45 days, but you can’t count on most common, at least I can’t. I would get the rare mosquito carrying the rare heartworm larva.

    I, also, must treat year round. We had mosquitoes all winter long this year.

  • Christine Daley

    Thanks!! I will!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    If you do dose often you might look into Milk Thistle to help detox.

  • Christine Daley

    I have read some literature on it but will look again. I believe the newer research went with the monthly dosing over 45 days and definitely not 60 days. I use the brown box of heart guard plus 51 to 100 pounds. My pups are 75 pound range so right in the middle which I like. When I think about it because I separate the topical flea from the heart guard plus by about one week and some months have 5 weeks I probably do not administer every 30 days. Probably more like 35 days. Like I mentioned high mosquito area here especially June through October!! Must protect my pups!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    I thought I’d read it there too but couldn’t remember. Thanks for posting that Shawna! :-)

  • Shawna

    One of mine, the one that was pretty seriously vaccine injured, will sometimes get fleas at the very end of the year. None of her seven brothers and sisters have ever had the problem but she (not every year) has. I treat her with DE for a week when it happens and she’s good to go.

  • Shawna

    I don’t give prescription heartworm meds and haven’t for 25 years (10 dogs). There are natural products that have been shown to kill adult heartworms as well as larvea. That said, I do understand why most opt to give prescription products. It is a scary illness.

    Dr. Dodds (and others) also recommend dosing every 45 days, as suggested by Crazy4dogs, if one can remember to do so. “Foremost, I recommend administering heartworm preventive every 45 days instead of every 30 days, but only if this interval is strictly adhered to. If it’s difficult to keep track with a reminder calendar, then your dog may need to stay on the medication every month. ” http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/46289883129/dodds-heartworm-preventives#.VSRFmOFH4do

  • Christine Daley

    Yes I recently purchased 2 large bags of the new tundra kibble. The large bag of tundra is 25 pounds vs 28.6 for the regional red and 6 fish. I rotate the tundra and the regional red in the mornings as they are the meat formulas and 6 fish in the evening with a freeze dried medallion. They truly love them all!! Despite the price I will continue the new tundra in their rotation!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    Christine, I don’t know if you want to do the research, but I’ve read that the Heartworm actually lasts for about 6 weeks and for those that need continual protection that might be an option to use a bit less.

    Here’s the Dogaware info on spacing out the dosage:

    http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjheartwormprevention.html#frequency

  • Christine Daley

    Good info crazy4 dogs. I happen to live in the number one red state so I must administer the heart worm medication every month!! I do separate the heart worm med from the topical flea prevention by one week. Unfortunately I need both!! I also use a topical natural spray by vetri science for added flea protection!! Extremely high flea and mosquito area!! Not so much with the tics!! Thank goodness for that!!

  • Crazy4dogs

    I only give my personal dogs (fosters must abide by rescue rules) 1-2 (maybe) heartworm treatment per year, if that. I do test my dogs on a regular basis and stagger everyone’s test so it happens at various times during the year. I also live in a cold winter climate and if there are no mosquitos, there can be no heartworm.

    Heartworm in the warm states is an issue for concern. If you are in a Heartworm area, more frequent treatments may be necessary. Here is a map for general information from Karen Becker:

    http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2010/08/03/why-havent-pet-owners-been-told-these-facts-about-heartworm.aspx

    We’ve never had heartworm. I also don’t use flea/tick treatments. While we have had the occaisonal tick, easily removed, we have never had fleas.

  • Kristin Mosley

    I get him tested 2-3 times a year. I use essential oils for flea prevention and also diatomaceous earth on them and sprinkled in the house. I’ve had one pet get fleas from outside and the rest not get them so it must work. One out of four animals die of cancer. So far, I’ve beat those odds. One of my family members has had two of three of his dogs die of cancer, and he follows his vets instructions to a t. But hopefully for you in just lucky.

  • Brittney B

    I just switched to Orijen from Purina Beneful for my 8 month old Yorkie mix puppy. She was on Purina when I got her and saw no reason to change until I read an article about the Beneful issues. I decided to learn more about dog food so I could pick a high quality food to keep her healthy for life. I decided to give Orijen a try, opting to mix the rest of her current bag (only like 1.5 lbs left in it) with the new stuff. She disagreed lol. She dug through the bowl and only ate the Orijen food, outside of her bowl was a pile of the Purina that she spit out in her search for the new food. I couldn’t help but chuckle as I told my husband “Clearly dogs are more picky than they are given credit for.”

  • JJ

    I agree Tundra is expensive! I’ve recently gone from Regional Red to Tundra. Tundras unique ingredients are the reason for it costing so much more. I notice the bag is also smaller than the others. My Brittany Spaniel loves it though!

  • Crazy4dogs

    I probably use Merrick most often for canned, but I also use By Nature, Canidae Pure, Earthborn, Whole Earth Farms, sometimes Wellness Core, Evangers. I just rotate.

  • Marat Bleykhman

    Which one you rotate between?

  • Crazy4dogs

    Absolutely!!! :-) I honestly rotate between 5 star rated canned foods & rotate kibble too.
    Adding moisture to your dog’s food is the best thing you can do. I add warm water along with the canned so it’s kind of saucy.

  • Marat Bleykhman

    Can we feed can food along with Orejin? Is it a good idea? If you are feeding canned food along with Acana or Orejin please tell which one?

  • Nuwisha

    But humans were also apes that ate things raw, and raw things give us a tummyache.

    Our pets are almost as civilized as we are, whether we like it or not. They need cooked food as much as we do. They are not wild animals any more than humans are wild chimps.

  • Crazy4dogs

    ;)

  • theBCnut

    Ya think? LOL!

  • theBCnut

    Humans, not dogs. Dr. Mercola is a human doctor. Articles by Dr. Karen Becker apply to animals, but not just dogs, so you still have to read to know what she is talking about.

  • theBCnut

    So what? You asked.
    Sorry about the comment. My device only showed me the one post and I replied to that. Then I went looking further and saw that reading was not the issue, so I removed it. However, on your other post to me, you used an article about HUMAN medicine as proof that high protein is detrimental to dogs. Maybe WHAT you are reading is the problem.
    If you were a CVT, then you know what they think they know about medicine changes over time. That’s why continuing education is a requirement. What they though they know about protein levels and dogs was based on bad research. They have improved their methods and found that protein level is not the issue, though protein quality may be. I believe you were provided with some links already.

  • Crazy4dogs

    Do you realize that you sent a mercola article regarding human protein? I believe we are omnivores. I think theBCnut is referring to dogs as this is a dog food site.

  • 1bestdog