How to Choose Dog Food

thank you for your comment. I am excited about our new addition to our family. I lost my yellow lab about a month ago, due to bone cancer, he was 14.5yr. it has taken me longer to ‘bounce back’ and look for a new dog. I am ready now, and I am very excited. do you groom your dog yourself? I am looking into grooming tools. any websites or input would be welcome!

Hi Wendy –

As Betsy said the new formulation of the Orijen Large Breed puppy food looks like it has acceptable calcium levels for large breed puppies (the old formula was too high in calcium). I’d be careful with the Nature’s Variety raw though, if you do use it I’d recommend using a small amount as a topper to the kibble only – many of the formulas are excessive in calcium. If you can get it, a great raw item for large breed puppies is green tripe – it has a balanced calcium to phosphorus ratio (1:1) but has very low levels of each. I order green tripe from My Pet Carnivore and Hare Today (both have reasonable prices and pretty low shipping depending on where you live). High levels of protein have not been shown to cause growth issues in large breed puppies, however calcium levels greater than 3.5 g./1,000 have been linked to developmental orthopedic disease. I fed my last bloodhound pup a high protein (45% – 55%) raw diet with controlled calcium levels since she came home at 8 weeks and she had slow, controlled growth.

hi
I will be adopting a golden retriever in July of this year. He will be 8weeks old. I was wondering if there is a rule of thumb on protein levels? is it safe to feed an 8weeks lg breed dog high protein levels from foods like Origen puppy and Natures Variety raw? I don’t want to push the growth on my puppy. but I want to feed great quality foods. dry, raw, and canned. thank you

I have been researching all the different dog foods on this website, which is very informative. It is also helpful to go to your local pet store and ask for samples. I have pretty much settled on a few different varieties of Fromm’s grain free, Orijen regional red and a topper of Grandma Lucy’s. I asked about their raw and frozen products, my pet store has 10 freezers and 2 fridges, they have trial size of Stella and Chewy’s that were under $5 and they gave me a 1lb. Roll of the Freshpet Vital roll to try. Not to mention Fromm had a deal that when you buy a 12lb bag of any flavor you got a 4lb bag of the pork and peas free. So my advice is to ask for samples, most distributors provide them to the pet stores.

Hi, I need some help please. I have just got the most beautiful little 7 week male Maltese pup and all I want to do is give him the best but I do not know which is the best dry dog food in South Africa. Does any one have any suggestions?

Hi Mari,

Without knowing exactly what food you chose, it’s probably a “senior” formula. Is there a particular reason you chose the food that you did; ie: specific health or dietary needs?

I have a 1-1/2 year old Cavalier that’s currently eating Orijen Senior because she needed to lose a few pounds. The Orijen Senior is a bit lower in fat and has a bit more fiber without compromising protein. Depending on your pups need and your reason for choosing the formula you did, it might be fine.

I did not know tht, thanks for correcting. Regarding Steve’s real food, just an FYI to anyone reading, they did have a recall.

Judy, You will most likely not find anyplace that has free shipping for raw. It costs more to ship due to dry eyes and the coolers. If you are looking into Darwins, get their started package for $14.95, add it to their current food, a little bit. Darwins will ask you to sign up for auto shipments, you can easily cancel with one call.

Thanks Patty! The picture (is that my avitar) is my 5 yr old Cav-a Mo (CKCS/Mini Eskimo mix) I rescued her when she was born at shelter with her 5 identical sisters,—well< I mean her mom was in shelter pregnant, and cuz I knew she was part CKCS (one of my favorite breeds) I reserved her before she was even ready to go home. She and her 5 sisters were fostered in the home of one of the shelter volunteers, so they never had to spend time in a shelter, just a cozy home being well-loved) anyway, that is Tillie, for whom I am doing all this research, while I should be doing household chores lol:)

Hi Judy, I think it is a great idea for you and your neighbors to order together. Since you are on a budget, maybe you could do one meal Raw, and one meal canned each day? Look into the prices. If it’s too expensive, don’t feel bad. Canned food is also very species appropriate. Eggs and Sardines are cheap and great additions to dogs meals.

tractorsupply.com

Thanx, Patty. I was wondering if it was to far of a jump to go from Natural Balance LID kibble (soaked in homemade chicken broth And:should I fitler out the chicken grease from the homeade chicken broth or dies the dog need the fat on the broth–I do see chicken fat listed as an ingredient in some dog foods) Right now she is on her NB LID kibble she has been on for 5 yrs, but since reading this site for the past month, have been soaking kibble in chicken broth and I recently topped with a slice of Vital roll, _and Once I did that, wow, first time she ever ate her whole food bowl immediately_(she has always been a grazer, so I can see she likes anything (canned, roll, broth soaked ) is tasting better than just the NB LID small kibble, but how should I transition to Raw if not mixed with the soaked kibble>

Should I NOT mix the kibble in with the raw when transitioning to raw (thinking about Darwin’s –has anyone had any problems with this brand__I think I read on raw food forum where someone’s dogs were throwing up clear froth, but maybe it was because mixed with kibble-so should I NOT feed transition NB LID (Small breed bites) kibble together in same bowl at same time??? how do I transition if not fed at same time_ at separate mealtimes? Is that how to transition? Haven’t ordered it yet, just trying to get the game plan directions clear before I do. Also, which would be best supplements (for breed characteristic problems) prevention and any of you with CKCS (?Betsy?or Mini American Eskimos (the 2 breeds my mixed dog has)

Gosh, reading my original confused rambling posts, I a surprised anyone even answered cuz I sound like a rambiling CRAZY nut I was so confused and felt desparate running out of the old food (to transition with)

THANK YOU SO MUCH for hanging in there to actually read my crazed posts and especially for the suggestions and I have talked two of my neighbors into trying and transitioning their dogs also into whatever research and choose, probably and then we could order together and get the 10% discount since they only live across the street from me in our retirement community and they are also on social security, but our dogs are our beloved “children” and most important priority in our lives. Our dogs play together and walk our dogs together) and I think by “co-op” type buying (since we live just feet from each other will be affordable (haven’t checked the pricing yet, but I will do whatever is necessary to keep my little girl in best health) I will also research Kirkland (and renew my old Costco membership) and also look into 4health at Tractor Supply. I think also if I look for a 5 star (with no “red” ingredients either raw frozen or canned food that I can order online with FREE SHIPPING (when quantity order is high enough with by co-op-ing by adding my two neighbors’ order to my order, that it will def be more affordable. Does anyone know a of a Free Shipping deal or offer or supplier that I could also investigate for our co_op use that ha 5 star (with no “red” ingredients either raw frozen or canned food that I can order online with FREE SHIPPING when quantity order is high enough to get free shipping?

I can’t tell you how helpful both of your responses have been to helping focus my decision. Now to investigate Darwin’s cost with my neighbors and also look into Kirkland and renewing my Costco card and looking into the 4 Health at Tractor supply.

One last question about the Darwin’s (I have never fed raw food to my dog, so I hope she
will eat it–does anyone ever have a problem with their dog not eating
raw when it is presented? (would be an expensive experiment if nose is turned up and not eaten)
Thx soooo much again, for your help focusing me on where to start with all my confusion and concerns, Judy

Hi Judy! I agree with dr Karen Becker who says that raw is best, pre made or prey model. I fed Darwin’s and my dogs did great on it! If you go to their website, you can order the trial pack. They ill ask you to sign up for your next order but one phone call will cancel it. If you can afford it, you get a 10 % discount if you order 40 pounds. There are many other pre made raws out there. Keep in mind that the fat should be about half of the protein. For me, Darwin’s was cheaper than Natures Variety and Stella & Chewys.

LabsRawsome, Thanks so much for your reply. I lost my login and havent replied sooner, but , I lost my login info til just now, and I have been reading this site for over a month or more,trying to figure out which 5 starcanned food without any “red” ingredients to transition my dog to …and by now I need to get busy making a decision of what to purchase to mix with what I have left of her current Natural Balance LID kibble ( I have about 5 lb or so left.) ..

Until today, was going to switch to canned 5 star. Today I am reading about Darwin’s raw frozen, and like what I am reading and am hoping since she is only 20 pound eats 2 3/4 cup meals of soaked kibble with a topper per day (is that an appropriate serving size?) I am now thinking that Darwin’s would be best for my 20 pound, almost 6 year old healthy, energetic ,(but sometimes can be a couch potato spending hours a day relaxing on the furniture until something exciting happens; and a doggie friend comes by to run in yard with, then, she is all up for it and can run faster than any dog on the block.

For purposes of deciding which food is best for her breed size/type: she is CKCS/Mini Eskimo mix.

She tends to clean/lick herself like a cat often ( her feet/ and sanitary area ) and a few months ago, she did chew a couple little spots on the skin (allergy? vet wondered when I took her in for it, but we didn’t allergy test-) –but she is no longer doing that, Over the past few weeks I have been soaking her remaining NB LID kibble in natural chicken broth I make from boiling what is leftover from making a broth (from the bones, trimmings from a whole cooked chicken, or soaking her NB LID kibble in some homemade chicken soup, and adding either some chopped chicken or a half inch -3/4″ slice of FreshPet Vital, chopped I added to the soaked kibble) as a transition to adding more wet food to transition her off of the NB LID to gradually going just to a wet food (canned or frozen raw-which I haven’t started yet, because I haven’t decided yet which canned or wet food to transition her to, because I cannot seem to decide which brand to go to ( hence my question)–.Would Darwin’s frozen raw be good for her characteristics? Or should I go with a grain-free canned …(PLEASE, if anyone can please make some suggestions of a 5-star brand wet food (canned or whether I should try the Darwin’s raw frozen and whether I should aim for a half raw frozen and half canned and if so, which brand of 5 star canned would be best for my dog’s characteristics above protein source, these suggestions will greatly help my indecision, so that I can get a purchase made to start the transition process—Should I transition to it (either raw frozen Darwin’s or canned exclusively, (mix for now with her Natural Balance LID dry kibble until my current supply (about 5lb or so left, I think) is exhausted, to transition and then switch to half of a better dry kibble and half Darwin’s raw frozen, or totally get off the dry kibble and do half canned (which Brand do u guys recommend for my dog’s details) or just do completely Darwin’s raw frozen? I think my priority is this: keeping her healthy and encouraging a long healthy life for her, rather than worrying about getting a more affordable food, because it save vet expense in long run by keeping her healthy. That seems to me to be the better priority (even though I mostly live on my monthly social security ck. , plus some sporadic/ variable self employment income. For a small 20 lb dog, does it seem like this expense would be reasonable, or should I go with a 5-star canned food (please, if anyone can make some recommendations for a grain-free, with no”red” ingredients to try) …I have spent over a month or so reading this site, trying to figure out what would be the best food to start transitioning her to the best 5 star food so if anyone can give me some suggestions where to start (which brand grain-free canned and how much to feed and whether half and half of canned and raw frozen or ? I would be so grateful. I’s sorry my question is so long, I will try to be more concise in the future, but I would love some suggestions in answer to my question above, so that I can make a purchase asap to get started on this transition, and hopefully I won’t need to buy more of the food I want to transition her fro, (unless you all think I should buy more of the NB LID I want to get her off of, for the transition process. How long do you suggest I stretch the transition? Pls excuse my repetitive rambling question,: I feel confused and just need a little direction to know where to start, so welcoming all sugestions, (from anyone who has managed to wade thru my long above rambling question) I just need to get a purchase made to start this transition, and am asking for suggestions so I don’t wast a bunch of money making the wrong choices (I will probably order online, and try to get the benefit of a discount for a larger purchase all at once or free shipping for a certain $ amount purchase, so need help making some choice. She does like the FreshPet Vital slices, but if Frozen raw would be better or supplemented with canned, (which Brand? where to start I want to get her the best quality possible if I can afford it) or should I continue with FreshPet Vital topping on soaked kibble and just switch to a better quality 5-star kibble instead of what I now realize b reading this site over the past month or so, that she has been on a 3-star kibble for the past few years

If I continue with FreshPet Vital, I can get it locally, but is it a good value of what she need for the cost? I wonder if I shouldn’t just stop kibble altogether via transition to either a 5 star canned (?Brand) or to Raw frozen Darwin’s (and if so, anyone care to recommend a protein source or flavor that might be best for her characteristics?) — All Opinions welcome,now pulling myself away from laptop cuz I keep repeating myself now, obsessively, (Pls forgive my rambling repetitiveness in this question, I promise I will get more concise if I can just get some directon out of my confused indecision by applying some suggestions I may get here)- byt I need to get started on this transition and need to buy something and would like it to be the type and brand that would be the best option to aim toward even though I know there is no one perfect answer for every dog, I just need to figure out where to start and stop ruminating over this and get something purchased to mix what I have that I want to get her off of, and get her moving off dry food and onto more wet or raw frozen which I think should be affordable for one small dogThanks, Judyor raw frozen

I just wrote a long question and it vanished when I added pictures of my dog, Tillie, below. She will be 6 in June only 19.5-20 pounds a Cav-a-mo (CKCS/Eskimo or mini Eskimo mix . (mostly fur and pink skin) …Very healthy, except she licks her feet and fur a lot like a cat. Once she had a hot spot and vet said it could be allergies but without extensive testing, he couldn’t tell to what. It cleared up. She has been on Natural Balance LID most of her life, (except for about a year on Artemis dry- the good one- but somehow I switched to Natural Balance LID, thinking it was better, but I now see it is only a 3-star and that even tho costly,that the ingredients maybe aren’t as good as they could be.. and after reading this site for at least a month,I am really confused.

I want to get her on the best 5 star quality dry and wet food for her breed and activity level, but I am not sure what that is, and there are no holistic vets nearby (most vets will recommend Science Diet or the like,so Id rather get advice here. ) I just don’t know where to start–do I start with her bred and then the activity level or do I go grain =-free a=or hypoallergenic. and since she is a mixed breed, do I start with small breed 5 star foods, then which category factor shallI narrow it down to first? I will probably have to mail order because I don’t think there is a feed store nearby, and the local Petco and Petsmarts have BB and Natural Balance and the like, but not Victors (which sounds excellent and also may be better value for the price. Petco has some, but doesn’t have many of the other 5 star foods. and I am not sure how to choose a brand (and then a type from within the brand) for my dog

‘Recently I have been adding Vital by FreshPet to her dry food (which I have lately been soaking in homemade chicken broth or water and mixing with the wet topper. I would like to get her on a both a 5 star dry and wet food. I would still soak the dry food in broth when I have it. But I don’t know which new food to get her and I dont want to start her on the wrong one and upset her stomach swithching back and forth (altho- I am reading that varying the diet is a good thing–iI am so confused)

Any suggestions where to begin? Every time I think I have decided upon one brand, I hear something about it that disuades me. BB sent me $8.00 in coupons after visiting site their site and registering, but then I read all the warnings about BB and when I went to Petco and was going to get the Wildeness, they told me that was for a more active dog. My dog,Tillie can run really fast and jump really high and play hard when doggie friend comes to visit in the yard, but other that that, she is a couch potato at times, except for her walk, which she loves….So should I start with a 5 star Small Breed brand for Adult medium energy dogs? and if so, which one (s) do you folks recommend? I wish there was a food-choosing computer tool where you could start with the breed, age and size, and energy and whether allergies, etc (whatever deciding factor to choose the appropriate food for whatever type and you end up with some recommended choices, but since there is no such tool to help me figure this out, I am asking for any suggestions you all may have. Thanks for reading my rambling confusion`Judy

Have 2 yorkies a male 1 yr & a female 9 months, they are on a rawfood diet which I purchase from a company in Calf, due to the cost I am considering changing them to a dry food. There are so many out there, does anyone have any sugguestions on a food I can try??

I agree with you HDM, and mostly I just give COQ10 and Standard Process Cardiac Support. With Stella, when she got older and we were told she had a grade 5 murmur, I used Thorne’s Bio Cardio or Nutri-Vet Cardio Strength. Sometimes Hazel will get those because she has a grade 2 murmur. I also wish I could see those pups lol!

One of my favorite pictures! We had it hanging up for years at the shelter – then we did some renovations and I don’t know what happened to it I loved it because the dog looks so much like Gertie! If only the cat looked like Coconut…

HDM

Off topic, but when I ran across this pic, i thought of Gertrude.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_e-mPA_6ZQyg/RnFoP0o9zxI/AAAAAAAACHs/vDQv-7FDP6M/s400/135cat-dog.jpg

Hi HDM!

I’d be curious to see what you, and the others, think about the prophylactic use of supplements. I use excellent quality kibbles, canned toppers, raw cage free eggs and sardines and the occasional meal of Darwin’s. I currently supplement with organic coconut oil, Mercola probiotics and enzymes and Solid Gold Seameal (since Bella didn’t care for the krill oil I got for her).

So, I’ve been looking at kibble ingredients in particular and am thinking of making it a point to only have foods in Bella’s rotation that include taurine, CoQ10, L-carnitine, etc. I’ve since discovered it’s really hard to find a high quality kibble with lots of quality meat protein and moderate fat ~ and knowing that the levels of those ingredients probably aren’t sufficient to be considered a “supplement” in the first place.

So herein lies my dilemma, Bella is my favorite puppy (shhh, if you see him, don’t tell Sam). When she was under anesthesia at Christmas time, they did a chest x-ray which looked perfect. I have no reason whatsoever to think that she has a heart problem at all, but because I know Cavaliers are predisposed to heart problems, I feel like I should be giving her some kind of special cardiac supplement, like this one: http://www.thorne.com/Products/VeterinaryProducts/prd~V940.jsp; but, is it necessary or even advisable?

I have a newly 7 year old dog, and am looking to upgrade his dog food (currently, Fromm’s Adult Gold) to a senior formula. He is a very tall dog, and rather skinny, I’m looking for something that promotes joint health. Can anyone recommend a high-quality, senior dog food with joint supplements? Currently, Fromm’s only adds probiotics to their senior formula.
Thanks very much!

Nice reply HDM!!

Now that Omega 6 is considered a risk for people will it be re-evaluated for dogs … I still see it in many dry foods.

most dry dog food is made of small kibble and our 70 pound large mix breed golden lab will swallow instead of chewing. chewing is good for his teeth,gums etc..the only large kibble easily available is pedegree for large breed, a low grade food i mix with either blue buffalo or tuscian brand that we started to use this year.

who makes a good large kibble dog food ?

any input ?

steve

I suggest Fromm

I meant to say my oldest is 12 or 13 YO Boston Terrier..

A good quality canned, like Merrick, is a great specie appropriate diet.  Dry was always recommended by vets because it was believed that it would keep the teeth clean.  They have found that it really doesn’t work.  Dry is also less expensive for bigger dogs, but that really isn’t an issue for you.

Courtney,

yes the purpose of the enteric coating is supposed to be;

1) deliver the oil to the intestines where it can be used, instead of the stomach where the acids destroy much of it.

2) reduce burping of fish oil.

and hopefully it’s not this one;

3) to mask the rank scent/taste of poor quality and/or old/rancid oil.

Keep in mind a dogs stomach acids are more powerful than ours. The following were human studies;

The New England Journal of Medicine published a paper that proved that patients needed only one-third the amount of fish oil if it was enteric coated. Delivering omega-3 intact to the intestines instead of the stomach, allowed 3X as much Omega-3 to be absorbed into the phospholipid membrane. The study was done on patients with Crohn’s disease but the take away message about the absorption can be applied to healthy population as well.

Another paper compared studies that used enteric coated fish oil capsules – three studies used enteric coated capsules with positive results and one used ordinary gelatin capsules (no advantage).

But why worry about all this and more (like over health risks of over-supplementing, the heavy metals that could be in some of the large predator fish oils, rancidity,  and instead supplement the diet with a few sardines and the occaisonal egg. It’s what i do, no fish oil, other than whats naturally in the sardines.

Can you calculate this out?  I’m trying to find the safe upper  limit of omega 3.  I use Dr Becker’s book and she doesn’t recommend mega-dosing on omega 3′s.  While a balanced fatty acid profile is important, she writes “Probably the most notable symptom of too many omega 3′s in animal diets pertains to symptoms of unregulated inflammation.” and that “common recommendations…for animals often exceed the NRC’s safe upper limit (SUL).”

http://www.omega3learning.uconn.edu/diet-health/view/veterinarians/articles/assessment-of-the-omega-3-fatty-acid-status-of-the-dog/

The National Research Council made the following requirements/recommendations for omega-3 dietary intakes in its 2006 publication for dogs 1.
The adequate intake (AI) during growth is 0.07% DM (dry matter) for α-linolenic acid (ALA), 0.03% DM for docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and less than 0.03% DM for eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). The recommended allowance (RA) is set for ALA only, which is 0.08% DM.For adult maintenance, the RA for ALA is set at a level of 0.044% DM when LA is provided at the 1.1% DM level. AI is set for DHA and EPA at a combined level of 0.11 g/1000 kcal.During gestation and lactation, the RA for ALA is increased to 0.08% DM. Although no official recommendations are set for DHA and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) at this stage, a modest amount of 0.05 – 0.10% DM is considered adequate. However, the safe upper limit (SUL) is set at 2.8 g/1000 kcal for DHA and EPA combined during gestation and lactation. No minimum requirement of these omega-3 fatty acids is set for any of the developmental stages.

Betsy – If I’m reading your post correctly I think you may be getting mg. of fish oil confused with mg. of omega 3. It’s generally recommended to give dogs around 200-300 mg. omega 3 per 20-30 lbs. – this equates to roughly 1,000 mg. of fish oil (fish oil isn’t pure omega 3).

http://dogaware.com/diet/supplements.html#fishoil

http://efishoilfordogs.com/fish-oil-for-dogs-dosage/

Okay thank you! They may or may not chew them as they’re eating their food. Not sure since they get mixed in and its a race to the finish. I’ll try paying close attention as to if they’re chewing them or swallowing them so it might help to decide if that would be a helpful thing to do. If they do chew them or they get punctured are they still able to obtain the nutrients when/where they need to. I know they are made that way to get absorbed in a certain part of the dig system like the small intenstine or something.  

We’ve always given our dogs fish oil pills in their meals and my husband bought some this wkend that ended up looking different inside the bottle. They were just more clear/glossy before and this time they weren’t. I noticed it said that they were enteric coated and i don’t know if they were before and if that’s why they appeared different this time, but i’ve read different things about whether its safe for dogs. Could you tell me if its safe for them? Thank you to anyone who could help.

Gas is a digestive issue.  There is something in the food that your dog is having trouble digesting.  It can vary from dog to dog.  The thing to do is to provide probiotics and digestive enzymes with every meal for a while.  You may be able to cut back on them after a time.

Pumpkin is good and if it’s plain yogurt, no sugar added, yogurt can be good too.  Do you know why he has breathing problems sometimes?  That can be allergy related, but you usually see other signs of allergies.  NutriSource grain free is good food at a good price.  Fromm and Merrick also have good foods at a good price.  If you go to those sights and use the store locator, you might find them near you.

I have the same issue.  I have finally broken down and started adding a little canned food (which I can switch up flavors, etc.) to his meal.

No, not a horrible person ..  Not at all…

Have you tried digestive enzymes?  They don’t work every time but they work a lot of the time..  You would need to give them to all the dogs with every meal.  They help digest the protein in the foods — which is then not pooped out to entice as a second meal…

Often times you’ll see pineapple (fresh only) or meat tenderizor recommended — they both have enzymes in them that digest protein.  Buying a supplement is much easier though and includes enzymes that help digest the other nutrients in the food not just protein.  A high quality, imo, enzyme is sold at http://www.mercola.com under the “Pet” and then “Products” tabs.

Right now they don’t ship to Canada, so my suggestion would be to go with something like Orijin, As high a protein as you can find, as low in carbs as you can find, and add pre/probiotics and digestive enzymes. Add in high quality canned or raw as toppers.

To start at the end, no, turkey is not the same as chicken and sometimes chicken isn’t the same as chicken.  Now back to the beginning, When I add tummy trouble to ear problems and licking feet, I get unhealthy immune system, starting with the gut.  Definitely go grain free, try to go very high protein, moderate fat, and very low carb.  Then add pre/probiotics to whatever you choose and digestive enzymes too.  Those help heal whats going on in the gut.  If you want a really good source of info, go to brotherscomplete.com and read their Brothers Document and FAQs to learn more about “leaky gut”  If you believe this might be what’s going on in your dog, seriously consider using Brothers Complete Allergy Formula for a trial period of about three months.  If you see a lot of improvement, then stay on it for about nine or so months and see where that gets you.  My dog with the same symptoms has been on Allergy and raw for two months now and is SSSOOO much better.

Please, I need some help in picking a dog food for a 4th old golden retriever. He has has the a lot of tummy issues and goes to the washroom almost every 2 hours. Have had him checked at the vet twice…..no problems. They put him on Hills and medication. He originally was on Nutra then we put him on Acana LB puppy. I would like to stay away from chicken. And maybe go grain free as his eyes are running and he’s starting to show signs of ear problems and licking his feet. I had a retriever with allergies and want to start off on the write course with this little guy. He also inhales his food so size of kibble is important, would like a log kibble. Just picked up Now puppy (kibbles are small)last night. Not really wanting to as it’s turkey and to me that’s the same as chicken….is it? Help

i have a 2 yr old bichon frise who is slightly overweight since being spayed ,what should i feed heed her also she gets allergies that the vet are unsure of but are mild .

Look for the article on hip dysplasia.  I believe it was Hound Dog Mom that researched the foods that have appropriate calcium levels for large breed dogs.  You’ll have to scroll down to find it, unless HDM gets on here and provides the link for you.

Try green tripe. Most dogs won’t turn their nose up to that. Tripett probably makes the best canned product. Solid Gold, Merrick and Canine Caviar have some canned green tripe as well. Or if you can find it raw tripe is probably the healthiest – I get mine from mypetcarnivore.com or hare-today.com.

I am also researching issues for soft stool, (my dog has lots of mucas in it), check out canine IBS, very helpful.

Great picture InkedMarie!

to Aimee and John: thanks!  I figured if someone picks up the issue, they could say, “hey, I know her online” LOL

 Congrats on the major win!!

Hey It me that guy from the other thread, lol, is there any way you could post a picture? I used to get that mag. My sister sent it to us, the one one that bred Flat Coats. But we dont get it anymore. love to see those pics.

Careddick –

Try adding a quality digestive supplement with probiotics and enzymes and a spoonful of plain canned pumpkin. You can try switching foods if you want – any of the 4 or 5 star foods would be a good choice.

My Spaniel/Dachund Mix, Bella has been eating Natures Variety Chicken with Raw Boost pieces for a few months. Now she is starting to have Diarrhea due to the food. What is the next best dog food I should provide for her?

(Before the Natures Variety she was on Blue Buffalo, however she stopped eating it.)

If you could email me any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it!!

Katiesterling123@yahoo.com

@yah:disqus Thank you very much!

Katie and Bella

He’s a cancer survivor (tumor removed at age 4). 

About 80lbs.  He gains weight easily ever since the cancer (he was taking prednisone).  I  feed him a lower calorie food for less active dogs.  We walk 1-3 miles/day.

No arthritis or other issues.

I use human joint supplements called Triple Strength Joint Soother with glucosamine, chondroiten and MSM. I get 90 in a bottle and give one ea in the am.

I’m going to have to have a chat with my owner about other senior diets. I would not recommend any of the ones we carry, as they all fit into that “lower protein than the adult formula” file. Although I tell people to stick with ALS foods anyway.

Any suggestions for the joint supplement and probiotic?

I’ve never understood why some brands senior formulas are lower in protein than their adult formulas. Senior dogs don’t digest proteins as well, and thus need higher protein food in order to even things out.

 Hi dmw2, I would go with an “als” All life stages food. Most senior foods have a lot of fillers. If you want grain free, I would suggest looking on this website at the article called “best grain free dog foods”. It has a list of foods. 

ShannMB-

It depends on the dog how much you will end up feeding.

Thanks so much HDM. My budget says Whole Earth, my heart and mind- Earthborn. Also, I looked and for WEF you feed less than Earthborn? I have two dogs in the 50lb. range and a foster right now who is probably a little less. I would have thought you would feed less of the Earthborn? Would you take a look as to if I am reading it right? I really appreciate the help! For the cats too!

Can someone please tell me…Is Earthborn Holistic Primitive way healthier than Whole Earth Foods? I am concerned with the grains in WEF with low protein yet it is priced decent. We literally have nothing around where I live so I am ordering online and food has to be economical because we rescue and literally have a zoo around here. No one has any allergies that we are aware of. Also, I know this is a dog food site but I am looking to switch our cats’ food too if anybody has any reccomendations on that also. Thanks!!

my vet suggested that foods higher in phosphorous are not good long term for a dog — BUT I cannot see phosphorous content on any food bags??? Any comment?

Thanks for the suggestions & website. : )  Hoping the pumpkin helps.

Try adding a spoonful of plain canned pumpkin and a good quality digestive supplement with enzymes and probiotics.

I’m sorry!  I couldn’t resist sharing this with you all:  
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/22/125-amazing-animal-photobombs_n_1820011.html?ir=Canada+Living#slide=more245781

This really has nothing to do with dog food, but everything to do with dogs (and other animals).  I didn’t think I’d make it through all the pictures as I was in tears and laughing hysterically (while alone in the kitchen withe the dogs).  This was a great way to start my day, so I wanted you all to have a laugh as well.  Enjoy!

Thank you for the very informative reply…origen was suggested by a friend as well…

 Hey monkey, I get my canned sardines at Aldi, they are packed in spring water, and wild caught. 

I think you should read the beginning of this page, where Dr Mike talks about how to choose a dog food. Halo isn’t horrible but it’s not the tops. 

Most containers have dosage recommendations. I give my 70 lb. female 1 1/2 tsp. per day so 1/4 – 1/2 tsp. would probably be enough for a 12 lb. dog.

For omega 3′s Krill oil is a good oil to rotate with fish oil. Krill oil is a Phospholipid while fish oils are either Ethyl Esters or Triglycerides.  Phospholipids are better absorbed than Ethyl Esters or Triglycerides.  Krill oil also contains the antioxidant 
Astaxanthin which helps to protect the oli from going rancid which is a problem with all oils. Astaxanthin is what.gives the pink color to a Salmon’s skin.

The downside to Krill oil is price. That is why I suggest rotating Krill oil with fish oil.Wild caught Sardines packed in water in BPA free cans are my favorite source of omega 3′s.  The omega 3′s are much better protected when in a whole fish than after they are extracted and made into an oil.  The sardine contains one of the richest sources of omega 3′s of any fish. Due to their small size Sardines have a much lower heavy metal content than larger sources of fish oil such as Salmon.

I give my Doberman Merrick Grain Free Duck or Buffalo. You can order it at doggiefood.com or buy it at Petco. She was on Purina Pro Plan (yuck!) when we adopted her, and there has been an improvement with the switch. Merrick’s ingredients all come from the USA. If you want to try pre-made raw, Primal makes a frozen duck mix which is also great.

 I think you may need to re-read the ingredients more carefully.

 Halo is tops…read the ingredients!!!

 Lisa i have a maltese and tried many brands.  I am now giving her HALO grain free and she loves it, actually eats it…you can get almost anyplace, Petco, Petsmart. including the Halo site but I order from Mr. Chewy.

If you go to the human supplement section at a grocery store you can generally find capsules, most pet stores and online sites carry it too in both pump dispensers and capsules. I usually use Alaska Naturals for my dogs.

Can you point me in the direction of a fish oil supplement please?

Hi Lisa –

If they have dry skin or poor coat quality they probably need more Omega 3′s, most dog foods are high in Omega 6′s but lacking in Omega 3′s. Omega 3′s are also very heat/air sensitive so even if the dog food has Omega 3′s added they deplete quickly once the bag is opened or if the food is stored improperly. I’d suggest giving them a fish oil supplement (salmon oil, sardine oil, etc.). Fish oil is available in capsules or pumps – I use the pump dispenser for my dogs. Also add a vitamin e supplement as supplementation with Omega 3′s increases the need for vitamin e – a 400 i.u. capsule a couple times a week should be good for a large dog.

For the seasonal allergies I’d look into a supplement to help with that. Vet’s best makes a good seasonal allergy support supplement with MSM, Bioflavanoids, Nettle Leaf, Quercetin, and Perilla Leaf – all known to help dogs that experience seasonal allergies. I know it’s available from Wag.com.

You may also want to read the review on Pro Plan and consider switching to a higher quality 4 or 5 star food.

When I hear “allergies” I think two things…

1. Go grain free. They are the cause of a lot of allergies, and really are unnecessary to a dog anyway. Not that some grains don’t offer good things, but to a dog it’s not enough to bother with if it could be an issue.

2. Avoid chicken, beef, and lamb. Dogs have been over-exposed to those three meats, thus making them high allergens. I’m not saying they are the issue, but there’s a good chance they could be so you may as well play it safe.

Check out the list of 4-5 star, grain free, dog foods here and see what’s available in your area. Of course, you can always purchase off the web for little to no shipping cost. I’m a fan of Orijen, Acana, Fromm, California Natural, and Nature’s Variety. There are other good foods, though.

Amicus is specifically for small breeds, so that one might work.  Also, Nature’s Variety kibble is tiiiiiiiiny (the smallest I’ve ever seen), so that would be one to consider as well. 

Hi Jennifer-

I am not a big proponent of weight loss foods, so I feed my crew all life stage(from the youngest-now 1 to the oldest of 15yrs) and monitor/control their weight by the portion control.

Since everyone’s budget is different, and every one has a list of acceptable ingredients, I suggest reviewing the 3-5 star lists and choosing from there. Foods I have used in the past year are Acana grain inclusive, and grain free, Instinct-raw,canned, kibble. Fromm canned, Vet extension canned,  Earthborn dry, Nutrisource, etc.

I have also used with great results Propac(has corn) but very reasonably in pricing.

I have a senior Lab mix. He is neutered & a bit overweight. Any suggestions on what to feed him?

 Just wanted to throw in here-The Nature’s variety Instinct chicken is what my food problematic dobie is eating(and now the other two for convenience) All three are of wonderful weight, have no skin or stool issues. They seem to be thriving on it. Probably the high fat content, but they seem to get shinier every day, lol. Considering the girl could not eat most of the grain frees 1-1/2 years ago, I have to say I am impressed with her response.

Are the higher quality dog foods nutritionally complete vs. something like Science Diet? I’m having doubts because apparently its about ‘the right balance of nutrients’ instead of the ingredients. I’m not sure what to believe, and if I go to my veterinarian – she’s just gonna tell me to get Science Diet because they are sponsored by it or something like that.

Thanks Hound Dog Mom and Waterwings. 

Dave’s Hounds: From what I’ve seen Instinct. Their formulas are potato free and between 35% and 42% protein and at least 20% fat. Back to Basics, Horizon Legacy and Brother’s look good as well, they all have protein levels in the mid to high 30′s but are lower in fat than Instinct and thus higher in carbs. I’ve used samples of all but the Back to Basics, I’ve never fed any as a complete diet obviously just for treats, but the formulas I got samples of seemed okay.

Thank you so much for the advice, Cheryl & Pepper. I’ll look into the Amicus brand. I appreciate the link to petflow, as well  

Thanks for the advice, Melissa. I just ordered some 
Wellness Super5Mix Dry Dog Food (small breed, healthy weight) about an hour ago. Unfortunately the ingredients did include barley (8th in the list). Well, we’ll give it a try. If the stains continue on my poodle, I’ll look for something without barley next go-around. I appreciate the advice

TraceyTi
Take a look at Amicus Small Breed formula-just might be the kibble you are looking for-i use the Senior for my mini schnauzer-check out petflow.com they have good prices. Amicus is made by Horizon pet food company in Canada-check out their website-they provide ingredients analysis etc. They also have a Pulsar line of kibble(also available at pet flow.com). Hope this might help. Good luck.
Cheryl & Pepper

 Tracey-

As Jan said, the staining could be caused by anything. For my white dog, I discovered that the stains went away as long as barley(or pearled barley) was not in the top few ingredients.

There is no one perfect food, and what works for one, may not work for another. My crew eats mostly Acana grain free(w/toppers) but I also rotate brands sticking to 4-5 star foods with no barley high up in the list.

Thank you for your response, Jan_Mom2Cavs.  It’s a bit overwhelming to narrow my choices down to just one food. I suppose the “trial and error” approach is the best way to go. I certainly appreciate your feedback. I’ll look into the foods you’ve mentioned above. 

I have three small dogs ( a 5 lb white poodle with terrible brown tear stains) a yorkie who seems to have diarrhea too often and a schnoodle which seems to be all around healthy.)  Our vet recommended Beneful dog food, but after perusing this website, I found that Beneful is just plain crap to feed to dogs. Currently, I’m feeding our dogs Natural Balance Sweet Potato & Chicken Small Bread Dry food. They seem to like the food fine… and the small pieces are easier to eat, but it’s only rated 4-stars and my poodle still has the dark staining around his eyes.  I saw the list for 5-star foods, but without going into each one, I won’t know which brands are available in the small breed size. So my question is….what’s the BEST 5-star dry food (for small breeds) that I can feed my dogs? 

Generally acid reflux is actually caused by too little hydorchloric acid (aka HCL) in the stomach not too much.  Acid reducers treat the symtpoms but often cause more harm then good..

Additionally, stomach acid is REQUIRED in order to digest proteins as the acid must get to a certain level in order to activate the protein digesting enzyme pepsin.  So a dog chronically on acid reducers is likely, especially if old, not going to digest enough of the proteins eaten to maintain health.

This is commonly discussed in alternative medical communities, like Mercola.com.  But mainstream doctors are also suggesting the same.

From the livestrong website

“Dr. Jonathan Wright, medical director of the Tahoma Clinic in Renton, Washington, and author of “Why Stomach Acid Is Good for You,” says a large percentage of acid reflux is caused by what he describes as “digestive failure.” Noting that acid reflux is diagnosed most widely among older people, Wright argues that it is within this age group that the inability to digest properly, largely because of low stomach acid production, is most widespread. An effective remedy for digestive failure, says Wright, is supplementation with HCl. He said that such supplements — with or without pepsin — were widely prescribed and effective in the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century.”

Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/296666-hcl-supplement-for-acid-reflux/#ixzz20d4UUkHgInstead of a HCL supplement, many take apple cider vinegar (with the “mother”) with their meals which is acidic and mimics HCL.  Adding protein digesting enzymes like pepsin helps many too.

My poor old rescue guy is suffering fron horrible acid reflux.  When I first got him a year ago he was on a store brand corn based dry kibble. No acid reflux but deadly gas. I’ve tried a number of different dry, wet and dry plus wet plus addng water foods. He’s been on pepcid as well as a rx from the Vet. I’ve tried a spoonful of yogurt twice a day which helps a little. I feel really bad for him because I can tell the retching hurts his throat.  Any suggestions on a food? I’m thinking dehydrated might be a good way to go. 

Shawna, E coli is well suited to grow at low pH’s ( lots of resources on this) so the proposal that the urine needs to be alkaline before the dog gets an infection and then the bacteria adapts to a low pH is  unlikely at best.  E Coli: Optimum pH [6-7] Minimum 4.4; Maximum 9.0

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_pH_survivability_range_of_E._coli#ixzz1z40NLqMo“Acidification of urine is sometimes recommended for humans with recurrent UTIs. Indeed, most bacteria cannot live in urine with a pH below approximately 5.5; however, dogs are not readily able to acidify their urine to a level below this pH. Consumption of maintenance adult diets and the struvite dissolution or prevention diet by clinically healthy dogs results in production of urine with a pH of approximately 5.8 to 6.4. This pH range is not likely to prevent a bacterial UTI.”http://cp.vetlearn.com/Media/PublicationsArticle/PV_23_05_407.pdf (P.S. Bartges is one of the countries urinary guru’s ..)True that not all vets may culture to prove a uti but when determining frequency rates of sterile vs infection induced stones only those cases from which culture data is available would be included.

Okay, now I AM saying that acidifying the diet can treat UTI — err, actually I’m quoting Kronfeld who says it.  I found this completely by accident looking something else up.

“Dr Kronfeld reports that older dogs and dogs with compromised kidneys can easily process high quality proteins.  He states that high quality proteins in percentages as high as 54% can actually kill bacteria in the kidneys and create an acidic condition that is healthier for these organs. This would be helpful for urinary tract infections and other bacteria in the dogs system. (2)” 

Bovee says the same

“Similarly, Dr Bovee’s research in the mid 1970’s concluded that high protein levels were more advantageous to dogs with deteriorating kidneys. He reported that the kidney function was much better in dogs fed a diet of 54% protein than 27% protein, for up to two years in his studies. (This study is in complete opposition to the recommendations of the NRC (National Research Council) for low protein for dogs with renal disease.) The same studies concluded that high percentages of protein in the dogs’ diet also help to kill bacteria in the urinary tract. (3)”
http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/protein/

Aimee ~~ never said you could acidify yourself out of a UTI.  Did say that acidic urine helps to prevent infections and more importantly said that acidic urine helps prevent crystal formation — no crystal formation no stone.

From what I read e-coli can “adapt” to a lower acidic environment given the right parameters.. 

I’m also saying —- which came first, the chicken or the egg.  Or in this case the e-coli or the alkaline urine?  Vets, as many of us have experienced, don’t always do a urinalysis but “assume” there is an infection (Terri’s vet didn’t do one).  How many of those were actually sterile?

Yes, you would calibrate with distilled water. That’s what I did during my reef keeping days.

And I was always under the impression that high protein lead to more acidic urine – at least high-protein meat-based diets did (not plant protein-based). But I’m not very knowledgeable in this area.

Shawna , The fact that you trust Dr Becker and believe everything she says is a HUGE difference between us. 

Years ago and on this very issue I called her and asked for data to support her statements she said ( paraphrased) I have none, it is just my opinion. YUP she has an opinion just like she has a belly button and what bugs me about her is that she proclaims her OPINIONS as if they are fact!

Sooo I take everything she says with a huge grain of salt especially when she makes a statement such as this which is SO easily disproven.

 ”Urine is sterile when kept at the appropriate 6 to 6.5 Ph”"

For laughs and giggles I pulled my dogs records when she had UTI … Hmmm heavy growth of E coli and a urine pH of 6.5.

As I said E coli is an acid lover. It grows in pH far lower than 6  Heck I found one report that grew E coli at a pH of 2.4!  So as I said you CAN NOT acidify your way out of a UTI  : )

Take this statement “Urinary crystals or stones. When a urine Ph becomes alkaline, minerals can settle out of the urine and form crystals”

Urine crystals form at a variety of pH values some are more common in acid and other in alkaline urine.   Heck you don’t even need a basic urine to get struvite SHESH!!!

I’ll got off my soapbox now..  

Sometimes whats in the food prevents magnesium from being absorbed.

” In conclusion, the fractional absorption of zinc, copper and magnesium from the fibre-rich diet was not sufficient to cover intestinal and urinary losses of these elements, resulting in negative balances.”  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8829129?dopt=Abstract

Phytates (in foods like grains) are known to impede magnesium absorption (as well as zinc and other minerals) too.  http://www.ajcn.org/content/79/3/418.full

I talk about Peachy on this Do More For Dogs forum back in June of 2010 

“The holistic vet recommended increasing a few vitamin supplements we were already giving and add a magnesium and one other (can’t remember). Peachy hasn’t had a seizure since on the vitamins. Also has been exempted from all future shots including rabies.” http://youandyourdogs.blogspot.com/2010/06/treating-seizures-was-re-domorefordogs_828.html

I would note that the extra vitamins were stopped but Peachy had to stay on the magnesium longer.  Peachy was on a commercial complete and balanced diet and kibble (daughter couldn’t afford exclusively raw).

On July 8th 2011 I also mention Peachy on the Mercola forum

“Jul 8, 2011After about 2 months of seizures Peachy had a seizure and quit breathing. … She also started Peachy on magnesium and one other vitamin …”  https://www.google.com/#hl=en&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=Peachy+seizures+magnesium&oq=Peachy+seizures+magnesium&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_l=hp.3…7542.13721.0.13906.25.25.0.0.0.0.206.2393.18j6j1.25.0…0.0.ct3mrCE4Jk8&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=97a3c216a044e6d4&biw=1024&bih=447

EXCELLENT advice Sandy!!!

My old female takes Vit C a couple times a week to help acidify her urine and a couple times a week I will give her d-mannose as well for urinary tract health.  She also eats a grain free, mod-high protein diet (kibble and raw).

OOPS just missed your point… yes it is just the Specific Gravity SG that that needs to be measured on the refractometer. With stone formation the solution to pollution is dilution! 

I can’t say I’d ever heard of that happening but sure… especially if you have GI disease… Tell me about your experience .. I’m all ears!!!

I’d think it very unlikely occurance especially at the levels in this diet. 

The problem with aquarium refractometers is that they generally measure only SG and salinity (Unless I’m just missing something and that’s all you want to measure, LOL!)  If you want REALLY specific measurements for pH and calcium or something, you should get a Reef Master Test Kit, maybe made by API. (here’s a link to the kit: 
http://www.apifishcare.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=138   You can get additional tests for hardness or whatever listed on the side bar menu.)

Since urine is salty (I guess? I don’t know a whole lot about dog p*ss.) You’ll want the saltwater kit cause it’s calibrated for high range pH. Is dog urine supposed to be acidic or alkaline??)

HI Aimee, Do you know where I could get a refractometer? That sounds like a good idea so I can monitor her closely. Thanks, Terri

Crystals can be present (and often are) without disease.. 

I have been discussing struvite crystals/stones exclusively. 

I know you disagree with Dr. Becker’s theory on struvite crystals/stones, but I have recommended or suggested such to many over the last two years with GREAT results..  Several of them did not have infections, just crystals (no stones).

One of the benefits of probiotics is that when they feed they create butyric acid and lactic acid.  These acids acidify the colon killing off bacteria that can not live in an acidic environment (as well as cancer prevention and other benefits).  Knowing this, it is not hard for me to imagine that diet can affect the ph of the urinary tract and that e-coli can then flourish in the more alkaline environment.  I found evidence that e-coli is a common constituent of the last section of the human urinary tract.  I imagine the same is true for cats and dogs. 

Additionally, they KNOW that cats can form struvites due to a diet too low in meat creating an alkaline urine.  Yet the prescription diet for cats is not much better then it is for dogs???  The Urinary SO for felines only has 33% protein??  And much of that 33% comes from “corn gluten meal” and WORSE “soy protein isolate” — SHAME

Yes definitely the levels of urolith components are controlled in diets designed for stone dissolution/prevention.  That is the point of the diet.

My concern is when you reported the magnesium was  removed from the diet and then followed that with deficiency causes seizures it leaves the reader with the impression that they diet may cause seizures due to lack of magnesium. : )

 So… I was just pointing out that there is plenty of magnesium in the diet. Similarily there is plenty of Ca in the diet at 1.27 grams /1000 kcals when NRC minimum is .5 grams/1000 kcals.

Hmmm, “removing” the magnesium is not exactly correct……  HOWEVER, when Terri listed what she was feeding I looked it up and guess what

“Lowered magnesium, calcium, and oxalate to help prevent formation of uroliths in your pet”

I can’t find the original source of the info but here is another (the above quote came from yet another)  http://doghealthdoc.com/body-organs/bladder-stones-treatment-prevention/

And one more for good measure
“Struvite stones dissolve in an acid urine, requiring a diet low in magnesium and protein-accomplished by feeding Hill’s Prescription Diet s/d, or Royal Canin Urinary SO 13″  http://www.medicinenet.com/pets/dog-health/bladder_and_urethral_stones_in_dogs.htm

Those aren’t my words.  However, “removed” (inplying there is none in the food) was not really appropriate I agree.

Very good information. Why is it that veterinarians do not know that? It bothers me that they prescribe a RX  diet but do not know why they are rx’ing it except that it is “recommended”. Good grief! 
I am so glad I found this site. I am not going to give up until I know that I am doing my best to prevent this from happening again. You may be the life line for my little best friend. Thank you!!

Shawna, that is a great video – thank you.  I wonder what medication they put into the RX diet that prevents stones.  I am definately going to try to learn more about the raw food diet & try that. I like the idea of buying meat and adding premixes. 

Terri_2012,

If you’re using good quality food don’t be so concerned about contaminating the food. I feed my dogs a raw diet with no issues, they’re digestive systems are very resilient. Also keep in mind there are certain antibacterials that can be added to raw food. According to the book Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats non-dairy probiotics such as acidophilus/bifidus can be 97% effective in combating E. Coli bacteria. Alfalfa has proven effective against combating gram negative bacteria such as salmonella. Chamomile, garlic kelp, ginger, parsley, and apple cider vinegar are also antibacterial. You should definitely at least look into raw, I know it took me awhile to get the confidence to try it and now I would never feed my dogs any other way.

First of all, you’re vet is… mostly wrong. While rice is a fine ingredient, it most definitely should not be listed 2nd in the ingredient listing. I’d prefer leaving corn out of a food too, let alone it being 4th in the list of ingredients.

Check this website for how certain foods may effect the dog and stones - http://www.upmc.com/patients-visitors/education/nutrition/Pages/low-oxalate-diet.aspx

Going off that list you should be able to find quite a few good options. I’ll help narrow some down if you’d like.

Terri_2012,

Wysong has a prescription formula called “Wysong RX Urinary”.

Ingredients: Chicken, Chicken Hearts, Chicken Livers,
Ground Chicken Bone, Grass Powders, Apple, Blueberry, Cranberry, Plums,
Flax Seed, Fish Oil, Lecithin, Seaweed, Grape Skin and Seed Extract
(source of resveratrol), Mixed Vitamin E Tocopherols, Citric Acid
(antioxidant), Oregano, Rosemary, and Sage Extracts (herbal antioxidants
and preservatives), Inulin (source of prebiotics), Probiotics (Dried
Bacillus subtilis Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium
Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus plantarum Fermentation
Product, Dried Lactococcus lactis Fermentation Product, Dried
Lactobacillus casei Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus
acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus lactis
Fermentation Product), Dried Yeast Culture (source of vitamins, enzymes,
prebiotics), Dried Aspergillus oryzae Fermentation Product (source of
enzymes), Dried Aspergillus niger Fermentation Product (source of
enzymes), Choline Chloride, Ascorbic Acid, Zinc Proteinate, Iron
Proteinate, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Manganese
Proteinate, Calcium Pantothenate, Thiamine Mononitrate, Copper
Proteinate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Vitamin A
Acetate, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement.

Nutraceutical/Homeopathic Adjunct Ingredients: Uva Ursi, Dried Kidney, Bilberry Powder, Dandelion Root, Chlorella, Lecithin, DL-Methionine.

I just noticed Wysong had prescription formulas a few weeks ago when I was on their site. It states that it doesn’t have to be fed as a sole diet and can be used as a topper with high quality foods or in rotation with high quality foods (i.e. Wysong in a.m. and regular food in p.m.). This is a dehydrated food that you add water to, so it would be canned food consistency when rehydrated and I know wet foods are recommended for dogs prone to bladder stones. Also I’ve heard apple cider vinegar can help prevent them by leveling the pH (I give my dogs a tbs. of Bragg organic Apple Cider Vinegar with mother every day).

Also, you said you always kept your dogs up to date on vaccines – you may want to read “Shock to the System” by Catherine O’Driscoll. Yearly vaccines aren’t as healthy as some vets make them out to be.

I’m sure some others will come along with more advice as there are many knowledgeable people on this site. But while I’ve never had any direct experience with this food, I have used other Wysong products and liked them and if it’s effective the ingredients in this food look  wonderful. Another option would be to seek out a holistic veterinarian that would be more supportive of your decision to look for a healthier food.

Dulcie C,

Large breed dogs need special food until they are 18 months and giant breed dogs need special food until they are 24 months – when large/giant breed puppies are growing they need lower levels of calcium to prevent the development of orthopedic disorders. When they are full grown it is not necessary to feed a special food. Generally the only difference between large breed specific foods and adult foods is that the large breed foods are sometimes a little lower in fat and usually will advertise the addition of glucosamine and chondroitin for joint health. The thing is the lower fat is generally to try and control weight but if you look at calorie difference between formulas it is usually negligible, and it’s calories that control weight not fat persay. As far as the glucosamine and chondroitin – it’s just a marketing tactic. If you look at the amounts present it’s usually only something like 400 mg/kg or something and to put that in perspective, a dog the size of your would need between 1,200 mg. and 1,500 mg. glucosamine to have any effect, a kilogram is a lot of food, she probably only eats a pound at most which would be slightly less than 200 mg. glucosamine – negligible. So when deciding whether or not to feed a large breed food I would advise comparing the protein content of the large breed formula and the regular formula (sometimes the reduced fat also results in reduced protein which is bad), go with whichever has more protein.

 Hello Adam, hats off to you and your wife   Amish typically feed their dogs a variety of table scraps, raw meat and bread.  They do not buy food.  Having raised German Shepherds myself for many years, the best diet is grain free, or raw if you can handle it.  Raw is not for everyone therefore I never push raw feeding.  Select a good grain free diet.  If you can not find it readily available select a good quality meat based feed with rice…a chicken rice or lamb rice feed will suffice.  Look for a feed that has a defined meat source as first ingredient.  I used to feed Taste of the Wild but switched to Infinia Turkey Sweet potato.  I have to special order it however because I too live in a very small Amish community so my selection of feed is not the best.  Fortunately a local elevator is a purina mills dealer and special orders my feed.  It gets rather troublesome to not have it on hand when needed because I often take in fosters and rescues.  Steer clear of any feed that has corn or wheat gluten in it…German Shepherds can be infamous of skin allergies and ear infections.  But as with any animal they evolve to accept a particular diet and if your dog came from generations of Amish dogs, I bet she will easily transition to any feed you choose.  They are pretty much fed garbage (so to speak)  meaning scraps of many types.    Good Luck  

I have a 9 year old beagle and just adopted a 13 year old Lhasa Apso. She’s been fed Iams and I would like to switch her to something else.  Any suggestions for a moderately priced senior dog food? I’m currently paying out of pocket to feed and kennel a stray pitbull my daughter brought home as well, so the budget is tight until we find the right home for the pittie.

Hi Adam, I would suggest grain free dog food. My dog did well on
Before grain (Merrick)  and Back to Basics. But any grain free dry,
topped with a grain free canned, will give your dog a great meal. :O) http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/…

i would be very grateful if you could advise me on where to look for good dog food for the UK England
thankyou <3

cody – You need to exercise with the dog start out with a walk around the block twice a day for a few weeks then increase the distance and intensity.  Perhaps a walk in the field?  Maybe a little playing in the water?  Perhaps a tennis ball?  If he is overweight, you need to put him on a diet.  You need to measure his food.  I highly doubt there is any beneful that has enough of any supplement to make a difference.   There are supplements that can help with joint problems.  Its not that hard to get a dog to eat.  You can add a tablespoon of water and microwave for 15 seconds to bring out the smells and flavors,  Drizzle a little chicken or beef broth on the food.   Finely chop some turkey or egg into the food and mix it real well.    Usually exercise stimulates the appetite and also regulates bowel functions. 

Chair639 ~~ sorry if I came off as snippy in my previous post.  Kidney disease is a topic I am very familiar with…  My dog (pictured in my avatar) was born with kidney disease.  She had symptoms before even being weaned.  She was officially dianosed at one year of age.  She will be 6 years old the end of June 2012 and is in supreme health despite her damaged kidneys.  She has been on a HIGH protein, commercial and home made raw diet since she was weaned.

Protein does not cause kidney disease and if you know what you are doing you can feed a higher protein diet until the later stages of the disease.

Audrey’s symptoms at 6 weeks old were excessive drinking (polydipsia) and excessive urination (polyuria).  Five and a half years later and her symptoms are still only polydipsia and polyuria. 

Please don’t fall for the low protein hype vets and others spew out about kidney disease.  This data has been disproven for well over 10 years now.

 Does with kidney disease should NOT eat a high protein diet!

I forgot to mention that they are toy poodles.

You can supplement with raw meats/organs, liver, gizzards, heart, etc…eggs, sardines, other fish, wild caught, packed in water, no salt added, raw meaty bones like rib bones, turkey necks, chicken wings,thighs,frames, full fat yogurt (no sugar), pureed nonstarchy veggies or lightly cooked,  and also tripe.  Haven’t used tripe yet as it’s hard to find.  I’ve found some dehydrated raw green tripe online.

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/the-stink-on-tripe/

http://www.freshisbestinc.com/

http://www.k9natural.com/all-products

Geraldine,
 
My small dogs are doing great on Brothers and Great Life Grain Free. They have also eaten Instinct, Amicus and Nutrisca, Blue Buffalo Wilderness and Core Ocean.  They didn’t all love Orijen so they don’t get that anymore.  They also get raw food.  For treats I stick with dried meat or piece of fruit (keeping sugar to a minimum) or dried sweet potato.  There are several brands that offer grain free biscuits as well.  Stella & Chewys has Carnivore Kisses which are really small bite sized dired meat treats. Or you can also get small freeze dried foods and use that as a treat.

Lol. welcome to the world of pups! What your pup is doing sounds normal.

We just got a 3 1/2 month old yorkie for our family.  The breeder we got him from was feed him Purina One Beyond Adult Dog Food and we did not think we should be feeding him adult food.  We went to a local pet store and they recommend Blue Buffalo Life Protection (Puppy).  After feeding him a 75/25 mix, he became very hyper and almost lost his mind.  We are afraid to feed him any more puppy food.  What would you suggest we do?