The Problem with Dog Food Reviews

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Dog food reviews have at least two critical shortcomings. They can never reveal the true quality of the raw materials that were used to make the products they attempt to judge.

And they cannot evaluate the safety with which these ingredients were handled by a company when manufacturing, shipping and storing the finished goods.

So, rating the ultimate “as fed” condition of a specific pet food or predicting product recall events is impossible.

Why It’s Difficult to Control the Quality
of Dog Food Ingredients

Not only do most pet food companies conceal the origin of their ingredients, they also change the sources as well as the quality of those ingredients on a regular basis.

Many raw materials used to make dog foods are bought and sold in commercial-sized lots on the open market.

Bulk prices vary. And so does quality.

From day to day, it’s not unusual for an ingredient to come from a different farm, a different storage facility or a different state.

Even a different country.

Although better companies procure their ingredients directly from trusted manufacturers, others may buy their raw materials through brokers and middlemen.

And many times through less-reputable third party suppliers.

What’s worse, manufacturers are not legally required to report these changes to consumers.

That’s why the method used to review a product is so important.

The Only Objective Way to Review Dog Food

Although there are many ways to rate a dog food, we’ve settled on using the only reliable information we feel we can consistently trust.

We read and interpret government-regulated pet food labels. Nothing more. And we do this in two simple steps.

  1. We study the ingredients list
  2. We estimate the meat content

As reviewers, we don’t test dog food. We don’t taste it. And we rarely trust marketing hype. Manufacturer’s claims. Or the fancy artwork on the package.

Nor should you.

Yet Those Nagging Questions Persist

Of course, like everyone else, we still yearn to know more

  • Where do the ingredients come from?
  • Are they food grade? Feed grade? Or agricultural rejects?
  • Are they fresh?
  • Will my dog like the taste?
  • Is the kibble the right size for my pet?
  • Have they been tested for chemical or biological contamination?

These are all legitimate questions. Some of them can be answered by simply visiting a company’s website. Or calling their customer service number.

Yet remember, company information can be biased.. and almost always subject to change.

That’s why we’re reluctant to simply re-broadcast a manufacturer’s marketing message. We fear it could be misleading and provide a false sense of security to our readers.

The Overlooked Value
of Real Life Experiences and Results

Reviews can never predict results. However, there’s one valuable source of information that can help. It’s easy to access. Practical. And yet commonly overlooked.

Our readers comments.

So, be sure to check out the Comments section at the end of each review for a more complete picture of each dog food.

Before you buy.

There you’ll find a wealth of helpful information from our readers — dog owners and breeders as well as community-minded veterinary professionals, nutritionists and dog food companies.

  • Tips and suggestions on feeding
  • Candid opinions about specific dog foods
  • Reports of real life experiences and results
  • Comments about a company’s customer service

Best of all, find out whether our readers’ dogs give a “tails up” or a “tails down” to the taste of a particular product.

So, What Do Our Stars Really Mean?

We tend to dislike dog foods made with by-products of any kind (plant or animal). And we downgrade recipes that use controversial chemicals or non-meat protein boosters.

Yet we shamelessly favor dog foods rich in meat.

In general, a five star dog food is one that is high in meat content and free of any by-products, suspicious chemicals or plant-based protein boosters.

So, does that mean a one-star dog food is bad for your dog?

No, probably not. A product with a low star rating isn’t necessarily a bad product. Some dogs can thrive on these recipes.

It’s just that we passionately believe you should know what you’re paying for. And dog foods made with by-products and less meat should be judged for what they really are…

Lower quality dog foods.

The Bottom Line

The reviews published on this website are not intended to suggest that feeding a particular product will result in specific health benefits for your pet. They should only be used as a tool to help you make a more informed decision when buying dog food.

And remember…

Consumers are forever at the mercy of dog food manufacturers. Even with their well-meaning promises and guarantees, each batch of ingredients can be notably different from the previous one.

The variations in quality of the finished foods can be significant.

So, as a policy, we deliberately avoid reporting the source or the condition of the ingredients mentioned in our reviews.

Safety Problems Are a Certainty

Because of these quality variations, dog food recalls are inevitable, even from the very best companies. No written assurance from any manufacturer (or product reviewer) can ever guarantee safety.

Your best defense? Be sure to check back regularly for all the latest comments, reviews and information about dog food recalls.

And please don’t forget to share what you know about a dog food or a company. Because your knowledge and experience can make a difference.

Get Dog Food Recall Alerts by Email

Get dog food recall alerts delivered right to your Inbox the moment we become aware of them. Subscribe to The Dog Food Advisor’s Dog Food Recall Alert email notification list now.

Dog Food Advisor IconThe Dog Food Advisor publishes independent reviews to help pet owners make better choices when shopping for dog food.


  • Christina

    My dog has been acting out lately– she seems VERY hungry! The vet commented that she should lose weight but then they recommend some Purina garbage with lots of fillers.  Now, unless I’m mistaken, meat is better for dogs right? Or are fillers part of losing weight? We upped her exercise routine and are doing all the “good” things.  Maybe it’s time to change her food?  Currently she is on Blue Buffalo Healthy Weight.  I might try her with Orijen or Wellness Core? Would that help with her being so hungry and maybe shed a couple pounds to appease the vet? My dog is NOT fat, and I’m not in denial.  I just want to do what’s best for her :)

  • S & T

    Sometimes one has good genes, same for humans same for pets. For those who do rescue, we dont know where they come from and sometimes they need all the help they need in terms of “better food”

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Lynn — You are writing this comment on a public forum associated with a dog food review website. You need to write to a specific pet food manufacturer for help. Because leaving your personal phone numbers in such a public venue like this is never a good idea, I have removed your phone information from your comment. Sorry I can’t be more help.

  • sandy

    Lynn,

    You need to call the customer service number from the can of food (if it’s listed). This site is not affiliated with any dog food company’s customer service.

  • Lynn Fariello

    I need to speak with a customer service rep about a wet can of porterhouse steak flavor that I bought & my dog got stomach problems after that. He is going to the Vet today. Money I don’t have & I tried home remedies first. He was fine until after this one can of dog food from Mighty Dog. I am at [phone number has been deleted by the editor].

  • Bob K

    betty – Exactly which dog food are you talking about? Usually a larger bag would cost less per pound. Are you talking about Purina One Beyond? Purina One beyond is one of Purinas best dog foods and they charge a premium for it. There are many other dog foods rated on this website that provide better nutrition for less cost. What other dog foods are available where you live? Have you ever shopped for dog food at Menards, Costco, Farm & Fleet, Tractor Supply (TSC), Petco, Petssmart, or perhaps a local pet shop?

    You will have to ask Purina why they charge so much for a 3 star product.

  • betty

    why is the one beyond dog food so high? for a 3 pound bag over 8.00 to much dont you think .

  • sherry banffy

    My dog has just been diagnosed with splenic hemangioma, following a splenectomy that came to light when the tumor ruptured and bled into his abdominal cavity. Although he has had his speen removed, this caner variety is very aggressive and generally ends with death 30 – 200 days after removal of the tumor. I am looking to design a program to enhance my dog’s quality of life, first, and extend the length of his life as much as possible.

    Is there a diet you recommend to dogs battling cancer?

    Thanks so much!

  • Chris Valley

    Hi Mike P – Sorry this took so long. I top the kibble with the canned food.

    I also want to add that I don’t spend a lot of money on these quality dog foods.

  • Michelle

    Sheri, she’s a small dog, so it wouldn’t be that expensive to just go ahead and feed her canned exclusively. Then just buy different flavors….. if she’s going to spit out the dry, I wouldn’t even bother buying it. Canned is much better than dry for her anyway. :)

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Sheri… Imagine eating the same food day after day, year after year. Even a dog (wolf) in the wild eats different prey as it becomes available. For Bailey, we use rotation feeding. For more information, please visit our FAQ page and look for the topic, “Diet Rotation for Dogs”. Hope this helps.

  • Sheri

    Hi! I just found your website and am now feeling like a bad doggie mother for listening to the pet store that sold me a sub-par dry dog food, but I’m glad I read some of your articles. I have a very finicky small dog who has been through many different dog foods in her 3 yrs. Every few weeks she just decides that she doesn’t want her food or her biscuits and in the past, I’ve just continued to buy her new stuff each time. I used to feed her nothing but dry food. Just recently, I started mixing the dry with canned but she just picks out the wet and spits out the dry no matter how good I mix it. After reading your articles, I’m more open to giving her wet food, but do you or your readers have any suggestions for how I can stop her from getting “bored” with a food after a few weeks? She’s tried everything from Nutro to Natural Balance and still can’t seem to settle. Thanks!

  • Patricia

    Is there a Holistic Select dry/wet dog food comparable to the prescription Hills I/D?

  • Shawna

    Morning Richard,

    “especially above 300ºF (as in grilling or pan frying), or that are cooked for a long time tend to form more HCAs.”

    It doesn’t limit the food to 300 degrees but says especially — more HAA’s form at those higher temps. It also states OR cooked for a long time.. I have yet to see any clarification in what defines “long time” however. ;)

    When I was researching this I found this info at cancer.gov..

    “The formation of HCAs and PAHs varies by meat type, cooking method, and “doneness” level (rare, medium, or well done). Whatever the type of meat, however, meats cooked at high temperatures, especially above 300ºF (as in grilling or pan frying), or that are cooked for a long time tend to form more HCAs. For example, well done, grilled, or barbecued chicken and steak all have high concentrations of HCAs. Cooking methods that expose meat to smoke or charring contribute to PAH formation (2).

    HCAs and PAHs become capable of damaging DNA only after they are metabolized by specific enzymes in the body, a process called “bioactivation.” Studies have found that the activity of these enzymes, which can differ among people, may be relevant to cancer risks associated with exposure to these compounds (3–5).” http://www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/factsheet/Risk/cooked-meats

    My understanding it that, this holds true with starches too.. High heat (but maybe not prolonged heat?) of starches creates HCA’s.

  • http://brotherscomplete.com Richard Darlington

    Shawna

    In looking over to link you provided below…
    http://www.dogcancerblog.com/dog-food-is-there-a-cancer-risk/

    …about the formation of heterocyclic amines I find that he refers to two links regarding the specifics. In reading both of them it seems Heterocyclic amines and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are formed at very high temperatures upwards of 300 degrees F as in the quote from the reference below:

    “Heterocyclic amines (HCAs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are chemicals formed when muscle meat, including beef, pork, fish, and poultry, is cooked using high-temperature methods, such as pan frying or grilling directly over an open flame.”

    “Whatever the type of meat, however, meats cooked at high temperatures, especially above 300ºF (as in grilling or pan frying), or that are cooked for a long time tend to form more HCAs. For example, well done, grilled, or barbecued chicken and steak all have high concentrations of HCAs. Cooking methods that expose meat to smoke or charring contribute to PAH formation (2).”

    I’m not sure what other manufacturers do but the temperatures that Brothers complete uses in the extruding process are in the 180 to 190 degree F range and nothing is flame cooked or pan fried. Do you have any information that these compounds are formed at temperatures this low?

  • Kathleen

    Thank you Shameless and Shawna!

    I still need to find what options I have locally or plan on ordering online. I started this quest while visiting a pup wash in my town and purchased their dehydrated NRG Optimum Chicken — (per the associate the tag on the packaging that says ‘Large Breed / Active Canine’ did not mean for large breeds only… it was meant to include all active dogs… hummm after reading some of the posts here, it seems that I should have purchased Vitality (sp?) … but they did not have that line of product)…
    I did start ‘topping’ my dogs current kibble (a very bad kibble that will be stopped tomorrow as she will not touch it after having the NRG – I wanted to change the food slowly but I guess she is telling me she is done! :) )
    I do realize that RAW sounds like the best – but as I currently can’t feed my human family a well-rounded nutritious meal daily,, I’m sure I would fail at some point at providing this for my pets – and as Dr. Becker says that is far worse than providing a well-rounded commercial RAW product …. so my quest shall continue to find one of the 5 stars that is local…

    Thanks again for the responses and great information …

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Shawna – Great info about the Rocket Science of dog food nutrition in relation to enzymes, vitamins and minerals!
    You write “Because vitamins are lost in the heating of canned and kibbled foods, they must be added back in. There is only one (that I am aware of) that doesn’t add synthetic vitamins back in. Synthetic vitamins are not the same as what would be found in raw foods.”
    I, too, know of only one brand that claims to use 100% whole foods for all nutrients (nothing synthetic) in their kibble and canned diets – Nature’s Logic®.

    Here is some information from their website –
    http://www.natureslogic.com/faq/#faq8
    Nature’s Logic’s products derive all nutrients from 100% food and other natural ingredients without the inclusion of chemically synthesized vitamins, minerals, or trace nutrients.

    More information here:
    http://www.natureslogic.com/pdf/vitaminmineral.pdf

  • Shawna

    I agree with Shameless (and am also a raw feeder).

    There are numerous reasons why raw is better then canned and kibble. I’d like to present some that aren’t discussed as much as others (a common one is raw foods have living enzymes).

    All kibbled diets increase the risk of cancer as all highly heated foods contain heterocyclic amines. Dr. Demian Dressler of the dogcancerblog.com discusses this. http://www.dogcancerblog.com/dog-food-is-there-a-cancer-risk/

    All canned foods made for pets (that are the larger size cans) contain BPA. Susan Thixton discusses it here http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/which-pet-foods-have-bpa-free-cans.html

    Because vitamins are lost in the heating of canned and kibbled foods, they must be added back in. There is only one (that I am aware of) that doesn’t add synthetic vitamins back in. Synthetic vitamins are not the same as what would be found in raw foods. Example — there are 8 “known” sub-types of vitamin e (alpha, beta, detla and gamma tocopherol and alpha, beta, detla and gamma tocotrienol). All are needed by the body for different functions but they only add d or dl-alpha back in to the diet (and use “mixed tocopherols” (but no tocotrienols) in the fat of the food). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is identical to natural vitamin C however vitamin c is not the whole vitamin in natural food. It works synergistically with other nutrients like vitamin F (F if memory serves).

    Raw foods (if properly digested) are utilized by the cells of the body better then cooked foods.

    There are additional reasons..

    Freeze dried, imo, is just as convenient as dehydrated but is more nutritious. “Flash” freezing is done very quickly which allows for more nutrient retention (supposedly).

    I haven’t looked at every dehydrated food – here’s the two I have — the meats in Honest Kitchen foods are dehydrated but the temperature used actually cooks the meat. The veggies are not subjected to the same heat. Sojo’s, imo, is WAY too high in vegetable carbohydrates to be truly species appropriate.

    Good luck and keep researching!!! :)

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Kathleen – I am an advocate of REAL FOOD, species-appropriate nutrition, so I believe a balanced raw homemade diet is best. Veterinarian Karen Becker has a great video where she rates the Best to Worst Types of Dog Food. According to Dr. Becker,
    1st BEST is a balanced raw homemade diet (unadulterated, unprocessed)
    2nd BEST is a commercial balanced raw diet
    3rd BEST is a balanced cooked homemade diet
    Further down her list are canned foods and dry foods.

    Watch this video to help you make “the best choice” for your dog:
    http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/choosing-dog-food/karen-becker-best-worst-dog-food/

  • Kathleen

    What a great site!!! Great information and discussions …

    I am new to the thoughts of healthier food for your pets… We always feed our dogs (and cats) Purina and left it there. Well, now I’m an adult and my 1st pet as an adult died at 11 years and I’m wondering if I could have made better choices and prolonged his life (he was a Yellow Lab). I currently have a smaller dog (cocker spaniel and poodle mix) and I started researching and my there are a lot of opinions out there…

    I like this site because it seems to focus on the data and gives recommendations based on the data … So my question — I have always heard that ‘raw’ food was the best — Based on your reviews dry, canned, and raw/dehydrated all have pros and cons based on product. If I’m open to any type – which is the best ..??.. dry, canned, or raw/dehydrated?? Is one type better than the other or should they all be incorporated into a dogs diet (as long as the main ingredients are meat and the food is grain-free)?

    Before finding this website, I invested in some dehydrated food (I have a hard time feeding my little ‘fido’ raw food — I like to pretend she is too delicate to be a carnivore — even though I know she is :) ) .. Was this the best choice for her, I know you can not answer that, but I want to continue to find the best food for her and since the dehydrated food takes 30 minutes to hydrate, I’m wondering if I can choose a can and dry food that has the needed nutrients (by choosing one of your 5-star choices) and call it good (once she agrees of course — and we think our human children are picky — our 4 legged ones can be even more picky) ….

    And last, is there a site like this for cat food? If I’m making a change for the better, I should do it for both of my 4 legged friends,
    Thanks a bunch for any insight you can shed,
    Kathleen

  • Tim

    Thanks Michelle, that is helpful.
    I hope I didn’t come off as overly critical, this sight is full of useful information and helpful people and I am thankful to have been turned on to it.

  • Michelle
  • Tim

    I’m still looking for the bottom line. That is, a comparison of the cost per serving or some other analysis of the economics of these various dog foods. I appreciate that quality is of paramount importance in selecting my best friends feed, but I’m too much a tight wad to ignore the money completely.
    Also of interest would be comparing daily feeding quantity, to estimate size of pile considerations.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Michelle… Thanks to your suggestion, I’ve added Norman’s Naturals to my To Do list. However, due to our current backlog of products for review, it could be a while longer before I get to it. Thanks again for your suggestion.

  • Michelle

    Hi Mike. Here’s a dog food that you haven’t reviewed yet. It contains limestone, never heard of that before. http://www.normansnaturals.com/page2/page15/page15.html

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Rachele… Once the water is removed (as it is here in our dry matter basis figures) the amount of calories is determined by the energy contributed by three (and only three) nutrients. Protein, fat and carbohydrates. In general, the amount of refined carbohydrates (including simple and complex sugars) in kibble is nearly always higher than it is in a comparable wet food.

    Since each product has its own “signature” number of calories per serving, it is important to always adjust the serving size up or down to maintain the same caloric content with each meal.

    Although some would disagree, most of our regular contributors and participants (including this writer) recommend changing foods regularly (for most, but not all pets). For more information about this topic, please visit our FAQ page and look for “Diet Rotation for Dogs”.

    You may also wish to visit our library for an answer to your question about teeth. Look for the article, “Dry Dog Food and the Myth of Cleaner Teeth”. Hope this helps.

  • Rachele D.

    Hi again, I have 2 questions, 1) I was told that dry food has more sugar and calories than wet, is this true? 2) Also, I was also told to change the food that they eat every few months because they get tired of eating the same food is that true? Finally, I was told that its a myth that the dry food keeps their teeth cleaner from tarter? Thanks, Rachele

  • Dee Dee

    I wanted to respond to the pet owners whose dogs have yeast problems. My dog had problems with yeasty ears and he hates anything put in his ears for treatment. I tried a product called Nzymes and after following the protocol, my dog has been yeast free for some time now. If he starts scratching or shaking his head I immediately start the program again. It’s natural and most of all, easy. I don’t own stock in the company, I’m just a nurse wanting to help others. Good luck.

  • Jackie

    Some people donate can and dry food to their local animal shelter. I saw a neat idea at an information site where you use coupons to purchase pet food, then donate it. You save money and it increases your buying power. http://www.educationdx.com/dog-cat-food-coupons-samples.html

  • Pingback: Blue Buffalo Basics (Canned) | All Doggish Things

  • Anon

    To A Fort, I think you should take in consideration that PETA maintains the site, and PETA is known for being cruel to animals too, isn’t that ironic?

    http://www.petakillsanimals.com/downloads/PetaKillsAnimals.pdf

  • kim

    I have a 14 yr old beagle that sneezes alot lately, chews at her paws, lays on her back and rocks back and forth and has eye drainage. HELP!

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Dana – I’ll preface my comment by first stating Nutrition Isn’t Rocket Science. I believe in Real Food for Real Dogs! I believe that real raw food, primarily meat protein, is best for all aspects of overall excellent dog health, inside and out. My dog gets raw whole eggs and fresh fish usually once a week as part of his mostly raw diet. My dog’s coat is sleek, shiny and supple.

    I have Dr. Becker’s REAL FOOD FOR HEALTHY DOGS & CATS book, in which she advocates feeding dogs “an egg meal a week”. She recommends “to buy eggs locally” because “the eggs from local chickens have better nutrient content than factory farmed eggs.”

    Vet Becker also has this explanation in her book “Eggs may be fed lightly cooked or raw. If you are concerned that raw egg whites may interfere with biotin absorption, cook the eggs slightly so that whites are cooked. We don’t think it’s necessary.”

    Above “quotes” are from Vet Karen Becker’s book. My dog always gets RAW eggs!

    Here is a link to an explanation about ‘biotin deficiency’ by another vet – Dr. Jennifer L. Fry:
    http://en.allexperts.com/q/Ask-Veterinarian-700/raw-eggs-dogs.htm

    So you get to decide!

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Dana… I’ve always heard that, too. Probably because of the presence of omega fatty acids found in whole eggs. For this same reason, you may wish to also consider adding a reasonable dose of quality fish oil to help improve your dog’s coat, too. Hope this helps.

  • Dana

    I was told it is good for my dogs coat to give him one raw egg per day. Is that true?

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Nearly nobody! I trust my local farmer.

    I understand your method for reviews, and I realize that the pet food label is the only constant that you have available for comparison. I’m just glad that you didn’t write “we limit our ratings to information that IS regulated by the US government” – - since who has proven that anything IS actually lawfully regulated! That was my point.

    K9 Natural founder Geoff Bowers is bold enough to admit on his website that he “lost faith in humans”. I can relate to his sentiments, which is why my food choice decisions are made with the level of scrutiny that most people only engage in when purchasing a computer, television, cellphone or even shoes!

    A new slogan from the USDA is KNOW YOUR FARMER, KNOW YOUR FOOD. Hmmmm……

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Shameless… You said you were glad that I used the word “can”. Just curious. If we can’t trust the government-regulated label information, who can we trust? The manufacturers?

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Glad Mike, that you used the word *can*: “information that can be regulated by the US government”.
    The latest stats indicate a high % of citizens do not trust US government, especially the FDA and USDA.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi A. Fort… No, unfortunately they don’t. It makes me sick to think that some manufacturers still do this. But as I explain in this article, we limit our ratings to information we can prove. And information that can be regulated by the US government. Thanks for listing this link.

  • A.Fort

    Do reviews on this site take into consideration animal cruelty charges in testing it’s products? Such as…http://www.iamscruelty.com/