What % protein is recommended for pups? Mine is 7 m.o., and is about 31 pounds. I have seen everything from 26-42% mentioned as appropriate. I know too much isn’t really a problem, but what are the benefits of higher vs lower levels?
Higher protein can help develop lean muscle tone when exercised properly. High protein foods also tends to be higher in fat so it’s important if you’re going with a higher protein foods that the pup is exercised daily. Also watch out for things like pea proteins, it’s in a lot of new high protein foods. You want a food that has meat as the protein. So a food that has the first three ingredients as meat then maybe peas as the carb but pea protein specifically should be much further down if it’s in the ingredients. I really like merrick grain free. Their foods are meat based and top out at 38% protein. I also really like natures variety Instinct raw boost and ultimate protein, those foods are also meat based and are around 35-42% protein. Both brands are excellent quality. Some dogs have protein sensitivities so watch out for that as well when you start feeding a high protein food. As far as merrick goes their lamb formula is wonderful. It’s only about 32% protein and lamb is easy to digest so it’s a good alternative to say 38% protein that might be a bit too rich for a dog. Just make sure you pick a puppy food for the next few months. Both companies I mentioned have a puppy formula that’s high in protein.
Thanks Haley. I’m looking at the victor foods-the hi-pro which is 30/20 protein to fat, 83% of the protein is from meat; and the grain free active dog and puppy which is 33/16 protein to fat, and 75% is from meat. The victor foods have a much better price point than the merrick. Muenster foods are looking like a possibility, as well.
I get confused by what is actually considered “high” or “low” in terms of fat, protein, carbs and fiber. I see the terms thrown around a lot but no real idea what they are.
No problem, I like victor too. Thats a good food for the price for sure. High protein in my opinion would be anything above 32% and low would be anything below 30%. High fat would be around 20% and up and low would be 10% and below. That percent is often seen in weight loss foods. High fiber is typically found in weight loss foods as well as “indoor” foods which is usually used in cat food to help with fur balls and keeping lazy house cats in shape. Fiber just makes dogs poop more usually that’s why it’s good in weight loss foods so that dogs can poop more and loose weight easier. High fiber is gonna be like 8% and up lower will be around 2-4%. And carbs are typically higher in cheaper foods with lots of grains or lots of peas or potatoes as fillers. Carb can be a good source of energy but tend to cause weight gain more easily if not exercised properly. But good luck with victor it’s a good food too. 🙂
Thanks again, those numbers help. This is the first time I’ve seen numbers actually assigned for those labels. I’ve used samples of the two victor products, as well as a couple of muenster samples, and he liked them and they caused him no issues. it looks like he is one who will eat danged near anything! I was originally leaning to the hi-pro, but think the active dog and puppy is the way to go.
Unlike fats and carbohydates, proteins do not store in the body, so when fed in excess will be excreted from the body as waste. This is why it was originally thought high protein diets cause kidney damage.
According to my current edition textbook (I’m studying to become an RVT), dry pet food for dogs should not contain more than 40% protein on a dry matter basis. Anything more than that is not being used by the body. I personally have found my dogs do well on foods around 26% protein and 16% fat or under. You can find puppy foods with those %’s usually or at least close to it.
I have however read literature written by a nutritionist that states that puppies need between 22-25% protein.
As for fiber, I find anything over 5% MAX fiber to be too high. You will usually find 5% or more fiber in weight control diets.
Hope this helps!
Thanks love. I put him on Fromms lbp when I got him, thinking he was going to be 50+. Turns out he is going to top out about 40, maybe. With the fromms, his stool was soft, especially in the evenings. Since moving to the victor, his stools are firmer and there is less volume. His evening stool is still softer than the morning, but still firm enough to pick up without residue.
Great! Glad you found a food that agrees with him. I also agree that a large breed puppy food should not be needed in his case.
I do like Fromm as well, however I did feel that when I had my dog on the large breed adult gold his stool was larger and not as well formed. For my pack ProPlan has produced the best stools to date.
I think he would eat a bowl of rocks if I put them in his bowl! I haven’t tried proplan just because it seems quite expensive.
We use the Sport 26/16 in the 37.5 lb bag. 49.99$ I wouldn’t consider that expensive personally. I have two big dogs so big bags are helpful.
Yeah, I’m not sure buying the 30-40 pound bags is good for me, since I only have the one dog, and he isn’t that big. I have an airtight container, but I would worry about freshness. He would eat like one if I let him.
On a different topic, is their a way to figure the caloric needs for a puppy? The side has a calorie calculator adult dogs, but I can’t find one for pups.
Whatever food you feed I would just use the suggested feeding chart while he’s a puppy. Start at the lowest for his weight and adjust as you feel is needed. If you give lots of treats. That means a little less food at breakfast and dinner time. If you mix 6 oz of wet food in then that’s usually a half cup of food maybe a 1/4 depending. But most dry food bags will have an indicator of what to do when adding wet food in and the wet food cans also sometimes have a guide on mixing with dry.
Weigh weekly, stand on the scale and note your weight, step off the scale, then pick up the pup and step on the scale again and weigh.
Deduct the former weight from the latter to determine your dog’s weight.
Adjust food intake accordingly. I agree with above, start with the lowest suggested amount on the bag..
Along with what everyone else said, make sure you familiarize yourself with the Body Condition System so you can also visually assess his weight and make sure he’s not gaining too much.
How long can I expect a 30 lb bag to stay good? I do have an airtight container I keep his food in.
Divide it up in several 2 week supply air tight freezer bags, store half in the fridg and half in the freezer. A 27 pound bag lasts me a little over 2 months.
Problem solved. Unless you want to pay more to buy smaller bags to guarantee freshness.
PS: If you are buying dog food that is loaded with fish oils, check with the dog food company as to if freezing is okay. I have not had any issues. They will probably tell you freezing is not necessary, that the fridg is good enough.
Some oils change when they are frozen, but like I said, I use Zignature and have had no problems.
Room temperature in an airtight container, 2 weeks. That’s why I use the fridg and freezer.
My guestimate, 1 month in the fridg, at least 2 months, if not longer in the freezer.
Just transfer the 2 week freezer supply to the fridg the night before serving.
Seems to be working for my pack…..
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.