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Reply To: Transitioning to raw
Hi weimlove –
Don’t feel bad bad for the question overload…I love questions! đ
If you’re using a pre-mix don’t use meat/organ/bone mixtures. Most pre-mixes only require boneless meat, a few (such as urban wolf) do require organ meat but most don’t require organs either. The reason you don’t want to include bone is because dogs need a balanced ratio of calcium to phosphorus, this ratio needs to be between 1:1 and 2:1 calcium to phosphorus. The pre-mixes are made with calcium and without phosphorus. Muscle meat and organ meat is high in phosphorus but has no calcium, while bone is high in calcium in lower in phosphorus. For raw feeders the correct ratio of muscle meat, organ meat and bone (80%, 10%, 10%) must be fed to ensure that the calcium and phosphorus levels are within balance and that enough organ meat is provided to provide essential vitamins and minerals – this is the most critical part of feeding homemade raw! The purpose of a pre-mix is to take the hard work out of it. Enough calcium is added to the pre-mix so that when boneless meat is added per the package instructions the calcium to phosphorus ratio will be in balance and most brands add the vitamins and minerals that would be found in the organ meat so that the addition of organ meat is not necessary. If you added organ meat and bones to a pre-mix you would potentially be throwing the calcium to phosphorus ratio out of balance and/or oversupplying certain nutrients. However, you could definitely add an rmb (such as a back or a neck) to the meal daily without throwing the calcium to phosphorus ratio out of whack – just feed the rmb in addition to the boneless meat that you add to the pre-mix, don’t count the rmb as the meat you’re adding to the pre-mix. I’d also go with the instructions that call for more meat and less pre-mix if you’re going to be feeding rmbs, as well. I know for THK’s preference there are two sets of instructions – one recommended for younger or more active dogs and one for older or more sedentary dogs. The one for active dogs called for 2 parts meat to 1 part pre-mix, while the one for less active dogs calls for equal parts of pre-mix and meat. While THK doesn’t supply the c:p ratio of the prepared product I’d assume the recipe calling for 2 parts meat to 1 part pre-mix is around 1:1, while the recipe calling for equal parts pre-mix is closer to 2:1. Using the recipe that calls for less pre-mix will keep the c:p ratio lower so when you add rmbs you’ll remain well within the 1:1 – 2:1 range. As for which type of boneless meat to add, you really can add any boneless muscle meat. I find that heart and gizzards tend to be cheapest (remember, heart and gizzards count as organ meat, not muscle meat). However, you certainly could buy ground beef, turkey, chicken, etc. (I’d keep it around 90% lean) or chop up boneless thigh meat breast meat or whatnot. Hope that wasn’t too confusing!
As for getting a picture, I think Dr. Mike has instructions on how to do it posted under the feedback and help section of the forums.
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Recent Topics
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Current promotional codes for online casinos in Poland
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Adam John
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1 month ago -
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Innovations in pet care
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Good dog food for almost 16 year old with elevated liver enzymes and beg kindey
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Recent Replies
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Goody Goodrich on Badlands Ranch Superfood Complete
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Adam John on Current promotional codes for online casinos in Poland
-
Elliot Wilson on Current promotional codes for online casinos in Poland
-
Futsum Abraham on Cane Corso lipomas
-
Evans Shane on Badlands Ranch Superfood Complete
-
Victor Renaud on Food mix recommendations and homemade food book recommendations?
-
Rachael Baum on Supplement recommendations for Cushing’s Disease?
-
Victor Renaud on Large and Giant Breed Puppy Nutrition
-
Emma Monty on Large and Giant Breed Puppy Nutrition
-
Mike Killion on symptoms worsen on hypoallergenic
-
Mozelle Koss on Your recommended brands
-
Mozelle Koss on Expiration on kibble question
-
Adam Bee on Hip and Joint supplements
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Barb Conway on Acid Reflux
-
Adam Bee on Need feeding advice please