Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine (Canned)


Rating: ☆☆☆☆☆

Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine canned dog food is not rated due to its intentional therapeutic design.

The Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine product line includes one canned dog food, a recipe designed to help in the treatment of joint conditions.

Hill's Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine

Canned Dog Food

Estimated Dry Matter Nutrient Content

Protein = 20% | Fat = 18% | Carbs = 54%

Ingredients: Water, rice, lamb liver, pork by-products, flaxseed, whole grain corn, lamb, cracked pearled barley, fish oil, soybean meal, soybean oil, powdered cellulose, chicken liver flavor, dicalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, egg product, potassium chloride, iodized salt, vitamins (vitamin E supplement, thiamine mononitrate, ascorbic acid (source of vitamin C), niacin supplement, calcium pantothenate, vitamin B12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, biotin, vitamin D3 supplement, riboflavin supplement, folic acid), choline chloride, l-lysine, iron oxide color, taurine, minerals (zinc oxide, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, calcium iodate), glucosamine hydrochloride, l-carnitine, chondroitin sulfate, beta-carotene

Fiber (estimated dry matter content) = 4.1%

Red items indicate controversial ingredients

Estimated Nutrient Content
Guaranteed Analysis20%18%NA
Dry Matter Basis20%18%54%
Calorie Weighted Basis17%38%46%
Protein = 17% | Fat = 38% | Carbs = 46%

The first ingredient in this dog food is water, which adds nothing but moisture to this food. Water is a routine finding in most canned dog foods.

The second ingredient is rice. Is this whole grain rice, brown rice or white rice? Since the word “rice” doesn’t tell us much, it’s impossible to judge the quality of this item.

The third ingredient is lamb liver. This is an organ meat sourced from a named animal and thus considered a beneficial component.

The fourth ingredient includes pork by-products, slaughterhouse waste. This is what’s left of a slaughtered pig after all the prime cuts have been removed.

Although this item contains all the amino acids a dog needs, we consider pork by-products a less costly, lower quality ingredient.

The fifth ingredient is flaxseed, one of the best plant sources of healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Provided they’ve first been ground into a meal, flax seeds are also rich in soluble fiber.

However, flaxseed contains about 19% protein, a factor that must be considered when judging the actual meat content of this dog food.

The sixth ingredient is corn. Corn is an inexpensive and controversial cereal grain. And aside from its energy content, this grain is of only modest nutritional value to a dog.

For this reason, we do not consider corn a preferred component in any dog food.

The seventh ingredient is lamb. Lamb is considered “the clean flesh derived from slaughtered” lamb and associated with skeletal muscle or the muscle tissues of the tongue, diaphragm, heart or esophagus.1

Lamb is naturally rich in all ten essential amino acids required by a dog to sustain life.

The eighth ingredient is barley. Barley is a starchy carbohydrate supplying fiber and other healthy nutrients. However, aside from its energy content, this cereal grain is of only modest nutritional value to a dog.

The ninth ingredient is fish oil. Fish oil is naturally rich in the prized EPA and DHA type of omega-3 fatty acids. These two high quality fats boast the highest bio-availability to dogs and humans.

Depending on its level of freshness and purity, fish oil should be considered a commendable addition.

From here, the list goes on to include a number of other items.

But to be realistic, ingredients located this far down the list (other than nutritional supplements) are not likely to affect the overall rating of this product.

With five notable exceptions

First, soybean meal is a by-product of soybean oil production more commonly found in farm animal feeds.

Although soybean meal contains 48% protein, this ingredient would be expected to have a lower biological value than meat.

And less costly plant-based products like this can notably boost the total protein reported on the label — a factor that must be considered when judging the actual meat content of this dog food.

Next, powdered cellulose is a non-digestible plant fiber usually made from the by-products of vegetable processing. Except for the usual benefits of fiber, powdered cellulose provides no nutritional value to a dog.

In addition, soybean oil is red flagged here only due to its rumored (yet unlikely) link to canine food allergies.

However, since soybean oil is high in omega-6 fatty acids and contains no omega-3’s, it’s considered less nutritious than flaxseed oil or a named animal fat.

Next, iron oxide is a synthetic color additive used in industry to impart a reddish color to food — and paint. In its natural form, this chemical compound is more commonly known as “iron rust”.

We’re always disappointed to find any artificial coloring in a pet food. That’s because coloring is used to make the product more appealing to humans — not your dog. After all, do you really think your dog cares what color his food is?

And lastly, the minerals listed here do not appear to be chelated. And that can make them more difficult to absorb. Non-chelated minerals are usually associated with lower quality dog foods.

Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine
Canned Dog Food
The Bottom Line

Although this is a prescription product, our review has nothing to do with the accuracy of claims made by the manufacturer as to the product’s ability to treat or cure a specific health condition.

So, to find out whether or not this dog food is appropriate for your particular pet, it’s important to consult your veterinarian.

With that understanding…

Judging by its ingredients alone, Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine looks like a below-average wet product.

But ingredient quality by itself cannot tell the whole story. We still prefer to estimate the product’s meat content before concluding our report.

The dashboard displays a dry matter protein reading of 20%, a fat level of 18% and estimated carbohydrates of about 54%.

And a fat-to-protein ratio of about 93%.

Below-average protein. Below-average fat. And above-average carbs when compared to a typical wet dog food.

When you consider the protein-boosting effect of the flaxseed and soybean meal, this looks like the profile of a wet product containing a limited amount of meat.

Bottom line?

Hill’s Prescription Diet Joint Care J/D Canine is a plant-based canned dog food using a limited amount of lamb liver and pork by-products as its main sources of animal protein.

Hill’s Dog Food
Recall History

The following list (if present) includes all dog food recalls since 2009 directly related to this product line. If there are no recalls listed in this section, we have not yet reported any events.

You can view a complete list of all dog food recalls sorted by date. Or view the same list sorted alphabetically by brand.

To learn why our ratings have nothing to do with a product’s recall history, please visit our Dog Food Recalls FAQ page.

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A Final Word

The descriptions and analyses expressed in this and every article on this website represent the views and opinions of the author.

The Dog Food Advisor does not test dog food products.

We rely entirely on the integrity of the information provided by each company. As such, the accuracy of every review is directly dependent upon the specific data a company chooses to share.

Although it's our goal to ensure all the information on this website is correct, we cannot guarantee its completeness or its accuracy; nor can we commit to ensuring all the material is kept up-to-date on a daily basis.

We rely on tips from readers. To report a product change or request an update of any review, please contact us using this form.

Each review is offered in good faith and has been designed to help you make a more informed decision when buying dog food.

However, due to the biological uniqueness of every animal, none of our ratings are intended to suggest feeding a particular product will result in a specific dietary response or health benefit for your pet.

For a better understanding of how we analyze each product, please read our article, "The Problem with Dog Food Reviews".

Remember, no dog food can possibly be appropriate for every life stage, lifestyle or health condition. So, choose wisely. And when in doubt, consult a qualified veterinary professional for help.

In closing, we do not accept money, gifts or samples from pet food companies in exchange for special consideration in the preparation of our reviews or ratings.

However, we do receive a fee from Chewy.com for each purchase made as a direct result of a referral from our website. This fee is a fixed dollar amount and has nothing to do with the size of an order or the brand selected for purchase.

Have an opinion about this dog food? Or maybe the review itself? Please know we welcome your comments.

Notes and Updates

11/01/2016 Last Update

  1. Adapted by the Dog Food Advisor and based upon the official definition for beef published by the Association of American Feed Control Officials, 2008 Edition
  • anon101

    Well, as someone who takes fish oil and has given it to dogs.
    I do detect a slight fishy odor to breath an hour or two after meals, but it usually isn’t present all day long.
    It doesn’t bother me.
    But, some folks may be more sensitive to odors and scents.
    I have a friend who gets sick if she smells a scented candle.
    I wouldn’t worry too much if the vet gave them a clean bill of health.
    Have a friend (another dog person) get a whiff and see what they think.

  • 2crazylabs

    Thanks for such a quick response. Yes, the vet did a visual exam of the mouth. Her teeth are actually in really good shape. No missing teeth and no tarter build up at all. Both of my dogs eat the same food and they both have this same stinky breath which makes me think it is the food. I was hoping someone else may have experienced the same thing, then I would feel better knowing it is the food and not something else going on. I will continue to ask the vet every time we go. Or try out another vet. I really like the one we go to though.

  • anon101

    Hmm, it could be fish breath. However, bad breath usually means bad teeth. Periodontal disease.

    Did the vet do a thorough dental exam, including x-rays if there is any inflammation or concern that root remnants may be left behind? They are not visible just by exam. Sometimes a tooth falls out but part of the root is still in there resulting in pain and infection.
    If not, I would start there, they may be due for a cleaning and possibly need some extractions.

  • 2crazylabs

    Hello. I have been feeding my 2 labs this hills JD formula for about a year and a half.. although it has helped with joint issues tremendously their breath is absolutely awful!!! It has a large amount of fish oil so I’m wondering if it is that causing this issue. Has anyone else experienced this? It really concerned me. The vet didn’t seem to think anything about it.

  • sandy

    It’s in the middle of an update actually. Literally, just sent the update to the Editor yesterday! So the yellow box and the article might not match until the finished update which should be shortly.


    I found this information helpful in it’s primarily objective method of analyzing appropriate criteria. If I have read everything accurately, I noticed a possible misreading of the ingredient list. The article lists the third ingredient as liver from an unidentified source, however the third ingredient appears to be lamb liver in the product information. This isn’t meant to be a negative statement, just an observation.

  • InkedMarie

    Let me add that since white potato can be inflammatory, look for a grainfree without that as well.

  • Hound Dog Mom

    Hi sk –

    Grains are inflammatory so I would suggest picking out a quality 4 or 5 star grain-free food. Many foods advertise the inclusion of glucosamine and/or chondroitin but I have yet to see a food that includes therapeutic levels, so you’d be better off just searching for a quality grain-free food. If the dog isn’t already on joint support supplements I’d recommend adding a supplement that contains ingredients such as glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM, hyaluronic acid,esterified fatty acids or green lipped mussel. High doses of omega 3’s, bromelain, boswellia, turmeric (curcumin), yucca and tart cherry are all natural anti-inflammatories that might be worth supplementing if there’s a lot of stiffness. Of course short, frequent bouts of low impact activity will also help to keep the dog’s weight down (very important for dogs with joint issues) and to keep the joints strong, flexible and lubricated.

  • sk

    I’m looking for quality dog food for my dog with joint problem. Ain’t sure whether this is the right product as the review doesn’t make the dog food sound good?! Anyone could help??

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  • Chrissy

    We have four pugs now…I was on here awhile back when we were going through liver shunt with out beloved pug Daisy. She passed away during her second operation. It was a long road and there were so many things that went wrong. W ehave adopted two new girls, both pugs. They were in really bad situations and one of our new little girls has HD, luxating patellas, and spondylosis all stage four and secondary osteoarthritis. She is only 2 years old. SHe is not a surgical candidate. We were told that there is a surgery that can be done in two parts, however if anything even the slightest thing were to go wrong we would be facing putting her down. We are medically managing her.
    We are looking for a diet for her. We were told Science Diet J/D dry to feed her by the vets…however we have been talking to many others who have orthopedic dogs and they claim this is not the way to go with these dogs. I know that one cannot give medical advice, but are there anything we should be looking for when choosing a dog food for her needs? I really want to feed her a good diet and get her going on the right supplements. I appreciate your time! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

  • Mike P

    That can happen if she ate too much fat at one time and she wasn’t used to it. If you give her a small piece and then each day a little more her system would have a chance to adapt to it. Of course there is the off chance that she PREFERS raw meaty bones and is trying to train YOU to give her what she prefers…LOL.

  • Mike P

    I gave my dog beef trachea twice and she threw up both times. She’s doing alot better witth RMB’s .

  • Nancy

    I agree with Shameless and would also add chicken necks and turkey necks as a huge natural source of Glucosamine Chondroitin as well as a way to maintain dental health.

    I would also like to add that our experience with hundreds of dogs is that any grain/potato in the diet has a tendency to dry out or interfere with the effective lubrication of the joints to make matters worse. Consequently, I would recommend switching to a raw diet or a good grain/potato free kibble. I have no science to back this up – only real life experiences with lots of dogs whose joints improved after getting off grain/potato and adding turkey necks to their diet.

  • ShamelessRawFoodie

    Nancy – For dog joint health, you can feed raw chicken feet or beef trachea.
    Find a local source: http://www.eatwild.com/products/index.html

    Free- Range Organic Chicken Feet
    Chicken feet are an excellent supplement as they contain Glucosamine and Chondroitin. Glucosamine aids in the repair and renewal of damaged or worn cartilage and Chondroitin helps neutralize the destructive enzymes and improves the quality of the synovial fluid.

    Beef Trachea chews are hollow and come from the windpipe of a bull. The cartilage that lines the outside of the trachea provides the added health benefits of a naturally occurring form of glucosamine and chondroitin.

  • Nancy

    I have a 17 year old that obviously has arthritis. She takes joint chewable supplements and Omega 3, along with Metacam and a multi vitamin. My vet recommended Hill’s JD and mix it in with her blue buffalo (that she doesn’t like and it might be the size of the kibbles, but 2 of my dogs don’t like blue). I know you said you don’t recommend JD but based on it’s contents, what is in it that would help with arthritis that I could try and find supplements for and not use the JD food?

  • Gordon

    Ha ha – What a lack luster rebuttal. By the way, don’t you worry about my dogs’ health. I spend enough time on this aspect, and they’re doing just super thanks. Rather than this becoming a tit for tat childish array of postings, that I’ve allowed myself to be involved in, I’ll allow you to knock yourself out and have the last word.

  • melissa

    LOL.. Oh please Gordon, do not flatter youself.

  • Gordon

    You know melissa, I don’t know what your level of education reached was, nor am I interested but I get the impression, it isn’t of substantial level. But I can tell that you really don’t have a good grasp of what I am communicating, and appear to dispute almost any mostly factual statements that I make, bar the flea comment, of which mind you, I clarified. You seem to have a problem digesting or accepting any statements backed up or otherwise, with a dismissive attitude eluding to the impression that you appear self centred and one track minded. For that, I really can’t help you. That’s something you may have to work on, to change yourself. I doubt that you would, given your often snide comments.

    As for me, I am always up for the challenge with an enthusiastic thirst for knowledge and willingness to research multiple scientific sources on not just topics of this website, but anything in general.

  • melissa


    There is no need for me to “gather information from other sources” when I am not stating something as fact or making an ascertation that appears to be larger than life.One comment I stated as fact was re- Safeheart and info to verify was in fact provided. Common sense apparently is not so common when one makes a statement without regard to the potential that the flea merely jumped off ones bedding left on an AC unit- As well, since I do possess common sense, I do not harbor any questions regarding your statements, hence no need to google and research. My only questions were why you would actually believe that the sun is rising every day and ridding this world of bacteria and fleas, lmao. For if that were the case, most of the world would be bug and disease free, and I could leave food out after a barbeque.

    Further, since you have visible fleas on your pet’s bedding, I would suggest that perhaps you are spending too much time googling exacting facts which could be better spent on making your living environment(and your dog’s) much healthier.

  • Gordon

    Absolutely! I never claimed otherwise. And if you note, I now state after any of my comments that favour raw feeding, to of course “Take all common sense sanitary precautions” I’m more than happy, as I have when a few might dwell further from my comments and ask me to elaborate, that I do, and will explain if further necessary, of the kinds of sanitary precautions ones should take. As of course any of us who are in the know, including yourself, do.

  • Gordon… On one thing we can obviously agree. Neither of us has any problem recommending raw meaty bones. Or feeding quality raw diets of any kind. That should be evident.

    However, I’m sure you can also agree that because thousands of visitors drop by here daily in hopes of learning more about these superior types of diets, we’re also obligated to caution them regarding the risks of handling raw meats. In that sense, the ongoing discussion could easily be misinterpreted by the less informed that sunlight might negate that concern. Would you agree with that?

  • Gordon

    Melissa – I just stated facts with scientific sources. I never see you do the same? Why not venture outside this website to gather numerous sources and see if answers to any questions you may have, align? Now that doesn’t imply that Mike’s website isn’t factual or informative. Quite the contrary. It is very informative, factual on most accounts and aligns wit many other sources of information I’ve read from elsewhere.

  • Gordon

    Mike – I’ve just checked that comment of mine you quoted, which was under the Dry Food and the Myth of Cleaner Teeth and yes I stated “My dogs, and that would be every dog that is given raw meaty bones, will use their jaws and front scissor teeth and move around, or move their head etc, so the bones don’t stay eaten from the bowl only. That’s why I give it to them outside in the back yard, and come the next day, daylight and sunshine naturally kill bacteria off, so that’s not a problem.”…..And yes, on a number of accounts you have misunderstood and how!

    Now, where in the above quote did I say that any bones are left out the next day for sun radiation sterilisation? Of course I’m going to give my dogs raw meaty bones outside and not inside at the dinner table. That would be ludicrous! And did I not say to Melissa, that my dogs nor would I imagine any dogs would leave any remnants or fragments of any meat and bones from a serve of same to them? That means, dogs eat and crunch such raw meaty bones then and there as I supervise them to make sure they don’t choke on any during feeding. So that means they complete all and any serve of this leaving absolutely no remnants behind. Now what does that mean……It means come the next day, there aren’t any remnants left over for any of it to be sitting outside exposed to the elements.

    I also stated that same communication to Melissa when responding to her question….of that my dogs do not leave any remnants of such foods for it to be exposed to the sun the next day. This being unlike road side carcasses. Completely two different scenarios.

    And yes I, just like you, do passionately defend my claims and back them up with numerous references. Is this a problem? Is it a case of Mike’s way or the highway? Is this not an open forum on the topic of canine nutrition and related?

    Can you see the difference between feeding a dog raw meaty bones as a last snack of the day, where the dog leaves no remnants behind, and therefore not exposed to weather elements the next day, other than any possible moistness residue which would dry up and upon the sun’s UV radiation and of even rain either dry up and neutralise any possible growth of bacteria or washed away by rain. Either way, nature’s elements of natural cleaning. Did I not say with regard to my dogs’ bowls on a number of occasions that I disinfect them, then wipe them down?

    It appears you have grossly misunderstood me in these cases. I’m happy to defend anything I stated and am also happy to admit error as I did earlier regarding the method of ridding fleas from dog bedding.

    You appear to me that you feel I am misleading people, or that perhaps my communication is not clear. Otherwise, I haven’t the slightest idea on what the purpose of your offense to my public message regarding the benefits of feeding raw meaty bones and raw foods to dogs actually are!

    Also do I not add to such public messages, to exercise common sense sanitary precautions?

    I’m happy to either defend or elaborate on any further quotes of mine you dispute, and wish to air. If so, I’ll await further quotes of your so-dubbed misrepresentation and irresponsibility you claim I am making?

    Are you getting the picture yet?

  • melissa


    We have been discussing raw meaty bones and your reason for giving them outside versus in the house. Your claim was that the sunlight would “disinfect” if you will the bones and/or the area in which the raw meaty bone may have come in contact with. While sunlight may disenfect to “some degree” give the proper strength and duration needed, it can not be used in defense when one is questioned about the potential from bacteria by feeding such product. Under no circumstances would I suggest that a dog be left with raw product outside on a warm day, let alone a hot one, or even with a rawhide bone for that matter. Each can become a festering mess of bacteria and contaminate. Instead, if someone were looking to give this in the safest manner(from a bacteria prospective) I would suggest it be given on a tile or other (limited space) non porous surface which could in fact be disenfected after the dog has finished their treat.

    As I have said before, everyone is entitled to present their ideas, thoughts or beliefs, but presenting such information as fact, rather than opinion can/could have devastating results for less informed readers.

  • Gordon… You first brought up the subject of sunlight and raw meat on May 4, when you said to Jonathan: “My dogs, and that would be every dog that is given raw meaty bones, will use their jaws and front scissor teeth and move around, or move their head etc, so the bones don’t stay eaten from the bowl only. That’s why I give it to them outside in the back yard, and come the next day, daylight and sunshine naturally kill bacteria off, so that’s not a problem.”

    Since that time, whenever you’ve been challenged about that claim (that sunlight kills bacteria on raw meat), you’ve repeatedly posted comments defending your position.

    For example, on May 7 Melissa asked you “Gordon, I have seen you post this comment many times and have to ask…What makes you believe that raw meaty bones baking in the sun “kills off” the bacteria rather than making it grow and flourish?”

    On May 8, you responded to Melissa with a lengthy post (complete with a number of references) and including the words, “I’m going by many media reports such as current affairs programs etc, that from time to time have experts such as microbiologists stating how sunlight’s radiation kills bacteria in the open.”

    There have been many other comments since then (including the ones today) passionately defending your claim regarding the protective power of sunlight on raw meat . Am I wrong in my understanding of your position?

  • Gordon

    Mike – Please quote me on where I ever stated to leave raw meaty bones outside under the sun’s natural UV rays?

    I’m waiting with anticipation. Also, might I suggest you not hastily read my postings however long they may be, and digest same carefully.

  • Gordon… Pathogenic bacteria (like E. coli and Salmonella) can be lethal to humans (and other animals). Sure, under ideal conditions, UV light can be bactericidal.

    However, natural sunlight absolutely (positively) does not sterilize raw meat. That is preposterous. Animal tissue infected with disease-causing bacteria is extremely hazardous to humans (especially young children, the elderly and immune-compromised individuals).

    Unfortunately, your persistent suggestion that raw meat left outdoors in sunlight is safe to handle is not accurate and medically irresponsible.

  • Gordon

    Ironically, I am a ghost of sorts, but not in the context of my above comment, lol

  • Gordon

    Maybe Jonathan. I Might be in hospital along with numerous other raw feeders affected by these raw meat contamination, and not even know it. Or perhaps, you’re talking to a ghost who like, in the Bruce Willis film, The 6th Sense, and not even realised that I or others have died from such contamination.

    And actually, no, the subject at late, at least between Melissa and I, was about road side carcasses and the common back yard. I said previously, that my dogs don’t leave any meat or bone fragments after a raw meaty bone feed. I can’t imagine any dog would, unless not having the jaw strength or strong teeth from lack of previous such feeds, or for any other minority and isolated cases.

  • Jonathan

    That’s all great, Gordon, but we are talking about potential contamination from meaty bones, right? Because bones are 3-D objects with nooks, crannies, and an entire underside that may not be exposed to the direct UV’s. therefore, those areas become great little warm breeding grounds for the types of bacteria that can hurt people.

  • Gordon

    Mea Culpa on the information that fleas are killed off from dog bedding under sunshine. On further investigation and the reason why after I exposed my dogs bedding outside on a warm sunny day, then patted same down, and could not see any fleas is because most dog beds (my dogs’ included) are made of synthetic materials and fleas will jump off from the surface of these when exposed to direct sunshine and heat, as opposed to being killed. However, any eggs laid may still be embedded in the material and exposure to UV light does not get rid of these.

    With regard to bacteria, (As I’m of the mindset not to just dismiss something as laughable or incorrect based on a minimal of one website and one person), I did some extra research , including speaking over a phone conversation with a Craig, a microbiologist at the Department of Microbiology of La Trobe University, in Victoria, Australia, and he confirmed what I had heard several times on various current affairs programmes. He stated that the sun’s UV radiation can and does kill bacterias including salmonella and e. coli, in conjunction with dry heat, as bacterias and viruses for that matter, he said, can not survive because of the combined factors of heat, dryness and UV radiation. He went on to say, to keep in mind that such UV radiation on a warm cloudless day (full exposure to the sun’s rays) will reach surfaces and kill bacteria on those surfaces, but will not and can not penetrate surfaces, and therefore can not travel deeper into things beyond the surface.

    If anyone doubts I went through the trouble of making such further inquiries including a phone call to this Craig, you can phone +61 3 9479-1114 and confirm that a Gordon who had introduced himself as a general member of the public, spoke to Craig from La Trobe University, (a supposed expert in microbiology). You can also Google this phone number to confirm it comes from La Trobe University.

    I went on to further investigate what ever literature I could uncover and found the following where I quote from a CSRIO source and provide references:-

    “UV light rapidly inactivates microorganisms in culture, killing up to 4 log before the death rate slows” Shapton and Shapton 1991.

    “UV light causes permanent cross-links to form in the microbial DNA, preventing the cell from carrying out its normal functions” Sastry et al. 2000.

    “In general, anaerobic organisms are more sensitive to UV light than the aerobes, and Gram negative bacteria and rods are more sensitive than Gram positive and cocci” Sykes 1965….. “but successes have been reported against Salmonella on poultry” Wallner-Pendleton et al. 1994…… “and against Pseudomonas aeruginosa” Abshire and Dunton 1981.

    “The lethal effect of UV light varies with intensity and length of exposure, but temperature, pH, relative humidity and degree of initial contamination also affect its performance” Banwart 1989.

    “UV light has low penetrating power, because its inherent energy is low in comparison with ionising radiation, so any obstruction to the path of the rays, such as dust, shadowing or clumping of bacteria can reduce efficacy. So the effectiveness of UV light is less on a rough surface than on a smooth one” Huang and Toledo 1982; Stermer et al. 1987.

    Most studies have used low intensity UV for 9 minutes or more, but if high intensity UV light was used, exposure times could be less than 10 seconds (Stermer et al. 1987).

    Other sources include:-

    “UltraViolet Radiation…because of
    its bactericidal capabilities, UV light
    is useful as both a research tool
    and a sterilizing technique”
    Volume 12, page 118

    “Ultraviolet rays with wavelengths shorter than 300 nm are effective in killing bacteria and viruses.
    Hospitals use germicidal lamps that produce these short rays to sterilize surgical instruments,
    water, and the air in operating rooms…”
    1997 Edition Volume 20, page 17


    The Effects of Over Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation on the Growth of Plants and Bacteria at http://mypages.iit.edu/~smile/bi8802.html ……Conclusion:-

    “Experiments have shown that ultraviolet radiation damages and kills the cells of living organisms. The experiments performed in this project alone demonstrate this. We see examples of its deleterious effects not only in plants and bacteria but in human beings as well. Skin cancer is an example of this. It is caused by ultraviolet radiation being absorbed by our skin cells.There are, however, protective mechanisms in our bodies and in our environment that function to minimize or prevent the deleterious effects caused by over exposure of living organisms to ultraviolet radiation. Pigment, present in the skin of most human beings, and ozone, present in the stratosphere, both serve to absorb ultraviolet radiation.”

    Another source:-

    “UV causes adjacent thymine molecules to react with each other to form TT dimers. These dimers prevent DNA replication. DNA repair enzyme can excise them but mistakes are made during this repair which produces mutations.”
    Ron Baker, Ph.D


    etc etc etc

    There’s countless and countless of similar literature to be found in support that the sun’s UV radiation can and does kill bacterias. Of course, the success of such, from all I’ve gathered today, in a nutshell, is dependent on the intensity of such radiation, the heat and dryness, humidity, and unhindered factors, to be a success in destroying bacteria, hence alter their DNA molecules blah blah blah……

    In addition hospitals will use “germicidal lamps” that emit concentrated UVC type radiation to ensure bacteria and virus destruction on the walls, floors, surfaces, and other areas of hospitals.

  • Meagan

    Thank you for putting my mind at ease about that. I do not want to be poisoning my babies by trying to save them from diseases. I am still learning everyday, even after going to school for it.

  • melissa


    Our problem here is ticks, not fleas and the Frontline Plus every 45 days works just fine-and all my dogs are dosed at that interval from the smallest 10lb dog up to my dobies. : ) I usually start when the weather is warm(march-April depending on the year) and stop after the first good frost(usually around November)

  • Meagan

    I use to stop putting Frontline on them in about november, but then I guess I got to over analyzing things and worried about fleas. Never have had them, knock on wood. So maybe I will start applying it every 45 days and also stopping in november again.

  • Meagan

    So Melissa you use frontline plus and put it on every fourty five days instead of thirty? Does that differ between weights of the dogs or is it good for all, in your opinion? Thanks!

  • Pit Bull Mama

    @Bob : I would switch him to the Previcox. I am a vet tech and the mom to an arthritic 11 year old Pittie. She does well on the Previcox and we were told by our holistic vet that it’s safer for her liver than Rimadyl or Deramaxx. Deramaxx also tends to give the dogs diarrhea. Have you heard of adequan injections? Those might help your dog.

  • melissa

    Lol.. Gordon-the fleas probably jumped off the dog bedding I have not had a problem with fleas in at least 20 yrs-not a single one, however, even in a house, fleas can and will lay eggs deep into the carpeting, only to hatch and reinfest a dog. Warm, moist conditions(and tall grasses) have nothing to do with it-they are not mushrooms : ) Fleas are opportunistic and have nothing to do with being unsanitary(well unless of course you allow your pet and house to be infested and do nothing about it!) I know you are not being arguementative, you are stating your belief or what you have heard. If you really think through your statement rationally, that sunlight can kill parasites(especially those with a hard exoskeleton) think of the various bugs out there, in the sunlight, every day and they are just fine-By the sunlight school of thought, june beetles, crickets, grasshoppers, lady bugs etc should all be dead within 10 mins of the sun coming up every day. Your own comment “bedding does not have a warm blood circulation” hence they die within minutes even contridicts what you have said in the last posting re-living in/under porches etc : )

  • Gordon… I’ve noticed you repeatedly advise readers that sunlight eliminates bacteria and (now) fleas. This is simply not true. Unscientific claims like this can be misleading and have dangerous consequences for less informed readers.

    Fact: Food left outdoors in a non-refrigerated state can be exceptionally dangerous (to both humans and pets). In fact, in a warm and moist environment, bacteria replicate and grow into concentrated and pathogenic (disease-causing) concentrations.

    Feeding raw meats isn’t simply a veterinary issue but a potentially hazardous human health issue.

    As a medical professional, I must once again warn readers to treat raw meat with respect at all times. Although not all raw meat is inherently dangerous, much of it can be if not handled with the utmost respect.

  • Gordon

    Melissa – Not to sound argumentative, albeit a civil debate, but all fleas are mostly vulnerable the same way, world wide, unless I’m missing something here. Fleas as you say, do wait for the opportunity to hop onto hosts, and the reason why they live prior to finding a live food source, is because fleas are found mostly in waiting, in long grasses, under houses, and amongst built-up unsanitary conditions, of which all provide some moisture, warmth and cover from direct sunlight. At least that’s the case down under. With regard to dog bedding, and depending on the material, fleas unlike dust mites, bacteria, and molds that can and do burrow with in the bedding itself, fleas don’t do this, since, with out a live host on it, they don’t burrow into the bedding hence are exposed on the surface of the pillow, then die on exposure to direct sunlight, unless they have a surrounding that they can quickly hop into that protect them from same.

    That’s the reason that they can be rid from dog bedding when exposed to direct sunlight. I was first advised this, by my Vet’s Vet nurse, and have regularly practiced this since, with success. What I do is periodically, replace the dog bedding from its kennel onto a non porous surface such as my air conditioner’s outside motor enclosure for about 10 to 15 minutes, during a warm sunny day, and hey presto, on close inspection after a quick pat down, I could never see any visible signs of flea life.

  • melissa

    Hi Gordon-

    In my part of NY, the vets tend to favor Interceptor and Heartgard, although some do recc the combo products for convenience that kill both heartworm and fleas.

    Sunlight , imo, does not kill fleas…at least not those in the good old United States, lol. They can live very adequately for a period of time in the sand, gravel, soil etc. Or in your house if it gets infested. However, simply given the fact that fleas are outside and come inside(via a host) is proof that mere sunlight will not kill these little blood suckers-otherwise, there would be no fleas present during summer months, and that is “our” primary flea season : )

  • Gordon

    Watching The Late Show with David Letterman, right as I make the following comment. Yes we get that show down under, and I’ve watched it for years. I think he’s hilarious, as well as Craig Ferguson. Anyway, I digress.

    I wonder what your local Vets administer for heartworm prevention, instead? My pooches are currently on Frontline Plus and yes, it is apparently meant only to spread all over the skin and its oils. I’m currently looking into natural garlic alternatives for prevention of fleas all year round. Garlic is stated to work against fleas but not ticks. Paralysis ticks are the worrisome ticks to be weary of. I don’t have those around my area, according to my Vet anyway.

    Many people also use chemical and/or natural sprays on dogs’ bedding to keep fleas off. However, just like the sunshine kills bacteria on exposure, it also kills fleas on exposed dog bedding, because fleas left on the bedding don’t have the harbouring protection they do when clung into the fur and skin of dogs, or cats for that matter. Not to mention that the bedding lacks warm blood circulation, hence the fleas die off after a good 10 minutes exposed to sunlight. Just another tip in case you or anyone else is interested.

  • melissa

    I do not know enough about ProHeart to truly comment. What I do know is that it was recalled in the US in 2004-when it was Proheart 6. Apparently it has been re-released as Proheart 12. I can tell you that I have yet to find a vet in our area that uses or reccomends this product.

    I use Frontline after much research and have for years, however, not at the 30 day intervals and not year round. This product is supposed to stay in th skin/hair layer and not be absorbed into the bloodstream. We do not have a flea issue where I live, but rather ticks, and the 45 day dosing seems to work just fine in preventing issues.

  • Gordon

    Yeah, I’m leaning toward using natural alternatives to Frontline and Advantix for flea and tick control, and have a good idea on a several good alternatives.

    However, I’ve just checked my dogs’ Vaccination Record and the injection they’ve received for heartworm prevention is ProHeart® SR-12 which is an annual injection as opposed to 6-monthly. At further investigation it contains Moxidectin at Conc, /g 100mg. It appears to be made by the world wide Pfizer pharmaceutical corporation.

    The above information I retrieved from a data sheet with, mind you, what appears to have many unknowns by using the words “no data” and “not set” next to some headings. To me, that is always a concern. The data sheet I found revised in 2007 can be found at https://www.pfizeranimalhealth.com.au/documents/e/1547/6950,ProHeart%20SR-12%20Injection.pdf

    At any rate it appears to be doing its job, and my dogs have no undesirable or negative reaction, allergic or otherwise. The injection, of course, was administered by my Vet.

    It could perhaps, like poor canine nutrition, result in long term effects. Who really knows? I mean, if Vets like general practitioners (GP’s) or (physicians as Americans refer to) prescribe government approved pharmaceuticals and medications, and we entrust same to administer such for our and our pets’ health and well being, whilst these very same vaccinations and or medications may be toxic and therefore hazardous, then where is the fine line between actual truth lectured by university professors, and those lectures and marketing done by pharmaceutical and pet food companies for that matter?

    All this certainly beggars further investigation and “man” do I like reading! So I, like every person should, given time, perform their own investigations, to seek as much of the truth as possible, behind these types of chemical concoctions used on our pets.

  • Melissa


    I am not sure what injectable you are referring to? If you mean the Proheart 6, it is only good for 6mths, not one year, and it is moxidectin if my memory serves me correctly. However, Proheart 6 was in fact taken off the market, at least here in the US-though I have heard it did return recently.

    Milbemycin Oxime is the active ingrediant in Interceptor tablets-the once a month oral tablet, amongst others. Gordon-you strike me as a very astute pet owner. May I ask why you would ever inject or allow your dog to be injected with a long term pesticide??? I have a huge problem with these types of products-Several things come to mind immediately-1) what if the dog has a reaction to the meds?? Just how does one get a long term medication out of the sytem? Afterall its meant to slow release/slow act for a full 6mths. 2) Why is there a need to inject a dog with a 6mth supply of pesticide all at once? The oral tablets such as interceptor(at the regular dose, not the Safeheart dosing, were proven to be something like 100 percent effective if given every 30 days, and 95 percent effective at 60 and 90 days. Even if an owner forgets to give the tablet by a few days or week, it should be of no consequence. The Safeheart dose was tested only out to 30 days, so owners who do the lower(and FDA approved) dose, need to be vigilant about giving it exactly 30 days out to be certain.

    These types of preventatives are right up there on my “hate” list as well as those that combine flea control with heartworm preventative. If the flea preventative needs to be on the SKIN, lets put it there-no reason to send a pesticide through the bloodstream first. If I wanted to keep mosquitoes off me, I sure as heck would not swallow the “off” : )

  • Gordon

    Good for you Meagan. I hope you land a job soon as a Vet assistant. I get the vibe that you’re one of those sweet young 20 something year-olds. I think you’ll make a good assistant. I wish I could turn back time and have decided on a different career path. If I could, I would probably strive to become a Vet, as I’ve always loved all animals, and I also have two parrots (1 x sun conure and the other a cinnamon green cheeked conure). But being 39 years of age, I doubt that one should try to get into Vet school. Besides, I don’t think I’d be smart enough to begin with, regarding all the training, studying, and education involved.

    Labradors are loyal dogs. One of my favourite larger breed type dogs. Yours and Jonathan’s both look good from what I can make out from the small pics.

    Melissa – I don’t think we all attribute canine diseases to just poor food. Just like humans, dogs can and do inherit such, from their gene pool. Other factors can be that dogs, especially those mostly kept indoors are just as susceptible to passive smoking as us humans. But I too believe that most canine diseases are derived from long term poor diets. I said “most”, not all.

    Melissa – Without googling it yet, is Milbemycin oxime the active ingredient in the annual injection for heartworm prevention. Or is it administered differently? If the claim that Milbemycin oxime is dosed at 5 times the required amount, does this mean, we don’t have to stick to our dogs receiving the annual injection and if so, does this mean we can postpone such injection for say, another year, with out compromising the active heartworm prevention?

  • Melissa


    I think we agree that dogs do better with higher quality ingrediants in their food and its apparent that you dislike many of the “lower rated foods”. That is your right of course, and I can not say that I am partically fond of them either. However,I have to say that with all the dogs I have owned and rescued, I have yet to find the diseases that you speak of in epidemic proportions.

    I have yet to loose a dog under the age of 13(last year to cancer-genetic in his breed) no kidney failures, overweight dogs etc etc. While I do believe that they do better with a better quality food, I can not agree that all the diseases we see are merely from the foods-genetics plays a HUGE role in the health “roll of the dice” -hence why some dogs live to 20,others succomb to disease early. As well, not only have the diets changed as you indicate in the past 70 yrs, but we are using pesticides on and in our pets on a monthly basis, and apparently at 5 times the needed dosage. I have to believe that when we blindly feed our dogs Milbemycin oxime(and at 5 times the needed dose to prevent/control heartworm disease) we are not doing them any favors. Its amazing how we pick apart foods and lay blame solely on them, and yet blindly do other things that I do believe are adding to the problem(For those of interest, please goodle the June 4th 1998 study done by Novartis on a never released product called SafeHeart-which seems to show that dogs actually need 1/5 the dose of medication in Interceptor to prevent heartworm-the rest of the dose appears to be to deworm them) For years we vaccinated them every year for diseases, and now, there are 3 yr vaccines-obviously we were overvaccinating as owners attempting to do the “right” thing.

    My point being, these diseases are a result of many things that we do as owners in the quest to be “good owners” and all our practices should be looked at -not just laying solo blame on the foods that we feed.

  • Jonathan

    He is a handsome boy Meagan!

  • Meagan

    Gordon- I went to school for Vet Assistant, I do not work in a clinic yet, but will and when I do I sure as heck will not believe the boss on what they say about foods like Hill’s and Purina. I didn’t believe it at school because I saw the dogs, that were all fed Hill’s, who cared for there everyday. Half had loose stools all the time and the bigger dogs (Labs, pointer x, catahoula x) were thin. I adopted the catahoula x and I am happy to say my boy has solid stools most the time now, unless I switch foods. He also is a nice 60 lbs and looks rather beautiful to me LOL He’s the boy in my pic.

  • Hi Lindsay… Kidney failure is a serious and potentially fatal condition. High protein diets are normally fine for most healthy pets but they’re not appropriate for animal’s in the advanced stages of renal disease. Please do not ignore your vet’s professional advice.

    Unfortunately, since I’m not a veterinarian, it would be inappropriate for me to provide specific health advice or product recommendations. Please see our FAQ page for more information.

  • Brenda… Contrary to your accusation, this review is both factual and truthful. And like the more than 500 reviews on this website, it makes no health recommendations whatsoever.

    Since you obviously did not read the review, I’ll repeat its closing words:

    “The veterinary product reviewed here may or may not be suitable for your particular pet. Moreover, it is not our intention to judge the appropriateness of any dog food to treat a specific condition.

    Nor is it our aim to act as a substitute for sound medical advice.”

    Although we make no attempt here to decipher the medical design of these “prescription” products, we do (as consumers) have every right to question our veterinarians regarding the quality and meat content of these costly, professionally dispensed products.

    After all, considering the cost of the finished dog food, what’s the scientific point of using so many inexpensive, generic ingredients? What does saving money have to do with treating and diagnosing disease?

    Like some physicians who routinely receive much of their drug prescribing information from the pharmaceutical industry, many veterinarians get a significant amount of their own pet food education directly from pet food manufacturers themselves.

    For proof, I refer you to this recent comment posted on our review of Hill’s Prescription Diet I/D Canine formula by a practicing veterinarian…

    Hi Mike,

    I am a veterinarian. Though I see that you are not, I share your views regarding the low quality ingredients in Hills’ foods. This was not always the case. Once upon a time, they were a great, much smaller company. However, in veterinary school most of our nutrition education comes from these big companies who “brainwash” us and schmooze us by offering free food for reading their “educational material” and taking quizzes. I think what you have done here is a good thing in trying to make people more aware of these ingredients. I personally try not to recommend any food that I would not feed to my own pets and this includes all of Hill’s diets and most of the other highly commercialized brands. Most holistic veterinarians have taken extra time to become more knowledgeably about food since what an animal eats can have a tremendous impact on their health, much the same as humans.

    Elisa Katz, DVM

  • Gordon

    See, now that’s what I mean. As I stated under Purina Vet HA diet, it’s better that comments are made shorter, with spelling errors and bad grammar. That way it is more believable to the naive that statements like Brenda’s is exactly that.

    In Brenda’s case I actually believe that you’re a Vet Tech. Vet Tech’s will always believe what their bosses tell them. I can’t fault them for that.

    I think even with out websites like this one, the man of average intelligence, can read the concoction of ingredients like this product and arrive to the conclusion that it is a load of trash! I actually don’t need Mike’s rating system to help form my own opinions. But, gee, how could one begin to defend this trash?

  • Jonathan

    Lindsay, don’t just “stop” the K/D. An alternative needs to be discussed with a vet.

    Brenda, how many less dogs do you think would end up with kidney failure if they were all fed natural, raw foods instead of carb-heavy processed trash like all of Hill’s foods? These foods are a Band-Aid on a much bigger problem… and that problem stems from the prolific use of carbohydrates as an energy source rather than the proteins and fats that a dog would naturally eat it’s entire life. kidney failure, in most cases, as well as cancer, diabetes, tooth decay, weight gain, and heart problems exist in our dogs today because of the extremely sudden introduction of calorically dense carbohydrates within the last 70 years. Millions of years of evolution cannot be bested by 70 years of human concoctions. Carbs are unnecessary and potentially deadly to our dogs.

    So, do not take you dog off of K/D if he is in renal failure. No one here suggests that, let alone the creator of the site. But, by all means, you have every right to talk to your vet about a more healthful solution than this medley of crap.

  • Brenda

    I am a vet tech with over 20 years of experience. I truely believe that Hills K/D is the absolute gold standard for an animal in kidney failure. Minn State University recently completed an study that show animals fed KD lived 2 years longer than animals not fed Kd. This web site is completly without truth. Pet food should be judged on nutients not ingredients. This web site is judgeing foods based on marketing not science. Vets DO NOT make huge money from selling food in fact food is often considered a loss leader. PLEASE PLEASE follow your vet’s suggestions that you have trusted for years. Vet are not in this field to sell dog food, they do thier jos because they animals. Any website that would rate any Hills food with 1 star yet give Cesar dog food 3 stars is crazy listen to your Vet Thankyou

  • This is all great and excellent, and I’m ready to stop the K/D diet immediately, however, can someone give me advice. I liked the avoderm suggestion, but that’s for joints. Lu Lu needs something for kidney failure conditions… low protein, etc. would love suggestions as an alternative to the one star Hill’s KD diet, which (the rating) doesn’t surprise me at all!

  • Meagan

    My friend/co-worker adopted a 2 1/2 year old great dane. does he need to give this dog joint supplements?

  • Jill Prescott

    Mike, you are my hero. Your intelligent and unbiased reviews have provided my dogs with a stellar diet. I posted your site on my Facebook as well as my website.

    Warm regards,

    Jill Prescott

  • April

    I was just looking at Cosequin on the Costco website. A few weeks ago I missed out when they had almost 30 off.

    I have a pitt who is only 2 years old and has hip displaysia already.

    Thank for all the great information, everyone…it’s been very helpful!

  • Bob

    Hi everyone, i have a yellow lab and he is 5 years old. he has arthritis in his wrists and hes been on deramaxx for about 8 months. my breeder told me about the hills jd canine mobility food. would he be ok to have the food without the deramaxx? or should he be on both? the vet is also recommending prevocoxx. he is in alot of pain after walks and play. ive been told he could just stay on the food and that would help alot, what do you think?

  • Hi Everyone… Actually, what appears to make this “prescription” food supportive of joint health is its (frequently overlooked) quality omega-3 fatty acid content. This product boasts a significant amount of the best kind (fish oil). Unfortunately, it’s a real shame J/D contains so little meat.

    By the way, since glucosamine and chondroitin are both considered food supplements (and not pharmaceuticals), government standards do little to assure consumers the content of these commercial additives contain what the manufacturer says they contain. There’s some real “junk” G & C on the market. So, buyer beware.

    As far as I can tell, the “gold standard” in the glucosamine and chondroitin supplement market appears to be Dasuquin and Cosequin. I normally don’t like to endorse any supplements. But regarding this specific topic, we’re dealing with an active, chronic and debilitating disease (osteoarthritis).

    So, for this reason, I’d be inclined to favor “pharmaceutical grade” chondroitin and glucosamine supplements.

    Unfortunately, the quality of these two items is reflected in their pricing. But when it comes to medications, you usually get what you pay for.

    The article, “Getting Your Glucosamine for Dogs Dosage Right” on the Dog Arthritis Blog. This website is hosted by veterinarian, Dr. Christopher Durin and makes an excellent source of scientific and practical information. Hope this helps.

  • Jonathan

    1000 mg/kg means that the product contains 1000 milligrams of glucosamine PER KILOGRAM… not per feeding.That means for a dog to get 1000 mg in ONE DAY, he would have to literally eat one kilogram of food. I don’t think there are many dogs that eat that much food in one day. A kilogram is about 2.2 pounds. That means the amount of Glucosamine present in the food at EACH MEAL is not 1000 mg, but rather must be calculated based on how much food is fed. If your dog eats about 1 pound of food each day, then he would only be receiving about 450 mg of glucosamine total. That number shrinks big time with the amount that most foods advertise like 300 mg/kg. That would only be 136 mg per pound of food fed. This is the amount in Blue Buffalo. While it is still nice that it’s there, you would have to feed an elderly dog 5 POUNDS of Blue in ONE DAY to get the “therapeutic” amount of 700 total mg of glucosamine.

  • Antonio

    Normally this is where I would sayyy ohhh okay, but I’m totally confused, but I thought a MG was a MG across the board. What’s the difference? I’m confused.

  • Jonathan

    Oh, and a dog needs about 350 mg of G and 50 mg of C per 35-40 lb’s of body weight. So your dog would need, like, two Zukes treats worth (total of 700 mg G and 100 mg C). That means if your dog was to get that amount from this food alone, he’d have to eat, as I mentioned before, about 2 lb’s of this food a day.

  • Jonathan

    Antonio, you have to look at the measurement. 1000 mg/kg means that to get a “therapeutic” amount (how much is needed in one day for a medium size dog), the dog would have to eat almost 2 pounds of food per day! Not even a fairly big dog would eat two pounds of food a day. So, there is a decent “maintenance” amount, but to reach what professionals would consider a daily “therapeutic” level, you would still want to add, like, one Zukes hip-action treat or something similar that contains 300 mg. (note, 300 mg. not 300 mg/kg, which, in a treat, would mean it has only a marginal step above none.)

  • Antonio

    wow, how much glucosamine and chondroitin does a dog need to be theraputic? I was always told that for human 750mg per 50lbs or so was considered ideal. What’s the amount for canines?

  • Roger Prows

    Good interjection Jonathan, highly agree on supplementation.

  • Jonathan

    Roger, I am actually (surprisingly) impressed with how much Glucosamine and Chondroitin are in the food you mentioned…
    1000 mg/kg of Glucosamine and 2000 mg/kg of Chondroitin. But I would still mention, being that it is milligrams per kilogram, that is still on the low side of what would be considered “therapeutic” and I would still suggest a mild supplement along with the food. But for regular maintenance, I am more impressed with the amounts this food contains than I am with what most foods contain (usualy 300 mg/kg of G and 150 mg/kg of C).

  • Roger Prows


    Mike can’t make a recommendation, but I can 🙂

    I have had the best experience with Avoderm Senior for joints. It contains NATURALLY derived (cartilage) glucosamine in extremely high levels. Have switched MANY dogs to this and had better results.

  • sue

    i remember a vet use to go to tried to get me to put my dog on science diet K/d I told her right out i would make his food before i put her on that garbage food, she looked shocked and i said if i want corn as my main ingred i would go by a bag and by product and bht/bha they should not be in our dog food. plus the dog food analyser said short term use only and long term will lead to malnutrition

  • Hi April… When it comes to prescription-type foods, there are only a limited number of recipes out there. Unfortunately, since I’m not a veterinarian, I cannot provide specific health advice or product recommendations. You may wish to visit our FAQ page and our reviews for more information. Or check back for a possible response from one of our other readers. Wish I could be more help.

  • April

    My vet just put my pitt on the dry JD yesterday. I’m wondering is there another dry out there that is suppose to do the same thing?

  • Hi Jennifer… Hill’s J/D dry is on our To Do list. But due to our current backlog of reviews, it could be a while longer before we get to it. Thanks for the reminder.

  • Jennifer

    Any reviews for the dry kibble version of the Hill’s Prescription Diet J/D?