Understanding Dog Food Nutrient Profiles

by Mike Sagman
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Minimum Vitamin and Mineral StandardsTen amino acids. Twelve basic minerals. Eleven vitamins. And two kinds of fatty acids.

Whew! No question about it… there certainly are plenty of canine nutrients to think about.

What’s more… each and every one of them is considered absolutely essential… and must be present in the correct amounts… and the right proportions… in every dog food… to help keep your pet free of disease.

So, how can you be sure a particular product meets some kind of minimum dog food nutrition standards?

An Insider’s Secret Revealed

Think about it. Are you really prepared to check every product label to confirm the presence and quantity of each one of these vital nutrients?

Even dog food “obsessives” like me lack the time (not to mention… the patience) to perform that kind of detailed analysis.

But there’s an easier way. And dog food insiders know this label reading secret as the Nutritional Adequacy Statement.

Now, once you know what it is… and where to find it… you can use this simple shortcut to instantly screen any dog food for proper vitamin and mineral content.

How to Know Your Dog’s Food
Meets Minimum Nutritional Standards

The dog food industry defines a nutritionally complete product as one that can be fed to a dog as its sole ration.  In other words, it is capable of maintaining life without adding any other substance… except water.1

Guidelines go on by defining a balanced dog food as one that has “all known required nutrients in proper amount and proportion”.2

Now, think about how unsafe it would be for any dog food to be sold as complete and balanced… when, in fact, that product was deficient in one or more essential nutrients.

That’s what makes a Nutritional Adequacy Statement so valuable.  No, it’s not perfect. But it’s the industry’s most important means for ensuring your dog food meets certain minimum standards.

The All-Important
Nutritional Adequacy Statement

According to the Association of American Fed Control Officials, in order for any dog food company to print the words “complete and balanced” on a package… that claim must first have been validated in one of two ways.

The first uses a product’s recipe (or the laboratory analysis of a sample) to assume it meets AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profile3.  Dog food’s meeting this standard usually include words like…

“(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles”

The second method not only meets the AAFCO profile… but also verifies nutritional adequacy by conducting actual feeding trials with real dogs.  This type of adequacy statement will probably look something like this…

“Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition”

Now, obviously, products tested using this more rigorous method should be given extra consideration.

How to Find the Right Product
for Your Dog’s Stage of Life

Is your dog a growing puppy? An adult? A senior?

AAFCO also requires all Nutritional Adequacy Statements to clearly identify for which life stage a product is most suitable.  Current standards4 include two specific dog food nutrient profiles…

  • Adult maintenance
  • Growth and reproduction

An adult maintenance food is only suitable for non-reproducing adult dogs with normal activity levels.  This same dog food may not be appropriate for growing, reproducing or working animals.

On the other hand, any product described as acceptable for “all life stages” must meet the more stringent growth and reproduction profile.

Sometimes, a product may be labeled for a particular use… or life stage… such as “for senior dogs”.  Even though there are no clear-cut rules governing these various statements, one thing is certain… these special purpose dog foods can have important limitations.

Any product that cannot meet either the adult maintenance or growth and reproduction standards must state…

“This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding”

In other words… it’s a product not intended for long-term use.

Nutritional Adequacy Statements
The Bottom Line

Nutritional Adequacy Statements can save you lots of time. 

And they can go a long way toward providing you some level of assurance your dog’s food might actually come close to meeting important dietary standards.

Unfortunately, though, the statements themselves are not always easy to find.  They can be located virtually anywhere on the package.

Yet rest assured… they’re supposed to be there… somewhere.

If you can’t find the statement… or if the statement itself does not declare the product complete, balanced and appropriate for your dog’s life stage… take a pass.

Don’t buy it.

Because feeding your dog the same deficient product day after day… and week after week… can multiply the error… and possibly cost your dog her life.

  1. Official Publication 2008 Edition, Association of American Feed Control Officials, p. 241 ↩
  2. Official Publication 2008 Edition, Association of American Feed Control Officials, p. 239 ↩
  3. Official Publication 2008 Edition, Association of American Feed Control Officials, pp. 131-132 ↩
  4. Official Publication 2008 Edition, Association of American Feed Control Officials, p. 131 ↩
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  • Meagan

    I have not had a puppy yet in my life so maybe I shouldn’t put my 2 cents in anyways LOL. Both mine have been a year or more when I adopted them. I did graduate in a Veterinary Assistant program though. :) I’m sure Megan will figure out whats best for her baby.

  • Mike P

    LOL Megan , try and keep a baby Boxer from running and jumping until they are 18 mo old ….never happen ..But you can overfeed them

  • Meagan

    Hi Megan- I have read and heard from many people that “puppies shouldn’t be allowed to run or jump excessively until they reach full physical maturity, which is 18 months-2 years.” “The pounding it takes from jogging can damage skeletal development and lead to JOINT problems.” And of course don’t let her get overweight. Hope this helps!

    Dog Bible
    Preventing Joint Problems
    Pg. 492

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Megan… If you feed a food designed for puppies (meeting AAFCO profiles for all life stages or growth), then you should not need any supplements. Supplements on top of a good quality food can move your dog’s diet closer to achieving toxic levels of minerals. According to many experts, the leading cause of bone and joint diseases (especially in puppies of larger breeds) appears to be overfeeding. So, be sure to avoid free feeding. Please visit our FAQ page for more information.

  • Megan

    Hi all I just rescued an 8 week old (now 9 weeks old) pitbull puppy from the local kill shelter. Her litter was abandoned in a field and picked up when she was 6 weeks. She was pretty thin when I got her and has kennel cough but it’s getting a little better and her energy level is skyrocketing. The only problem I’m really having is when I first brought her home from the shelter and would take her outside she would devour grass, sticks, woodchips, shrubs, anything she could get a hold of like her life depended on it. My brother adopted her sister and she does the same thing. I’m assuming this is from having to survive in a field on whatever they could get a hold of? She’s getting better but now she is eating rocks?! I read that this could be a sign of a mineral deficiancy and also that pitbulls have a tendency to eat anything. I haven’t had that problem with her yet (knock on wood). I am feeding her Eukanuba large breed puppy it’s AAFCO “Complete and balanced nutrition for growth.” She was on purina puppy chow and I switched her over pretty fast (kicking myself for fast switch I know better), her vet mentioned all the dyes in the food could cause allergies down the road so I jumped the gun. Her stools are a little dark and on occasion soft. She threw up three times in one day earlier this week which was when I realized as we were walking she was grabbing rocks and dirt (could see the dirt in her throw up). Should I try a mineral supplement or switch her to a better food? I am on a budget but she is a growing active little dog I’m concerned she’s missing something from her diet. She also loves to run. Should I be looking for a food with ingerdients to support her joints as well? We’re running on the sidewalk, 10-15 minutes of warped speed and then nice walk. She doesn’t even get winded I just don’t want to put too much strain on her joints. Thanks for any advice you can give! – Megan

  • Stephen

    I have 4 Belgium German Shepherds and they enjoy Black Gold Lamb and Rice dog food alot, I have a litter of pups now and some of them leave their bowl of Diamond lamb and rice puppy food and go and eat there mothers Black Gold lamb and rice. Thanks Black Gold… Starlight Kennels

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Johanna… I’m not sure what dog food you’re talking about here. But I’d certainly question a salesperson’s recommendation that you should starve your dogs for 3 days. Preventing your dogs from eating sounds medically unscientific (and cruel) to me. I would certainly not recommend following this rather dubious and unprofessional advice.

  • johanna levy

    hi Mike, i have 3 french bulldogs, the used to have skin allergies very bad,, so i gave them the taste of the wild dry food and they are much better, still itch a lot, and they want to eat grass all the time,, so i think they’re stomach maybe hurts . at the doggy store they recommend me to give them brothers grain free red meat protein food,, they told me to not feed them for 3 days and slowly star feeding them with the new food,, iam looking every where for info about this new food, i cant fine anything really good yet,, if you can,, please help me to find out if this brother food its good choice or not,, so i can star feeding my dogs againg,, please help me im so sad about not feeding them for one day,, and i dont know if im doing the best for them,,, thank you very much

  • Janice Carpenter

    I am a brand new pet owner. The puppy is only 5wks old and still with the breeder. I am excited and was confused before I was introduced to you. This has been very helpful…hope I never see some of these difficult problems. I have a bran new pup and I am going to start him on Blue Buffalo puppy food. I hope for many wonderful years of gettting to know my soon to be new friend. I really liked all of your wonderful advice, I have learned alot. Thanks

  • Monica

    **INFO OVERLOAD** ack, I am trying to educate myself as to what foods have more quality for my dogs (I foster rescued labs) and I think I am more confused now than before – there is soooo much to consider!! I will be on this site FOREVER trying to narrow down my choices!! thanks…I think?! :)

  • Karen

    Preventing hot spots on cream/apricot standard poodle:
    I’ve read a few places from owners that changing a dog’s food will prevent hot spots. Do you know which nutrients might help avoid this condition? My dog is 11 months now, and last Summer I think she had a couple of hot spots. I am feeding her Native puppy level 3 and also Canidae. She tolerates the food change well. She consumes about 20# a month and weighs about 38#. Excellent dog, except for some stubborn streaks that I KNOW she gets from my 3 & 1/2 year old grandson! Also, what is in Science Diet that made one of my former dog’s fur and eyes so beautiful? She was a 20# cockapoo, black/tan/white. She looked more cocker than anything. I won’t use SD again, but I wish I knew what made the eyes so brilliant and the fur so smoothe and shiney. Thanks, Karen

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Dave… You make a very good case in favor of using standard indirect methods for establishing the nutritional adequacy of a product. Especially regarding the question of whether the number of animals used is statistically significant. Using the scenario you created in your argument, I (too) must question the true value and accuracy of AAFCO feeding trials.

    I must commend you for the practical reasoning behind your comment… and for making me rethink my own bias.

  • Dave Hopper

    Hi Mike,

    Great website, I cant thank you enough for providing this great resource to the concerned pet owner.

    I would like to get your opinion on one thing though. it has to do with the “Nutritional Adequacy Statement” section above.

    below the lines:
    “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition”

    You Remarked:

    “Now, obviously, products tested using this more rigorous method should be given extra consideration.”

    I would tend to think just the opposite.

    If a company formulates their kibble to AAFCO guidelines, you are reasonably assured a minimum nutritional value.

    However, If a company chooses to formulate their food outside of these guidelines.. then a feeding trial is their only option to get an AAFCO approval.

    Therin lies the problem.

    AAFCO’s guidelines that a minimum of 8 animals are used, and that the kibble being tested is the only nourishment provided ( besides water),

    The tests run for 26 weeks and up to 25% of the animals may be removed from the testing, the rest must complete the test.

    During this time, no animal may loose more that 15% of it’s body weight. Physical exams are conducted before and after the feeding trials, and there is bloodwork done at the end.

    Following these guidelines, if you start with 8 healthy 20 pound dogs, and during the course of the 26 weeks, 2 of them lose 20% of their body weight, and the other 6 lose 15%, the two that lost 20% can be removed from the test, and it is considered a success.

    Personally, The idea of a food that can cause this much of a degredation to the dog’s condition, is far from a “success”

    Now I realize that I’ve just illustrated a “worst case” scenario, and it’s doubtfull that any food would have this dramatic of an effect on the test animals, but the potential is there, for a low quality food to get AAFCO approval and be presented to pet owners as a viable food source.

    What are the implications.. if the worst case happened.. and the test animals lost 15% of their weight in just 6 months, how does this play out for a pet owner who may feed their dog this food for years.

    I would hope that a truly concerned pet owner would notice the physical changes to their animal and switch foods, however the damage may be done by this time, Mal nutrition, organ damage, etc…

    Personally, I think that the “feeding trials” alternative needs to be rethought… stricter standards, longer term testing, and a larger sample group really need to be implemented, before these tests are considered adequate to earn the AAFCO label.

    Your thoughts?

    Regards

    Dave Hopper

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Fred… In most cases, whether the chondroitin and glucosamine are denatured by the cooking process isn’t really the issue. That’s because most dog foods that claim to contain chondroitin and glucosamine usually don’t contain enough of these “drugs” to create what’s referred to as a therapeutic dose (enough medication to achieve the desired clinical effect). To make any real difference for your dog, you may wish to discuss supplementing your their diet with these potentially helpful “nutraceuticals” with your pet’s veterinarian. Hope this helps.

  • Fred Neal

    I’m looking at a change of diet for my 4 Mastiffs. Two of my furgurls have joint issues and I am adding supplemental glucosamine and chondroitin. When I was discussing that one of the foods I was considering had a considerable amount already with a friend, they commented that it was added prior to cooking and it’s effectiveness was destroyed by the heat of cooking, therefore making it useless.

    Thoughts, comments? I appreciate your work here. It sure is hard enough making the right decisions, even without the mfgs. throwing you curves like this.

    As you might imagine, with 4 Mastiffs nothing dog is done in a small way around my house!

  • jessica long

    i think iots wrong and cruewl

  • Louise NOËL

    Hello,
    Concerning ears yeast infections, I got this problem with my golden retriever. I solve the problem with “Tee Tree Oil”, a natural antiseptic.

    Here is the text I wrote at the time (it is not on the Net anymore. You are welcome to use it as you wish.)

    How I came to use Tee Tree Oil to prevent ear infections (otitis) in my dog:

    Problem description:
    I have a 6 and a haft years old female golden retriever named Fanny. I got her in April 1996, at the age of seven weeks. In May 1996, a few weeks after her first vaccine, she developed an ear infection, which came back many times during that summer and every summer since then, except for the last summer. The triggers seem to be the vaccine she receives or swimming, either in soft or salt water. I have been told that dog with falling ears are more subject to develop ear infections because their ears are less exposed to the drying quality of air. The inside of ears stays constantly humid and this environment is favourable to recurrent ear infections. The hot and humid temperature of summer increases this situation which could explain why all of Fanny’s ear infections have happened in the summer. It seems that after a dog has had a first ear infection, she is more susceptible to have more, even if the first was well treated with antibiotics.

    How I tried to solve this problem until spring of 2002:
    Until spring of 2002, each time Fanny had an ear infection, I treated her with the antibiotic prescribed by the veterinary. This medication is excellent to cure ear infections. However it can’t be use as prevention and it has a disadvantage: it is an oily product that stick to the hairs of the dog’s ears and then spread to the hairs of the head and neck. When the dog plays outside, dust and dirt also stick to this oily stuff. After a few days the dog’s head gets very dirty and must be wash. I have tried alcohol to clean the hairs with little success. Moreover the repetitive use of an antibiotic (in Fanny’s case: 2 – 3 times each summer!) seems to me questionable, without taking into account the cost implied. It is know that bacteria develop with time a resistance to antibiotics. I am afraid that this antibiotic being use very often will become less and less effective. And anyhow, I think preferable on the medical and social perspective to limit as much as possible the utilisation of antibiotics: they become less and less effective, they must be replaced constantly and this is dangerous for the animal as well as the human health.

    How I heard about Tee Tree Oil:
    For all the reasons mentioned before, I was very happy when I came upon an article by Jonathan Margolis titled L’huile miracle (The Miracle Oil) in an issue of the October 2001 Reader’s Digest (French Canadian edition, pp.: 96 – 100). This article described the antiseptics effects of Tee Tree Oil for a variety of infections. I decide to try it as prevention for Fanny’s recurrent ear infections.

    How I chose the produce:
    • Many companies produce Tee Tree Oil and it comes in various presentations.
    • After a research on Internet, I chose a company which produces are available in the health stores of the city where I live: Montreal (Quebec, Canada).
    • I then e-mailed this company to ask if this produce could be useful in Fanny’s case or, in the contrary, if it could be harmful. In their answer they cited Cynthia Olsen in her book First Aid Handbook – 101 Plus ways to use Tee Tree Oil who recommend this produce for ear infections. (Note that I do not know Ms Olsen and that I have not read her book.)
    • Ms Olsen suggest mixing pure Tee Tree Oil with olive oil before putting it in the ear. However I did not want to use oil because I did not want to use a produce that would make the hair oily (See the part: How I tried to solve this problem until spring of 2002.)
    • Since I was afraid that the use of pure Tee Tree Oil would cause irritation in the ears, I chose a Water soluble solution with 15% Tee Tree Oil with lavender:
    • Being water-soluble this lotion can be mix with the liquid that I use regularly to clean Fanny’s ears. This liquid does not make the hairs oily.
    • With lavender, this lotion has a very pleasant odour.
    • This solution is offered in two size: 10ml (about 6.75$ Canadians) and 50ml (about 13.45$ Canadians). So it was possible to try it at minimum cost.

    How I used it:
    • In a small dark glass bottle,
    • I put about 1/3 (1 volume) of tee Tree Oil,
    • For 2/3 (2 volumes) of cleaning liquid (Bought from the veterinary).

    The result is a lightly milky liquid. It is important to use a dark glass bottle to protect the mix from the light. Jonathan Margolis in his article mentioned that Tee Tree Oil can lose it’s efficacy if it is not sold in dark glass containers, kept out of light’s way in the house and rapidly used once open.

    Application:
    • Since what I wanted was a preventive effect and that one of Fanny’s ear infections trigger is the vaccines she receive each spring, I started the application of the mix about two weeks before she received those vaccines, in the beginning of April 2002.
    • I applied the mix every two days.
    • I applied the content of about one dropper in each ear.
    • Since swimming is another trigger, I applied the mix every evening of the days where Fanny went swimming.
    • In August, we spent two weeks at the lake and during this period she swam every day. I cheeked her ears every day and, when I saw some redness, I applied the mix twice a day.
    • Back from those vacations, for one or two weeks, I had to continue the twice a day application.
    • At this time (October 2002), I am back to an application every two days.
    • Note that I have tried to use the Tee Tree Oil lotion by itself. The result was not as satisfactory. The mix of the Tee Tree Oil with the cleaning liquid is better because the ears stay cleaner.
    • On the other hand the cleaning liquid alone does not prevent ear infections in Fanny. I have tried it before with no success.

    Results:
    • NO EAR INFECTIONS THREW ALL SUMMER!
    • The ear hairs do not become oily or dirty.
    • I am completely satisfied and look forward to do the same process next spring.

    Continuation:
    Since next spring, I will continue to clean Fanny’s ears with the cleaning liquid only. I do not remember that she ever had an ear infection in wintertime. Because I want the Tee Tree Oil to keep it’s potency, I will keep it in reserve and use it only if I see some signs of infection.

    Warning:
    I am a dog owner only. I have no formation in veterinary medicine or in any other allied sciences. I have tried the 15% Tee Tree Oil water-soluble solution with lavender and it worked on my dog the way I have described in this text. I did not observed any negative secondary effect on my dog. This is not a guaranty that this produce will function for other dogs with the same problem. Also, this is not a guaranty that this produce could not be detrimental.

    I am very happy to have found this way to prevent ear infections in my dog and I am please to share it with you. However, if you decide to try this produce yourself, It will be at your own risks. I decline all responsibility.

    I have no financial or other interest in this produce or in the companies mentioned here.

    I want to thank my sister in law Frances who corrected the English translation of this text.

    Fanny passed away January 2010 at 14 years old. From 2002 to 2010, no more ears yeast infections with the use of this process! I now have a 5 month old Portuguese water dog: Zoé. If ever she develop this problem, I will certainly try this product.

    Louise NOËL

  • Lynne

    Hello
    Am new to your site but like it very much. I have a 12 year old cockapoo with Cushing’s. She is doing well. I feed her Instinct’s frozen raw rabbit but will try the chicken also. Thanks for all the great info
    Lynne

  • Jonathan

    okay… the store I work at carries Sience Diet, Blue buffalo, Wellness, Nutro, Earthborn, Pro-pac, and Royal Canin. Only one of these brands is “not recomended” by you… and myself for that matter. But it’s also the ONLY one out of that group of foods that says “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that Hill’s Science Diet provides complete and balanced nutrition” on that bag. So what foods that are 4 or 5 star brands… even 3 star… are there that aren’t “just” formulas? And what does that really mean anyways? Science Diet is garbage. One look at the ingredients tells you that. but they have a multi-million dollar facility where they have dogs eating their food from birth to death and “prove” that their food is “great”. What gives? Is it all a gimmicky facade? They also feed other dogs, from birth to death, their competition’s foods. I wonder if they would admit if these dogs do better than theirs…

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Cindy… Kirkland’s adult formulas should be fine for your large breeds. They’re made for Kirkland by Diamond Pet (they also make others like Taste of the Wild, etc.). However, if you’re concerned, there are a number of 4 and 5-star dedicated large breed products on our website.

    By the way, our dog Bailey is a finicky eater, too. He never seems to like a kibble by itself. So, we top each meal of with a nice quality canned food and mix them thoroughly. He gobbles it up. Give it a try with your two Mastiffs. Hope this helps.

  • Cindy

    Hi Mike,
    I use to use the Kirkland dog food and my dogs seemed to love it.. I now have two beautiful English Mastiffs and I am so confused on good brands.. They are a year old last month and I have done Eagle pack for large breeds and Chicken soup (they hate) and Kahoots chicken meal and rice and really the dont seem to like any of those any more unless I fix it up with broths or burger.. I am wondering for the large breeds if the Kirkland has enough of what they need in it.. And where is it made?
    Thnx for your time :-)

  • Carla

    Mike,

    I just wanted to say “Thanks”!! Your website is full of information and was a huge influence on the type of dog food I now buy!

    Thanks again so much!!

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Carla… My best advice: Don’t worry about finding the “perfect” dog food… because it doesn’t exist. Simply avoid the one and two-star products. You’ll already be a good way toward making a quality selection. By the way, although we don’t track prices, I can assure you there are a number of 3, 4 and 5-star dog foods that should fit your budget.

  • Carla

    Hi there! I am completely overwhelmed trying to decide which food is the best for my 8mo old lab mix and my 3 yr old puggle. I believe both have allergies and shed pretty bad. I currently feed them Beneful which I know is not good at all! I would love to put them both on the same food but not sure that is the best option. I would love to find something that is very affordable as well as good for them. Any suggestions would be wonderful!!

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Diane… Blue Buffalo Wilderness appears to be an excellent grain-free product. Small dogs need small kibble. Have never seen the size of the Wilderness kibble. Be sure to introduce any new food very gradually to prevent tummy problems. Good luck.

  • diane yule

    Yes. it does. I was reading that “Dangerous Canine Diseases Linked to Grains in Dog Foods“.
    Very interesting reading. i am glad you wrote an article about it. I think i might help out a lot. i have been thinking of going grainless. Do you think blue buffalo willderness duck is ok for small dogs? my dogs are from 5 pds to 12 pds. they are all over two years of age. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this website. i think it will help people alot in making better choices for the dogs.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Diane… It’s not likely that QUALITY grains cause yeast infections. But some believe low-quality cereal grains can harbor certain types of contamination that can cause a condition known as atopic dermatitis. For more information, please read my article, “Dangerous Canine Diseases Linked to Grains in Dog Foods“.

    If you agree with the general premise of that article, you may want to consider using a 4 or 5-star dog food (they usually contain better quality grains). Or better yet, try a grain-free dog food. Hope this helps.

  • diane yule

    Hi, I have a toy fox terrier that gets yeast infections in her ears all the time. I have been dealing with this for almost 3 years. she also gets the red tear stains, and her coat is patchey. I think it might be hives, but not sure. she has been to the vet many times, and i always get different answers. I have read so much on the internet that i am confused. i have done home cooking, and that is not working either. I have read that grains cause yeast problems in dogs. what is your opinon on that? Is there any dog food that would help with yeast? thank you.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Daisy… You are surely to be commended for taking such good care of your dog. As you can tell by our ratings, I’m not a big fan of most Purina products. There are almost certainly better quality foods out there (and at lower prices) than the one prescribed by your vet.

    However, since I’m not a veterinarian, I’m unable to recommend a particular product for your pet’s specific health condition. I wish I could be more help.

  • http://dogfoodadvisor.com Daisy Newcomb

    My dog is insulin dependent and takes thyroid pills. I get
    Purina DCO from the vet but it has some ingredients that are questionable. It’s also $23.00 for 8 lbs. i was wondering if there is a better dog food for her. The ingredient Menadione is one I was worried about. Not sure about the others. I mix this with white boiled chicken. I feed her every 12 hours and she gets 100MCG Levothyroxin each time. I give her 9 units insulin AM and 8 units PM of Novolin N. I don’t see any Purina brands on the 5 star food list so I was wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks. Daisy Newcomb

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Carol… Since I’m not a veterinarian, I have not been professionally trained in the treatment of kidney disease.

    However, it’s important to be aware of the controversy regarding the use of low protein diets in treating these disorders. Recent research appears to negate some of those older concepts.

    You may find the white paper published by Champion Petfoods helpful in solving the problem you describe. After all, that sweet dog does need to eat. Hope this helps.

  • http://www.animalmedia.org Carol Scafuro

    Hello,
    I have recently suubscribed to your Dog Food Advisory and find it extremely valuable. I am trying to help a friend find a better alternative dog food for her 13 year old yellow lab with renal problems. The vet has recommended Hill’s Prescription R/N and her dog turns her nose up…the food has a terrible odor. This older gal certainly deserves to be looking forward to her meals at this stage of her life…I understand you are too busy to make recommendations but perhaps you could steer us in the right direction? Thank you fo rthe service you provide.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Laura… Thanks to your suggestion I’ve added Barf World raw dog food to my list of upcoming reviews. However, it could be a little while before I get to that product line. But do look for a report in the not too distant future.

  • Laura

    Hi!
    I know you have an ever growing “to do” list but I would like to know how you would rate Barf World’s raw food line. I have been happy with it so far (except the price). This is the first raw food I have changed to from an organic “kibble”. My 3 year old English Bulldog is doing better on allergies and being slightly overweight but I would like more progress on his weight and digestion. He throws up a good bit, intermittently though. More of an “emotional puker” if you can get that! For a few days no throwing up then for two or three days he throws up four or five times. It’s not always food though. Sometimes it’s just liquid… “Oh, Daddy is playing with another dog.” , or “Someone told me no!” and PUKE!!
    Hahaha anyways, with the throwing up I need a balance between the best I can get in him and inexpensive in case he throws it all up.

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Hi Garrett… look through our 4 and 5-star dog foods. Or click on our “Tag Cloud” found near the top of each page. Then click on the tag labeled “Active”. This will give you a list of brands (product lines)… each containing at least one dog food designed for active or working dogs. In the future (as we complete our “first pass” of all the dog foods we intend to publish a number of “best of” lists for such things as “active or working dogs”… probably later on this calendar year. Hope this helps.

  • Garrett

    So I have a very active and hard working Lab/German Shorthair mix and am looking for the best food for him… any ideas? Guidance?

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    HI Chris… thanks to your suggestion I’ve added Vet’s Choice to my “To Do” list for a future review.

  • Christine Giantsos

    Can you please evaluate the following food for me? “Holistic Health Extension” by Vets Choice. My dog absolutely loves it. He now looks forward to his dinner. whereas previously could take it or leave it. Believe me I have tried several of the 4 star and 5 star products you have on your list but he doesn’t like them. If it is pertinent he is a 9 year old Jack Russell in very good health. Thank you Chris

  • http://DogFoodAdvisor.com Mike Sagman

    Heidi… the Nutritional Adequacy Statement only suggests the product meets minimum industry standards for nutrient content (vitamins, minerals, etc). It does not guarantee ingredient quality. To see what I mean, be sure to read some of my earlier posts about the danger of cheap grains and the toxicity of artificial preservatives.

  • Heidi Junger

    If nutritionally balanced pet foods were as great as we expect them to be, why are pets fed these diets sicker than ever before? Something doesn’t match our expectations.

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